• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

35 Excellent

About rapom

  • Rank
  • Birthday 02/10/1968

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I daily drive mine to work (64 Riviera) when the weather is good. I have an Electric choke also and it works great. Drove it to work today (40 degrees) and had no problems. I can start and go if I want to (which I did today because I was late taking my daughter to school before I go to work) I never ran the stock choke before so I don't know what I'm missing, but the electric one works great.
  2. IrIforfun, thanks for the info. I should have known the problem since it happened to me before in a chevy 350. Lasted about 2 years on that engine until there was to much blowby from the damaged cyl. wall or piston.
  3. My 64 Riviera always has exhibited a deep knock on startup that goes away as it warms up. It lasts about 1 minute. Oil pressure is about 35psi. (You would think it would be the opposite.) This has gone on for over 10,000 miles since I bought it. I think it has 122,000 or 222,000 miles. It's not a light tapping sound, It sounds like a rod knock. Anyway, it hasn't gotten any worst so I keep driving it. Engine is tired but runs great.
  4. It wouldn’t be an easy job. Driveshaft, trans crossmember, and shifter linkage is different. Kickdown is done with a electric switch at the carb that hooks to the trans. That’s off the top of my head. Better to find a 64 or 65. Maybe use a junk 64,65 as a donor car for a clean 63
  5. I bought my 64 Rivieria with a pertronix already installed in it in 2014. 10,000 miles later it is still going strong.
  6. rapom

    AC problem

    Sounds like the electric clutch is bad. You may be able to take it apart and clean the surfaces (rust, dirt) so it engages easier. Sometimes you can adjust the clutch tighter so it will engage easier. Also may be a shim you could remove so it engages easier. Shim would have to be real thin (.002). If it is thick I wouldn't remove it, I would machine it a bit thinner. I have never worked on one (A 6) before but that is my experience working on others.
  7. Yes, I had my 2 1/4" exhaust made up to be as close to the inner wheel well, frame as possible and everything clears. Not sure if a factory system would clear though.
  8. Both front and rear wheels are 15x8's. Added bonus is that the stock hubcaps fit on these rims as well. Plus they have clearance for the rivets on the front drums. Rim's are U.S. Wheel 304's which are currently $61.99 each. On my 64 I had to clearance the front spindle hole a bit to get it on.
  9. I also used coil spring Specialties. I went 2” over stock Very happy with my setup. They made the rear springs a bit stiffer so it don’t sag with a fuel tank of gas and extra passengers in back. When I bought mine it had 3” lowering springs on it. Not my kind of look. But I did drive it a bit and it was horrible. Lots of chassis rubbing on bumps and driveways and a stiff ride. I have 295-55-15’s in the rear and 245-60-15’s in the front with no rubbing. Fronts will rub the inside frame if I crank the wheel all the way.
  10. The functionality is not replicated. You lose the ability to pull in outside air with the vintage air system. Which in theory makes it more efficient. But you still have all the defrost, heat, floor, and vent systems hooked up to the existing vents. Console ductwork system is bypassed in my system but might be used with some creative thinking.
  11. If you install a Vintage air system, everything is under the dash and none of the air box and components on the firewall in the engine compartment are needed. I had to make a large blockoff plate for the firewall. So, your engine compartment wouldn't look stock anyway unless you are leaving that stuff in also. New compressor bolts in the factory front bracket and the rear bracket using a spacer. I know if you do a search you can find an install thread on this forum. It's been a while since I installed the system so I can't remember any part nos. off the top of my head. When I installed mine, I think the underdash unit is the next size down from the biggest.
  12. Those are some old gages. I remember buying a set of those at Farm & Fleet back in the 80's. I used them my Camaro to replace some idiot lights and they worked great. My set came with a volt gage instead of the amp gage you have.
  13. I like to see gages because you get a better feel for your car over time and know if somethings up ahead of time when you are used to seeing them in a particuler spot. I was surprised at the oil pressure difference when I went from 10w-30 to 10w-40. My engine is tired and my idle pressure hot is about 5psi with the 10w-30 and 10psi at 10w-40. Highway was 20psi and is now 29psi with the the 10w-40. Plus I'm always amazed at how much higher my oil pressure is after an oil change. The old oil doesn't smell like gas so there can't be to much gas getting passed the rings. The temp is the most interesting to watch. It hovers around 180 which matches the theromostat 90% of the time. But on hot days with the A/C on it can get close to 195. I have a slow water pump leak and about once a month or every 500 miles I have to top off the radiator. I always know it's getting low when the gage starts swings between 190 and 180 while driving letting me know the coolant is low because the thermostat is cycling. If you get a quality brand of gages you should have no gage problems. Plus I still have all the stock idiot lights hooked up so I have no surprises. But like others have said there are few places for gages in these cars without customizing things.
  14. I used the Stewart warner green line gages because they closely matched the factory instrument gages. Plus I used aluminum gage pods to get the angle right.