RockitRiviera

These are my favorites...and I bookmarked them: (They were from a 66-67 Chevelle)...but anything would work if you are creative enough...like this guy! http://forums.aaca.org/topic/225839-63-riviera-trunkbody-mounts/#post1229020 http://forums.aaca.org/topic/225991-63-riviera-trunkbody-mounts-part-2/

I'm converting my 1965 Riviera to Electric...but first I need to restore it so it's road worthy. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. I'm not an Electrical Engineer.

It's an Electric Car Conversion. Using two DC motors through a four speed manual. It's real...but just a hobbyist. Looks like a clean car to continue to convert to Electric. However, everyone is going with AC motors or Permanent Magnet AC (PMAC) motors. And yes, Lithium Ion Batteries are a must...but technology is changing quickly. Note: Doesn't look to have Air Conditioning or Power Steering. Will need about 1,000#'s of LiFePO4 batteries to get about 100 miles. Paul

I bought my front brake kit from Jamco...and the instructions were nearly worthless. I had to find pics online (ebay) and I pieced it together from the pics. Good luck...for the price we pay, you'd think they'd include a DVD of HOW TO.

I dunno, looks pretty molested to me.

Hello All, Met some great guys from TX at the ROA Meet in St. Charles, IL. I'm down here in Houston for work this week...and since I am here, I wanted to explore some great scrap yards that sport some Riviera's (1st Gen). Any clues? Thanks!

My first ROA meet...everyone was very friendly and answered my odd ball questions about their unique modifications. Great show!

I wish I had a lift...because the 2x4's are a pain in the ass.

Excellent...keep going...you're making my restoration easier!

BUMP...maybe I should start a new thread? Need technique/tip on how to install 1965 Rubber Bumpers on upper control arm. Bought from Old Buick Parts.com. Maybe they are a harder rubber than OEM? Thanks

Hi Guys, this looks like an old thread...but maybe you can help. I'm putting my suspension back together and those upper control arm "pull through" rubber bumper are ticking me off. How can you install them? Is there a trick? I've tried heating them up in the sun, pulling them through, pushing them through using a flat head screw driver...not budging. Thanks in advance for your help.

I have a feeling "a little time" was more like SEVERAL weekends?

I agree, the bearings are prelubed and sealed...the seals are inboard...but I thought they needed some lube. I'm sure the guy who rebuilt the rear end lubed them up. I had to replace those seals because they were spun out. We had to have a machinist build them as there are no replacements available

Thanks Alini...I was sort of worried about the axle bushings/sleeves at the outward ends of the axles....pretty far away from the sloshing of the gear oil/ring/pinion gears. But I'll trust you.

I'm about to install the rear diff back to the frame. I haven't put any fluid in it yet. But when I was looking at it today...the fill spout is very low. It doesn't seem to be enough if I just fill it to level. Should I tip the differential back to fill some more? Just curious...and is there a break in procedure?

Holy crap, you did remove the whole thing! I have no answers for you now. But you must be one strong s.o.b. I took a sledge hammer to mine and I didn't remove the frame's bushing sleeve. I'm humbled by your machismo.

Please see pics above. First I drilled out the center shaft of the bushing (by drilling through the rubber many many times). Then I pretty much hammered the center shaft out. Then I hammered and chiseled for about a month before a friend recommended a sawz-all. In a minute I had them both out with the sawz-all.. If you lived nearby, I'd drop off my sawz-all for you to use. So far that is the only use I've had for it. Then I lubed up the new bushings and hammered them in with a home made contraption. I'm so glad that job is done.

i suggest you cut them out with a sawz-all 1) Burn out the rubber or drill it out. 2) then cut out the bushing with sawzall...send me an email and I'll try to send you pics...this is a nightmare job.

I'll take a pic when I get home so you have a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Just a follow up, the 1965 Riviera wheels fit fine over the calipers. Just a note...if you do this "bolt on" kit...you'll have to replace your wheel/axle studs/lugs. I'd suggest you do this when the axles are out of the differential housing...it'll be easier to pound out the old ones and pound in the new ones. The new ones ($2.00 each at a local auto parts store) have a 5/8" long ribbed section. The originals are about 1/3". This ribbed section has a larger diameter than the 1/2" lug/stud. This longer ribbed section is needed to hold the discs/rotors in place. The holes on the rotor are too big. So instead of adding bushings, I just thought the new studs would be easier.

NICE!

I ripped an old, rusty pair of air shocks off my 65 when I started the restoration. I replaced it with new shocks on the rear and RideTech air suspension (Front and rear). I'm still in the process of restoration so no reviews yet.

OMG! Everything takes so long! But thanks for the detailed process! I wish Over Haul'n would do a 1965 Riviera. It'd take them a year!

Hi Pete, it would be great if you could do a step by step DIY that includes products that you used, the amount of time at each step and the types of paint you used. My interior is blue and I'd like to change to black...and I love your two tone steering wheel. Great restoration!