Seafoam65

I am puzzled how that accident was survivable. Since the steering wheel is against the seat back, it appears that she should have been impaled by the steering column. I assume that she must have slid to the outside of the column up against the door before the front of the car was pushed back all the way.....she is one lucky girl!

No way your car was built then.......my Dad's 65 Riviera which he special ordered in June 1964 arrived in our hands the second week of September. No Rivieras were built in October 1964 because the Flint plant was in the middle of a GM worker's strike that was going on that entire month.

Click on "MotorTexas", which is a website for posting Texas Car Shows, scroll down to October 26, and click on our event (BOPC Car Show), and print off the flier on your computer.

I tried that, but I still have the same problem

About 4 months ago, the private message icon at the top of the page disappeared on my forum page and I have no way to read them or respond to them. I still get a message come up in the middle of my screen when I get a message. It appears one time then I never see it again. Of course I have no way of reading it or responding to it. Am I the only one with this problem?

Ed, if the vent window frame fits correctly to the A pillar and the front of the driver's window fits properly to the channel on the vent window frame, then the problem is the rear window is out of adjustment. It sounds to me like the rear window has too much travel as it goes forward as it is rolled up and it sounds like it is over rotating. It sounds to me like you need to adjust both of the rear window stops. Rear windows will drive you crazy.....I remember spending hours adjusting the stops on the rear windows on my 70 Chevelle when I had it all apart.....I remember having the same problem with the rear windows going too far forward at the top. If you get the rear window stops adjusted right, the problem will be fixed.

It's time for CARS to get these reproduced.

Just wondering why one would not install them. It seems to me that would be like only installing 4 lug nuts on each wheel, or installing three new tires and leaving the bald one on the right rear. I've had my front bumper off and I don't recall them being difficult to install. Now there is discussion of installing plastic breakaway bolts. Why not just put steel bolts in? I am confused. Is it because people are afraid that they will bump into something with the corner of the bumper and damage the fender because it is attached to the fender? Has somebody had this happen to them?

Why would someone want to leave them out?

The radio and power antenna are not on the same fuse. Radio fuse is on the bottom left of the fuse box, power antenna fuse on the bottom right. I would take a test light, hook it to ground and check both sides of all the fuses to see if they have power on both sides of the fuse, then report your findings here.

The second annual BOPC car show will be held on Saturday October 26 from 10 till 3 at Grapevine First Methodist Church in downtown Grapevine, Tx. The rain date will be the following Saturday at the same place and time. There will lots of awards, including a special award for Best of Show Buick Riviera sponsored by the North Texas Region of the ROA. For more information, call Winston at 972-762-8391

I was about to suggest that when I saw your last post.

Recently, I inquired about how to go about removing the lower quarter panel stainless trim on my car so I could replace my front right quarter lower trim that had a couple of small dings in it with a perfect one I found on ebay. Some folks said to pry it off and one person said to just slide it off. The sliding technique worked perfectly for me and took just a minute and a half to do the whole job. What I did was open the right door, then with the heel of my hand I softly banged on the trim in a forward motion. Each time I did that the trim moved forward just a little. After doing that five times, the trim had slid forward into the door opening enough to take a pair of pliers and grab the end of the trim and pulled on it and it slid off like butter. The new piece just slid right on in seconds. The beauty of this method is you don't risk scratching the paint, damaging the trim, or breaking those brittle plastic clips that are 60 years old. Hope this helps someone.

If I was selling a car that had a lot of sentimental value that needed everything as far as restoration goes, I would be more concerned about who I sold it to than how much I got for it, as i would want to sell it to somebody who was going to do a serious resto on it, not somebody who might wind up parting it out. That being said, even if you gave the car away for zero dollars, it would cost more to restore it than you could just go out and buy a babied all it's life nice one for. If it was mine I would seek out a noted restorer of these cars and make him an enticing price, say around 5,000 dollars. Even at 5K the buyer will wind up upside down on the car by the time he is finished restoring it.

If you seriously want a factory looking result i would get them done by Just Dashes if they were mine, or source some nice used ones.

The paint on the engine in your photo looks like the original paint looked on my 65's engine when I bought it in 2013. All the paint that everyone sells for this application is much more green and less blue than the paint the factory used. I went with the Hirsch paint on my car but it really is way greener than the original paint was. Here is a photo of the original paint on my car's engine before I repainted it...........and a picture of the engine with the hirsch paint on it after I redid the engine compartment....

Your drier is supposed to have a sight glass on the top of it. If the system is low, there will be white foam in the glass when the A/C is running. Charge up the system until the sight glass goes clear. If you don't see a sight glass on top of your drier, it may be that it is covered over with black paint. Watching the sight glass is the best method of getting the charge exactly right.

Old cars should never be driven in the rain or washed with a hose........If you don't drive them in the rain then they never get dirty enough to need washing.....a dust off with a California Duster or wipe down with a damp towel is all that is needed. My Riviera has been wet one time since 1967 (It got caught in the rain during the 2015 BCA national meet car show) I wouldn't hose down a 60's car any more than I would pour battery acid on it.

Sounds to me like you have a bad float that has absorbed gas and the float level is too high.

My car runs great on super unleaded with the timing set to factory specs....no pinging and lots of power.

Do not use foam around sheet metal unless you want the metal to rust out......this part should be mad of non absorbent rubber. In the late 60's some genius at GM decided that it was a good idea to use foam calk between the inner and outer quarter panels and between inner and outer hood and trunk lid panels. These panels would have rust through in four years even in places like Arizona and Texas.....I feel sure this was intentional to boost new car sales in non rust belt states.

Ed, what does how parts get broken have to do with locating a weatherstrip for Gene's cowl? I too am very confused regarding your comment.

I have them on all my old cars.......never have had any leaks or problems and they are easy to remove and reinstall, and best of all they tighten up automatically if the hose shrinks with age.

Yes, it goes under the bracket.

That sounds like a good idea!