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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. The mystery that has never been solved is why some cars are so easy and practically restore themselves. Others are seemingly infested with demons and kick and fight you at every job. It doesnt matter the year or make or even the condition they started out in. Dont they know we are trying to help them? We are saving their lives! Why do they fight us so? Maybe its like a wounded animal. They should be more grateful darn it!!!
  2. Good for you! We have all felt that way one time of another but rarely get the conclusion that you had.
  3. Ok, I got to go to the garage for a few moments. The non-resistor plugs were gaped at .025. (book says .025 - .028) I reduced them to .020. Wires are all new. Rubber is soft, no cuts or cracks can be seen. (again wire core, no resistance) The boots are one year old from Steele Rubber. Again no cuts or cracks can be seen. I put a wrap or two of electrical tape around each boot. Running it in the garage and no more stray sparks are seen. 🙂 However I still can elicit a big spark from the #1 wire on the cap. (the one in the picture) The others elicit no more sparks. Strangely I can still get some small sparks from the CLIPS that hold the cap(!) Since these are 'grounded' at the distributor body, and they are not touching the ignition anywhere, I am wondering if this could be some static electricity???? Touching the probe to each plug connection and I get a good spark there (as you would expect) so each wire must be conducting well. . . ? I can also elicit a small spark near the coil tower & boot. (smaller than the #1 at the distributor) but these do not stall or stumble the engine. Have not had chance to test drive. Leaving soon for family weekend event. I full understand that this strange situation is going to take time and Ed, I appreciate that you are staying with it and supporting me. We will just keep digging slowly and methodically. Its a hobby, this is the fun part correct? The only dead line is when you get out here to see it for yourself in June. Perhaps it can even develop into diagnosing something that you have never seen before? Unlikely. Jim
  4. The car is a 1929 Cadillac, everything is rebuilt and new but it wont go over 40-45 mph. It is as if it hits a governor. No stalling, just loss of being able to do anything more. I expect a long troubleshooting process, thankfully I am getting expert help and advice from Ed Minnie. It has a Classic & Exotic new distributor that Ed put on his machine and verified as functioning well. I reinstalled the distributor and while adjusting the timing and what not, I touch the cap and it bites me(!) It is leaking electricity from somewhere. Since a loss of spark or cross fire could cause the symptoms I decide check it out where the electricity is coming from. I use a test light probe and connect a wire to a good ground such that I can touch and probe around the cap and look for any sparks with the lights out. Turns out there are plenty. All coming from the towers on the cap. Most are very small and seen only with the lights completely out, but they are there. I remove the cap and wash it in a degreaser soap and a brush just in case there is any dirt or carbon tracking. No cracks are seen on the cap. But it is an 'old original' cap. . . . The wires are Packard 440 solid wire core, all new 6 months ago. The ends are soldered to the plug and distributor connectors. The rubber nipples are Steele Rubber from about a year ago. All wires are shoved tightly into the cap. I continue getting sparking to ground so I wrap each plug wire in electrical tape and pack it back in under the rubber nipple. This stops MOST of the stray spark leakage, but it continues on one wire especially. (pic attached) It is bright and hot. As you can see it seems to be coming from either the rubber nipple or the plug wire. Strangely I am also getting a VERY SMALL spark from the clip that holds the cap(!) It is very small and not photograph-able. As I understand things, there should be no electricity getting to this part. It is only one clip and I cannot see and cannot provoke any sparking from the distributor body itself. The only thing that is not new is the cap itself but the sparks are not seen when I touch anywhere on the cap itself, only where the wires enter the towers. (and the clip) FYI - I called Autozone and I guess they just cant get a new cap for a 90 year old car, so I will have to reuse it . . . . However if the cap is somehow leaking can it be 're-sealed' by spraying on a clear paint or nail polish? Any ideas? I am stumped. The car runs fine in the garage. I haven't tried it back on the road yet. Maybe this isnt really much of a problem operationally? To solve the main operational issue, Ed says he will next walk me through the carb and fuel system, but this is something.
  5. Thank you! I was stuck on Dodge and it wasnt a Chrysler . . . The snow melting over the speed lines are strange in their own way.
  6. I am thinking a 35-6 Mopar but the grille chevrons are throwing me and there are no trim under the headlights. Likely very easy for you experts.
  7. Thank you all for the information. I now understand the Cadillac a little better. Next it's on to figuring out why the Lincoln wont run. ☹️
  8. I have a 1929 Cad and I went through a steep learning curve. As originally designed the fuel delivery system is a vacuum tank. Engine vacuum sucks fuel into a reservoir tank (for storage) then the fuel is delivered to the carb by pure gravity feed. (Model T style) No pressure. (well it has the pressure of a drop of 6"-12". . . 1 pound? half a pound?) What I discovered is that it is almost impossible to get an electric pump to regulate down to such a low pressure. The line and fittings to the carb are a large diameter so there is FLOW, just no pressure. Low pressure (adequate volume) is what the Johnson carb was designed for. After that I climbed the mountain and repaired the vacuum tank. A story in itself, but I have been told that after you have one set up properly, they can work reliabily for decades. The electric pump is only for priming after long storage periods.
  9. Nope 😞 Surprised that I cant find a home for it. A local Edsel guy who buys anything available will take it but he has never put anything together and everything sits outside. For all the naysayers who are afraid of a little old car paperwork, It now has the California title (pink slip) and registration from 1971. Having these means that it can be resurrected in California with the original black plates for no additional fees. . I have also stabbed the transmission back in. (no converter) rebolted the cross member and attached the parking brake. This stabilized the engine. Its all ready to load and ship to a new home.
  10. FYI - Ed is generously working with me now to sort out my 29 Cad. He just verified they operation of my (Classic & Exotic) reproduced distributor and is now guiding me through the next steps of verifying everything in the Johnson carb. Thanks, Ed.
  11. Points and condenser ignition systems. Single point systems have a single condenser, however what I am seeing is that dual point systems also use a single condenser. . . . ? I know there are two types of dual point set ups. High performance where the dual points fire a single coil and spark plug. In this situation I guess a single condenser would be appropriate. Another system is on more ancient cars where there are two point sets and each fires half the cylinders. I have a 1929 Cadillac (V-8) where each point set fires just 4 cylinders through a single coil. I also have a 1926 Lincoln (V-8) with each point set firing 4 cylinders BUT it also has two coils. Each of these set ups seems to use just a single condenser. Considering the work that two points are doing (especially with two coils) shouldn't there be two condensers? Would a dual point (dual coil?) system need a 'larger' (single) condenser?
  12. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1938-Willys-pg01.jpg As paint technology has changed the old 'receipies' dont work any longer. I have ordered from these folks before and been very satisfied.
  13. m-mman

    ID Please

    Something about a 'Whippet' man getting a divorce that calls for its own comment, but I cant think of any without becoming crude. Could this 5 year old car be his half of the settlement? He seems to have been 'bumped off' on the right side. . . . .
  14. Original car, never taken apart. Rev it up to get it to go into gear? Has original internal seals? Makes noise going into gear? Those are ALL the symptoms I had in my Lincoln. . . . . I really think that the internal seals have hardened and you are due for a complete rebuild of your transmission. 😪
  15. You rebuilt the engine, tell us about the history of the transmission. My 1959 Lincoln sat for many years while I restored it. When I finally started it and began driving it again, the trans shifted hard, then late, then not at all. (got progressively worse over 2-3 months) Tried all the typical stuff, nothing worked. Because it quit moving completely, I eventually had it rebuilt. Turns out that the original seals & O-rings had hardened up but did not fail completely until after I started driving it. (heat cycles?) So, how old/original is your trans? If the fluid level is correct, a transmission will circulate and self bleed during periods of idling.
  16. Verify this, but I dont think a restored hydro-electric system should be using brake fluid. They did when they were new, but as discussed above having brake fluid (under pressure) in lines running all over your car is never a good idea. I have restored many convertible top systems from the late 50s into the 60s and they were ORIGINALLY filled with brake fluid. After I remove the pump and clean out the system I have always refilled them with auto trans fluid. It has good hydraulic properties and if/when it spills or leaks, it makes a yucky mess, BUT there is no damage to paint or other things. (like upholstery) The industry switched to factory fill ATF in the mid 60s. I have been reading about your work on the 1952 series 75 and if you have not yet discovered restoring the hydro-electric system IS A VERY BIG PROJECT. If you really want it to function reliability, there is no easy way, there are no shortcuts. Remove, rebuild, reseal the pump. REPLACE all the flex lines, check all the metal lines, FLUSH EVERYTHING (working with the window cylinders/springs and be difficult and dangerous) Then refill it with something besides brake fluid. As for your questions about the wires. Before about 1955 or so everybody used 'cloth' insulation. It was originally actual cotton(?) fibers woven over the metal strands. The fabric was then sprayed with a lacquer covering. It gave good insulation when new BUT it was very susceptible to aging. The lacquer failed and the cotton rotted away leaving dangerous electrical shorts everywhere. An old 1940s-50s car in the 60s was just a fire waiting to happen. The industry switched to plastic insulation which has stood the test of time and I have late 50s cars with original plastic insulation that is still fine. Again to really fix a cloth wired car it needs to be completely rewired. You can do it yourself one strand at a time OR vendors like Rhode Island wiring sell entire new harnesses. Not cheap but if you consider the time you will spend doing it one wire at a time it becomes easier to bear. Good luck with your project.
  17. These were commonly identified in production records as "CKD" - Crated Knocked Down. Tires and other parts removed for both easier shipping and allowing for use of local labor in reassembly to appease local government regulations.
  18. It isnt a Full Classic or an open car. https://www.uship.com/
  19. "First Aid Car". . . . . Why would you use a sedan to dispense 'first aid'? It doesn't look like it has an ambulance body, so I am thinking that it is a Sedanbulance. Removable post on the passenger side, single bucket seat up front for the driver, and a gurney that fits into the space between the rear seat and the dash. I tried expanding the image to see if the end of a gurney can be seen popping up at the back seat, but no luck.
  20. Perhaps somebody could elaborate on this concept a little. Yes I am in California and Yes I have seen cars on ebay that were "geographically handicapped". Buy the car at the price offered, then add shipping, and you are quite underwater before you ever turn a wrench. Being in CA the idea of starting with a car that has any rust is irresponsible. Even if the numbers made sense I dont think there are any body men in CA with rust repair skills and experience that could actually perform some of the resurrections that I have seen documented on Eastern cars. BUT I have also seen more than a few Easterners spend wayyyyyy more on rust repair than they would ever spend on shipping a western car to the Right hand side of the country. I have moved a few cars a long distance and open vs closed and scheduled vs unscheduled is only like $1000 - $2000(?) What do rust repair and patch panels cost? Way more than that I would assume. Why dont more Easterners come out west to buy? I would like to get this car into a forever home for $1000. OK, then, lets say you step up and spend the full $2000 to ship it . . . . Is an iconic 50s car (that yes, does need all the mechanical repairs that any long parked car needs) not worth $3000??? If I moved it in an Easterly direction, I would have fuel and time involved and it would be in a car corral at $3000. Would it be worth $3000 if it were 50 miles from home? What am I missing?
  21. Sadly it has yet to find a home in North America. I know that shipping is expensive. Is anyone interested in giving it a home at $1000 ?
  22. Absolutely. What we are saying having some kind of pedal just to get it out of the garage and into a place where you have room is a fine place to start. It is almost impossible to repair brakes in a tight narrow garage. You need 3-5 feet on the side to be able to work down there. What we have all seen are novice collectors who think that having a solid pedal is ALL you need and then they go on to other things and eventually have a serious failure months later when they thought that everything was already fixed. FYI - Removing (stuck) wheels and drums is different from having stuck wheel cylinders. When you get there, tell us what you are facing and we will tell you more. One step at a time, do things properly and don't rush. Despite what they show on TV car repair is NOT a timed event and don't set hard deadlines for yourself. 😉
  23. Hydraulic brake systems are full of rubber (cups, seals, hoses) and used or not, the rubber rots from just sitting. Adding fluid and bleeding is a good start to make the car move initially but if it is expected to actually function (driven any distance) the entire system needs to be overhauled. Replace/repair all wheel cylinders (inspect for rust & stuck pistons). Replace all hoses (most cars have 3) They plug up on the inside while still looking good on the outside. Replace/Rebuild the master cylinder with new seals. Remove all the old fluid and replace with new. Certainly inspect-repair everything else. However, I have rarely had to replace the shoes on an old parked car. The springs last forever. But unless you completely repair the hydraulic system it WILL FAIL! At the worst time! Brakes are the one system that you never want to fail.