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m-mman

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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. Because outside of serious car people there is a belief that a car is unsafe and inoperative unless it has; Alternator, dual master cylinder, Edlebrock carburetor, incorrect air cleaner, aluminum radiator, pointless ignition and 12 volt system. Anything less and they think that it can’t be licensed.
  2. You mean the front clip…….? Then remember that you have to change the headlight switch. 😉 (vacuum operated) Easier to just find a 1970 XL. Same body, hidden lights. For 1970 buckets and floor shift were optional on the XL.
  3. Three on the tree WAS something better! The old transmission control was three on the floor. That took up valuable real estate in the front in an era when it was common to sit three across up front. Column shift had only begun at Ford in 1940, deduct the war years and it was only 4-5 model years old. Still seen as modern and up to date. Then, what else could it have been. GM had Hydramatic but they weren’t sharing it yet. Buick barely had Dynaflow and Packard barely had Ultramatic at this time (46-48) Ford wouldn’t have any automatic until 1951. Lincoln got the Hydramatic into their all new 1949 models. As you learn about cars remember that ALL the 1946-1948 cars were a struggle to just convert the factories back to civilian production and keep going through a blizzard of strikes and materiel shortages. The first postwar cars were just an effort to make something-anything and the public didn’t care they just wanted a NEW CAR.
  4. Was the Packard parked close enough to the Lincoln that they could be conspiring against you?
  5. When you buy new battery cables you are not asked whether your car is 6 volt or 12 volt. Cables are not marked for their voltage. Cables are identified by their size, their diameter, the amount of copper contained per length of wire. Many questions about hard starting are posted here and a common problem is to find “12 volt” cables on a 6 volt car. 12 volt cars use smaller cables and can’t carry the amps needed by a 6 volt car. The cable gets hot because it is being asked to carry too big a load. It is confusing because cables are not marked “12 volt” or “6 volt” but maybe they should be? But what about fuses? Those glass fuses that are ubiquitous on our vehicles. The books and manuals specify the proper fuse in an Ampere rating. ("Install a 10 amp fuse") I recently replaced a blown fuse on an Overdrive relay. I believe it was specified as a 20 amp fuse. Digging into my boxes of fuses I found one of the correct length and it was stamped 20 amps BUT it also said 32 volt(?) I began wondering, what is the actual ampere rating for this fuse? It is identified as a 32 volt fuse then does that ampere rating change if used in a 12 volt system? If it is a 32v x 20 amp fuse, then should it not blow at 640 watts(?) (V x A=watts) If installed in a 12 volt system then a 640 watt fuse should blow at 53 amps(!) (watts/volts = amps) Wow, this seems like putting a penny in the fuse box. I have a fuse marked 32v x 15a that seems like it would not interrupt the circuit until it exceeded 40 amps I have a 250v x 10a fuse that mathematically should offer 208 amps of “protection” at 12 volts. Doesn’t seem like much protection to me. I never considered the voltage listed on a fuse before. Now that I am thinking about it there must be something about it that I am missing. If it doesn't matter, then Why is a voltage listed on a glass fuse Could fuse ratings somehow be exempt from the laws of electricity?
  6. Yes folks. Those who don’t know, a King Midget uses a single cylinder engine driving a single rear wheel! (No differential needed). It has a belt drive centrifugal clutch. Operational and top speed put it in the Model T class. Forget about “legal” In reality it’s barely a car.
  7. Body and paint quality is all about preparation. Remove the trim (don’t just mask) remove dents certainly but then strip, prime, seal and sand, sand, sand. Apply the color and finish coats then reattach the trim. All this takes TIME and time is money. This is not the type of work a production shop does no matter what “package” you select. Anything less is a compromise. Anything less will be something less. When it comes to painting if you do less than a complete job you will hear about it at every car event you attend. Car people will tolerate a flawed original paint but very critical of any repair work. All the above is great for a high value car, but what about cars that really don’t need a high quality painting? Then you do it yourself. My 1966 Mercury Parklane convertible. Neat car BUT it had a mediocre color change respray in the early 80s then front end damage in the 90s. I stripped it myself, swapped out the front clip. I took it to quality (custom) shops and got estimates for $20,000-$25,000!! Ok, but the finished car would never be worth that. I took it to MAACO. An old guy ran the place. Quoted me $6000 for one of their “packages”. (Remember the car was already stripped) I said let’s make it $7000 in case you need to do some extra sanding. He had never had anyone raise his estimate before. He asked if I was planning to keep the car? Or was I doing it for resale? When I told him I was keeping it, he smiled and I knew that he would do the job with pride and not do all the short cuts. In the end, it is not a $25,000 repaint. I can find flaws but at shows I don’t get the “Did you paint it with a brush?” Comments. It’s very difficult to repaint a lower value car, but that’s how I did it. Sorry for the upside down pictures. But iPhones are designed for right handed people. If you take a landscape picture left handed it saves the picture upside down. ☹️
  8. The trailer screams flipper and he likely paid $5000-$7000. The market price. Doubling your investment is the target sales price for these entrepreneurs.
  9. It has a lot going for it. Color, options, etc. However I don’t think the seller appreciates how much time, money and effort a recommissioning takes. After all it WAS 100% functional the last time they saw it so how bad could it be now? A basic full wake up is at least $2000 in parts. At least 80 hours IF nothing is seriously wrong. Fixing all the accessories is many more hours. A new top (the old one has just a few foldings left in it) is at least $1000, probably more like $2000. At $19k I would expect a running sorted car. What’s it worth in this condition? $7k to $10 and I would call. But sellers rarely accept 50% off their initial asking price. Instead they keep listing and hoping for months, sometimes years.
  10. Conservative value type buyers who pay cash and save their possessions for future use. The play the long game. Convertible buyers are status seeking fashion conscious buyers who live for the moment, buy on time (or lease) and plan to dispose of their car even before they buy it. (Every 2 year buyers) Their rapidly depreciating car (who wants a 2 year old red convertible?) hits the used market and is quickly used up and junked.
  11. Ahhh yes those ancient ignition systems aren’t always that easy. Like many multi-cylinder systems the H-V12 uses two six cylinder systems that share a single coil. Yup, one set of points operate 6 of the twelve cylinders and the other set works the other six. The vacuum advance doesn’t pull something to advance the spark, it is a vacuum brake that releases allowing the centrifugal advance to happen. All this in a distributor that is inaccessible when installed. No surprise that Pertronix doesn’t have a drop in “upgrade”. For this car the Lincoln Zephyr Owners Club is your friend. Certainly join it and begin networking, but until then go to their website www.LZOC.org. Then go to the technical and referral page that lists the many suppliers and technical experts. One or two calls will direct you to the person who has the Ford distributor machine and can properly set up your unit.
  12. 1. Identification- have you ever tried posting an ancient or orphan car on Facebook? You are forced into selecting the title from the few that are available. You cannot list a car under any title you want. Facebook, Craigslist, etc are not populated by car experts. They are 99% people who have no idea what their car is, or what price it will take to get it sold. I fully expect poor descriptions and high asking prices. If you want a good description and market prices, may I suggest a collector auction company. BTW - they will provide you with a title. 2. while you may see this as a heap, it is actually very restorable. These Hudson trucks are very popular. Being a truck they, are easier to fix than the passenger cars. Sad to say that many are not restored stock, they are very attractive to rodders. AND since the Hudson club has never done judging many are “Hudson rodded” by Hudson people. Later Hornet motors etc. 3. This Not Mine forum IS the place to post cars that are being offered in other sites that someone might not search or review often (or ever). There are no restrictions here as to price or condition. There have been multimillion dollar cars posted and there have been parts cars posted. There have been many cars that I have absolutely no interest in. (For whatever reason). In those cases I either don’t click or move on. I have been surprised at how much I have learned in the discussion that develops after a posting, so sometimes just read the comments from the experts. The searching and reposting takes a lot of time and effort. I have posted a few. I am grateful to the regulars who do find the cars and PROPERLY post the links, the text and the photos. When I have posted an ad takes me about 10 minutes to click, copy, save and format an AACA post. I extend my thanks to those people who make the effort to do this. None of them are profiting from this effort. I will never complain about what they post (again if I don’t like it, I move on) It would be wonderful if every “not mine” listing was for cars that excited me at prices and locations that made me want to investigate and purchase, but this is not realistic. I only follow a few forums on this board and this is one that I look at daily. and Happy New Year to everyone.
  13. Nope, not an easy repair. A speedometer works by spinning magnets around a steel drum. The magnets are spun by the cable, the faster they spin the greater the magnetic field that moves the drum that is attached to the needle. The magnets and the drum never touch. The cable doesn’t make noise. BUT the bearings (aka Jewels) that position the spinning magnets does make noise. (When they are worn out. They aren’t designed to be lubed, they last “the life of the car”). Most likely your spinning magnets touched the drum, slamming it into the stop at 100 mph. Speedometer work is similar to jewelry and watch repair. Unless you have the tools and skill set it is best to let an expert repair it. Look up speedometer repair in your area. Big trucks need this service. Otherwise I recommend Bobs speedometer repair. He does old cars. He is not cheap, but his quality is outstanding.
  14. While the VIN is for a 4bbl engine, there is currently a 2bbl manifold and what looks like a mid-late 60s carburetor on it. was the engine changed or just the manifold? Still a good starting point for a 1960.
  15. Remember the quiz is to reinforce Mopar design features and concepts to Mopar mechanics working solely on Chrysler vehicles…….
  16. Please explain further. 1. the speedometer was working fine? 2. You removed the cable from the back, because? 3. You wanted to lube the cable? 4. You reinserted the cable into the housing (outer cable)? 5. You insured that the cable was fully seated into the outer “cable” and transmission? 6. You reconnected the cable to the speedometer? 7. The needle immediately moved to the 100+ mark when connecting the cable? 8. The needle immediately moved to below zero when connecting the cable? 9. You connected the cable to the speedometer, drove as fast as possible and the needle is stuck at 100+? 10. You reconnected the cable to the speedometer drove at a slow speed and the needle was bouncing radically eventually becoming stuck at either zero or 100+? Details are critical to offer troubleshooting advice.
  17. Unsure about the size, but in the late 50s-60s Ford used a similar cam type bolt that connected the brake pedal to the master cylinder rod. It could make small adjustments to the brake pedal height. I think the idea was to match the brake and clutch pedals.
  18. Not sure what the license plate hobby would call it, but it’s use (if the Pasadena is in California) was to show that landscape and construction companies had paid the necessary fees to work within the city limits. So it would only have been attached to trucks.
  19. Oh, just discovered in rereading. The meter I am using is 2 wire. One to coil and one to ground.
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