RockitRiviera

Ed, yes, it is odd. Here is where we are right now: A few things: 1) Calipers are on backward. This is the only way they would fit. I'm ok with this because I like the look and I like the center of gravity moving more to the...center of the car. 2) If put on the back of the rotor, they would interfere with shock absorber! 3) I haven't checked to see if the original wheels fit over the Caliper. I'll let you all know. 4) I'll have to figure out how to operate the Emergency Brake if I have to pull the lever backward (these calipers come with an E-brake, spring loaded set up. Another custom car headache. Probably have to get a Lockar e-brake kit. 5) The Rotors are TOO big for the axle. The diameter of the center of the rotor has about 1/4" gap around the axle...so the shop is going to machine/find a bushing that will go on the axle and allow the rotor to fit snug against it. 6) The rear end has been completely rebuilt with new bushings and bearings. I don't dare ask how much $$...I told him to wait to tell me until Friday. Any other questions? FYI: This is NOT a bolt on kit.

I just don't think they know what they're doing...and now either do I!

Ed, they have specific years when you place your order. You have to indicate which year Riv you have so you get the right kit. It's just frustrating to restore/modify anything but a Chevy Camaro or a Ford Mustang.

Argh, thanks Ed. I'm too far down this path with the original dif to contemplate changing now. Jamco says that they sell hundreds of these and many Riv's have had these installed...and no problems. ??? So, I'm looking for someone who has done this. Anyone? Anyone? Thanks!

Does anyone have experience with this kit for the rear Dif? My shop is running into all sorts of problems and Jamco is little help. Also, they don't have instructions for the rear kit. It's hardly a "bolt on" kit. FYI, this is a weird differential. I've had the hole thing gone through (new bushings, bearings, etc). Is this dif used in any other car? My shop said it could be a GMC truck dif. Comments?

Thank you all for your interest. I sold the 455 today with the aluminum intake. I still have the heads if you are interested.

Please make offer

Spent over $3K on this engine. Alderman Machine in New Castle, DE did the work for this engine and the engine (another 455) in my 1951 Buick Special. They do quality work and stand behind their work.

If you can't read the #'s on the block: 1241735

I have a professionally rebuilt 455 out of a 73 Estate Wagon. It has many TA Performance parts in it. I've been holding onto it for use in another project, but I've decided that I have too many projects and not enough space. In addition to that, I have 455 heads that are ported by TA Performance (Cast Iron, NOT ALUMINUM) and a Poston High Rise Intake. I can provide pics and details (and receipts) if you are serious. I'm located North of Minneapolis/St. Paul about 60 miles. I can help load with my engine hoist. Currently Engine is on an Engine Stand. Engine stand is not for sale. I'm open to offers. Thanks, Paul

could u zoom out a little...the pic is so close it's hard to tell what it is. I've used Eastwood's Rust Converter and POR 15. But I've also cut out the bad metal and welded in new metal.

the sawz-all with a blade for metal (fine tooth) worked for me...once I go the center rubber burnt out.

keep us posted! I'll be working on the headlights this winter...and need all the help I can get.

...and I did find them on his website...but again, when I went to his price sheet....they were discontinued.

because I priced 1965 base door panels and the price sheet said, "Discontinued"

Did Clark's discontinue the panels?

On my 65, I had the base plate on the Driver Side (rear, lower control arm)...but not on the passenger side. It does look like someone has played with the rear suspension in the past so maybe it was lost then?

Wow, this was a helpful thread...I'd like to know about this mystery tool to remove / insert bushings on the 65 front/lower suspension like "60FlatTop". My rubber (front, lower control arm bushing) is rotting away. So I plan to drill out as much of the rubber as possible. Then what??? And how to get new ones in? Thanks folks!

Nice!

If there is an owner on here...what brand/supplier did you use for the 4 wheel disc brakes?

nice!

To remove the rear e-brake cable (connected to the chassis/frame) from the body (front e-brake cable) there is a small pin/cotter-pin near the tail shaft of the transmission. Pull the cotter pin and the pin and Viola!. Now, how to remove the rear U shaped thing for the rear brakes from the transmission tunnel...This car has so many weird fittings. Oh, and this is pics with the frame upside down on my driveway. I removed the weird shaped flat metal lever from the frame too.

Very Nice!