m-mman

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Everything posted by m-mman

  1. Yes, but the first thing that comes to mind (especially in a car that has been sitting) is dirty cables and connections. The metal on the battery post and the metal inside the cable should be bright and shinny. If it has a dull gray color scrape it with a knife/wire brush until both surfaces are clean. If it has replacement clamp on type battery terminal ends, these too must be disassembled and brushed until clean and shinny. (or replaced) The positive cable goes down to the starter and (if sitting) it too might have corrosion that needs cleaning. Start cleaning first.
  2. Welcome to the old car hobby. What the above folks were attempting to say is that an engine in not 'one piece'. It is composed of many, many pieces that ALL must work and fit together to function properly. You stated that your engine has just 300 miles on it. We have all assumed that means that EVERYTHING is all brand new. New, bearings, rings, valves, BUT also the crank was turned and the block was cleaned and all the oil passages were cleaned out. (etc, etc, etc) Your throttle stuck and now you are saying that 'one thing' is bad (the rod bearing) What we are saying is that NO, in an engine it is never just 'one thing'. If ONE rod went bad, you MUST assume that ALL the rods also have a problem. Maybe 'just one' is knocking, but ALL must be removed and examined and each crank journal MUST be reevaluated for scoring or other damage. A new engine running wide open for a short time (15-30 seconds) that was correctly built (properly machined, properly sized parts installed) should NOT suffer bearing failure. There MUST be other causes for the failure (loss of oil?) and quite likely other damage (spun bearings) Sometimes when a car fails there is one bad part that can be replaced. When an engine 'fails' you MUST look at everything inside.
  3. FYI - KM Lifestyle, strange name but they do excellent work. They restored the sender on my 29 Cad (old frozen pot metal) and it came back beautiful. Certainly not cheap, but they do quality work. Quick turnaround.
  4. The 'D9A' prefix is for a 1979 Ford product. The "A" indicates full size but might fit others too.
  5. I have two beds for for a 1968 to 1972 Ford truck. Clean, straight, no rust. One mounted (and titled) as a trailer. I want the room $350 each or $600 for both. Los Angeles CA area.
  6. Ah Ha! Thank you. I have not heard of these individuals before, but in most cases the person(s) is as famous as the museum. (especially within the car hobby) Why isn't there more information about them? Or where might I go to learn more?
  7. Maybe in the days before dipsticks (Model T?) it meant that they would crawl under and open the petcocks? But many cars had the 'floats and gauges' and not even a dipstick . . . These are pictures of business that were in the middle of nowhere and catered to people who were just passing through. Are there images of providing crankcase service to residents who would return to your business again? The San Bernardino Auto Camp bragged that they had running water and hot & cold showers(!) Deluxe indeed!
  8. Way back when there was a Museum in Cucamonga, California called "Kings of the Road" I have seen many postcards and other souvenirs from them but I don't know the whole story. They seem to have had some really significant cars (Duesenberg, Tucker) but I can find little actual facts about them. It was an original Route 66 attraction(!) but is never discussed or mentioned in Route 66 retrospectives. It seems to date from the time of James Melton and Henry Austin Clark and I suspect that it played a part in the history of the car collector hobby but it doesn't seem to have had the impact of the Long Island Auto Museum. Does anybody here know: Who was behind it? The years it operated? Why it closed? Stories of your visits there? etc???
  9. Two old postcards showing businesses that are offering free 'crankcase service' to travelers. What exactly are they offering? I cant imagine that they are going to change the oil for free (or top it off) and it seems unlikely that they would remove or clean a pan for free. Perhaps this is just an old expression for 'checking the oil' level?
  10. Seems correct, what size? Ford/Merc went to 14" for 1957 (back to 15" for 1965) The hubcap snaps OVER the 4 lugs so it is passenger car. Trucks up to 65(?) had hubcaps that snapped inside the lugs. It has 'vent slots' where the inner part is riveted to the actual rim so it is for drum brakes not disc. (pre 1966)
  11. Excellent! I have a 41 Continental so I cant help with a picture, but The LZOC folks are great especially the parts suppliers. They have been around a long time and are good sound sources.
  12. If you have not yet done so join these folks. Lots of good information https://www.lzoc.org/ I dont have a picture, but it should be clarified that you are asking about a Lincoln 12 ( postwar Zephyr) and not a Continental . . .
  13. To add to the concluding stories, my 59 Lincoln transmission needed a complete rebuild. The rebuilder said all the rubber rings & seals were as hard as metal and had to be picked and scraped out. It all works fine now. So related to the original thread, the additive MIGHT work, BUT . . . the trans in question needs to have rubber internal seals that are still able to be softened up and it wont fix missing springs or incorrectly installed valves.
  14. A Latino family in Los Angeles with their car during the 1920s (maybe early 30s?) that they likely purchased used. The damaged fender and bent rim tell a story of a hard life. Seeing a visor on a converted 'open' car to make it look more like a sedan is interesting.
  15. FYI - brake return springs are tested two ways. 1. hold a removed spring up to the light. You should not be able to see light between the coils. The coils should be touching firmly. 2. drop it on the floor. A good spring will give off a dull thud. A bad spring will give off a 'ringing' sound. Again this happens when it is stretched and the coils dont touch. I too agree that a non-return problem is almost always hydraulic and not mechanical.
  16. They are of course tune up & ignition parts that were packaged to sell at mass merchandisers (Sears, K-mart) Brand new, they are of course still very functional and nice to have. As you can see they fit a wide range of GM based vehicles. Value? The problem is that they still make all these items and can be readily obtained from the typical sources. To sell them you would have to undercut the price of a brand new one. I see these types of items at swap meets regularly. They made thousands of them and every 'dad' maintaining their daily driver back then bought extras and hung them up in the garage. Where they stayed when the car was eventually sold, so they commonly exist today. GM parts are much more common than FoMoCo versions. Sometimes the sellers want as much (or more) for them than you would pay to buy a sealed package from Rock Auto. The points sets have a variable appeal as many people have gone to electronic conversions and those who have not dont appreciate the importance of replacing them in making a car run well. When the seller has them priced right ($1-$3 each) I pick them up and hang them in my garage for those times that I might do a tune up. I agree, gift them a younger collector and maybe even teach them the importance of point maintenance. I only wish ignition parts for 20s & 30s cars were so common and cheap.
  17. Question was asked at the the museum the other day and I could not find a definitive answer. On early brass cars with side curtains and typically curtain type windshields, what exactly was the transparent part made from? Rodgers and Hammerstein popularized the idea of "isenglass curtains that could be rolled right down" on their musical surrey, and pegged it to 1906(?) which would have been of the era. Web searches have described Sturgeon (fish) bladders and mica being used, but that doesnt seem possible for a large window area. Celluloid seems more possible (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celluloid) since it did make for a transparent movie film, but it was flammable. <yikes> I think pre-1920 would be too soon for a petrochemical type of vinyl but I dont know. What were the transparent parts of the earliest side curtains and windshields actually made from? is there any documentation for that answer. Thanks
  18. Interesting but you cannot make a 'fake' 1960 Edsel wagon. They only made a little less that 3000 1960 Edsels in all body styles. They made only about 275 1960 Edsels wagons in total. While a 1960 Edsel sedan front clip can be bolted onto a 1960 Ford and the different dashboard and interior trim items can be physically swapped, 1960 Edsel wagons have unique tail trim. The taillight bezels and lenses are smaller than the sedan and there is a huge piece of wagon only diecast trim that connects them. There are no NOS or reproduced trim items. The pieces needed to make a 1960 Edsel wagon, come only from a 1960 Edsel wagon. So, if you have a rusty, beat up, Edsel and you moved the trim and other pieces to a more restorable Ford wagon you have essentially restored the Edsel using the Ford, you have not made a 'fake' Edsel. It is POSSIBLE to move the 1960 Edsel trim from a 2 door sedan to a Ford convertible, (and it might LOOK like an Edsel) but it can never be a 'real' 1960 Edsel as there are subtle details that an EDSEL expert could easily detect to identify the change in body style. Since 1960 Edsel convertibles are big dollar cars any potential buyer would be foolish to not have the car of interest authenticated.
  19. California does and has had just too many cars to ever try to keep track of. California registration and ownership information has been routinely destroyed/deleted after 8-10 years of non-registration. Because of computer storage since the 21st century this may not be completely true, but it is certainly true going back into the collector car years.
  20. I will assume that the rebuilt booster is functioning properly, and that you have a quality vacuum source Is the rubber line plugged? or collapsing? the engine should run very rough and likely stall when it is removed from the booster. If the pedal does not (or has trouble) returning, check the pivot for the pedal. (way up under the dash) It might be stuck/sluggish. Look under the dash find where the booster rod connects to the pedal and disconnect it. The (now free) pedal should swing as easily as a child in a park. If it does not, there is a BIG pivot pin for the brake pedal that can be slid/pushed out after removing whatever retainer clip it has. (spring clip? cotter pin?) NOTE: sometimes the pivot pin is part of the pedal assembly and you slide the entire pedal to the side to remove. There are likely nylon bushings on the pin/shaft and in the support bracket that is holding up the pedal. I have had the nylon bushings stick to either the pin/rod and/or the support bracket. Clean everything up and lubricate the pivots. (I have used a light lubriplate type grease) and reassemble. Again the pedal should swing freely. I think your Buick brake light switch is hydraulic and on the master cylinder, but sometimes the switch is mechanical connected to this linkage. If so, then of course it should not be binding either. The other problem that can be checked is the adjustment of the intake/compensating ports. Remove cover from master cylinder. Look into it as someone pushes the pedal. As the system is pressurized you should see a small 'squirt' (or stream of bubbles) in the fluid coming from the smaller of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. Release the brakes and every time the pedal is pressed you should see this little squirt. (Note: if you slam the pedal hard it should be a big splash - maybe splash in your face - that can make a mess -but then you know it is functioning) If you are not seeing this squirt (bubbles?) consistently, then unbolt the master from the booster and shorten the rod that leads from the booster into the master. (its screw adjustable and it should not take more than a full turn. (maybe even a half turn) reattach the master and again check for the splash with each pedal push.
  21. Nice car and good luck to you in your sale. As a comparison, real estate agents will tell you that (except in very hot markets) houses are rarely sold before being on the market for typically 30 days. 60 to 90 day offerings are not unexpected. While an old car is not as expensive as a house,it does represent a significant investment (both money and space) and quick deals are not typical.
  22. Recap: So you DID have a pedal (albeit low) and then you pushed REAL HARD, and the pedal then (slowly?) fell to the floor? (with no leaks seen under the car) If the above conditions are true then the primary cup in the master cylinder is bad (leaking internally) and allowing the MC piston the pass through the fluid and not compress it. Remove and disassemble the master cylinder and you will likely find the cup to be cut or torn. Replace the rubber parts in the master cylinder.
  23. OP do not get confused. The solenoid in the image above is upside down from the orientation it would have when installed.
  24. GM starters have three connections on the top solenoid part. 1. Battery cable connecting to BIG terminal in the middle. There are also other much smaller wires connected here that bring power into the car that need energy. 2. A little connection that is energized ONLY when the solenoid has engaged the flywheel. This wire brings full 12v power to the coil The dash switch sends a resisted (less than 12v) to the points/coil when it is is the run position and no power to the coil when in the crank position. So this powers the spark when cranking. 3. A little connection that receives 12v from the dash switch when it is in the crank position. Apply 12v here and the power goes thru the winding's on the solenoid, magnetizing the 'slug' inside the solenoid which pulls the starter pinion gear into the flywheel. When the solenoid slug has hit the end of travel it makes the connection between the battery cable and the starter motor. NOTE: There is also a 4th connection on the solenoid. It is a thick piece of copper that comes out of the starter motor and bolts to the solenoid. This connection is bolted in place when the starter and solenoid are joined before installation and not touched after installation. Assumption: You are using a jumper wire to send 12v to the little solenoid connection which activates the starter and it runs. This means that the starter assembly works (and it's associated wires) Now get out your test light. Test: When you turn the key inside does it send 12v to this same wire? (likely not because if it did you would not be having a problem) Trouble shooting goal: Why isn't the key sending 12v to the starter? Suggestions of things to check: Is 12v getting inside to the key? Are the plugs on the firewall clean and solid? How about the wires from the firewall behind the dash up to the key? Is the key sending 12v to the terminal on the back of the switch when it is turned to the start/crank position? Key switches can fall apart inside and look OK on the outside. FYI - The power to the starter, from the key, is routed thru the neutral safety switch. Is the neutral switch passing along the 12v from the key to the starter? check both sides of the neutral switch. This should get you started. Good luck.
  25. The government wants to see a tamper proof number that can be used to identify a specific vehicle and used to match with supporting documentation to establish ownership. Originality aside (steel plate? brass plate? riveted? welded?) if you can not get the correct one, you can use a set of stamps and hammer the numbers (numbers that match your title and hopefully correctly describe the car - year, model etc.) into the metal on the frame. Something permanent is really all a good verifier wants to see.