m-mman

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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. Recap: So you DID have a pedal (albeit low) and then you pushed REAL HARD, and the pedal then (slowly?) fell to the floor? (with no leaks seen under the car) If the above conditions are true then the primary cup in the master cylinder is bad (leaking internally) and allowing the MC piston the pass through the fluid and not compress it. Remove and disassemble the master cylinder and you will likely find the cup to be cut or torn. Replace the rubber parts in the master cylinder.
  2. OP do not get confused. The solenoid in the image above is upside down from the orientation it would have when installed.
  3. GM starters have three connections on the top solenoid part. 1. Battery cable connecting to BIG terminal in the middle. There are also other much smaller wires connected here that bring power into the car that need energy. 2. A little connection that is energized ONLY when the solenoid has engaged the flywheel. This wire brings full 12v power to the coil The dash switch sends a resisted (less than 12v) to the points/coil when it is is the run position and no power to the coil when in the crank position. So this powers the spark when cranking. 3. A little connection that receives 12v from the dash switch when it is in the crank position. Apply 12v here and the power goes thru the winding's on the solenoid, magnetizing the 'slug' inside the solenoid which pulls the starter pinion gear into the flywheel. When the solenoid slug has hit the end of travel it makes the connection between the battery cable and the starter motor. NOTE: There is also a 4th connection on the solenoid. It is a thick piece of copper that comes out of the starter motor and bolts to the solenoid. This connection is bolted in place when the starter and solenoid are joined before installation and not touched after installation. Assumption: You are using a jumper wire to send 12v to the little solenoid connection which activates the starter and it runs. This means that the starter assembly works (and it's associated wires) Now get out your test light. Test: When you turn the key inside does it send 12v to this same wire? (likely not because if it did you would not be having a problem) Trouble shooting goal: Why isn't the key sending 12v to the starter? Suggestions of things to check: Is 12v getting inside to the key? Are the plugs on the firewall clean and solid? How about the wires from the firewall behind the dash up to the key? Is the key sending 12v to the terminal on the back of the switch when it is turned to the start/crank position? Key switches can fall apart inside and look OK on the outside. FYI - The power to the starter, from the key, is routed thru the neutral safety switch. Is the neutral switch passing along the 12v from the key to the starter? check both sides of the neutral switch. This should get you started. Good luck.
  4. The government wants to see a tamper proof number that can be used to identify a specific vehicle and used to match with supporting documentation to establish ownership. Originality aside (steel plate? brass plate? riveted? welded?) if you can not get the correct one, you can use a set of stamps and hammer the numbers (numbers that match your title and hopefully correctly describe the car - year, model etc.) into the metal on the frame. Something permanent is really all a good verifier wants to see.
  5. 1959 Fords & Edsels did not use any water valve to control the temperature of the output on the heater. The 'Hot - Cold" lever moved a door that blended air through the heater core. This meant that during the summer hot water was circulating through the core at all times. Any air that bypassed the blend door would put hot air into the passenger compartment. Instructions in the owners and shop manual suggested turning this valve closed during the summer. However few people did, so they routinely stick in the open position. The suggestion above that they need to be opened and closed regularly is accurate. Aside from leaks, you can leave it open all year long. Or replace it with a straight nipple to connect the hose in a leak free manner. Original style valves that can be opened and closed manually still readily exist and can be found at a good parts house.
  6. Hchris - I think the short 'filling time' is related to the fact that the tank(s) are full to start with and all the system has to do is refill what was used in the last few moments. If you pull the lid off of a (downdraft) carb, that has a mechanical pump, while the engine is running, you will see that the floats do not drop to empty before they admit additional fuel. They only have to drop 1/16" (?) and fuel runs in under pump pressure. Unlike with a toilet tank, the carb floats don't drop completely & refill, rather they 'vibrate' to keep the fuel level appropriate. The same thing seems to be happening in the vacuum tank. fuel runs into the carb by gravity (so it is always full) and all the tank needs to do is keep adding another 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel into the reserve (pre carb) tank. I was surprised that it was only drawing 5" of vacuum to refill. (As describe above by Pfitz I guess that is enough?) I previously measured 15" at the manifold. Cadillac uses a piston style vacuum pump (powered by the cam) and there is a check valve in the vacuum lines to ensure that there is always a vacuum at the tank. When running, the vacuum at the line that supplies the tank is a bouncing 10"-12". (the bouncing I believe is the effect of the accessory pump) This did not drop below 10" as I reved up the engine as you would expect to see when the gauge is attached directly to the manifold. I can easily see the advantages to having the additional vacuum pump such that your new Cadillac doesn't stall going up a long hill. It is a luxury car after all. ?
  7. Hurray it seems to be functioning! Tim you were correct the old lid was deteriorating where the fuel line screws in . When attached the tension from the line pulled out the nut and broke the casting. ? I almost called you but remembered that based on sound advice I picked up two parts tanks at the Bakersfield Model T swap meet a few months ago. I didn't figure I would ever use them but I would dismantle them to better understand the operation. Turns out one had the exact style of top my original tank had. So, remove it clean it, clean up the needle valves with tooth paste and begin sucking and blowing on the ports to verify their function. Reassemble the tank and the new lid, attach it to my 15" vacuum source and With the fuel intake plugged the tank easily drew down to 15" and held it until I inverted it and the float shifted the valves and it dumped its vacuum. Set it upright again and it began immediately pulling 15" of vacuum. Install it on the car. Use the electric pump to get fuel to the carb so that it will run. Start the car. I plumbed a vacuum gauge into the priming hole that was in this lid. (not all lids have this port) This allowed me to sample the presence of vacuum in the center tank. Initially there was no vacuum <yikes> But I discovered that was because the tank was full and it was not calling for fuel. Rev up the engine to empty the float bowl in the carb and sure enough the float in the tank drops,allows vacuum into the tank - about 5" of vacuum - (it aint much, but it means that it is sucking fuel) Then when the tank is full it shuts off the vacuum. Thus allowing atmospheric pressure into the tank and this allows fuel to flow by gravity into the carb. ? I made a couple of short videos of this happening. I think this is the definitive way to watch a vacuum tank function. I have now driven the car around a bit, both on the flat and a hill climb and the vacuum gauge tells me that it is functioning normally sucking in fuel and shutting itself off. It did not stall going up 3-5 minutes of hill climb so it looks like it might be reliable. Now onto fixing other stuff to make it ready for some touring. Does anybody know the cruising (top?) speed I can expect from a 29 Cad? ? Thank you everyone for your help. Jim
  8. That looks like a heavy ceramic resistor. Generally there are only two like that that are used on a car. One for the ignition/coil (which is already in place next to the booster) and the heater/A-C blower. It should not need a ground, it only slows the blower when the switch is on low speed, and mounding it near the booster in the location suggested above would expose it to the cooling air that it should have when it is operated. (commonly these are mounted inside the heater/A-C box to be cooled)
  9. Beautiful. Does anybody recognize those hinge pin mirrors? I am looking for a set of 'touring' mirrors for my 29 Cadillac Town Sedan, and these look both practical and stylish. And yeah, I am well over this in just the purchase and mechanical repairs to the Cad. And I still aint done. ? Independents have always offered excellent value.
  10. As I see it the fuel gauge is the only key switched accessory. The ammeter is always on and the lights have their own switches.... Perhaps because of the design of the integral switch/coil, Dodge felt it was better to provide a separate switched terminal (which had to be located on the coil since the switch contacts are inaccessible) because if the fuel gauge drew power from the coil (rather than straight from the key) they thought it might reduce current to the coil thereby reducing the spark(?) I don't think a fuel gauge is going to draw enough current to upset the coil but if you do put your coil on one terminal of the replacement switch and the gauge on the other it will be just as Dodge did it.
  11. Get yourself a shop manual. There is no substitute for the wealth of information inside it. All the vacuum diagrams and troubleshooting diagrams are in there. There are plenty of old car vendors but I have found that if you check eBay you can probably get one for $20- $40
  12. m-mman

    Latch for ???

    I have looked at the picture dozens of times. I know that part! But darn if I can place it. Arrrrrggggg . . . I have touched that little bar that acts like a lock. . . . It cut my finger or broke my nail. . . . I remember thinking that I thought it was a bad design. . . . The 4 countersunk holes that receive Phillips head screws imply that it is from the mid to late 60s . . . . The small notches in sides of the flip open top are interesting It's just is not coming to me. . . . darn!
  13. Since no one has answered, I will make a comment. I have a 29 Cad and a 26 Lincoln. WHAT WERE THEY THINKING??? Yeah, the distance between the door and the bottom of the seat is ridiculous(!) I have size 12 shoes and yes, I also have to turn my foot sideways and stick it in straight. I have had to teach myself to twist and contort just to get in. (especially without damaging anything) I cannot just 'jump in and go'. Although I have gotten quicker with practice. Once inside, then there is enough room to be (reasonably) comfortable, but getting in and out is not at all like with my 1966 Mercury Parklane. Adjustable seats seems to be a late idea. They are fixed in the Lincoln. Cad introduced an adjustable seat as a new feature for 1929 but it aint much. Modifications? I will let the experts make a conclusive statement, but in the Lincoln (others?) the seat back seems to be a structural member of the body construction and any changes would not happen without a big investment in time and money.
  14. Neatest thing actually. All the style of a continental kit but without the additional weight and hassle. The rarest part of a completely installed option is the flat stainless 'pan' that fits behind the license plate, completely covering the opening over the fuel filler. Commonly lost when the plates are changed over the years. It is missing from the second blue car. As an FYI Ford literature listed them for 1955 cars also (they do fit) but I have never seen one on a 55.
  15. Update on my work repairing a vacuum tank Thank you to Tim Long for talking to me on the phone and helping me understand testing and resolve my issues. The following is what I have learned and might assist others. Vacuum tank – It must have good vacuum source. Is the engine a good source (timing? Carburetor? Vacuum line to the tank?) My 1929 Cadillac engine was drawing 15”. However, for testing you need a consistent source and the 29 wont run without fuel, so I attached a long rubber line to my 1971 Cad and used the 15” of consistent vacuum from that car. Some tanks have a spare hole in the top. I guess it is for filing/priming the tank. It can also have a nipple screwed into it to connect to a vacuum gauge and measure the vacuum in the tank. I did so and with all the ports plugged, the best I could draw in the tank was 10”. (obviously leaking somewhere) I found cracks in the pot metal near the fuel inlet in the lid. I covered them up with a coating of JB weld and was then able to draw 15” into the tank with all ports sealed. <hurray> Now on to testing the valves. Without getting into how a vacuum tank works just know that there are three functional ports on the top. 1. Fuel in from the tank 2. Vacuum from the engine 3. Vent of vacuum to the outside. There is also a flapper valve in the bottom of the inner tank. Remove lid and inner tank. Examine flapper valve. Of the many that I have examined (just 3) the little flap always looks fine, so you need to test it. It opens to allow fuel out to the carb (never a problem) but it needs to seal (vacuum tight) to draw fuel in from the gas tank. To test - Hold inner tank against your face and suck(!) The flapper valve should close and seal. Blow and it should open easily. I also tested it by quickly dipping the inner tank into a bucket of water to see if it would seal against a liquid. On two of the 3 tanks I have, about ¼ to ½ inch of water leaked in and it then sealed. I suspect that it took that long for the water pressure to build up against the outside of the flapper. On one inner tank the water continued to flow in until the tank was filled even with depth of the bucket. The flapper is bakelite It seals a brass surface ring that is embedded in it against the brass fitting. Tim suggested using fine (320) sandpaper to clean up the surfaces, which I did but after sanding I also saw no change in the sealing capabilities of the two good inner tanks. (either sucking or dipping into water) I then pronounced them working. There are two needle valves operated by a float mechanism. There are levers, pivots and springs. They do not seem to be disassembable. They are riveted together. If you have one that is bent or broken it seems that the only solution is replacement. Tim can supply new springs, and maybe he can fix the levers and arms, but you certainly will not be able to. But all this float and linkage stuff does is open and close two needle valves. One to turn on and off the vacuum from the engine and the other to vent the vacuum in and out of the inner tank. Again they are tested with your mouth. Screw in a hose barb or nipple and then attempt to move air in the proper direction and at the correct position of the float. With the float dropped down you should be able to suck through the engine vacuum port and NOT be able to blow air through the vent port. With the float up you should NOT be able to suck air through the engine vacuum port (engine vacuum shut off) and you should be able to blow air into the vent port. My two needle valves passed air in both directions with the float in both directions. How to fix it? Tim gave me the secret – polish the seats with toothpaste. Put a dab on the needles and seats and spin the shaft of the needle with your finger. It is NOT EASY to get your fingers between the levers and linkages but it can be done. However it also seems that you don’t have to spin them fast or long (I worked me for 5-10 minutes each) I stopped a couple of times and ran water through the holes/valves and blew some compressed air through them to help displace the crud that might have been removed through this lapping process. I was shocked(!) both valves began to seal and vent with the proper direction of the float. <hurray> I cut a new top gasket from cork (composition actually) Tim says he can supply a new one if you need it. Tim says that no additional sealer or chemicals are necessary. Assembly is tricky, getting the long pin at the bottom of the float into the hole in the inner tank takes patience (how did they do this in production?) but after that assembly is pretty straight forward. I reattached it to the 1971 vacuum source (and with the fuel inlet sealed) it drew down 15” in the upright position. This is the situation when it is sucking fuel from the gas tank. You can put your finger over the fuel inlet and you should feel a vacuum. I then flipped it upside down (this moves the float to the full position) and it correctly stopped drawing engine vacuum and quickly vented the tank through the vent port. Flip it upright and it sealed the vent port and opened the vacuum source. <hurray!> I then installed it on the firewall but ran out of time to test it under actual working conditions. But I am hoping for the best. Thank you, Tim, for your information and insight.
  16. 1970-72 specifically. (usually top line LTD) . They are H-E-A-V-Y and have a factory balance sticker on the backside. Generally they stay on, but because of the weight many of them ended up on the side of the road. Finding survivors with bright red centers can be a challenge. The plastic is not reproduced. FoMoCo used similar versions on Thunderbird and 1973-76 LTDs with different centers and other variations.
  17. This Merc parts book, printed in 1954. FYI -The farther away from the date of production the less reliable the information will be. Paint codes generally stay accurate as time goes by because somebody might want to correctly repaint a 5, 10 or 15 year old car. However interior and trim codes are commonly dropped or otherwise corrupted because rarely is anyone going to want to match the upholstery on a 5, 10, 15 year old car. Soft trim are also the first parts that manufactures drop and make obsolete so the codes become meaningless early on. Just reread your post. The 1960(?) parts book is commonly used. You have a April 53 book? Mine is December 53 Perhaps the red/black combos were added??? Especially if your car was built in July of 1953 - (end of the model year)
  18. Sounds like perhaps your problems are greater than with the OVERFLOW tank. The plastic bottle connected to the little overflow tube that exits near the radiator cap is for the sole purpose of catching the (little bit) coolant that escapes then holding it such that is is sucked back into the radiator. It's presence does not add in any way to the cooling capabilities of the radiator. If your tank is original and old and it has just cracked and broke, then you can replace it or not with something original or not. However if I remember correctly Buicks of this era used two tanks (radiator and windshield washer) and they are mounted on the radiator shroud and are rather integral to the underhood aesthetics If however your tank "blew apart" and it did so because of the huge force of expanding steam coming from the overflow tube, then you need to do more work with your cooling system before you worry about the bottle.
  19. Unlike in the world of 1950s Chevrolets, there is little to no standardized aftermarket parts for the purpose of installing modern components in these cars. You will have to work with what you have.
  20. I bought a 'repair kit' several years ago as I was starting the project and didn't know much (I still don't) It came with a cork gasket. When I took it apart this time I reassembled it with some permatex to give a better seal. The JB weld I put around the fuel inlet hole hardened over night and it seems to have helped. when I connected it to the 1971 vacuum source today - and when I sealed up the filter, the vent and the fuel inlet, it quickly rose to a full 15" that the 1971 was putting out. ? BUT open the valve on the filter and the vacuum drops quickly. I think this proves that the flapper valve is NOT holding/sealing OR Open the vent port and the vacuum drops quickly also. I think this proves that the vent port is not sealing. I have a couple of old parts tanks I got at a swap meet. I removed each of the inner tanks (same as mine) and I dipped them into a bucket of water. Fill the tank and each drains easily However, on one the water will seep in and will fill up the tank. If you put your finger and touch the flap momentarily it will seal and not leak water. The other one seals without a problem. Both flaps look the same. Obviously one has a flaw somewhere. How might one recondition the sealing surfaces on the flapper valve? So, perhaps I can take my tank apart and substitute the 'good to seal' inner tank but that would still leave the issue with the leaking vent port. The little 'needle' seal. It is all riveted in place . . . . ? How does one dismantle it? or clean up the cone seal and the seat in the lid?
  21. Yes I had seen the discussion regarding the White truck, and the Stewart Warner PDF was worthwhile. It is a systematic series of tests that can prove each component that seems to be scarce. I'll keep working on it
  22. Paint code 65 is Siren red body with India Black roof. Trim 366 is red & black vinyl The 27G is likely July 1952 (but it could be July 53) What is your unit sequence on the VIN? 26 is the number of the car that was shipped to that District Service Office that month.
  23. The car 1929 Cadillac. I have been filling the vacuum tank with the electric pump and having it gravity feed into the carb to get it running after the rebuild. However it has poor performance when test driving and I suspect it was running out of fuel. So its now time to test/prove/fix the vacuum tank. Put the brake bleeder vacuum hand pump to the fuel line and it fills the bottle easily. So gas tank & lines are good. I Remove the vacuum tank from the car for further testing. Connect the vacuum tank to the vacuum inlet on my running 71 Cad (good reliable 15" of vacuum) Then plumb a vacuum gauge into the fill port on the Vac tank. The valve in the glass bowl filter at the bottom is shut off. Tank being held vertically. Cover the fuel inlet port and no vacuum develops(!) UNTIL I plug up the atmospheric vent port Then it starts to rise S-L-O-W-L-Y ultimately reaching 10" Open the vent port and it drops quickly. Cover vent port and it sometimes rises and then doesn't. Play with the fuel inlet valve and the cracks in the lid seem to be leaking. Cover the cracks with JB weld (currently setting up) and now I have some questions. The vent valve seems to be failing. How do you prove that this is the problem besides plugging it up as I have? Then if it has failed how do you fix it? If the flap on bottom of the inner tank is leaking, will that keep it from sealing and developing vacuum? (the filter valve is closed) It just hangs there and swings easily BUT how do you know/test that it is really sealing well under a vacuum situation? The fuel inlet fitting, how does it seal? The threads seem to be straight (not tapered pipe) and there is a tapered area on the fitting and in the lid. BUT it also seems like there is a space for an O-ring(?) is there supposed to be one? While the outside of the vacuum inlet fitting is big, it has only a small hole to draw vacuum from the tank. I would think that this would delay building vacuum in the tank and slow the whole process. Should it be enlarged? In testing I have been using a large diameter brass fitting that would accept the rubber line from the 71 and it still draws down very slow. I would think drawing through the small hole it would be even slower. Thanks for any thoughts & suggestions
  24. Yeah Cad did use a sock in the tank. However the original was crudded up and torn. This previously trouble free car was parked for over a year while I sorted out the fuel problems. (and pulled out clumps of hair, and got a flat spot on my skull from banging it against the wall!) Trouble shooting involved 2 fuel pumps, 1 carb and numerous fuel lines, etc, etc, etc . . . . The sock was torn, and parts of it were sucked into the pipe plugging it(!). The filter in the pump became plugged, the filter in the carb became plugged. Of course the add on pre-pump filter would plug up also. Change or remove one it would run for a short time and then the other would quickly plug up. I kept hoping that I could eventually filter it all out. When changing tanks, I replaced the sending unit (gauge didn't work) with a reproduction one. The stainless steel sock on it was too fine of a mesh and fuel would not pass(!) Remove it and the fuel flowed . . . It felt like a wack a mole game! Fix one problem and another would quickly pop up. All the exact same symptoms but each from a different source. A few times I came close to demonstrating just how flammable fuel is and setting fire to the entire car!! (I'm sure you all understand) but EVENTUALLY I worked through it all and now it is fine ?
  25. I installed one on my 71 Cadillac ambulance. Ambulance only - unobtainable fuel tank that was 'clean' but also had a lot of sandy type, surface rust in it. It completely plugged disposable filters continuously!! Like 10-20 miles of running and eventually after just 30 minutes of idle run time. <yikes> Yes the Moeller filter collected this sandy rust and yes it plugged up and it eventually stopped the engine. I then removed and disassembled the filter and cleaned it out. The problem was that after 8-10 cleanings and dissemblings the rubber O-rings were no longer sealing. I hoped that EVENTUALLY the sandy rust would all be sucked out but no luck. I ultimately switched to very cheap disposable see thru filters. (it was much quicker to swap in a cheap new filter than to disassemble the Moeller filter especially on the side of the road) I finally had to give up on the tank itself and adapted a passenger car fuel tank (not perfect, but it works) and I haven't changed a filter in a long while. So, yeah, they do filter well, but eventually the end seals need replacement and the advantages of having a cleanable filter faded. Especially in the light of 99 cent bulk purchased disposable filters.