suchan

It looks like your shoppers are waiting to see how much you'll drop the price. If you don't get any offers by the end of the listing, you might consider waiting a bit, and then offering it for auction with a reserve. At least you'll get some feedback about what the market thinks the car's worth. In the meantime, seriously consider how badly you need to sell it, and the least amount you'll accept for the car. Good luck!

Nice. Try to find a restored Ford or Chevy at that price.

8-cylinder truck, and at a fair price! Very cool, and a well-done modification. I hope whomever buys this shares pics after it's restored.

If you want to sell it, name an asking price. To my eyes, your ad would seem to suggest you want a bunch of money for the car, which is certainly desireable, but potential buyers don't particularly like to make an offer on a car only to find they've deeply offended the owner by offering a fraction of what the owner thinks it's worth.

One too many zeroes.

http://bringatrailer.com/2016/12/05/great-in-gray-coil-sprung-1957-cadillac-eldorado-brougham/

Sweet runner at a great price.

Pretty car. Tall foks might be interested if those bucket seats created any more legroom for the driver.

Looks great for a barn find. I like that little fan on the steering column. Bobs Automobilia and Dave Tacheny are the two you should keep on speed dial, although CARS does seem to have certain parts hard to find elsewhere. Definitely join the 36-38 club, and check the link to scans of the old Torque Tube magazines. Priceless. If you haven't already, give the cooling system a good flushing. Those straight 8's like to collect gunk in the back. Clean the gas tank/fuel lines, maybe drop and clean out the pan, or at least run a couple of changes of oil through it, etc. Congrats!

Sorry to hear of your experience, but it does help those of us offering advice. You're looking for a runner, body condition relatively unimportant. That's good news for your budget, as bodywork can often be exponentially more expensive than mechanical issues, and should be a factor in asking prices, although some dealers and barn-finders don't seem to have gotten that memo....... Maybe the best money you can spend when you find a car that looks pretty good is to hire a professional appraiser. For the $300-400 they charge, you'll have a good idea of what you're getting, and bargaining leverage with the seller. I bought a '38 Buick years ago, and armed with an appraisal, was able to negotiate the selling price down by almost a third.

Do you have any preference as to the model, 50, 60, 80, or 90? "Unrestored" can mean lots of things. Would you prefer the car be in running condition? How about the body? Are you willing to tackle rotted body wood and rust-through? Any 1932 Buick is rare, and coupes even more so. The more specific you can be about what you want and are willing to pay, the more useful responses you'll get. The more places you advertise, the better, but I think the best strategy would be to join BCA attend events, and meet club members. Many cars change hands without an ad ever being placed. Good hunting!

I think what is being asked for is the maximum total weight of the vehicle, fluids, passengers, cargo. I've never seen it for a '38 Buick. Maybe 4200 lbs? Certainly no more than 4500 lbs. Maybe a reasonable estimate would satisfy the Zurich DMV?

$130K for a rat rod, albeit an interesting one?

Looks like a nice car with reasonable miles at not-too-bad a price. http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/03/few-good-ones-left-72k-mile-1976-buick-century-wagon/

Original fender skirts? Please tell me Buick didn't make those hideous things.

Gorgeous car. Too bad you've chosen not to get the mechanicals sorted. I'm sure you could more than recover the cost and get a quick sale.

I've always considered pre-war Buicks to be rather regal. And, it has a royal blue valve cover....

It's possible the rear bumper once had a middle bumper guard. They folded down to allow the trunk lid to be opened. You might be able to find a description through the 36-38 Buick club. Not sure if the F/R bumpers are the same. Please share some more photos of your new baby!

By posting an overheated ad on a (nice) unfinished car, and refusing to state a price, you're opening yourself to more abuse than interest. If you expect $100K, $50K, $25K, you should indicate that.

More likely a posting cancelled due to sale. If the car was as good as it looked, it wasn't going to last long.

Could be a Century. The hood does look long, and it has the chrome doo-dads below the headlights I don't think you see on a Special. Definitely worth a closer look.

What a great old car, at a great price! Folks grumble about the hobby being taken over by speculators, then a bunch of cars like this pop up, cars that can be enjoyed for a minimum investment by a new hobbyist or someone assembling a collection on a budget. Keep'em coming!

Drive train is bulletproof, but check for overheating. Some engines will overheat at freeway speeds, but are OK around town, and of course, parade speeds can be tough, too. Rust in rear of the trunk. Leaking torque tube. I'm sure other posters can add to the list. '36 Specials aren't sports cars, but move pretty good for a mid-30's assembly-line product. A higher rear-end ratio will make freeway driving less exciting, but take away some low-end grunt. It's possible to add an overdrive unit, too, which offers the best of both worlds. Check recent threads on this topic. Some people (me included) like electronic ignition and radial tires, although you'll find detractors of both modifications. The motor's strong, so if your budget is, too, you can increase compression, get one of the 40-41 dual carb setups, etc. Optimize the electrics and brakes; both are more than satisfactory if in good condition. Please post pics when you buy the car!

Beautiful car! The 1929 Murray-bodied 4-door sedans are my favorite Model A. Now if I was 6 inches shorter and 75 lbs lighter.... Good luck with the sale.

I need a round nylon press-in nut to hold the passenger sun visor vanity mirror on my '71 Eldorado (see photo).The original mirror was ripped out along with one of the nuts (someone didn't like what they saw?). ID is about 3/16", outer is about 7/16", about 3/8" deep. I haven't had any luck at the local auto parts stores or online stores. I just bought the mirror on an online auction site, seller stated that it fits a variety of GM products late '60's-'70's.