m-mman

Review the diagram. Power from the relay is brought to the; steering wheel, turn signal switch, horn ring looking for a ground. This 12 volt (looking for a ground) is an extension of the coil in the relay. Action: 12 volts through the relay coil, that when grounded at the horn ring pulls the relay switch together and send power to the horns. If you feel that the relay is bad, they aren’t that expensive to replace. Again you can use the ohm meter to test the connection between the steering wheel horn button and the plug at the relay

The first couple of hundred Ts in 1908 had water pumps. (So the design and parts existed). In Henry’s pursuit of fewer parts the rest of the T production was thermosyphon only. In a world where every car has a water pump, it is difficult to believe that a T could do without one, but it did! Henry’s simplicity comes through. But for the thermosyphon to succeed the system (radiator mostly) does have to be correct and clean. Most T people view a water pump like 50s & 60s people view electric fans in front of a radiator. (What’s wrong? Why did the owner do that?).

The only problem with an electric pump on an ancient carburetor is that the electric pump can easily overpower the needle-seat and float leading to a dangerous fuel leak situation. The original “fuel pump” was a vacuum tank that sent fuel to the carburetor by gravity. The pressure was minuscule. 1/2 psi? Even with pressure reducers it is difficult to get the pressure that low. It looks like a wonderful car, fix the vacuum tank (not that difficult) move the electric pump to the rear to use to prime the vacuum tank and you are ready to enjoy.

Forget the color code. The faded colors on the original 60 year old plastic is not going to look as described in the diagrams. “There are wires that are disconnected and cut off” …..? It is easy to tell yourself that these don’t matter. But they do matter! The wires (original?) were put there for a reason. You can’t have wires that are cut or disconnected and NOT have issues somewhere. They need to be fixed. Repairing-restoring electrical systems is a PITA. It takes gobs of time and it wracks your brain. But you can succeed IF you are meticulous and detailed and logical and never expect to “cut to the chase” or a quick ending. Start at the steering wheel. Find the button that is the horn wire. Follow and trace the wire physically from the button to the connector (AKA bunch of wires) exiting the steering column. Does the wire look cut? Crushed? Is the electrical tape that holds the wire set together damaged anywhere? Can you push/pull the wires in and out of the tube/tunnel that they live in within the steering column? (They might only move 1/2 to one inch) Next take your ohm meter to check the connectivity of the horn wire in the steering column. You know the correct wire at the top button, disconnect and check for continuity of perhaps each of the steering column wires until you find which one IS the horn wire. Again the colors are probably not going to look as the book describes. If you can’t prove continuity of the wire from the turn signal switch to the wire as it leaves the steering column then your break is in the column. Note you really don’t want to remove the wires from the steering column and replace the turn signal switch. It is not easy. Similarity you DO NOT (cannot?) run an additional wire through the steering column. If your ohm meter shows that the horn wire in the column is good (as I think it will) Then continue physically following and touching and looking at the wires that are/were plugged into the column. Yes you will be crawling under the dash. Yes it is an uncomfortable job that requires physical contortions of your hands, arms and upper body. But you have to look for damage anywhere along the harness. When & if you come to a connector you separate it and use your ohm meter to verify that that wire is not broken and can transmit electricity. The interior harness will end at the firewall. Now you find the connector under the hood and again physically search for damage or breaks. Again using your ohm meter to discover where the (ohm meter) testing electricity stops. Then you should know where the wire is broken and make a repair. Electrical troubleshooting only happens through you investing the hours (sometimes many hours) or you pay someone else for their hours. There are no shortcuts.

Wow! What a lot of effort to put into a car and effectively be exactly where you started. A car that needs most everything done to it including redoing the quick repairs that the seller has done. New fuel tank, but you didn’t do a full brake job so that it would safely drive? And the booster/master is not correct but one of those universal jobs that people use to add a dual setup? Note this car was originally equipped with a dual master cylinder, you could have saved money by buying a correct replacement master cylinder from Rock Auto. A base sedan A 1965 steering wheel The engine doesn’t look rebuilt but rather replaced with another year. Rarely does a 100 point restoration return the money spent on it. I don’t think that even the minimal amount the seller has spent on this vehicle will be returned either.

You are confused. The horn does not get power from the fuse box. Or not from the fuses anyway. Horn power comes directly from the battery. Effectively it COULD be connected to the positive post but since this would get in the way and corrode over time, it is instead connected to the starter solenoid. Coincidentally the same place the other end of the battery cable is connected. (Which might be in the 60 Lincoln “power box”) The horn wire then goes to the horn relay. The relay effectively sends the power to both the horn themselves and it sends power up the steering column to the turn signal switch that supports the button that connects to the horn ring. Step 1. Do you have power at one of the slots in the connector that slides onto the relay? This should be battery power. Step 2. If you have power there, plug it back in and see if you have 12 volt power at the little wire and button that exists behind the steering wheel. Yes you will need to remove the steering wheel. Step 3. With the wire connector plugged into the relay AND 12 volts at the button behind the steering wheel, you can use a jumper wire to ground that 12 volts and the relay should close and the horns should sound. Circuit diagram below:

Hi Gary, nobody will see or comment on your question when in is posted under a Buick crankshaft question. Go to the top of the page and select “start new topic”. Be sure to include 1929 Graham clutch in the title.

Think about it this way. Only since the mid to late 60s did leather become “luxury”. Before that leather was “utility”. You put leather in an open car because it held up against the elements, not because it was luxurious or fashionable. Open cars (pre-war) were typically cheaper than the top line sedans. The top line closed cars were the objects of desire. A top line closed car was what a moneyed person bought. Cloth is much more comfortable as an interior trim than leather. Cloth is warm in winter and cool in summer. But it is not as durable as the utilitarian leather. Look at the most expensive pre-war cars (limousines and town cars) and you’ll see the owner sits on cloth and the employee (chauffeur) sits on leather. Vinyl is/was cheaper than leather so it was used in trucks and those Dodge business sedans which were offering maximum utility for the minimum price. Yes this Buick roadster seems to have used the hide of the Nauga (vinyl) for the restoration. Can’t fault the owner. A genuine leather interior typically runs in the $10,000 range. You buy the hides individually (estimating your needs and you always buy more than you need) but then you find a trimmer who is skilled at working with genuine leather. Cutting and sewing leather is very different than working with cloth. (If you make a mistake with vinyl you can throw it away and start over). These trimmers are fewer in number and of course charge more. So this Buick roadster, if it had a leather interior, would you pay $10,000 more for it? At $17,000 we agree that it’s a good value. At $27,000 I don’t think it would get those comments.

Remember that the seller might take the $50million and use it for something useful and productive….

Other states may be “First in Flight” or “First in Freedom” California was first in environmental law. We predated the federal EPA! This is why California is legally allowed to set higher standards than the 49 other states and the feds have to accept them. This is why when the CA/49 state emission values were standardized, the EPA let CA lead and adopted our values. . .

Why I wouldn’t even consider it? Any 1975 and newer car in California requires an every other year smog test. There’s no avoiding it. And it’s a sniffer test on a dynamometer! Missing some unobtainable vacuum valve? Automatic failure, no exemptions. Getting a title in California is easy, passing a smog test is nearly impossible.

Imagine a YouTube star with a “Will It Run?” theme getting hold of something like this. “Hi guys, welcome back. Today we are going to try to start this steam car. I have made tea by boiling water on the stove, so I don’t think it’ll be too hard. I’m not sure what all these valves do so I’ll just keep experimenting until we get it going down the road. How hard could it be? What could possibly go wrong? ”Be sure to like and subscribe…..” Safe if you know what you are doing, but I suspect that the number of steam car experts are decreasing each year.

Looks like it was an AACA winner at one point.

If personal safety is high on your list of automotive attributes you shouldn’t even be physically close to a steam car. A hot water high pressure boiler is a disaster waiting to happen. This is not something that you tinker around with. There’s a lot of valves and pipes and gauges that you need to fully understand. It would take the skill of a steam engineer to operate one.

A/C evaporator in the trunk, only thing under the hood is a hose maybe on the right inner fender. and a giant electric fan in front of the radiator. 🤨

While there’s no evidence of burning, I’m thinking about relapping the valves. It would give me some better views of that area. A subtle problem. The most difficult to uncover.

The head comes off easily enough (now). As a point of diagnostic information while the block check changed, there was NO water in the oil. I ran the Evaporust all summer (cleaned things up well, but it wasn’t too bad to begin with) and pulled the head originally (first time) because a leak of Evaporust developed in an area between the block & head. Really just a heavy seepage but it wasn’t coming out before months of rust abatement.

I have seen a few 1942 cars titled as 1943 or 1944. Outside of later inaccurate DMV clerking, they were impounded new 1942 production vehicles that were released by the ration board during the war for purchase. Technically making them a “new” 1943 car. This however isn’t that situation.

And the radiator construction doesn’t explain the block check fluid turning yellow….. ☹️ I’m beginning to to think that this is one of those Ed situations where it can be repaired but at how much time and money… ?

Well put. It goes from dead cold to operating temperature (1/2 on gauge) in 3-4 minutes. It goes to 3/4 to 7/8 climbing a hill (power on) then drops to 1/4 coasting down. Opening the heater valve will readily lower the temperature. Hudson’s heater core is almost the size of a radiator. Full recore copper radiator. The car is driveable, but with it running so close to overheating I don’t have any reserve for really strenuous situations. Remember the block check fluid turns yellow slowly. The symptoms all point to combustion getting into the cooling system. But I can’t see where.

No Hudson used an external water jacket. Mine is not rusted and I ran Evaporust all summer. The passages are very clean. These pictures are from several years ago when I started, but they show you the design.

There are a lot of Youtube videos of people trying to shove the feeler gauge under the straight edge. At a few thousandths of an inch I knew that wouldn't work. (YouTube experts. . . . some good, many are dangerous) The bottom edge is bare steel. The engine runs great, good compression. Running hot is the only issue. As expected the (steel) head was stuck and had to be removed with the persuasion of force. ONE stud came out during disassembly. The others are likely to require violence. To do that I can easily see down into the pit of engine removal and rebuilding. I hate to get into that.

The car is a 1942 Hudson 8. The problem is overheating and combustion gasses in the block test fluid. Remove head, resurface head, change gasket. Problem persists. Remove head again look for cracks and imperfections. None seen. Could the block be warped? Buy straight edge. I put the edge on the block and place a feeler gauge under it. In a few places the 0.0015" feeler gauge can be pulled and pushed under the edge. But the 0.003" feeler gauge cannot or it is obviously dragging. The 0.0015" feeler gauge was pinched or could not be slid under the straight edge when checking the newly resurfaced head. Am I using the straight edge and feeler gauge correctly?

This is scary cheap. . . . Could it be a scam?

Call the Hudson experts. It seems counterintuitive but the cork clutch with the proper fluid and properly sealed actually a good clutch https://www.wildrickrestorations.com/