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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. Ford 1958 to about 1963. T-Bird '58-60 - 352 (not 430) Mercury '61-63. Bird after '61 has the air intake pointing full front, not to the side. Thinking more toward big motor (FE - 332, 352, 390) but since the Y-blocks used the same carbs the air cleaners also interchange. The blue color is making me think 1963 Ford. There were a few subtle changes over the years (flat paper gasket at the carb or rubber vs. square cut o-ring on the air cleaner base). but again there are also many interchanges. The four big drilled holes are not factory.
  2. "Car" . . . Because we don't know the exact type, cant forget to mention the possibility of having a hydraulic failure on the clutch release mechanism. . . . ?
  3. Follow up for future diagnostics. Clutch adjustment is important. The distance between the throwout bearing and the fingers or release mechanism is important. Too close and the bearing is operating all the time and wears out prematurely Too close and it is as if you have your foot half way down on the clutch and it slips under load. Too far and you cant push the pedal down far enough to release the mechanism and the gears grind and clash. Some people adjust their clutch to a personal preference based on how far from the floor it engages. This is not how a clutch should be adjusted, so it is nothing I typically evaluate. Service literature describes feeling for “freeplay” in the pedal. How far can you push the pedal before the throwout bearing begins to touch the fingers on the pressure plate? (or other release mechanism) On every 50s & 60s car I ever had this distance is easy to feel. The pedal swings freely and easily until you feel the bearing ‘hit’ the pressure plate. The books show a ruler placed against the floor/firewall and measuring a freeplay of about 1.5 to two inches. I am learning that 20s cars are different. The pedal pivots have enough springs and slack adjustors that the tolerances are tight enough that the actual freeplay is not easy to discern. In experimenting with my 1929 I looked down and noted that the clutch was engaging maybe ¼ inch off the floor. This meant that it was ‘too loose’ and barely releasing when slammed to the floor. Thus it was the likely source of all the symptoms. Today I pulled up the floor boards and tightened the adjustment. It now engages 2.5 to 2 inches from the floor. I am not sure that the bearing is fully releasing with the pedal up, I can hope that it is. I wont be able to test it for a week or more (because I also need to fix the brake light switch) but hopefully this will fix my clutch sticking problem, without pulling the transmission.
  4. Yup, I got it filled with the heavy 160(?) lube. I dont remember the exact brand or numbers but pumping it in was a PIA! Yup I have other non-syncro first cars, so using 2-3 to make an easier shift into first is a regular habit. But when it sticks it is as if the clutch is not depressed at all. When assembling it, I slid the trans onto/into the bellhousing on the floor and then installed hoisted the motor & trans as a unit. It went together easily. I guess I am looking at having to take things apart A-G-A-I-N . . . . Oh, for the love of old cars. The 'clutch' is a unit that combines the plates and springs. There is no service information about disassembling it. (shop manual says it is serviced as a unit by the factory) When out, I guess I will have to learn how to pull it apart myself to find the problem.
  5. The car: 1929 Cadillac 341B town sedan. I spent the last 4 years rebuilding everything I could on it. I am now spending even more time working to sort things out. I had the clutch rebuilt/relined at a shop that does trucks and industrial components. (multiple disc, sealed unit) They did not flinch at the job, they are used to working with non standard assemblies. (they relined my brake shoes without any problems) Anyway, now SOMETIMES (but not always) the clutch simply does not release. Arrrrg!!!! Push it down and it acts as if you had not. (gears clash etc) Occasionally I have had to shut off the engine, put the trans into gear, push the pedal and restart the engine so that it can be moved/driven. (When this happens the clutch does not smoke or smell or try to drive the car like it is completely stuck). This could go on for a few more pedal pushes OR the next time you step on the clutch it is fine and releases normally. (so the adjustment must be OK) It could work fine for a while then stick suddenly shifting between 2 & 3 and then it may or may not work at the next stop sign. I thought that maybe there was some glue or varnish from the rebuild that was acting sticky, so I have slipped it a few times (going up hill) to try to clean it off. . . . no change. With a torque tube and the motor mounts on the enclosed bell housing, I do not want to remove it without a good reason or having something specific to look for when I do. Any thoughts or experience with one of these? Thanks
  6. I am in the same boat. I have a 59 Lincoln that sat for 25+ years as a stalled project. Now up and running the trans initially worked fine. Then it shuttered and banged going into drive. I drained all the fluid, sealed the leaks and added some Lucas trans conditioner. It now goes into reverse quickly and easily, but wont hit drive until it warms up. (about 15 minutes) After that it shifts great. SOMETHING is not right inside. Varnish? crud? who knows. Yeah I MIGHT have to pull it and rebuild it, but until then . . . ? Hey the additive only cost $8, what do I have to lose? I am driving it, hoping something breaks loose and it functions while cold. My vote - give it a try. The worst that can happen is that you are going to have to rebuild it anyway.
  7. Moral of the story. It is always easier AND CHEAPER to FIX it than to change it. Lots of newcomers to old cars are very quick to condemn old car designs and want to "upgrade" rather than repair. The best place to start with any old car project is catching up on all the deferred maintenance first. Only after the car is functioning as designed, should 'upgrades' be considered. Enjoy your car and welcome to the hobby.
  8. The number one failure for anything electrical is bad and dirty connections. If the electricity cant flow easily things aint gonna work. How many times have we had problems from bad grounds? Recently had a 1960 Edsel. The front turn signals worked fine but it had no parking lights. After checking the bulbs, fuses and headlight switch it turned out the be a dirty connection where the under hood harness plugged into the firewall. Separated it, cleaned it (small wire brush) and it now works fine. My suggestion is to remove the passenger door panel, then separate and clean each connection. While the panel is off you can run a jumper wire to the motor and verify that is is functioning.
  9. The 1942 model year is the most interesting to study. Production started around August/September 1941 and ended late January-February 1942. (not everyone shut down by the same deadline day as was originally intended) Documenting what happened between Pearl Harbor and the shut down is a very moving target. The government was trying to convert to full war production but no one really knew exactly what that meant or how that was going to be done. New rules, directives and other changes were being made at least weekly and sometimes daily. Today we know that ALL vehicle production was ended but that was not known before the final shut down. Between the start of 1942 production and the end each manufacturer kept seeing their allowed production totals lowered. (based on percentage of their 1941 production) After Pearl Harbor the numbers shrank to the point of basically zero so the government just ended it all. But for the longest time the thinking remained that each manufacturer would continue to produce cars 'for the duration'. The public needed cars. The companies needed to remain in business. It was believed that to stop all production would lead to bankruptcy and job loss. (memories of the depression were not unrealistic) But the government knew that even with restricted production each company needed to remain competitive in the marketplace. Chrome (and stainless steel) was an essential material so they early on restricted the use of chrome trim. The government knew that any company that could offer cars with chrome trim would have a strong sales advantage. Companies like GM had purchased all their chrome trim very early and had stocks that could likely last well into 1943, while the smaller companies were cash flowing their production and would run out of chromed trim almost immediately. The solution was to require that NO CHROME be 'displayed'. If it was an existing trim part had been chromed, it had to be painted over. If you had not chromed your diecast yet, then of course it needed to be painted. Bumpers were exempted from the chrome ban because of their need for durability. Because of the thought that production might continue the companies actually had created 'black out' color combinations as official offerings. When found, this information is generally listed in service bulletins, sales letters, etc. Documentation that is readily lost to history. The combinations always used the effect of strong contrast - dark body? light trim. Light body? dark trim. The body colors all seemed to have been continued from their original 1942 palette with the colors of gray & silver commonly used for the trim (I have never heard of white being used). Light colored cars generally carried the darker version of the body color. (light green body, dark green trim) To add visual interest and style, pin striping was also liberally applied to the painted trim . There is a Cars and Parts magazine from the late 70s early 80s that has the story of an original blackout 42 Buick. The article quotes from the factory letter and lists all the available blackout combinations. I dont have the issue information with me but it would be worth your time to search it out. Because things changed so fast and nobody was documenting these changes, this model year remains ripe for new discoveries. Decades ago I found a 1942 Buick Special sedan (black out version) in a wrecking yard. Originally dark green? olive drab? couldn't tell, but most interesting was that the 'stainless' trim that was embedded in the rubber around the glass was mild steel(!) It has the smooth surface rust one would expect on a fender. This meant that they had run out of (pre-stamped) stainless parts (that could be painted) and were putting basic steel into the forming machine for production. Another interesting bit of information I discovered by studying the weekly editions of Automotive News is that in late December 41 January 42, there was talk of allowing ONE "Victory Car" to be produced. One manufacture might be allowed to continue production of one simple version of an automobile to supply civilian needs. I have always wondered who that might have been? Or who it should have been? Ford or Chevrolet? these were big plants that the government needed Some small independent? Husdon? Nash? even Willys? How might have continued production of one of these makes have affected their postwar experience? Of course it could have even been a Ford or Chevrolet produced under license in the Studebaker or Packard plant? 1942 a fascinating model year. Good luck with your display.
  10. This is a picture taken of the damage from an earthquake in Inglewood, California, that occurred on June 21, 1920. Of interest to this august group might be the roadster in the lower right corner. Missing fenders and turtledeck, I perceive it as a hopped up car. Seems pretty early for 1920. There was a city scene discussed here recently and there was interest in the rarity of early hot rods that were captured in random images. I submit this for your enjoyment.
  11. m-mman

    Heater control

    It hasn't been mentioned yet but the fact that it uses vacuum controls means that it is no older than about the mid-'60s...
  12. FYI - The Cadillac-La Salle club authenticity manual for 25-29 Cads answers the question of spring covers with a question mark "?" I guess they have not settled the matter. . . ? The GM parts book lists 'fabric covers' for 1929 (is fabric also leather?). It lists metal covers for 1931 and up. (It is not clear for the 1930 V-8, the 12 and 16 do list covers) I would not think that they were optional. The Eaton spring video referenced above describes that leaf springs prior to 1950 were engineered (type of steel) to be lubricated and after 1950 the steel is harmed by lubrication.
  13. For what it is worth, 1967-8 Thunderbird seats...
  14. The return spring on the linkage SHOULD be holding the pedal in the full up (off) position. Fix this first! Nothing else in the system holds the pedal up and away from the master cylinder. It is a meaty spring. To check the push rod adjustment on the compensating port: Remove the cap on the master cylinder. look into the reservoir AS YOU PUSH THE PEDAL. There should be a small squirt that appears within the fluid, that is in the reservoir, each time you push the pedal. (if you push real hard or slam it, you can even get it to splash out of the reservoir) If there is no squirt/splash seen - SHORTEN the push rod slightly, and try again. The squirt should consistently happen within the first inch or so of pedal travel. The rod adjusts how much pedal travel is needed to move the piston into the MC bore. There are TWO holes in the MC (you can see both from the top) The big hole is the intake hole it allows fluid to move into the piston chamber. The smaller hole (which should have been verified as not being plugged during the rebuild) allows fluid to move back into the reservoir and RELEASE the pressure as the pedal returns. In the reverse action NO PRESSURE is created in the brake lines UNTIL the piston moves forward and covers this small hole. Then the pedal action can pressurize the system. The rod IS NOT to be used to adjust pedal height! The rod does NOT compensate for improper adjustment at the shoes/drums.
  15. I have a 29 Cad town sedan. I have only had it for 3 years and my focus has been on the engine and just making it run. There is so much left to learn (I have only driven it around the block once) but I will share what I know about the shock absorber links. The shock links are a socket that fits over the ball on the axle housing. There is a cup shaped rubber pad that fits into the socket and SOMEHOW holds the socket onto the ball(?) I popped one off accidentally and cant get it reattached(!) To remove the link properly you should unbolt the ball from the axle. ? Classic and Exotic Services reproduces the rubber socket part https://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-3775-cadillac-shock-link-rubber-inserts-v8-v12-v16.aspx I have yet to buy or install them on my car (my rubber has turned rock hard) but somehow I think that is what is needed to make the attachment. Also it should be noted that the rear suspension on the 29 Cad is underslung so if you pull out a leaf you will not be able to raise it up with a block/shim at the axle. Because I had the engine out on my car I just went ahead and pulled the steering box. (I dont think it CAN come out with the engine in place). Glad I did this because upon disassembly I discovered that the lube had become so dry it was as if the box was packed in coal. (actual rocks) So never underestimate how dry old hydrocarbons can become.
  16. Thank you. Not enough information about the ability for a vacuum tank to draw through an electric pump and/or in line filter. I have that set up on my 29 Cad but have yet to really drive it to know that I wont have problems.
  17. Air in fluid causes it to become frothy and increase in volume. In a P/S system this will only happen when it is being pumped - circulated. After shutting down the engine the bubbles/froth will dissipate just like the foam dissipates on the top of a beer or soda. Frothing is not normal it means there is a leak somewhere letting air into the system. (and generally fluid out too, which is how you find the leak) Low fluid level sucks a lot of air into the system and foams significantly To answer your question. In a P/S system fluid is always being circulated. It is sucked from the reservoir into the pump and sent into the system. There are valves and what-not that IF NECESSARY allow the fluid stream to develop pressure and force/assist the wheels to turn and lower the steering effort. If there is no attempt to steer the car (sitting still) the fluid will FLOW ONLY (from the pump, through the system and back to the reservoir) but will not develop pressure. Testing: Car off - Remove dipstick (or cap over reservoir) to check that reservoir is full. (1/4 to 1/2 inch from top) There should be no foam it should be nice ATF color & consistency. Start car DO NOT TURN THE WHEEL and look at the fluid as it circulates. A Ford reservoir sucks the fluid out of the center of the 'can' into the pump and returns it to the SIDE of the reservoir can directing the stream to essentially create a circular flow. In a normal system, at idle, with the top off the reservoir, the flow will be easily seen and will not splash out. (kinda neat to watch) If it is splashing, spraying or beginning to froth, you have a problem. Is there something (control valve?) that is creating pressure when there should be only flow? Is something restricting the flow creating pressure where there should be none? (situation noted above had incorrect filter) Is the reservoir missing a metal shield that directs the flow from the return hose into the circular pattern? Ford used the same pump for many years and there are variations on the reservoir, filters and covers that can inadvertently be switched and cause issues.
  18. Yeah the station at the Gilmore. I have yet to visit but I have seen it pictured many times. Real nice for a background but I kinda see non-functional visible pumps (especially at a museum) like displaying a Curved dash Olds or a '03 Model A without its engine or drive system. It sits there. But I want to understand how did it work?
  19. Owning your own original underground tanks(!) Wow, that would never happen in California. Interesting that the BC station seems to have nozzles with automatic shut offs. . . ? As I understood a visible pump operation you 'agreed to buy' what was moved into the jar and ran it out into your car. To 'fill it up' you needed to know approximately how much you needed to pump in before you started. How did this station calculate their charges? Pump 8 gallons up into the jar and if you only put 5 gallons into your car, they would subtract what you didnt use? Would they have run the 'excess' back into the underground tank, or left it for the next customer?
  20. Everybody has seen ancient visible gas pumps. Many have been 'restored' through repainting and aesthetic improvements. Some have been converted into aquariums, drink refrigerators or other non-automotive appliances. Recently I was attempting to explain to somebody HOW a visible gas pump worked and why it was designed to be visible. It was hard for them to understand and brought to my mind a question. Does a WORKING visible gas pump exist anywhere? I am talking about one (museum maybe?) where you can actually move the handle, fill the jar, and then open the hose to dispense the fuel. The liquid doesnt have to be real gas, it can flow into a simulated 'car' and be recycled. I am interested in experiencing filling and draining the visible part and understanding how much force it takes to pump the liquid into the jar and how quickly it empties. I think that there are very few people around anymore who can say that they actually experienced a working visible pump. Although they never existed in my world, I would like to share that antique car experience before I die. Experiencing other types of WORKING antique gas pumps would be great too. But where are they?
  21. The 53 Ford is the Customline model. Differentiated from the cheaper Mainline by the long molding on the 1/4 panel blister. \ If the standing woman would step to the side, we could see what type of transmission it had. ?
  22. Death Valley - one of the driest places in the world. As a side note if it is within the boundaries of Death Valley National Park it will have to stay exactly where it is. All items within a national park are protected and may not be removed or molested. Scotty's castle has on display an original 1917(?) Packard touring that was originally used at the ranch and a 'pile' of junkers out back in a dump area. As I remember the newest was a 1950-53 Cadillac CDV. Way back when it was too expensive to remove them, so they were left where they fell. Today they are protected historical artifacts.
  23. These distributors mounted to the end of the camshaft are quite unique are not easily modified or updated. Adapting a different design is basically impossible. Their failings and weak points are well understood and there are people who can put them right including rebuilding parts that were designed to be disposable. Search (and join) Lincoln Zephyr Owners club.
  24. I have a 1929 Cad. The fuel gauge on it is a two wire system. Power comes to the dash unit then two wires go back to the tank. There is zero resistance when the gauge needle and float is at 1/2 tank. As the float goes up and down there is increased resistance for THAT SIDE of the gauge. If the wires are swapped full reads empty and empty reads full. I did find shops that rebuilt the sending unit and the gauge - non cheap - $300 for the sender and $500 for the gauge (it has two coils to be rewound). Both done well and now it does work.
  25. Introduced for 1956, dropped for 1957, returned (temporarily) for 1958, then gone forever... Not the best-sounding model name. Difficult to spell, has hard "T" ending, doesn't bring to mind beautiful places or images.