• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by m-mman

  1. Interesting but totally unenforceable. The auto industry tried this is 1945-46 during the sellers market (OPA prices were fixed on 'new' cars but there were no caps on the prices for 'used' cars) So, the process was to buy a new car today and sell it tomorrow for significantly more. Lots of legal time spent trying to stop the practice but to no avail. In one case the judge could not even define a used car for the purpose of preventing the black marketers. He disregarded the 'titled and registered' that people use today and wanted to make it based on mileage or time. He failed.
  2. Agreed. The heat riser valves were put on cars because people expected their brand new car to fire up quickly, run without stalling, and produce heat within moments of starting during a bitterly cold northern Minnesota winter morning. Nobody drives their collector car that way. They just cause problems during summer driving when most collector cars are on the road. It might be of minimal value for a Christmas parade but in that situation just warm up the car before you ever take off.
  3. When the wheels are straight there should be no real pressure in the system. . . . The pump is FLOWING fluid through the control valve and if the spool valve (within the control valve) is centered (as it should be with the wheels straight) it flows right back into the reservoir with no PRESSURE. (OK, just slight enough to cause a flow) Only when the spool valve is cocked off center is fluid directed being directed to one side of the pressure cylinder and the restricted flow through the pressure cylinder (sometimes called a ram) then 'pushes' the power cylinder the proper direction to ASSIST in turning. When turning is stopped pressure is stopped and the FLOW is directed back into the reservoir and circulation is resumed with no pressure. (even if the wheels are turned slightly) Fluid under pressure GETS HOT!!! Do not ever hold a P/S system in a full pressure situation more than a few seconds as damage from the rapidly heating fluid can result. What is your experience with 1950s steering systems? As noted above if you are only used to modern rack and pinion designs they will feel sloppy and imprecise. That's the way they were 60 years ago.
  4. Yup, that was them. They/dad had a disassembled 46-7 conv in the garage
  5. The 212, yeah that's what one friend had in his 47 coupe. His brother had a 53 Hornet coupe. Corvair bucket seats and 3 speed Hurst floor shift. it was 1973-4. . . .
  6. Hello, in the back of my mind I have an interest in someday 'stepping up' and buying a 46-7 Hudson. They just seem like neat cars. I am not in a rush, I would only want a car that feels right. (I am sure you know what that means) Body style isnt that important but the Commodore trim seems to be worth it. Decades ago I had friends with Hudsons and I learned why the Hornet deserved its reputation. But for the earlier years what is the difference between the 6 and the 8? I understand they are both 'splasher' engines(?) not full pressure lube. I remember my friends being very down on the 8 ("The 6 is a way better engine") but I never understood why. So 6 or 8? What is the difference and which one is better? power, driveabilty parts, durability, fuel mileage. etc., etc. Is there anything about these cars that I should beware of? Thanks for any input
  7. Yeah it is a handy feature. My hobby truck didn't have one and all this bed buying and switching that I did was to finally end up with one. Now I have these left. Not shown is that the trailer comes with three wheels with inflated tires . . . . Wanna come get it?
  8. For Sale 1955 Superior Cadillac Moderne (meaning: has corner windows) Ambulance. This is a real ambulance not a combo car. It was delivered in blue and white colors, with blue & white interior. Originally serving in the Ventura California area with Courtesy Ambulance. They retired it in 1966 (black plates). I bought it in 1983, the motor was shot so I got a 1955 sedan parts car, swapped the motor and trans and drove it for a while. School, job and life saw it parked in dry desert conditions beginning around 1984. You can see it is covered with blowing dust and has sunburn damage, but it is a rust free car underneath. It has not been abused after its service life was finished. It still has the original metal cabinets and its non elevating Ferno-Washington cot. It comes with a pile of extra parts from the sedan parts car including fenders, hood, doors, dashboard, front suspension and the ambulance motor & water cooled trans. (unique to commercial chassis). 1950s ambulances are rare and I would love to restore it but realizing that I wont get back to fixing it, I am trying to find it a new home. $1000 for everything. Located in the Los Angeles area.
  9. Matt I have heard you discuss the OD in your Cad before. What gears are you running on the back of it? My 1929 Club Sedan has 5:1 and it screams at 45-50 (!) It is not really driveable as it is. Sadly torque tubes make adding anything to the driveline go from simple to rather complex.
  10. I actually bought it on Craigslist. (and it is even titled and licensed as a trailer) but I no longer have the patience to deal with Craigslist flakes. Sadly it is so much easier to just give things away or scrap them. One bed could be strapped to the trailer and they can both be moved at once.
  11. I have two rust free truck beds for a 1967 to 1972 Ford truck. There is some typical dings from loading. One tailgate between them. One is mounted on a chassis and functions as a trailer. I finally got the bed I was seeking for my 69 F-100 and now these need to go. FREE! Take them before they go to the scrapper. Los Angeles California Area.
  12. You used the wording "just changed over" tell us more Do you mean that you added a complete 1957 FoMoCo linkage assist type system? OR have you added some aftermarket kit 'rack & pinion' or other design type of power steering?
  13. Interesting to compare the price/prestige structure between La Salle, Buick and the (base model) Cad. There was a difference between the Cad and the Buick (overhead valve in line vs. V type side valve) but I still have trouble understanding why someone would consider a LaSalle? Especially in the early 30s when they looked just like the Cad, but cheaper. And since this 5 passenger coupe seems to have a built in trunk, how much does this guy plan to carry in the accessory one? Guess he just wanted to have 'all the toys'.
  14. Request from a friend, Unknown to me. Thinking that perhaps there are two trunks? The visible one (on rack?) seems like it would leave a big space and it doesn't seem like the body would curve to fill that space.
  15. This is a video of the vacuum tank operating on my 29 Cad. When the tank is full there is no vacuum loss. Then as the level gets low it draws vacuum for a few seconds and shuts off again. So, not a continuous leak. And yes the vapors in this system might not represent a pure atmospheric type leak. A vacuum powered HVAC part or a vacuum advance would also operate for a few seconds then there would no longer be a vacuum leak. The fan & wiper system however would provide a continuous leak. . . . . Perhaps with the crude carbs of the vacuum wiper era (running rich?) and the fact that the device(s) would be operated mostly at highway speed, the loss might be insensible. But a long drive with both the wipers going AND the fan spinning there must have been a leaner mixture. The vacuum leak from the wipers while operating is probably less than from a broken or disconnected vacuum wiper rubber line. That situation I have noticed on an old car. If you operate the lights, electric heater fan and every other electrical accessory and have a weak battery, it is possible to overdraw the generator output and possibly stall the engine. (idle) If you operated every possible vacuum accessory (top? antenna? etc.) perhaps you could also stall the engine at idle? Hummmmm. . . . Maybe I will just go back to sleep
  16. I just got a 1946 Automotive News newspaper and in it is an advertisement from the Trico corporation for their line of vacuum powered windshield fans. (the little ones that mount on the steering column or dashboard) The ad text reads: "Here is one fan which puts no drain on your battery - which requires no wiring - which operates on cost free harnessed air power and as dependability as your windshield wiper." The target audience would likely also include heavy trucks. How truthful do you think this position is? Is the operation of a continuous vacuum accessory (fan/wiper) actually 'cost free'? (fuel and maintenance) An electrical drain would require a little more effort to spin the generator, but these things are essentially functioning as a vacuum leak. Is the engine perhaps operating a little leaner because of them? The additional air is brought into the manifold after the carburetor, but how many CFM of non-fuel air would it possibly be? Would a leaner mixture somehow result in better MPG? In mileage contests all non essential electrical drains are stopped, but nobody induces a vacuum leak for better fuel mileage. Maintenance - An electrical drain might wear the brushes faster, but could a 'vacuum leak' burn the valves faster? (or do any other damage?) Maybe these slight differences would show up only in the cost conscious area of commercial trucking. With a 3 brush generator system, tuning the electrical output to compensate for various electrical accessories might be difficult, so before regulators, perhaps vacuum power was better? An engine's vacuum 'draw' (inches of Hg) I think is consistent regardless of the size, number of cylinders or design (OHV, side valve) Is this true? As engines evolved from say 1920 to 1940 were there changes in their ability to operate a continuous vacuum accessory? (Not talking about vacuum drop when climbing a hill, but a lower power engine would certainly have the throttle open farther and therefore provide less vacuum) Do you think Trico's claims were accurate? or were they promoting a dying technology? Continuously operated vacuum powered accessories. . . .
  17. I assume that the body is wood framed. The words "completely disassembled" and wood framing are very scary when used together. Why was the body disassembled? Was the wood rotten? Are the wood pieces usable or even patternable? I started with 50s & 60s cars and am now moving slowly into 'ancient cars'. I have learned that the mechanicals (restored frame) are the easiest parts of the job. Suggestion: post pictures of the body. What are you facing. The repair needs may be more akin to a carpentry skills than to a mechanical ability.
  18. I have used my bubble balancer to make usable some rather non-standard wheels. My 66 Ford 1 ton (dually) tow truck with split rims (tubes and flaps) came home from tire installation with a hell of a bounce. Huge center hole, too big for the cone on the balancer so I lined it up visually on the bubble balancer flange and put weights on the rim until the bubble was in the middle. Heavy assembly I think it used 4-5 ounces(?) but it was enough to smooth it out. Friend had a 35 Pierce Arrow very original car with new tires on original wires. Again an obvious out of balance tire. I centered it visually on the bubble machine and because the wheel had no lip to hammer the weights to, I ended up putting them against the rim and securing them under the trim ring They stayed in place for the next 2-3 years that he had the car. Bubble machines may not be the absolute best, but I have found they get the job done.
  19. http://www.karpspb.com/booster.htm These folks have done all of mine
  20. Hummmmm. . .perhaps an old style bubble balancer would meet your needs? There is no spinning forces involved, all it needs to do is sit there.
  21. I dont want to use the word 'sold', but the car is now gone from my driveway. Sometimes it just takes a while to move some metal.
  22. Actually not a hearse but a "Combination car". The interior can carry either a casket OR a gurney. The panels in the floor flip over reveling either a smooth surface for a cot or rollers for a casket. It also has both a bar on the left side to hold the cot and holes in the floor to secure the bier pins to hold the casket. There are also two jump seats to accommodate attendants. The siren was under the hood and the (generally) single red light on the roof could be attached/removed with a big wing nut. These could be used as an ambulance (generally to bring people home from the hospital or to a convalescent home, not 911 emergency work) or more commonly to transport a non-casketed body such as when making a removal from a hospital or residence.
  23. m-mman


    Hummmmmm. . . . good advice However, I am wondering about your adjective 'pre-war' fans? Why might a 1935 fan be bad, and a 1950 fan be OK? in the late 60s early 70s Ford used a thin metal flex fan and they were the subject of a recall due to breaking. Checking any fan would be a good idea, but I am not sure how to check for cracks that are not easily seen.
  24. After seeing all the pictures of Henney roadsters, I have to speak up. Henney was a builder of Professional cars. They built Hearses and ambulances. The passenger cars built are minuscule, your part most likely came from a hearse. In the early years they did use some of their own components, but generally they used a purchased chassis. Packard of course, but also Oldsmobiles and Pierce Arrows. When they did use these chassis they always swapped the emblems & hubcaps to show only the Henney name. I think that this the book that you need to be searching through: https://www.amazon.com/Henney-Motor-Company-Complete-History/dp/1583882332
  25. As I remember the 83 did have only a 2 row core (maybe 3, but definitely NOT 4) but it did have a shroud. The 64 had an accessory fan but no shroud. Today I know the 1964 A/C cars had them, but back then dad had no understanding. I was only 5-10 years old when we had the 64, so there are a lot of missing bits of information. I think dad removed the thermostat in an attempt at better cooling because we never had an effective heater in the winter. I dont think a recovery tank would have helped the 64 because it heated up quickly and blew blew out the coolant, (who knows the cap pressure??) leading to greater overheating. Yes, a recovery tank would have helped REFILL the radiator after it overheated, but we always stopped and did that ourselves. The recovery tank never played a role on the 83 as the coolant never overpressurized the cap enough to fill the bottle and then return to the system later. It just never got over normal temp (195 thermostat?) and never lost any coolant.