Frank DuVal

ANY coil and capacitor forms an L/C circuit, whether the parts are in series or parallel. This is a tuned circuit. Not a variable tuned circuit, just tuned. This one is tuned for best high voltage output of the coil. f is frequency in Hertz, (little 0 indicating fundamental frequency), L is inductance in Henries and C is capacitance in Farads. BTW, a coil of wire wrapped around a form with an iron slug inside is a coil, aka inductor, not a capacitor. If the iron slug moves, it is a variable inductor. Commonly used in auto radios, aka permeability tuned, more stable under rough riding conditions. A capacitor is "plates" separated by an insulator. The common tuning capacitor being the aluminum plates separated by air, half of which rotate through the other plates, varying the capacitance. Small capacitors are a roll of very thin aluminum foil wrapped up with an insulator, typically plastic (Mylar [Polyester] being very common now), in the old days it was paper and wax as the dielectric (insulator). The paper gets wet from humidity in the air, causing electrons to go through the insulator, aka "leaks" through, becoming a resistor in parallel with the capacitor, upsetting the circuit. This is a common failure of automotive condensers. Now that you all are asleep from reading about electronic theory in an automotive forum....🤣

Even non-polarized (i.e. not electrolytics) capacitors can be charged to give a shock. Electrolytic just is a description of what the chemicals are inside, they are still layers of foil with insulators in between. A .22 uF charged to 400 to 600 VDC will give quite a shock! Just use one of the old Sprague or Heathkit Capacitor checkers. Google TO-5, IT-22 or C-3. SImilar to one posted earlier. Today with modern insulators they make large value capacitors which are not electrolytic in small physical size that 50 years ago could not be made except using the electrolytic method or gargantuan sizes.

If the condenser shorts, then the points electrically never open, so no spark, since the condenser is in parallel with the points. If the condenser opens then the spark is weak, as the tuned circuit of the coil/capacitor (L/C circuit in engineering speak) is out of tune, you might think of it as turning your radio knob off station, radio is working, but not delivering the expected result. Way simple explanation, but lets run with it. Same with change of capacitance, out of tune.

Paramount screwing up Showtime also, but I digress, as this is a car thread. Season 2 Episode 14. Used car dealer Harvey Hunnicutt can only tell the truth due to a Model A he put on the lot. Titled "The Whole Truth". I just checked, still available on Paramount Plus (with subscription...).

Electric fuel pump, has a red and a black wire on it.😉 The AC Delco EP90 is similar to the picture, but not exact. I have used several EP90 pumps over the years. One on my diesel Seville so I could get the air out of the fuel filter when I changed it with out cranking forever. ❄️☃️🎄🍾🍾🐖🍯

A hack for using the "Tiger-Hair" (one brand name for long strand fiberglass filler) is to lay it on plastic film/wrap, mix it and then lay the patch over the hole/area and smooth it out as best you can so there is way less sanding involved. Let the filler dry. Peel the plastic off. Yes, you do still need to sand all the surface to get the next layer, regular filler, to stick. Back in the 90s I used the plastic coated masking paper by 3M to do this trick. The paper made it stiffer and the plastic side just peeled off the Tiger-Hair (or the short fiber version). ❄️☃️🎄🍾🍾🐖🍯

AKA, condenser! 😮 🛠️ They are the SAME part! Just different terminology. Why two different names for the same part? I do not know the historical reference. You can charge up a .22 uF condenser/capacitor and get a reaction out of people. They did it all the time in the radio/tv shops.... I was wise, so never got me! Now that refrigerant to air heat exchanger in front of the radiator, that is a condenser, never a capacitor.😉 ❄️☃️🎄🍾🍾🐖🍯

Yes, lots of car spotting in Twilight Zone! I did tune into the Rose Parade this morning for a few minutes and saw a Thomas decked out with roses. driving in the parade.

Yep, Necker Knob! I see no other need for a spinner on a steering wheel. 🤣 They have always been illegal here in Virginia. So I can drive just "fine" with my left hand, even shift a three on the tree with my left hand.....🤣🤣🤣

1966 was the year GM put rear seat belts in cars as standard equipment. Also back up lamps and outside rear view mirrors. Maybe in response to knowing the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act was in the making, passed in June 1966 (almost a year after the 66 models were first assembled and sold). Virginia State Safety Inspection Rules agree with Glenn: Reject if: 4. Any passenger car manufactured on or after January 1, 1968, is not equipped with lap/shoulder or harness seat belt assemblies located at the front outboard designated seating positions (except in convertibles) and lap seat belt assemblies located at all other designated seating positions.

Great, eliminate the "car tax" and all other taxes go up, meaning I WILL BE PAYING FOR OTHER PEOPLE TO DRIVE NEW CARS WHEN I CHOOSE NOT TO in order to save money. Governor Jim Gilmore started to fully eliminate the car tax and the legislation eliminated half of the existing tax, and the counties (which receive the tax, not the state) upped the real estate tax, business BPOL tax, etc. It was a disaster for me. I do not buy $75K new vehicles, my choice, but I do live in a dwelling (and it does not matter if one rents, they are still paying real estate tax in their rent) and that tax went up. And now sales tax will go up, Gov. Younkin suggested, so everything I buy will cost more so someone else can afford an expensive car. It costs states and localities $X to offer services people want (asked their legislatures to enact). How a state (locality) chooses to divide $X among Y residents varies, but it should be fair to all, not just those who want the expensive things on the backs of the poorer or more frugal people.

You probably have a necker knob installed too!😃

Check the teeth of the ring gear on the flex plate. Check all 360°. Worn teeth is a (not the only) reason for braking starter noses. The teeth will be worn in one spot typically, as engines tend to stop in the same spot, so the starter engages in the same spot every time.😉

But they hit the Hula Girl!

Me Too! ❗

Not quite a knocking sound, but it is quite disturbing! I've replaced one on my '95 Ultra about 10 years ago. The Dorman I got first was out of balance, so genuine GM and all was well.👍 🎄🎄☃️🐖❄️🍠🍲

Yep, no way no how will a bad coil cause smoking! It's electrical. The coil I mean, electrical does not cause smoking, just poor or no running. Choke being closed causes "running rough, smoking, no power." This is because of excess fuel getting to the cylinder making the mixture too rich to fire properly. Yes, there can be too much fuel to be able to burn (explode), or put another way, not enough air (oxygen). Or as 49 says, dirt holding needle open.

On your 1995 Park Avenue?😉

I was given a present of an Indy driving class at RIR. It was a hoot, but they really should have larger helmets, trying to get the helmet with the head sock and glasses on was about impossible!😮 🦃🕎🍠🎄❄️🐖🎄☃️🍲

All the systems I have seen use DOT 3 from the factory, but I have not seen every early system! The earliest I've personally seen was the 1950 Buick with DOT 3 in the hydraulic pump powering the windows, seats and top. The latest I have seen were mid 60 GM top systems that were DOT3 in the pump reservoir. Great video, Christian!👍 ❄️🎄🎄🐖🍠🕎🦃

Hmm seems like a lot of work to change heater hoses and a starter....🤣

Yes, but.... the socket then grounds through the socket to lens housing crimp which grounds to the body through the mounting screws. Many people forget the socket is a different stamping than the lens housing stamping or casting. This is why soldering a wire to the socket works well, it bypasses the socket to lens housing connection. I run into this all the time on the brass socket to aluminum housing crimps. A test for a bad crimp is to use a screwdriver tip to touch both the socket and housing at the same time. The Buick housing in the picture does not look like aluminum, but there are still two parts there.

It's a Woodruff key, not square stock. Clean the groove and it should be tappable into the slot to where everything fits. 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️

You sure that 2004 LeSabre engine is not the series III? A quick look at the engine cover will tell. Not many people swap engine covers. That series II and series III engine is just broken in at 140 K. Unless your sister also ran it low on oil all the time!😉 All the things that break at this milage are things bolted to the engine, not internal.🛠️ 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️

I agree your case is not the teeth on the ring gear. There is always some clashing/gnashing noise when the teeth are the issue. 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️