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Thomas J. Bianculli

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  1. I agree. I used to buy the high priced ones until they forgot to take it out of the NAPA box when they shipped it to me. I have been using NAPA ever since, and never use the last one before reordering as I know it will be a special order item.
  2. Note the 320 decal is numbered VC12L, while the 240 is VC12. The 320 is about 7 inches longer than the 248. I will have to order one for my rebuild unless I can find the one I know is floating around. My super didn't have one when I bought it in 1969 and the engine was black. I have heard this was the primer color and cleaning had removed the original paint. I have yet to see a 1940 without the Dynaflash decal in the over 50 years I have owned mine. The oil filter is the wrong color in the picture. The sock under the oil filler cap is to prevent the blow by oil from messing up
  3. Bob's switch will work fine. I have used one for several years. I watch eBay constantly and have been able to pick up a couple of spares cheap as well.
  4. If you decide to do inserts, Terrill Machine in Texas (254-893-2610) does the rods on an exchange basis for $48.00 each. They are also cheapest on most other internal parts. I sent the rods for my 1940 Super off to them yesterday. I used a USPS Medium Flat Rate Box that cost $15.05. My engine was running fine with good oil pressure but had piston damage and had to be torn down due to excessive oil burning and blow by. The bearings were not loose but the Babbitt had begun to separate on 3 or 4 of the rods. One probably would have failed had I driven the car to the shop rath
  5. Apparently Limiteds have a longer front spindle thus requiring deeper caps. I have never seen these offered or advertised.
  6. The picture in this post with the shorter Buick logo is 1937 only. They will fit 1937-1940.
  7. Buick used both Stromberg and Carter in 1940. I am running a Stromberg that I found in the back seat when I bought my car in 1969. When I bought it the carb was a Carter with inoperable accelerator pump. I was unaware of any parts sources at that time and had not even seen Hemmings, so I went to a local parts store and bought some gasket paper and attempted to "rebuild" it myself. I worked well for probably ten years and by that time I had moved back to PA from Maryland and built up a network and knowledge and a friend rebuilt it for me. I do not believe it was original t
  8. Nice job. Apparently your wheel must have stopped shrinking. I did a similar repair on my wheel years ago. It looked good for a while, then the original sections continued to shrink and everything started to come off. I gave up and put up with an aftermarket cover for years, flakes of paint continued to work out and turn up all over the interior. Finally in 2012 I pulled the wheel when I put the car in for the winter and sent the wheel to Koch's in California. They asked me to send them the center plastic for color match. I see in my records I sent them a check for $429.00 on J
  9. Many thanks, I have just ordered one, price was about 1/4 of the one on eBay. I took me about 5 minutes to figure out BHA was Buick Heritage Alliance. I was aware of them but unaware they had made so much progress and sold reproduction literature. Most of the other books I have were purchased from Faxon.
  10. I just located one on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-1940-Buick-Dealer-Facts-Book-ORIGINAL-over-110-pages-FEATURES-MODELS/163610922408?hash=item2617f88da8:g:cwgAAOSwrqhclUVt From the pages shown, I am sure it is interesting, but at $199.00 Buy it Now I will go into the haven't purchased category.
  11. I agree the black one should look better. In my past experience, many aluminum or silver paints don't look that good as they age. Again, unless my grandson decides to drop a big pile of money on the car some time in the future it will never get past DPC so I really don't have to worry about losing points. Before my current engine problem I was only 200 miles away from my 2,000 mile award. Wait until next year. Since my car is about 23000 before the changeover point and I actually have documentation in the service bulletins I will continue to have an interesting discussion topic,
  12. I am not aware of this book which makes me a bit dumb as I have been fooling around with this car just over 50 years. I do search eBay fairly frequently and may come up with one sooner or later. I did pick up the 1940 Service Bulletins this way . The index shows 2 articles, page 45 discusses the leakage problem and recommends replacement, giving the part numbers for both units. Page 139 Goes into more detail on the problem, states the colors of both units and states the serial numbers when the change occurred on all series. The new unit cost the dealer $3.60 and the customer $6.00. $2.40
  13. I expect to bring the filter home and paint it as soon as I drive the car to the shop to pull the engine. Tentatively I have a ride home lined up for a week from tomorrow, Sept 20. As soon as I get it home I will start on it. When done I will photograph it. Apparently most of the modern manufacturers use 001 in their part number. Several years ago I bought one of the high priced ones and the seller forgot to take it out of the NAPA box. I think their number was 16001. The last time I needed filters I got WIX51001.
  14. Thanks, I found "The Great Oil Filter Debate" in a Chevy Message Board: https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil filters/index.html Apparently early L-1 units had a seam as well.
  15. By the serial number, mine would have been black. K. Green has posted he has two engines, one early and late that do not appear to have been disturbed and both have black filters of the revised type. Others have raised the hypothesis that cars delivered east of the Mississippi did not have factory filters unless so ordered and any filter would have been dealer installed. At least in my lifetime my car will never surpass DPC quality so I will paint the filter black. Again I am grateful that so many have responded to my query.
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