Frank DuVal

Well, that is so the kids do not unscrew them and choke on the small parts! No problem for me, I have lots of those "security" bit and electronic servicing tool sets, ... cough....choke....😮

Isn't that the truth! I've used a Sunnen hone to open up two Corvair engines that were too tight with new pistons and a fresh bore job. It took two the three thousandths to get rid of the scoring, to a total of 4 thousandths, and they ran great after that. That's 4 thousandths total, not per side of piston. That's another gotcha, some piston's specs for clearance are per side of piston, i.e. a feeler gauge measurement, not total bore. So "they" see 1/2 to 1 thousandths and bore to 0.0005 total larger. Very tight!😮 🦃🦃🦃🦃🍲🍯🍠🥔🐖🍾

Well our family was under median... My first car (1973) was a '62 Biscayne. I paid $15 for it and drove it home. Hit in the rear, but I still drove it for several months before I picked up a trunk and rear bumper. Sold it a year later to move up to a '66 Biscayne station wagon.😃 Before I bought the '62 I had looked at a lot of $5 and $10 cars in the "Trading Post" a 25 ¢ newspaper version of Facebook Marketplace.😉 🦃🦃🦃🦃🐖🍠🥔🍲🍯🛠️

Happy Thanksgiving. The brake topic should have it's own thread.😉 Anyway... 🦃🦃🦃🦃🦃❄️🦃🐔🐔🦃🦃 🍲 🍠 🍲🥔🍠🫖🥔🦃🍯🦃🥔🍠🍲❄️🦃🍲🍇🫘🦃🚗🚗🚗🛬🛫🛩️🦃🛠️🍔🍾🍾🦃🦃🦃🦃🍠🥔🫘🍇🛩️🛫🛬🥔🍠🦃🍾🐖🦃🦃🦃🦃🦃🦃

Um, none? Oh, you said people, not electricians following the rule. 😉 First, turn off the power. If that is not an option, then suit up for the arc flash. Lots of tools and hands slip, not just slotted ones. BTW, combination head screws have been the norm for electrical goods here for many years. Some slotted/phillips but most now are slotted/square (Robertson, Scrulox) combinations. I can tell relative age of equipment by the screws involved. 🦃 🦃🍲🍲 In the wood construction industry they like square/phillips or Torx head screws. 🦃 🦃 🍲 🍠

The key part numbers are the clue. See the link I provided for the B&S catalog. A Google search for B&S part number 72738 brings up this catalog, and on page 8 I find this blank to be a groove 12, a double sided blank, with a round head. That explains the L and R boxes, as each side of the double sided blank get three cuts. Insert key into carriage from the left for three cuts, remove and insert from right for other three cuts. Blank part number 72740 is the same, but with an octagon head. How to get from this page to the Curtis model 14 settings would require the model 14 instructions, I think, or some experimenting. I do wish page 10 of that catalog link was clearer. Lots of blurry data that seems to be important. 😞

No one has reported a battery "just sitting there" in this thread. They were all either taking in (charging) or putting out current (starting vehicle), so current was flowing. ❗

Bitting is the cuts of the key. What the code refers to, like 424324.

Because there was no containing the force, it abated rather than rupturing. Rupturing requires containment for the containment vessel to rupture. Sparks happen because of internal joint failures. Sparks happen because of corroded battery terminals. These are all explosions, not simple gas build up. All flooded lead acid batteries have vents. Your chicken coop balloons had way more Hydrogen in them than could be gotten from electrically breaking down a few ounces of water.

Um, you mean what the pump lid says, use Type A...... Ha! Type A was replaced with Dexron, and it's suffixes (I II III) that are backwards compatible in transmissions. Not sure of compatibility with power steering systems, but I've used it with no issues in the past.😉 I did start using the clear fluid found in FLAPS* in GM cars 80s onward. 🦃 🦃🪡🚗 *Friendly Local Auto Parts Store

I won't tell you how a friend's brother used my hydraulic press one day to fit the king pins in his 63 Ford pickup front axle.....😱 Hey, that was 40 years ago and I watched in amazement, against my objections, that it actually worked....somewhat.... Passed state safety inspection, that's all he cared about!😃 🪡🏎️ 🦃

Motors that have permanent magnets will run backwards, as the magnetic field is the same as it was, now the armature magnetic field from the current running through it is opposite, so the shaft turns the other way. Motors that have electrically derived fields will run the same way, as now the field and the armature have the same relationship. Hence why starters operate fine on reversed polarity. 🐳 🐈‍⬛🚋

Post a picture if you do see a part number on it. There is a very common arm set that works on a lot of GM switches.

Do the green hoses still have the plastic restriction in the heater hose that cracks? I just remove them and put in a "coupling" i.e. piece of pipe. Not sure what the restriction does. ❓

These are explosions, not simple gas build up. How many psi of Hydrogen and Oxygen do you think a few ounces of water in several cubic inches of space can provide? Certainly not enough to remove the top of a battery case. I had to take a co-worker to the ER after they twisted a battery cable to make a better connection as another turned the ignition switch. Spark + Hydrogen + Oxygen = Bang! It certainly had not had time to make any gas pressure.

Joe, the B&S book from the late 30s, does it only have codes 8000 to 9499? Or are there codes for blanks other than B-10, B-11 aka Groove 15 in B&S speak? I found this nugget on the internet, the B&S 1939 catalog: https://aftermarket.strattec.com/application/files/7015/5181/2569/1939_Briggs___Stratton_Catalog.pdf No codes, but a wealth of part numbers for locks for many cars, NOT just GM. 😉 ❄️ 🐪

BCA is right here. Hosted on here I mean. Look down the forums page.😉 Barney is on there.😁

Maybe model 750 came with everything? I see the note in the Color and trim book that the 750 comes standard with the rear seat center armrest and cigarette lighter. Was that car built in the first week of January?

Hey! That's me you are talking about.... No comparison, besides, Bermuda has better weather!.😉 But we do have better weather than Philly....😁 Oddly, Glenn, you will have more traffic issues getting through Charlottesville than US29 from Warrenton to Gainesville and I-66 east for a few miles (unless you make the mistake of trying this between 4AM and 9AM going north with all the commuters.😱) I suggest US15 from where ever south of Charlottesville to Culpepper (nice two lane rural road), then US29 from there north. This is horse country until you get to Manassas. VA28 from US29/15 to Manassas (and then right to the hotel north of Manassas) looks nice rural two lane, but it is busy with all the people who moved to the "cheap seats" to afford a house.😧 Of course you do have to use VA28 north of I-66 to get to the hotel. Don't forget to allow time to visit the Udvar-Hazy museum. The What? The Smithsonian's Air and Apace Museum at Dulles airport. Well worth the trip. Enola Gay, Space Shuttle in the building. Yes, a very large building.😉

Yes. I was sold both by the Curtis salesman years ago. 😉 The 45 degree clipper is for classic GM (B&S, yes, Briggs and Stratton was the lock supplier to GM for years!) keys along with Ford and Chrysler. There is a wide head and narrow head version of the 45 degree, with the narrow used for GM 6 cut keys. The 47 degree cutter is for mostly foreign keys.

B-10 starts at code 8000 for all B&S locks I have seen from the late 40s onward to 1966. Curtis documents I have say from 1935 onward to 1966. In 1967 the 5 cut depth series started, along with the different keyways, even though the blanks looked like B-10 and B-11 ones. Then with the steering column lock of 1969 they came out with the large rectangle and oval keys from 1969 onward to the pellet days, etc. I would like to see some documentation on B-10/B-11 cuts for codes before 8000. Maybe those are the earlier blanks, B-1, etc. Note, the cuts listed on the model 15 cams are NOT the GM (B&S) depths for the 4 cut depth B-10/B-11. They are off 1 because of the change in 1967 to the 5 depth cut, and Curtis' carriage/cam set design. If GM (B&S) said a cut for a particular key was 342123, the Model 15 cam would be set to 453234. Confused? And, those earlier tumblers were coded by color, not number! See any GM early 60s shop manual. 😃 Just use Curtis code book for Curtis clippers and all is well. 😉 I have the model 15s, never used the model 14, but as Joe says, it works too. The model 15 comes in at least two different angle of cuts, one for GM/B&S and one for Ford/Chrysler. Google Curtis Clipper model 14 and a company will show up with some answers to your questions. They stock repair parts and books. OK, I did it for you, Hawley Lock Supply: https://www.hawleylocksupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HLS&Category_Code=C14

Got it! Not static setting while standing still, but dynamic setting through out suspension travel. Yep, tire needs to lean in at top to help corner, but remain level-ish while going straight down the road to minimize tire wear. Long/short a-arms were to help with this dynamic change in camber. I see this can help more than stock long/short arms.

Speedie Sleeve?

Improve camber? You want the tires leaning in at the top so the sidewalls wear more? Or going to autocross and tire wear is not important? You want the tire leaning out at the top so the car feels (drives) like it is on tippy toes? ❓ Changing caster will cause the steering wheel to return quicker or slower. What is your goal? ❓ BTW, depending on how the upper a-arm cross shaft is attached to the frame, adding or removing shims is an easier way to change camber. But as Joe says, excessive shim stack is not good either. 😉

There are also Cheese Head screws! These have a flatter head than Fillister, usually. Some pictures look the same. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/cheese-head-screws/?s=screws