m-mman

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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. The family continued to dig through the estate and 'surprise' they found Grandpa's original pink slip (title). πŸ™‚ So a rust free, iconic 1950s car, in a neat 1950s color, that now has a title. Is anybody interested in giving car this a home? πŸ™
  2. Not exactly Rivera but close. In 1964 Ford stopped issuing a parts department 'kit' to add air conditioning to a new Thunderbird (a similar car) that was not factory equipped. This is because the time estimated to add A/C by a dealership mechanic to a new 1963 Thunderbird was 30 hours(!) The service/sales bulletin suggested that if you want an air conditioned Thunderbird it must be ordered that way from the factory. Adding factory A/C is no small feat and recommended only for an experienced restorer. Rivera people, is there any original literature suggesting if A/C could be added? or how long it would take?
  3. Exactly Bloo, I think you understand. If my mother was needing a car and she saw an ad for a car that "didn't run" or "needed an engine" she would skip over it because she would have no idea how to even begin to deal with all the many problems and hurdles of making it operational. If there is any car collector who shys away from a nice car because they dont know how to make it run (in their part of the country) or perhaps because some bureaucrat in a government office has told them that that it is impossible to get the parts needed to make it run, then they should stick to the TV shows, they really arent a serious collector. If you are a REAL car guy (or gal) you need certain basic skills and understanding to enjoy the hobby. (especially at the AACA level, maybe not the Pebble Beach level) Basic mechanical understanding, knowledge that AutoZone, O'Reillieys and Pep Boys isnt always going to have the parts you need AND you also need to know how to work the system (in your part of the world) to deal with lost paperwork. Does anyone expect that a 50, 60, 70 year old car pulled from a long barn storage is going to start up and run? I dont. And I have never expected that a long parked car is going to have 'ready to transfer' paperwork either. Making the engine operational or making the title operational . . . just additional work along the path of a restoration. You would be surprised how many cars are turned away from auctions because the seller shows up and there is a 'title problem'. Missing numbers, no numbers on the car or (the worst) numbers that dont match the paperwork(!) You never see these cars because the auction companies tell the seller to just take it away because they dont want to hassle it. In actuality the non-matching/changed numbers cars SHOULD be impounded by the police. Sadly, most all of these problems are the result of the seller/restorer simply not correctly fixing the title. They did the mechanics, the paint and the interior, but they didn't fix the paperwork correctly. Yes we all started out not understanding how to fix a car or knowing where to get the parts to fix an ancient car, but we all learned how and are now better for it. There are some skills that you just have to have to enjoy the car hobby. If the car you are considering needs skills that you dont have, then I guess you just have to pass on it and keep looking.
  4. No, not unfixable at all. Its very easy. 😎 There is a 1971 California registration card in the glove box in Grandpa's name, so he did have a title. Likely the 'pink slip' was placed in a secure spot so that it would not be lost. But then people either forgot where that was, or didnt recognize what car the pink slip was for. (BTW - having the registration document even allows someone in CA to reactivate the original black license plate) Same with the keys, they were likely put in a box or hung on a hook and when the time came to 'clean up' nobody recognized them and threw them away. Creating a current California title would be very easy but it would cost about $100 in California state fees and the lines at the California DMV have made the headlines as currently being 6-8 HOURS long! If the car was being offered for $15,000 I would put things on order. For $1500 it will be a learning experience for the new hobbyist. πŸ˜‰
  5. The 'Hitler Mercedes' were armored open cars. . . . .
  6. Knowing so little about these cars, but is this a "Madam X"? I understood that all Madam X cars had the thin chrome pillars. . . .
  7. More pictures after we got it home and cleaned it up.
  8. 1958 Edsel Pacer 4 door hardtop - barn find stored 48 years Here is the story. In 1971 β€˜grandpa’ retired and bought a 1958 Edsel as a project to keep him busy. He began by dismantling most of the mechanicals then lost interest (ability?) and left the car literally in a barn. Eventually he died and β€˜dad’ inherited the car. Having no interest and better things to do, dad too left it sit. Finally dad dies and now the β€˜son’ inherits it. His current interest is in settling the estate by selling the property where the car sits on a quick escrow, so it has to be out of the barn and off the property ASAP. I offer to try to find a good home for it so here it is at my house. 1958 Edsel Pacer 4 door hardtop. Last run 1970/71. Sitting in a barn for 48 years! Factory tri tone Sunset coral – Black – White. Power steering & brakes, radio, heater, back up lights, bumper guards. Shows 66,000 miles (likely correct) Straight, California car, no rust but does have enough dings, repaint and surface rust that it is unlikely that the original paint can be brought back. Five original coral wheels and the original jack. Front seat recovered, back seat original. Padded dash very decent. Drivers window cracked, other glass good. The bad news. Grandpa began dismantling it and lost a bunch of (replaceable) mechanical parts. All nuisance items, nothing that is unobtainable. No carburetor, generator, water pump, power steering pump, starter, torque converter. Treadle-Vac booster has been disassembled. Transmission removed from car, (but I do have it) motor hanging on its mounts. There is a box of loose stuff like nuts, bolts & linkages. As typical in these situations there are no keys it but it does have the original 1971 California title and registration so a California owner can reactivate the original black plates. Yeah, it is a project, but it is mostly all the mechanical stuff, not heavy body and interior. A great car for a starter hobbyist. I saved it, but I have NO ROOM for it. Can you give it a good home for $1500? Located in the Los Angeles, California area. NOTE: The transmission has now been put back in place (no converter) this means that then engine is secure, the cross member is now bolted in and the parking brake linkage is connected.
  9. As I remember there was a pulley that worked with the long nose pump to move the belt back in line.. . . What does your pulley look like? Is it flat or pointed?
  10. I asked a good friend who is a Ford historian and this was his reply: Could there be a different part for 1954 Ford vs. 1954 Meteor? The "CFDA" prefix indicates a Canadian part. Generally if a part is uses on both USA and Canadian produced Fords, it could not have the "C" at the start of the prefix. Parts produced for Canadian only models, Meteor, Monarch, Frontenac, etc., have the C added to the front part of the part numer. I looked in a couple of parts books, the numbers of the boxes do not correspond exactly with 1949-1959 Ford parts book published in 1964. For 1954 Ford parking light housing, shows FAF-13206-B for the right side which includes the housing, socket and wiring, while the left is FDA-13207A, but does not have a note for Housing, socket or wiring. I checked the "Ford Parts and Accessories Net Price List for Ford Dealers" dated April 1, 1956, which has parts from 1928 to 1956. It shows FAF-13206-B (right side) $4.75 and for FDA-13207A (left side) is listed at $4.95. Identical, right and left parts but a 20-cent difference in price! I also checked the "Master Cross Reference List between Ford M-E-L Parts and Accessories and Engineering Part Numbers Guide", dated July 1959 and these numbers do not appear. Part FDA-13206A, the number reportedly on the box in question, does not show up in any of my sources, but I do not have FoMoCo of Canada parts books for this era. Also, looking at those housings, the both appear to have substantial amounts of dirt on them which leads me to think these are nice take-offs, but not NOS.
  11. Hummmmm. . . . they seem to have come from the Canadian Windsor parts depot (as expected for a UK country) perhaps there's a USA/Canadian variation(?) I dont have my parts book in front of me but when FoMoCo makes an engineering or design change they generally add/change the final letter in the part number. You have a 13207-A on one box and a 1320?-? on the other. The numbers can be one off by one to denote right & left but do they have the same letter (version A) at the end?
  12. Hummmmmm. . . . never thought of that. That's neat,
  13. Ok, good so it's not only me. Perhaps the manufactures are so used to the 25+ pounds of fuel injection pressure, that they think that 5 psi is somehow insufficient? I am just happy I that figured it out. The truck had multiple, multiple issues and I felt like I was in a Plymouth troubleshooting contest. As soon as I fixed one thing something else would rear up. The hyper-pressure was the final challenge.
  14. The vehicle is a 1970 Chevrolet truck with a small block V-8. Should be the easiest thing to repair. It ran horrible and backfired out the exhaust. Long story short I replaced or repaired ALL the typical stuff and eventually diagnosed it having excess fuel pump pressure. (it instantly pegged 2 different gauges at 10 psi. Who know how high it really is) The pump it came with was 'clean' but had no history. I put on another one from Autozone and surprise(!) it too pegs the gauge at 10 psi. An added regulator brought it down to 5 psi and all the flooding and backfiring symptoms disappeared, it now runs well. (hooray) Whats going on? I never have had a mechanical pump make so much pressure. Are they making mechanical pumps differently these days? I would like to return to the original fuel line and ditch the regulator but I also dont want to start swapping fuel pumps for no real reason. Anybody else experience this?
  15. Excellent. I have heard of these but never seen one up close. The horizontal valves made me think of an Auburn 12. As I remember they had a balance/vibration problem(?) Something about the V-angle they used and that there was a 'push rod' that shoved against the frame/mounts to counter this. Low survival I would assume.
  16. In a wrecking yard in Kansas. V-8 with horizontal valves(?) Downdraft carb Any ideas?
  17. I an not familiar with a 29 Graham but nobody has yet discussed the Slyphon shutter type thermostats. Did Graham use them? Maybe they were only for more expensive cars? If you just add a thermostat to a hose or housing where one never existed, doesn't the system need a bypass path to circulate a little water until it opens?
  18. What people are trying to tell you is that in old cars (like with so many collectibles) DETAILS MATER! Among old cars it is very common that one year is 'priceless' and the next year is 'worthless'. The word "original" has VERY SPECIFIC meanings (especially around here) and can significantly affect both price AND interest. Imagine if somebody posted a picture of a house asking for a valuation but could not correctly state where it was located? or that the description and picture did not match between one story and two story . . . ? But they still want to know what it was worth. . . Same as if somebody asked what some stock was worth without saying the name of the company or how many shares they had. You can get excellent help here BUT exact information is critical. The more information AND PICTURES the more accurate your answer.
  19. What are those wheels? I have never seen an automotive disc with stamped(?) spokes? Are they a specific railroad type wheel? Or automotive discs adapted for rail use?
  20. m-mman

    What is this ?

    In 1952 the bumper guards were an option although commonly installed. Unless they are removed, it generally denotes a bottom line 'Custom" series and not the higher 'Monterey'. FoMoCo was working with using integral bumper/grilles during this era. Mercury and Lincoln were the recipients of the heaviest versions of this design.
  21. 29 Cad - Updraft "Johnson" carb on a flathead V-8 means that the air intake is right in the middle of the engine valley. Later Cads (32-33) used a funnel air intake to draw air from the top of the engine area. I think they have simple screens in them but not sure. The Johnson carb is not typical (I have no good technical information on it maybe Carb King can add something) but it has an air intake AND a by-pass flap that opens when needed for something. . . . (?) There is also a throttle plate below (above?) the linkage controlled plate. I have yet to understand it completely. This design might also have something to do with the inability to 'simply add' a filter. The spinner filter is stock Model L Lincoln design. I'll get a pic tonight. In the mean time you can likely find a Model L picture on the web.
  22. My 1929 Cad has no factory air filter. I was told to not even think about one. The carb is designed to not use one and those who have attempted retrofitting discovered that the increased resistance through the filter is like operating it with the choke on and results in a rich mixture. It was just not made for a filter. My 26 Lincoln has a spinner (propeller) device that centrifugally throws the dirt to the side. Guess there's not much drag in that design.
  23. Yes there was quite a Frank-Chrysler connection back then. The 1981-83 Imperial came as a Frank Sinatra edition and included a collection of Frank cassette tapes.
  24. And the modern metal and plastic probably wont support the weight. . . .