m-mman

There was a recent major lawsuit about the commissions on Real Estate transactions. Splitting the 6% sellers commission with the buyers agent was deemed to cheat the seller and effectively raised prices for the buyer. Very confusing but major changes in the future. I have never understood the “legality”(?) of bidders premiums. I wonder if some of these concepts will make it into the auction industry?

I’m looking closely, and it actually appears that the rear compartment hardware is purple. 😲 This must have been a true custom request from the first owner.

YES! ridiculously overpriced ("testing the waters" etc) but I believe that open Chevrolets from this era are scarce(?) Should also be enjoyed by those folks who believe that you just cant add too many accessories to a car. 😉 I have no connection or interest in the sale of this 1934 Chevrolet https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/moreno-valley-1934-chevy-master/7692881683.html Testing waters only, cash sale here, my 1934 GM Chevrolet Master Deluxe Roadster Convertible Rumble Seat car. restored some years ago to all original conditions, 6 volts, 207 straight six stove bolt engine, the car comes with everything including side door curtains, and right side tail light nos conditions, a brand new battery from Napa auto parts store, maintainer for the car battery new, rebuilt carburetor, turn key car or for your car collection, or enjoy it with your family. very rare car virgin car. All GM steel car no fiberglass junk. loaded with super rare and original car dress-up accessories as pictured. serious cash buyers hmu only, no time wasters wanted here. cash sale $95,000.00

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/moorpark-1937-oldsmobile/7686566884.html 1937 Oldsmobile F37, Sedan, Original, 4 doors. Straight 6 inline, 3 speed manual transmission. Has some surface rust. In the trunk it has a small spot of rust. Needs a brake job and fuel pump. Motor works and running. It has a clean title. Asking 11, 500 OBO I have no interest in the sale of this 1937 Oldsmobile

Dealer stock but is easy on the eyes. Looks nice https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/ctd/d/sherman-1930-chrysler-model-70/7685158311.html Folks, prepare to take a ride back in time with a show-stopping classic that exudes a blend of elegance, raw power, and an iconic style that helped shape the automotive golden era. Introducing the 1930 Chrysler Model 70 Phaeton ââ¬" a convertible that's less a vehicle and more a rolling piece of American history. Powering this beauty is a 3.6L Inline Six engine, a testament to an age when cars were built not just for speed but for grandeur. Paired with a 4-speed manual transmission, driving this Phaeton feels like a hands-on experience with history, a tactile connection to a bygone era of craftsmanship and genuine passion for automotive artistry. But what's truly captivating is its rarity. This isn't just any Model 70; this is the coveted Phaeton model. And to put it in perspective, it's one of a mere 279 ever produced. That's right ââ¬" it's not just rare; it's an elite member of a very exclusive club. Dressed in a distinguished tan exterior that radiates an almost sepia-toned nostalgia, you're immediately transported to the Roaring Twenties. The brown vinyl interior, complemented by bench seating, feels like an invitation to a more genteel time, a world where driving was as much about the journey as the destination. In terms of features, this Model 70 keeps things authentically vintage. We're talking manual steering and brakes, a nod to the purists who want their classics untainted by modern conveniences. But don't be mistaken, she's also got hydraulic brakes, ensuring that while you're cruising down memory lane, you're doing so with modern safety in mind. And to fire up this relic? The Delco Remy Ignition System takes center stage, adding just another layer to the car's impressive pedigree. In a nutshell, the 1930 Chrysler Model 70 Phaeton is more than a collector's dream. It's an embodiment of an era defined by innovation, elegance, and unbridled optimism. This isn't just a purchase; it's an investment in a legacy, a slice of history that you can touch, feel, and drive. Whether you're a die-hard collector or a history buff with a penchant for classic rides, this Chrysler is calling your name. After all, how often do you get the chance to own a piece of the past, especially one as rare and iconic as this? Act fast, because gems like these are few and far between! VEHICLE OPTIONS - RARE PHAETON MODEL - ONE OF 279 PHAETONS PRODUCED - MANUAL STEERING - MANUAL BRAKES - HYDRAULIC BRAKES - DELCO REMEY IGNITION SYSTEM

True, finding a car property in the LA area is nigh impossible. Happily I bought my car house in 1992. 🤓

If you think that the prices of old cars in LA is high, you should see the cost of real estate. 😂

We have seen several other V-8s priced lower. I dont think 1937 is a very popular year. Typical sub-optimal photos. I have no interest in the sale of this 1937 Ford. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/d/glendora-1937-ford-door-sedan-slant/7686858543.html 1937 V8 4 door sedan slant back. This is a highly collectible style car. Purchased from original owners son after the owner past. Car has been in storage in their garage and taken out on special occasion to show. Flathead V-8 engine with 3 speed transmission. Runs great. $38,000 or best offer

Not mine I have no connection with the sale of this 1936 Oldsmobile https://palmsprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/coachella-1936-oldsmobile-f36/7686928181.html Selling a 1936 Oldsmobile F36 four (4) door sedan. The car shares the same body style and some interchangeable parts with other 1936 GM cars (Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick). The Olds was in the process of being restored, but has sat for 4-5 years. The car odometer reads 44,197 miles (not sure if they are accurate), but will require fluids to be flushed and brakes serviced to get back on the road. The body is very straight and includes all the trim, Trippe passing lights, and original artillery wheels and hubcaps. The paint is decent (has scratches / chips) and can be driven as is or restored. The car is definitely a head turner and will set you apart from the other cars at the shows! Don't pass up the opportunity to own an Oldsmobile, they are becoming more sought after. Asking $9500 OBO. The last three photos are examples of what the car can look like when restored (or destroyed?). Note: I choose not to post these images.

Just 2 pictures and no usable text, but from what we can see it is not bad. . . . . https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/los-angeles-1929-plymouth-model-sedan/7682367321.html 1929 Plymouth Model U Sedan 4 cylinders restored Asking $22k OBO

My 1929 Cadillac V8 $15,000. Originally babbit - repour? Or modify with adapting some type of insert bearings? I had them poured and quality machined. The lifters are roller design. My builder found(?) Made new rollers and pins. The cam had to be welded and re-ground. The crank counter weights were BOLTED to the crank and the nuts were welded to the studs. You carefully cut the welds to remove the weights to remove the rods to disassemble and reassemble the parts. You are machineing non mono-cast blocks, and inline blocks and side valve blocks. To do this properly the boring and grinding machines have to be set up and aligned very differently from a SBC. Does the machinist REALLY know how to do this? Or could they grind or cut metal where they should not have? I took my Hudson 8 flathead head to a local shop for a simple resurfacing. They did it, BUT they couldn’t understand there existing a cylinder head that didn’t have valves in it. 90% of the heads they do contain both valves and cams.

My 1929 Cadillac club sedan. “Restored” in the early-mid sixties. Then sold to a guy who stored it in a warehouse in the very dry end of Washington state for 40+ years. Eventually his complex estate was settled and it made its way to me 7-8 years ago. Good original interior, excellent body and wood. I believed that I could get it running easily. Nope, stuck valves (very dry storage) and stuck heads necessitated a $15,000 high quality rebuild plus Radiator engine accessories etc. Left the paint alone. CCCA scored it 80 points. $25k to buy it. $25k fixing it. Been advised (and tend to agree) that it has an actual sales value about $30,000. Ask what you want, but this is what you’ll get. The OP car is either a labor of love, a parts car, or a hot rod.

You are correct. The subject car is a Custom 300. 1957 was easy. Custom, Custom 300, Fairlane and Fairlane 500. The 1958 model year started out the same way but by Christmas of 57 all the small body cars were called Custom 300 whether they had additional trim or not. For 1959 the small body was gone, the lineup was Custom 300, Fairlane and Fairlane 500. But by Christmas 1958 Ford put the square “Thunderbird” roof on the car and promoted the name Galaxie. It sold very well. The problem was that the Fairlane 500 name was baked into the trunk lid. So the top car was the Fairlane 500 Galaxie. (The older wrap around roof was discontinued and today is rare). The two open cars had not changed but to keep a little order, they were called Galaxies and received the Galaxie script. The F500 script is longer than the Galaxie script but it was engineered to fit into the 4-5 middle holes on the quarter panel, the assembly process just stopped punching the two most extreme holes.

The button assembly (with the flower pedal clips) pops out by tilting it to the side. Very similar to how the dash light sockets pop out. A strong possibility is that where the wires plug in they are dirty or loose.

Methodical (time consuming) testing to prove the location of the problem THEN repairing the problem. Congratulations, you are learning how to fix an old car. 😁

The Town sedan (fastback) I like it! Only a few dollars more than the 49 Dodge Wayfarer. 🤔 Note the original sales contract; “Low Pressure tires”.

Has playing hard to get, ever helped in selling a car?

Have people read the description? This car has won pretty much every top national award possible. Perhaps it has some wear in the last 20 years but I have no reason to doubt that it is in an as built condition. Lincoln Zephyrs were unlike any other car of their era. Yes their streamlined unibody construction was engineered as a closed car and any deviations were compromises. 1936-37 there were no open models. The admired 3 passenger coupe didn’t appear until 1938. Lincoln was fairly locked into sedan only production. This is a 4 door convertible sedan. ANY prewar convertible sedan has a roof that is a PITA to lower and in the era, it rarely was. Convertible sedans are a “conspicuous consumption” body style. Buying one you knew that you would rarely lower the top. The status was that you had paid significantly more for an obvious feature that you were never going to use. An open display of wealth. Who cares what it looked like with the top down. You had no plans to lower it anyway.

Perhaps it is the language barrier but I am having trouble understanding the problem. The sizes 11” drum front and rear. width 3” front and 2 1/2” rear. According to the Rock Auto site the Dynamic Friction 26500 & 26400 should be correct. If you are asking about why one shoe has lining (coating?) that is longer than the other? The brakes are a “servo” design and the shorter lining is installed towards the front. The longer lining is installed towards the rear. The rear most shoes do the most braking. post a photo of your problem

The specific technical words are detonation and deflagration. Either way it was a big boom.

Review the diagram. Power from the relay is brought to the; steering wheel, turn signal switch, horn ring looking for a ground. This 12 volt (looking for a ground) is an extension of the coil in the relay. Action: 12 volts through the relay coil, that when grounded at the horn ring pulls the relay switch together and send power to the horns. If you feel that the relay is bad, they aren’t that expensive to replace. Again you can use the ohm meter to test the connection between the steering wheel horn button and the plug at the relay

The first couple of hundred Ts in 1908 had water pumps. (So the design and parts existed). In Henry’s pursuit of fewer parts the rest of the T production was thermosyphon only. In a world where every car has a water pump, it is difficult to believe that a T could do without one, but it did! Henry’s simplicity comes through. But for the thermosyphon to succeed the system (radiator mostly) does have to be correct and clean. Most T people view a water pump like 50s & 60s people view electric fans in front of a radiator. (What’s wrong? Why did the owner do that?).

The only problem with an electric pump on an ancient carburetor is that the electric pump can easily overpower the needle-seat and float leading to a dangerous fuel leak situation. The original “fuel pump” was a vacuum tank that sent fuel to the carburetor by gravity. The pressure was minuscule. 1/2 psi? Even with pressure reducers it is difficult to get the pressure that low. It looks like a wonderful car, fix the vacuum tank (not that difficult) move the electric pump to the rear to use to prime the vacuum tank and you are ready to enjoy.

Forget the color code. The faded colors on the original 60 year old plastic is not going to look as described in the diagrams. “There are wires that are disconnected and cut off” …..? It is easy to tell yourself that these don’t matter. But they do matter! The wires (original?) were put there for a reason. You can’t have wires that are cut or disconnected and NOT have issues somewhere. They need to be fixed. Repairing-restoring electrical systems is a PITA. It takes gobs of time and it wracks your brain. But you can succeed IF you are meticulous and detailed and logical and never expect to “cut to the chase” or a quick ending. Start at the steering wheel. Find the button that is the horn wire. Follow and trace the wire physically from the button to the connector (AKA bunch of wires) exiting the steering column. Does the wire look cut? Crushed? Is the electrical tape that holds the wire set together damaged anywhere? Can you push/pull the wires in and out of the tube/tunnel that they live in within the steering column? (They might only move 1/2 to one inch) Next take your ohm meter to check the connectivity of the horn wire in the steering column. You know the correct wire at the top button, disconnect and check for continuity of perhaps each of the steering column wires until you find which one IS the horn wire. Again the colors are probably not going to look as the book describes. If you can’t prove continuity of the wire from the turn signal switch to the wire as it leaves the steering column then your break is in the column. Note you really don’t want to remove the wires from the steering column and replace the turn signal switch. It is not easy. Similarity you DO NOT (cannot?) run an additional wire through the steering column. If your ohm meter shows that the horn wire in the column is good (as I think it will) Then continue physically following and touching and looking at the wires that are/were plugged into the column. Yes you will be crawling under the dash. Yes it is an uncomfortable job that requires physical contortions of your hands, arms and upper body. But you have to look for damage anywhere along the harness. When & if you come to a connector you separate it and use your ohm meter to verify that that wire is not broken and can transmit electricity. The interior harness will end at the firewall. Now you find the connector under the hood and again physically search for damage or breaks. Again using your ohm meter to discover where the (ohm meter) testing electricity stops. Then you should know where the wire is broken and make a repair. Electrical troubleshooting only happens through you investing the hours (sometimes many hours) or you pay someone else for their hours. There are no shortcuts.

Wow! What a lot of effort to put into a car and effectively be exactly where you started. A car that needs most everything done to it including redoing the quick repairs that the seller has done. New fuel tank, but you didn’t do a full brake job so that it would safely drive? And the booster/master is not correct but one of those universal jobs that people use to add a dual setup? Note this car was originally equipped with a dual master cylinder, you could have saved money by buying a correct replacement master cylinder from Rock Auto. A base sedan A 1965 steering wheel The engine doesn’t look rebuilt but rather replaced with another year. Rarely does a 100 point restoration return the money spent on it. I don’t think that even the minimal amount the seller has spent on this vehicle will be returned either.