Buffalowed Bill

Larry, Way tardy on this one, thought I had responded. Because of your help I was able to sell the sheet metal. Passing it on to someone who could use it was more important then the money. Thank's Bill

One more point-the old car hobby isn't just for us who enjoy our car. It's also a preservation of history and sharing that history with others. I have little doubt that we all take pleasure in sharing with the uninitiated, a part of history, that if it were not for one of us preserving it, they would never get the chance to get to see, and hopefully understand, some of what we take for granted. Thankfully there are many different venues, and a different audience for each. No two levels of the hobby are going to expose the same audience to our cars, and to history. Maybe more important then why they are there, or who is sharing them, is the fact that they are there. Each level of participation has it's audience, limiting any one of those audiences is just wrong.

Just curious has anyone successfully used JB Weld, or a similar product for tank repair?

For me, as a car collector, I have both driver cars that I display, on occasion, and two cars that I have shown in competition. Early on I tried to drive one of the cars that I showed, a distance of about three hundred miles, to a concourse event. At the end of the drive I was faced with the chore of eight hours of heavy detailing to bring it back to competition ready. The same was required after the drive back home. I have nothing but admiration for someone willing to drive and show regularly, but it taught me a lesson that has stayed with me for forty years-I keep my drivers separate from my show cars. That doesn't mean that I eschew short drives with show cars. In fact at some events a tour is required before a car can be shown in competition. Even at Pebble Beach one of the signature segments of the even, is the seventeen mile drive around the peninsula following the show. The drive is a fitting cap for owners and spectators.

I wasn't going to voice an opinion on this, but what the hell! I have no doubt that you can get the job done for 5-10 dollars, but probably only if you are able to work the paint that's already on the car. So maybe that should answer the question, but I will continue nonetheless. These are the steps that I suggest when evaluating a car, and how to proceed: 1)Before you start any process do some real soul searching. What are you going to be satisfied with? If you can't, or won't answer this question honestly, don't even venture any farther. The last thing that you need is to open yourself up for second guessing. If you have doubts about what you want the car to be, or question your willingness, or ability to complete the job, don't touch it! All this is mute since you have, seemingly, already made the choice. 2) Know your car-history of the work that was done, when it was done and how it was done. If there is no verifiable history inspect every inch of the car. If there is any cracked, peeling or chalky paint-take care of it right now! If the paint has been on the car and looks like it will take a build, don't get too curious and dig too deep. Also make sure that the primer you choose for your build is compatible with what's on the car now. Also knowing how straight your body is will help determine how much block sanding you will need to do. By the way, I agree with you, I like catalyzed enamel for your project, I've used it several times. 3)If you are not going to shoot the body yourself be prepared to interview painters willing to do the "complete." Many shops only do spot repair today, so be prepared to do some looking. Ask to see samples of his work, and talk to owners of the cars that he has worked on. Make sure that the painter knows exactly what you want the job to be. If you feel inclined to want to cut and rub make sure that he knows he needs to adjust by increasing the build a little. There is a place for restoration shops today, but on your budget I doubt that you will be willing to pay the price. 4)I think that with a stock build it is important to use an available color from the available pallet for 1948. Your car your choice, just an opinion. I like all the Chrysler Corp. three window coupes from the 40's. Pictures would be nice. Good luck. Bill

John, You mean that he wouldn't let you take the wheel and cap together as a unit? Even wheels in bad condition can be made to look acceptable for use as a side-mounted spare. It looks like the wheel and cap like on my 1931 80R . It may be one model down, if it is a 19" wheel, but not as wide. Not sure, but 1931 Pierce Arrow might have used the same larger wheel.

Former brother in law had a 63, and I had a 63 Cutlass convertible. He had a consistent problem with engine pinging and run-on, due to engine's compression ratio and his unwillingness to step up to higher octane fuel. My Cutlass had the Aluminum V8 with the "Sim-Jim" automatic behind it. I loved the car hated the trans. There was a reason that the old timers referred to it as the "jerkomatic."

As I responded recently, I replace the 46# Interstate in my 1931 Studebaker President, with a 16# Optima. The difference in weight alone would have made the change worthwhile. The underfloor application location made lifting the large battery a real chore! But that was in 1996, so when that battery began to get a little logy while starting the straight eight, last year, I replaced it with an Optima from another car. The second battery did the job without issue. Then I did the math I had just replaced a 22 yo battery with one 16 yo. So longevity was the second plus. In twenty two years there had absolutely no corrosion, so that was probably even a bigger plus then then the first two. I'm not one to give up too quickly on something that has treated me well. So I took the 22 yo battery and put it in the 1950 Champion, and it worked just fine. So my challenge now is to see if I can outlive the old Optima!

We just had erected a three car metal carport, to add storage. Vary happy with the quality and really the whole process. Mary wanted to find out if there was a required permit-she got a yes/no answer, yes they are permitted type of structure but King Co. (Seattle area) was not issuing them. The work putting it up only took three hours. This was a week before an unprecedented, extremely late, and heavy February snowfall (33") so we had a chance to test it almost immediately. If you have room to park a car you have room for one of these. The three car style that we had erected cost about $2600, we wanted quality, but and we could have found one for less.

Sad to say that it's often the well heeled participants that really get the most benefit of the events leading up the Sunday's show. They often come with a crew who do the dirty work. I suppose if you show often enough at PB, like Ed seems to, you might be able to develop a consistent work schedule, that would leave some time to play. For me, as a one time participant, it just didn't work that way. I'm certainly not looking for sympathy, just trying aid in the perspective for those who have never had the opportunity to show on the big field. I wouldn't have missed it for the world!

First I would like to say that, unlike a large number of cars, IMO virtually any color looks great on a first gen Riviera. Each factory color crates it's own distinctive character, none of which is bad. Getting a read on the "best" color is simply impossibly. What it really gets down to is owner choice. What has always interested me is how contemporary car color schemes have a propensity to change the the color we choose for our vintage ride. Today's sea of black, white, silver, with a sprinkling of red, subconsciously color our tastes. In the 90's dark green was in vogue, in the 70's brown was in. Today both colors have just disappeared, and I'm doubtful that many would choose either of these colors for their vintage car. As an aside, I like dark green and I'm always impressed when a Riviera shows up in that color. Color is usually one of the last things that draws me to a car. It's all about condition, condition, condition-I usually learn to love any color if the car is right. I own a 1963 Riviera original Diplomat Blue with dark blue leather, which I've owned for twenty five years. Then I stumbled on a beautiful 22K mile 1965 in a garage, it was a no brainer, even though it was midnight blue with black interior. So now I own two Riviers, and both of them are dark blue, and neither will be changed as long as I'm still kicking. So experts can you tell me what were the most popular colors that were chosen by the new Riviera owners, when they were new? I'll bet it was significantly different then what we tend to like today. Bill

Victoria, If you are interested a young acquaintance in south Seattle that works in a commercial radiator shop. When the shop began doing mostly commercial radiator work, he began doing the old school type of work on the side. He does nice work and because he is a good friend of my nephew, his prices were more then reasonable, for the work he did for me. To date I have two cars with radiators he has reworked, and one gas tank. He was able to save the core for one of my 1937 Studebaker Presidents. It needed cleaning, and because the header piece needed to be removed to do the job, most said it was an impossible job. The brass header would be destroyed during it's removal. Reuse would be impossible, and the tolerances for openings were required to within the range of .001." He was able to build a jig and use an ancient machine to stamp the openings, in a new header piece, and solder each tube by hand. I haven't talked to Pat in some time but if you are interested I will contact him. Bill

Thirty years ago I rented my 1963 Ford pickup for a shoot of the "War of the Roses." I think that I was paid $250 per day. but the money certainly wasn't the allure. The truck was my work truck, recently painted and reasonably presentable but it was what it was-a work truck. If it had been a better vehicle my concerns might have been different, but I said what the hell, and went for it. It was a good experience, but sadly it didn't make the final cut, and I failed to take any pictures. I enjoyed the movie then, and still do. The theme of the movie proved to be a little more personally providential then I would have ever expected, though.

I've used them twice over the last four decades, the last time was thirty years ago. They have been an absolute essential part of my high end restoration. Glad to hear they are still in business.

As I look back at the 50's and 60's, that we lucky enough to have been brought up in, those times could not have ignored or walked away from cars if we had wanted to. It didn't matter in the least that our parents weren't part of the maturation process. It was a culture completely submerged in cars, sports and girls. It may not have been "American Graffiti" every day, but it was seldom more then the next weekend away. We weren't born into the hobby, we made the hobby.

I'm sounding like an Optima salesman-I am not. Virtually any six volt battery will start most cars so equipped. I played the battery game for decades. A standard lead-acid battery will last about 5 years before it starts to show signs of weakness, or began to sulfate rapidly. My failing was in hanging on to a battery longer then I should have. I often had to deal with the collateral damage to the battery box, inner fenders and cable ends when I finally got rid of the offending battery. The more important the car, the more difficult it was to rationalize the unnecessary damage. Switching over to Optima relieved me of most of my concerns regarding unnecessary damage. I still use L-A batteries but it is a calculated risk that I am willing to deal with, but not for the most important cars in the collection. Your car, your choice. The consequences of the choice you make today, you will be dealing with in five years.

Optima-for a car that you care about! I've been using them in the cars that really matter, for thirty years without collateral damage. I've told this story before, I hope it's worth repeating. In 1996 the Interstate battery in my 1931 Studebaker gave it up. I was showing the car that weekend, so I grabbed a new Optima that I had just gotten for another car. I replaced the 46# Interstate, under the floor, with a 16# Optima. I had no idea whether it would even start the straight eight in the President. Needn't have worried it was better then the Interstate, on it's best day! Last year while getting ready to place the car on display at a museum, the 22 yo battery seemed a little weak. Not wanting any problem I replace it with another Optima. The second battery worked great. Then I did the math, I had just replaced a 22yo battery with a 16yo battery. I took the 22yo bat. and put it in 6 cyl Studebaker Champion and it seems to work fine. So now the challenge to find out how long it will last. I only hope I live long enough to see the results.

If your car has developed that tendency to wander, or follow the separations in the road, you might get some benefit from a simple tire rotation. Also check to see that your wheels are running true (check the run-out). I have nothing against wanting your car to be the best that it can be, but are you just chasing a rainbow? It could be worthwhile knowing if you are chasing a problem or just want something better.

Sorry to say that "Fort Vancouver/Rose City Region," seems to have been inactive for some time. Over the last five years, I've tried to reignite a fire through this forum, but it may not be reaching the right people. I'd love to see the new generation pick up the dropped baton, but it doesn't look too promising. By the way don't forget Idaho and western Montana. The total area must be more the 5-6 thousand square miles. The CCCA and HCCA seem to be able tour the area, but not the AACA. Some years ago I tried to get some intervention for the national. I was given the name of the NW Regional director, who lived in Wisconsin! Maybe an important first step would be a geography lesson. Sorry to be so snarky, it's just a sign of my ongoing frustration. Bill

My guess is that a car museum may not be what you are looking to see, but if you have never been to the Nethercutt collection you should think about giving it a look.

Up until about fifteen years ago I would have not hesitate to say that 1975-95 was our golden age. That period ended when the cost of restoration, even work done by the owner, became so expensive, that fewer and fewer hobbyists ventured there. Then I began to realize that it all depended on who you were and how old you were. It now seems to me as the ageing Boomers are getting ready to pass on their legacy to the next generation. With less competition for the best restored and original cars, the next generation will have their pick, at real dollar prices that nobody could have dreamed of during the nineties. It is happening today, as we speak. So a new golden age may be upon us, but many of us will not be around to enjoy it. For those of you remaining it will be your time, I sincerely hope that you enjoy it the way we did.

With all due respect the last three pages of suggestions leave me a bit bewildered. Does anyone other then those of us who live here, even know that the Pacific NW exists? I have traveled this continent numerous times, and been overseas more times then I can count. I travel to see new places and revisit those places that I want to see again. Experience has taught me that very few who will read this have ever been here. When the southern part of western Canada is included, the area is huge, and mostly unexplored be the people here, so why no mention of wanting to see it?

I must be some older then some of the respondents here. So when loud music gets overwhelming, I just move farther away. As for the choice of music, I relish the chance to hear 50's music. While I enjoy some of the music that others here seem to be partial to, 50's music is largely forgotten.

For me there may be no perfect world, but what survives beats the alternatives. I'm happy to say I don't share your negative feelings regarding the gathering of car people. At this point, in our changing vintage car world, I feel fortunate to have a place where we can share our hobby with others. Bill

I'm not trying to take sides, just restore a little balance to the truck talk-which by all rights probably should have it's own thread. My nephew is a certified Ford diesel mechanic, and who is the best mechanic I know. He no longer works in the industry, but he can give an in-depth critique of anything out there. When Jon talks people listen, I know I do. So what does he drive and why? The truck he bought new is a 1996 Dodge. The other is a Dodge that he picked up, for little or nothing. It was a well used work truck with 350K on the odometer, when he got it. The first truck is in beautiful condition showing over 200K . The work truck shows 500K. Neither engine has ever had any major work done to it. So why does Ford diesel mechanic drive Dodges? In his words it's because of the "Cummins."