Seafoam65

You are correct....the pan overflows and the fluid leaks past the seal on the dipstick tube. I had a 77 Firebird Trans Am in the shop last year with a fresh rebuild and the fluid kept leaking out at the base of the dipstick tube after changing the seal three times by various shops. They brought the car in for me to look at it and I found that the dipstick tube had a hairline crack in it. I welded it up and ground down the weld and no more leak.

Give me the measurements of the old pad, the height, and width at the top and the bottom. The old pad in your picture sure looks to be the same dimensions as the brake pedal pad on my 69 GTO. Post the dimensions and I'll measure my GTO pad to see if it's the same.

Can you come up with the VIN number?........not likely you will ever find it without that.

The leather pumps can handle alcohol fuel as well as the blue plastic ones.

Are you sure it isn't low on coolant? If the coolant gets low it will overheat and you pointed out that you had a small leak. Perhaps it leaked out enough to cause overheating. In my experience in the car repair business when a car comes in overheating it is low on coolant 95 per cent of the time......just wondering if you checked the level when cold.

3M strip calk is what you want to use for this, although since collector cars usually are never driven in the rain, there really isn't any need to bother with the stuff.

Unless the kit had been sitting on the shelf for decades, it should have had the alcohol resistant accelerator pump. All the kits I have used for a long long time have had the blue accelerator pumps which are the alcohol resistant ones.

It has the scoops on the quarters but they are hard to see with the trim removed....it is a 64.

Wow that carpet color is so far off it might as well be bright red! The color of the vinyl looks pretty good.........you need to find someone who can mix up some dye to dye the carpet the right color.

Mark.......is there a way you can rotate the slider switch bezel a litlle? It is mounted a little crooked right now with the right side lower than the left side. Agreed, the slider switches look much better!

Somebody needs to latch on those rare 64 Only Chrome wheels!

I've been running ethanol gas in all my old cars for decades with no issues whatsoever.......but it is important not to let the car sit for months without driving it....that's when damage is done. If your carb has an old style black plastic accelerator pump plunger you will eventually need to change it out for a blue ethanol resistant plunger when the black one swells to the point that the car starts hesitating on acceleration. If you let ethanol gas just sit in the carb bowl for many months without driving the car, it will form deposits in the bottom of the carb bowl that set up like concrete, but if you drive the car at least once every six weeks you won't have any problems. It is important to drive the car often enough that the fuel tank gets fresh gas in it every 4 or five months.......What I do is I don't fill my old cars up all the way so I buy gas more often to keep the gas in the tank fresh. People claim you should put STA-BIL in the gas tank but I've never done that and I haven't had any issues. If you have an NOS mechanical fuel pump on your car that was manufactured before ethanol came out in the early 90's, you will have much less life out of your fuel pump than you would with a newly manufactured one with an ethanol resistant diaphragm, but in my experience you will still get at least six years out of your non ethanol resistant pump before it starts leaking. On most of my old cars I stocked up on NOS AC fuel pumps for them that I bought back in the early 90's and that's what I run on my cars but I have to change them every six to ten years on average. I just run them till they start leaking or quit pumping then i change them.

Those horn pads are the infamous great GM feeling design wherein the switch consists of two sets of contacts with foam in between them to act as a spring.......this being the same crappy foam that GM used in their headliner material that crumbled to dust when five years old. Once the foam crumbles, the horn blows all the time.

I recommend Auto City Classic.....I've bought lots of glass from them over the years and have always been very pleased 'with their glass........their price on a first gen windshield is 329.00........and for an extra charge I think you can have the correct logo and date code put on it......they did that for me on my 70 Chevelle SS......I changed out all the glass with their glass.... perfect fit, correct tint and logos and date codes.

This is an extremely common phenomena, and although I don't have a degree in psychology, I believe that people like the ones described above get an adrenaline rush by parking their old derelict mistreated cars outside in the rain in plain sight so that people will come to their door asking to buy said car and they will get the power trip of turning the would be buyers down....... They don't give a rat's about their cars or they wouldn't treat them like that.......and no.....they have no intention of ever actually restoring the cars.... again, in order to want to restore a car you have to give a rat's about it, which these people obviously do not.

You need to purchase a fuel pressure tester.....I've had brand new mechanical fuel pumps have 12 psi instead of the correct 6 psi right out of the box, causing the needle and seat in the carb not to be able to hold back the pressure.

Has your windshield been replaced at some point? It could be that the urethane adhesive got on the edge of the dash pad, gluing the pad to the windshield.

The correct color is GM blue, but on a lot of the original cars as they left the factory, the color was a lighter shade of blue than the official corporate blue. You would have to have someone custom mix the paint to get a match to the original paint. Same thing with the Buick Green paint on the nailheads......the factory color was more blue and less green than the official formula.

Call Strutmasters (Go to their website for the phone number) and order their rear air suspension conversion kit for your specific car. It comes with high quality conventional shocks and new coil springs to replace the air suspension parts.The new coil springs will provide proper ride height with no air assist. I've sold 100 of these kits for various air suspension vehicles and I have one of their kits on my 2009 Lincoln Town Car. Their kit will also give you instructions on how to turn off the air suspension malfunction light in the dash cluster if it is a car that it is possible to do it.

Bob, for about twenty six years I used Freeze 12 as a replacement for R12 in both all my own cars and my customer's cars. I used the original oil in the system and the original hoses, just used Freeze 12 to charge the system with no other changes and never once had any issues and the cooling was just as good, and I would mix the R12 with the Freeze 12 although all the so called experts said you couldn't do that. Unfortunately for some reason they quit making Freeze 12 and you can't buy it any more. As a matter of fact, my 79 Trans Am that will freeze you out of the car has been running a mixture of half R12 and half Freeze 12 for 22 years with no need to charge the system or mess with the system in any way.

Craig........report back how closely the Clark's Green upholstery matches the original in terms of thickness of the material and the color match. I keep expecting my Driver's seat to split open somewhere although it's in great shape at present.

That hole would drive me crazy......I'd be staring at it every time I walked by the car!

What about the hideous looking gaping hole in the fender? It's crazy to leave them off unless you are going to weld up the fender holes and repaint the fenders.

Listen to your wife!

If he buys a rust free parts car to get the sheetmetal he needs, he would be buying a restorable car to cut up and destroy to repair the rusty parts car he has now. Does that make any sense?