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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. Which means that it really is not a "road draft" system . . . . Sounds like more of a 'positive' flow type system. . . . ?? I think 41 Buick was the first with a positive flow (intake vacuum) crankcase ventilation. . . . ? The Ford system relied ONLY on the suction that resulted from moving forward. Hardly any suction at road speeds, and nothing when stopped. And with out a consistent flow of ventilating air, the 'excrement' vapors are condensing inside the cooler parts of the engine (valve covers, lifter area) becoming solid carbon particles. As I remember the Pontiac flat eight never used an oil filter?? There was something about the design of the oil pick up in the pan that acted as an oil cleaner?? Remember that Oil filters were an optional accessory on engines for many years. If you can add one to a car today, I would advise it.
  2. Ford Y-block. . . . . The can is original and it is filled with the copper, scrub pad, mesh type material. It acts as a condensation point for the oil vapors so they can run back into the oil pan. Remove it, (the can unbolts from the tube part). Clean the mesh, reinstall and then expect it to drip again later when the mesh becomes re-saturated. Disassembly and cleaning was considered regular maintenance. Road draft systems are commonly misunderstood. As described above, the idea is that air is drawn in (fan forced?) at the top (generally the oil filler) it flows through the engine and then THE OIL SATURATED FUMES exit at the bottom. The cut angle on the exit tube is not done to be pretty. It faces to the rear so that as the exit tube is flying through the wind stream at highway speeds, there is a 'low pressure area' that acts like a tiny vacuum to remove the oil fumes. Why are there oil fumes in your engine? You have hot oil that is being sprayed onto hot metal (250+ degrees) It lubricates, but it also smokes. Imagine a pan of oil bubbling on the stove. Smoke is normal for hot oil. The road draft system was never efficient at removing the vapors. After about 1962 there was a direct connection made between the crankcase and the intake manifold such that intake vacuum could suck the vapors into the engine to be burned rather than becoming sludge in your engine and forming acidic compounds and being smelly. If you are not into exact originality removing the valley pan and the few other parts from a 1962+ Y-Block will give you all the original factory set up to convert to a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. Not a bad idea to make things better inside your engine and reduce the oil smells.
  3. With both wheels up and trans in neutral the only resistance to spinning will be from the brakes. Back them off, pull the drums, make things right, etc. When they are free, then you can begin to evaluate the differential.
  4. 1966 Ford 390, original style (all new) points set up. Ended up with every ignition related problem that you could possibly have. In complete frustration I almost swapped it all for a Pertronix. THEN I replaced the (brand new) condenser (with one from an old distributor) and all the problems vanished. . . . . Condensers, never underestimate their ability to cause bizarre problems.
  5. Jacked up one wheel or two? Assuming that there is NO BRAKE drag: If it has a limited slip type differential (positraction) then with One wheel on the ground and the trans in neutral then there is supposed to be resistance to turning the jacked up wheel. (it means the limited slip action is working) Get BOTH tires off the ground and with the trans in neutral (and positraction working) both tires should rotate freely and in the same direction. Non-limited slip differential - one wheel up, trans in neutral and it should spin freely. Both wheels up, trans in neutral and the other wheel may or may not spin. Put trans in gear (park) and spin one wheel and other should spin opposite direction. Now with an understanding how it is supposed to work, you should be able to better evaluate any brake drag.
  6. Ok, I will comment. Old cars, what are they worth? Anything you want to ASK, but that is never what it finally takes to get one SOLD. Your dad wants $10,000. . . . Ok, he is probably attached to it and that asking price probably includes some emotion. However if you want to evaluate the asking price of any old car look around and see what else you can get for that kind of money. $10,000 can buy some very interesting, very unusual and attractive cars. While this is a 2 door hardtop (interesting) it is not that unusual. Rust free is nice but it is in California (I live maybe a mile or two from you) and everything here is rust free. Rust free is most valuable east of the Mississippi. To get this car there will cost maybe $1500 to $2000. That must be subtracted from the total sales price of the car. If YOU take it east (car corral somewhere?) you will come closer to the asking price but I think that the sold price would still be significantly. less. As an FYI - I recently offered a barn fresh, parked inside in 1971, rust free 1958 Edsel. Not running, but to get it out of my driveway (again I am in your neighborhood) I took $500. Everybody commented on how nice it was, and how little work it would take to fix it, but nobody want to pay shipping to a part of the country where 'rust free' really means something. So, the big question is 'How much does your father want this out of his driveway?' and then price it accordingly.
  7. Sluggish?? Before I changed the plugs I would check the points and timing. Does your mechanic (or you) understand ignition points and the need to have them clean and adjusted properly? And how they can affect timing?
  8. All the above about wrenches is 100% true BUT. . . . none of it may solve your problem. What do you mean 'it take more effort'??? More effort to do what? A 'too big' fuel line is not really going to cause problems. Are you having trouble starting? Is it hard to start after sitting a while? Is it running bad on the highway? You may end up with a nice looking fuel line, but find that your problem remains. Tell us more.
  9. And sadly it is always YOUR fault . . . 1961 Stude Convertible 90+ point restored car that had been sitting 5-7 years. A week on the phone with the 'experienced trusted mechanic' who had never seen and could not conceive of a mechanical fuel pump. (with no idea where it was located or how to change one) "But they are ALL in the gas tank!" Another nasty call because the battery went dead. They were admiring the car in the garage one night and left the doors open and the lights on . . . "But they are all supposed to go off automatically . . . " Some people should not be allowed to have an old car.
  10. For what it is worth, your picture of valve #5-88 with the three hose connections looks a lot like 1958-1960 Lincoln. . . .
  11. It needs to be remembered that these "Ford" V-8s actually had "two different cooling systems that use a common radiator". Two water pumps, each moving water on each side of the engine. The water does not cross over in the engine itself. It is conceivable (but highly unlikely) that just one side would run hot and the other is fine. With this design Ford had a production problem, they didn't want two gauges and two wires, so the sender on just ONE side is a variable resistor to move the needle. (The one with a single connection) The sender on the other side (two wires) has a bimetal spring that when hot, simply flexes over and grounds the system and pegs the needle. Otherwise it simply relays the input from the single connection to the gauge.
  12. Yup, one of Ford's better ideas, double cut reversable keys. First introduced on 1965 full size Fords and Mercurys. Older bodies like Mustang, Falcon Comet retained single edge keys until their next major body change. Aside from the decoration on the head they interchange well into the 1980s. There is only one set of tumblers so to function they actually only need to be cut on one side. There were some applications where the door key was coded different from the ignition and in those cases you can cut the two different combinations onto one key and as long as you have the correct side 'up' you can use it in two places. The trunk and door/ignition keys have their offset areas reversed so that a trunk key wont fit into the door and vice versa.
  13. It is the vent to allow filling. As you pump gas in quickly it allows the air to escape. Something that is forbidden in the evaporative emission containment world of the 21st century but didn't matter back in 1952. And it would also vent the tank as you draw from it.
  14. Be happy it doesn't have the 430! The car was built for the FE engine and it is nicely balanced with it. The 430 was designed for the Lincoln and the Lincoln for a 430. It will make a Bird nose heavy, for no appreciable gain in performance. Also the bigger 430 transmission, has unique gaskets and filters that are virtually unobtainable. Good luck with your sale.
  15. It has a 1961 Lincoln Continental look to it but those are brown (wood colored) and yours is black. 1962? I cant find a good picture of one.
  16. Check to see If the pulley has (always faint) timing numbers on the edge. It looks a lot like Ford FE front pulley. (352, 360, 361, 390, 428 type engines)
  17. Yes the VIN is for a 1957 Lincoln Premier 4 door sedan. Coral and white. Here are some links. https://www.lincolnoldparts.com/pdf/parts-books/1956-1959-Lincoln-Chassis-Body.pdf https://www.lincolnoldparts.com/parts-books
  18. Behind the die cast plate that holds the TS switch there is a nylon bushing that is between the plate and the shift tube that runs the length of the column and actuates the lever under the hood. There are also nylon bushings at the bottom. They could be defunct and causing your noise but pulling the column apart can be tricky if you have not attempted it before. If you remove the steering wheel and spray some oil (WD40?) under the plate it might run into the place where it might do some good. Otherwise It may need a complete disassembly to check and lube everything.
  19. https://brakehosesunlimited.biz/ He readily provided unobtainable hoses for my 1959 Lincoln rear suspension and my 1966 Ford (first year) disc brakes. Friendly and informed
  20. The beautiful twists shown above assume that you can actually get a needle nose or dikes into position to bend them pretty. Sometimes just bending one leg to hole it in place is a challenge. On suspensions (front ball joints and tire rod ends), I like to leave the head sticking out a bit to make it easier to grasp later with the diagonal cutting pliers. The ball joints seem to get badly crudded up with grease that then attracts dirt, and somehow they also become rusted in the hole. Sometimes I have been lucky enough to clip the head and work out one leg which allows a little room for the other leg to jiggle out. But completely stuck they can become. Once I clipped and trimmed and tugged and still had to unscrew the nut over the remains of a pin that was still partially in place. Hours spent on a 3 minute job. Very happy that it was mild steel. . . . . Also on front wheels if there is a static collector under the hub cover (1950s & 60s) the folded over leg needs to be cut short to insure that it doesnt grab and destroy the collector which runs against the end of the spindle. I have found very few original static collectors because of poorly place pins.
  21. The small copper tube should not be just hanging in the open, it should be in the stream of air as it flows through the heater core/system. This little novelty works in conjunction with the cable/lever on the dash to control the amount of water that flows through the core. (remember we are talking about a heater VALVE) You set the cable/lever at low or one half and the tube is heated/cooled and allows or restricts the flow of hot water through the heater core leading to a comfortable interior climate. 🙂 When the lever is on high it doesn't restrict the water flow. Typically the capillary tube is inside the heater box, coiled up right next to the core. Installed correctly you should not even see it. On my 1959 Lincoln there is one valve in the center of the firewall and two heater cores. (one in each kick panel) The valve has TWO capillary tubes. Each is threaded across firewall behind the dash to each kick panel with the last 12 inches(?) wound around next to the core. (Yes a real pain the change!)
  22. Not yet said but the negotiation process can also suggest legitimacy. If a buyer doesn't even try to deal "I'll take it, the price is fine!" it might be fishy If a buyer doesn't even look at the car or ask questions "You say it runs, that fine with me" "I trust you that there is no rust" It might be fishy. Car people are persnickety They want to look and negotiate . A crook will want to make a deal and leave.
  23. Nope. Still here. Typical people talking "I only wish . . . . (it was closer, I had more time, etc.)" As much as people talk about overpriced cars and how they want a bargain, when they do come up it seems few people will actually step up. It's been here this long, it will just be here longer. I got the space. FYI when the nice rust free 1958 Edsel finally left my yard, it was for $500. So much for "It just costs too much to ship a car". Just dreamers making excuses.
  24. Still available . . . When they say 'you cant even give things away', they are correct ☹️ The orange bed is visible poking over the fence. As soon as I get my (expected) notice from building and safety, they will turn into scrap. And I will have $20 -$50 in my pocket. What might be their only true value.
  25. The enforceabilty involves damages. If you sold your car you presumably received the full value that existed for it AT THAT TIME. If I buy the car and am able to sell it for a higher amount that is my good luck and you (the seller) have not been damaged legally. Presumably I sold it for a higher amount because I . . . changed the selling location/venue, added value to the car such as repairs, the market conditions changed during my ownership or I was just able to find a buyer who would pay more than you could. Once an item has been sold The seller has no legal right to share in any subsequent profits AND equally important, the seller has no responsibility to share in any loses. (any misrepresentation of the item would be used to cancel the original deal) An example of this is the dealer who is trying to reverse the deal on a very expensive Seinfeld Porsche. Presumably he is unable to make a profit and wants to back out by claiming fraud. This does look like a fine car being offered at a very fair price and I hope it finds a loving home but one it is sold, the new owner can do with it as they wish.