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About theastronaut

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    100+ Posts
  • Birthday 07/20/1987

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  1. It's pretty rough, I'm surprised its this bad from how little rust the rest of the truck had.
  2. Thanks Gary! Digging deeper into the roof rust. This is looking from the inside over the door top. I cut out a section over the door to see inside better... Not good, so I started cutting the roof off. I trimmed right above the seam across the back of the cab to make easy access to the inner spot welds. I cut higher up on the sides, this shows the layers as they are when the roof is assembled- nowhere for condensation to escape between the inner and outer layers, and once the se
  3. More door work. The driver side inner door skin was cracked around the window felt area so I realigned the panel and welded it back together. To keep it from cracking again I bent shaped a 3/16" rod to fit inside in the corner out of the way of the felt clips. I only welded it to the inner flange so there won't be any "ghosting" of the welds showing through the paint later on. Corner finished.
  4. Thanks guys!! Does anyone near the upstate South Carolina area have a junk cab with a good roof skin? This one had something fall across the roof and do a lot of damage which I was planning on straightening but after looking over it closer Friday there is rust coming from the inside out near the driprail seam on both sides. A few areas have already rusted all the way through and poking it with a carbide scribe finds more weak spots along the edge, so it will be best to take the skin off and replace it. I have found a cab locally but it's too nice to cut up. PM me if you hav
  5. I pulled the doors out and went ahead and cut the door bottoms off to prepare for fixing the rust and lengthening the inner flange/outer skin. They turned out to be in pretty good shape with only the easy flat areas needing to be replaced. My next step will be getting the cab back on the frame, along with repro fenders so I can shrink/stretch the door skin and fender into one constant shape front to rear, then I can base the shape of the lower inner door frame flange off that shape. I'll also need the door and fender on the cab to set the length of the inner flange so the bottom
  6. Got both cab corners cut off, blasted, primed, repaired, and welded back in. I could've bought repro cab corners but I wanted to cut these out higher up to make access to the back of the welds easier, plus all the body lines are already in the right place on the original panel so going back in everything lined up exactly. I made a new lower section to weld in. I used a steel block and a chisel shaped hammer to make the drains. New panel welded in. Found a sp
  7. The rockers are in great shape but I cut them up anyway... Stock rocker profile- I made a cut in the 90* corner, hammer/dollied the edges flat, then flipped the cut off piece down to make a flat face but keep the inner stiffening edge. After welding and grinding the welds flat. Passenger side. These panels are galvanized and it's cold enough to not be able to weld with the shop doors open so I pulled out the ghetto weld
  8. The cab corners didn't have much rust but I wanted to cut them out anyway to make sure the hidden rust was taken care of. The left corner was also crunched and would be easier to straighten off the truck. Making a patch for the rusty spot. After blasting- bottom edge is wavy and doesn't match up well with the corner section. After straightening the flanges. Brushed with SPI epoxy to seal up the cavity.
  9. The next step was to finish the dash- shaving the glovebox/ashtray/radio and making vent bumps. Decided to use the centerline of the defrost vents to locate the two A/C vents in the middle of the dash panel. I messed up and didn't consider that there would be A/C vents added when I originally cut the blank dash panel so part of the vent bump was off the edge of the new panel. Reference on how much the bumps needed to be raised. Roughed out with a mallet and sand bag. The table on the new
  10. Next step on the dash was to figure out a way to blend in a flat spot to mount the A/C vent right in the middle of the very curved location where the ignition switch was. To keep the flat spot flat I bolted two pieced of MDF together and turned them down just larger than the OD of the A/C vent. After a lot of hammering, shrinking, stretching, and shaping to fit the contours of the dash... a shape started to form around the flat spot. I got started and kept going and didn't take pics of this process like I should've. This is a shape that
  11. Thanks Tom!! I finished up the dash layout today. The second pic shows how welding close to the edges makes the distortion more prevalant, third pic is after planishing to stretch out the weld zone. Old vs new layout. The ignition switch was moved from beside the cluster to under it, and the headlight and wiper switches were moved over to make room for it. One original hole on the left side was deleted. The right side was shaved and three 9/32 holes were added for the A/C controls. The spacing was modified from stock
  12. The filler neck hole needed to be shaved. The shape around it was flattened and a bit more square compared to the right side of the cab. I made a quick flexible shape pattern to compare both sides, and it also maps out exactly how much to stretch the new filler panel. First step was to roughly knock out a dent in the opposite side so the pattern would be accurate. Two layers of tape. The blue tape is low adhesion so it peels off easily with no risk of stretching the pattern as it comes off. The second layer is reinforced w
  13. Trucks are a huge part of the classic car scene in the US, they even get their own shows which can be even bigger than general car shows. The vast majority of our restoration work has been on trucks, they're super popular to build and modify. It looks nothing like the work I usually do on my own cars either lol. I wish I had time to spend on my own like I do for this. Thanks! More metalwork on the cab. The firewall had a lot of extra holes to fill in. It'll have a hydraulic clutch and an aftermarket wiring harness so none of those holes
  14. After welding the panel in, initial planishing of weld seam, and grinding the welds flat. Notice that I also lengthened and reshaped the upper edge of the door jam panel so that seam is in line with the upper corner of the dash edge. And then the process was done on the other side of the dash. This side was much easier since there was no transition into the cluster hump. The removed panel with a bit of tape added was sufficient for a template. Shaped on the english wheel to
  15. Thanks Roger! The dash was originally padded and had a separate trim piece at each end. The owner wants a painted dash with no pad or original trim pieces which leaves ugly dash corners when both are removed, so my next task was to smooth out the transition from the dash to the A-pillar and windshield pinchweld. Old edge of the dash cut out. The seams in the door jamb were pretty ugly as well so they were welded up and reshaped. I don't like fully shaving seams, I prefer the look of well defi
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