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ILIKECARS53

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Everything posted by ILIKECARS53

  1. Hey Jeff, What do the initials KPI mean?
  2. Give Automotive Restorations in Lebanon, New Jersey a call at 908 236 6400. They are right off 78 a few miles before 287.
  3. I agree with Spinneyhil except for one thing. He did not emphasize the picture taking enough. take lots and lots and lots of pictures. And when you think you have enough........ take some more!!! And make sure they are clear and everything you want to see is in the picture before you start taking any thing apart. Before digital cameras i would take the pictures, get them developed, make sure all pictures were what i needed then start disassembly. with the age of digital cameras the waiting process is over. good luck
  4. Try Roy Martin for the water temp gauge he can be reached at the following address and number 172 Laurel Hill Dr. South Burlington, VT 05403 (802) 862-6374
  5. great find for any car guy!
  6. I agree ....... keep it stock. Have seen transmissions and transmission parts for sale for 1940 Buick's. What series is the car?
  7. That car is too nice to part out!!! looks very solid. someone would want it
  8. Hi All, To confirm some of sean1997's comment......... I have a 1942 90 8 passenger sedan built in Flint.
  9. also make sure the connection at the starter is clean and tight
  10. Try Automotive Restoration in Lebanon, New Jersey. (Steve Babinsky) They work on all types of engines.
  11. I maybe stating the obvious here, but make sure you do all your homework on these cars. And I agree with buying one in the best condition. Engine rebuild, paint , and/or interior work will add serious money to the car if these areas need work.
  12. make sure you see examples of their work before you hand over parts for rechroming
  13. NOT SURE OF THE QUALITY YOU ARE LOOKING FOR ...... DO YOU WANT FRO A DRIVER TRAILER QUEEN OR CONCOURS TRY TLC IN GLEN COVE 516 532 4390 BUT THERE ARE OTHER ON THE ISLAND
  14. That body style came in either century series (model 66) or special (model 46) and both were came in 2 different versions. the century versions were as follows..... with a trunk, spare in the trunk and a small seat behind the front seat this was the 66-SO (3 passenger) . and the other was 66-SR which had a rumble seat and left side mount . this was known as a 2 passenger. the special versions were the same as the century but with different designations 3 passenger 46-SO and the 2 passenger 46-SR wheelbases century 122" and the special 118" hope this helps your search
  15. it will very easy on the Buick straight 8 to build up oil pressure. You must remove the distributor and once your do this you will see the top shaft of the oil pump. I used a gator grip with a drill. it fit right over the shaft and formed to the slot in the shaft. make sure you mark the distributor and block so you can easily put back in, if it had already been set up, or after you get pressure use the mark on the flywheel to TDC etc.
  16. used waldrons for my 1942 buick with no issues
  17. You can also try to get in touch with some members of the Buick Club and try to get some length measurements of the body but must be the same body style. I agree with Sean on the wheelbase measurement but it might be difficult on the 60 and 80 series, since there is only 3" difference. Whatever in turns out to be, it is a rare body style. If a 90 series 556 were made, if a 80 series 758 were made, if a 60 series 2887 were made and if a 50 series 4118 were produced. The figures are for USA production. There were some exported in each series but not many.
  18. I would also contact the closest AACA region in your area.
  19. looks the same as the one on my 1942. there a few things missing. the screws and clips that hold the wires on either side of the bakelite and the steel ball that fits inside the carb. Jim
  20. they are a supplier for heating and a/c equipment
  21. Mike, thanks for the advise. will let you know what happens. Jim
  22. Hi, Still working on the 1942 Buick Limited front end and need some more help. The front control arm bushings are not removable and according to the manual the full control arm must be replaced. That was well and good then but not now. There is no way to remove the shaft from the arm itself, except to cut the shaft or grind/drill out the rivets. I can buy replacement shaft but not sure they will fit. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Jim
  23. Heath, I agree with Bob, making your own wiring harness is easier than you think and less expensive. You can purchase everything you need from Rhode Island Wire. They are very helpful. Jim
  24. all, did the other side. now clean ready to clean 73 years of grease and send out the front shocks to be rebuilt.
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