Frank DuVal

I thought this was an interesting comment from a person without a location in their "Location" box. So you made me Google and sure enough Littlestown is a place in Pennsylvania. I think most people not from lower central PA would not know that.😉 But you are near potato chips and a large Corvair parts business! 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️

Plumber's sand cloth.😉 Unless you have lathe. Any sandpaper of 100 or higher grit. It will be ready to install by spring. Warning, though, if it is too loose a fit, it will fall out, then we will be answering how to replace a piston questions, so tighter is better!😮 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️

It's a 21 C.P. bulb on 12 volts. Even when the turnsignal filament and the parking lamp filament is on at the same time it won't pull more than 3 amps. 18 to 16 awg would be fine. Yes, soldering the wire to the brass socket is best. Bypasses the brass shell to the housing crimp. If you have access to a sand or soda blaster that might clean up that lamp housing. Then paint the reflective area with gloss white paint.👍 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️

There is NO ground wire! I hardly ever see a ground wire on a lamp assembly of this period. The ground is by mechanical contact of those screws/nuts , and after almost 70 years these connections are suspect! Also, on early and FC Corvairs we have a lot of issues with the brass shell that holds the lamp, covered in black in your photo, not having a good ground to the assembly that is bolted to the car. The good solution, but not if worried about AACA or other stock judging, is to remove that cover on the shell enough to solder a wire directly to it, then attach the wire to a clean chassis screw. I did mention the test for a good ground, remove the lens with the assembly bolted in place, and touch a wire from a good ground to the brass shell of the lamp. If this makes it work, poor ground is the issue.😉 🦃☃️🕎🎄🎄🍲🍠🐖

For Briggs and Stratton cylinders in GM cars of this period, it is 6 (SIX) tumblers in locks, with the exception of glove box locks, which I have seen with 4 and 5 tumblers. If anyone is not near a locksmith, I provide code cutting key service for B&S GM locks. I cut them by code provided by you and mail them to you. Usually less than a week to mail in the lower 48. I see several references to hex head keys. The B&S B-10 (and several other of their blanks also) is Octagonal, like a stop sign! The B-11 (same groove, fits same locks as B-10) is the Pear head key, used for the trunk/glove on GM cars with the two key system. Sounds like your LeSabre is a one key system. Possible the ignition or other lock was changed at some time. A locksmith (or me) can return the odd guy to the same key as the other locks. Do NOT ignore the possibility the locks are keyed the same but the key is worn out! Works in some, not in other locks. I've seen it. Get a set of code cut keys and try them before asking to change the tumblers in the locks. 🦃🕎🍲☃️🍠🐖🎄🎄❄️

Well, yes, there are many iterations of turn signal wiring. Get into the amber rear lights, third brake lights, etc, yikes! But, one can usually say the front turn signal lamp is not wired directly to the rear turn signal lamp on a Buick with factory turn signals, when the rear lamps function as both brake and turn, because of they were wired together the front lamps would light when one stepped on the brake! It is the turn signal switch's job to connect them at the right time.😉 Snowman, what year Buick? I see no profile picture. ☃️ 🦃 🐖 🍠 🍲 🎄 🎄 🕎 🕎 ❄️

Typically the left front turn signal is wired to the left dash indicator. The left rear flashing quickly is why the flasher (not a fuse) sounds quick clicks. I would look for a bad ground at the lamp. Jump from the brass shell to a good chassis ground and see if it starts flashing. Not having a shop manual for your car, what is it again?, I can only assume the white wire is the parking light, and goes to the headlamp switch, which contains a circuit breaker. The green and then yellow wire would be the turn signal wire. Awaiting car info and someone with a shop manual to confirm. 🦃 🐖 🍠 🍲 🎄 🎄 🕎 🕎 ❄️

Lisle 60850 triple square bit set picture. 🦃 🐖 🍠 🍲 🎄 🎄 🕎 🕎 ❄️

I do not know, but you might find an answer here: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk I know, much more post war information on there, but some of the people do own earlier Studebakers.😉 Ask the question there, can't hurt, as they say. 👍 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

Sure, and a full overhaul for that engine would just be one more step in those simple terms! 4. Overhaul engine. I think some very important small steps are missing!😮 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

I told him exactly where it (the black wire) went. Even gave the OP a link to instructions.❗ Then the wheels feel off the apple cart, and I helped! 😮 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

Also be sure to have a good book to read while you wait... I'd rather replace a small part and continue on my way that wait hours to tow to where? Hershey, to get impossible to find locally parts? Then wait for October? Locally being where your car broke. I did say carry spares if you are on a trip, if a short tow home gets to your parts stash then that does work. 300 miles away, not so much.😉 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

There is a topic on here about rebuilding a Buick straight eight. Maybe in the Buick Post War section.

Rusty, that's how I used to time VWs of the 50s and 60s (OK, I only ever worked on one 1957 Beetle). I know at some point in years this was not the preferred method. Remember the Hippie Guide for VWs, I mean the How To Keep Your VW Alive by John Muir the engineer. (Muir Woods , i.e. John Muir the naturalist, is a distant relative). This guide was my first for seeing the test lamp method, then I saw Chilton's, etc. also had it. No timing light needed. 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

That's the only reason I say to carry a spare on a trip, as not every store carries a Pertronix module to swap in for a test. Of course, neither do they carry points, rotor, condenser, cap for cars of this age either. I also tell people to carry these spares on a trip. Either will break at the most inopportune time! ❗ 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

Then how did you install the Pertronix module?😁 Skyhook? ❓ Ha ❗ 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

Only when the contact inside the regulator closes upon seeing the generator having output current. 😉 🦃 🦃🐷 🍠 🥔🎄🕎 ❄️

👍❗

I think you mean 1930s....😁 Lots of AM/FM home radios were sold from the late 40s onward. Before WWII there was the first FM broadcast band of 42 to 50 MHz. The current 88 to 108 MHz band came onto being in 1946. Lots of Zenith table top Bakelite radios still out there with both FM bands, made between 1946 and 1949. 😉 It is true there was a lull in new FM licenses until stations figured out how to make money on FM broadcasting. Simulcasting ( just feeding both the AM and FM transmitters the same audio) did not increase market share by much. Classical did take off as a reason to use FM because of superior frequency response. In the 70s there were just a handful of AM stations doing full time classical, like WQXR in NYC. In Richmond we had at least 5 FM stations in the 50s. WRVA, WRNL, WTVR, WLEE and WRFK. Of course, what would you expect from the city of the south's first television station.😁

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Well, more low cost options are to buy one at a thrift store or see if a neighbor has an old one to give away. I've heard they are also good for powder coating small parts. 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

You have power to both terminals with the key on, yet the brake lights do not light, is that a correct statement? I do not have a 69 Ghia wiring diagram. Some European cars have separate brake lights, not part of the turn signal system, not sure what this Ghia has. 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

Georgia? Heck it wasn't finished in southern Virginia either! Had to use US 301 for a section when I was driving that area in 76 to 77. Now, go back to my grandparents day, US 1 was not thought of yet! To get from Richmond to Baltimore meant traveling west to avoid the rivers (Potomac, Rappahannock, etc). Not the 3 or so hour trip of today (OK, longer if traveling during Washington rush hour!), more like all day plus. ❗

I originally meant carburetor cleaner, but not if you are going to toast it. 😉 If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner you could start with that, use Simple Green or any detergent. Flush with a lot of water afterward and dry with compressed air. Using detergent shouldn't be an issue later using the toaster oven. Unless Jon states otherwise, then I would go with his recommendation. 😃 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️

Soak it more. Should be stuck from old fuel. Not stuck from deformed metal. If deformed metal, then drill may be only option. Hopefully Carb King will tell us his experience with these, if metal deformation is ever an issue. 🦃 🦃 🐖 🍠🥔🎄 🕎 ❄️