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theastronaut

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About theastronaut

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1987

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Anderson SC

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  1. Thanks!! I let the epoxy sit a few days to dry, then touched up the imperfections that I could find and shot a few coats of polyester primer. I made a block from three pieces of plexiglass that can flex to fit the sides of the ribs and flatten the bottom at the same time. All of the ribs are at slightly different heights so all of the sides are at different angles; I couldn't shape one durablock that fit all of the ribs like I did with the last F100.
  2. We were able to buy a Pullmax P7 since the last update. We had heard about a local Pullmax awhile back and had inquired about it but they weren't interested in selling it at the time. The owner contacted us a few weeks ago and said that they were ready to sell it so we made the deal and moved it to the shop. I'm looking into VFD's to run it at the moment, and have started cleaning it up. It came with a fence, circle cutting attachments, louver dies, center and offset tool holders, doming dies, nibbler dies, slotting dies, flanging dies, a beading die, and an offset flange dies, and a really ne
  3. Got the metalwork and rough bodywork on the bed floor finished and sealed with a couple coats of epoxy. I used the rear rib section that was over the gas tank to fill in the section where the round stamping was. I knew that the ribs were all different heights, but I didn't realize they also changed shape from front to rear slightly. I thought I could make a spreader for skim coating each rib to simplify spreading filler, but the shape of the ribs ended up being wider or narrower from end to end. This also meant that I couldn't make a sanding bl
  4. On to the next version of the car... I've always wanted a slammed VW on Fuchs so this car checked that off the wish list. I'm eventually going to sell it though, so I thought it would be best to go back to stock wheels/tires/suspension for that. I already had a set of stock smoothies so I blasted them and have them in epoxy primer, ready for a slight amount of bodywork and high build, then paint. It took awhile to figure out the correct color combination for a vert since most paint info I found was for sedans. I also found a really nice set of original VW/Lemmerz anodized aluminum trim ri
  5. Getting started back on this one... The owner brought back the finished frame, that let me mount the bed and fabricate a filler neck, along with repositioning the center gooseneck stamping to use as a flat spot for the gas cap. The frame- Coyote/Magnum T56 swapped with M2 front suspension and a four link in the rear. I made a template to cut exact matching size holes in the ribbed section over the tank and the center gooseneck stamping so that they could swap spots without excesive welding gaps. Also bought extra thin cut off wheels and slight
  6. I shot epoxy over the bare spots last Monday to seal them up, and let it sit all week before spraying Slick Sand Saturday night. This lets the epoxy dry fully so any shrinking has occurred before applying the poly primer, but before the epoxy has cured so the poly still bonds chemically. Mirka dry guide coat, ready for blocking.
  7. Got both sides skimmed and blocked. Getting the metal straight first meant I only needed to skim it once, then touch up a few areas. I tried something new; using spring steel spreaders but couldn't get the hang of them so a few spots were too thin on the first section I did. I switched back to normal spreaders for the rest of it. I blocked the upper part above the body line front to back, then blended the lower front area into the upper section, being careful to not make a low spot in the upper half. The transition from flat to round around the corners of raised wheel opening stam
  8. I would like to be allowed to post about replacing/upgrading the overly complicated, really expensive (1/3 the cost of what I paid for the whole car), ECU-assisted factory carburetor on my now-classic and matching numbers 1989 Ford Festiva to a period correct and very simple early 80's Ford Escort carburetor. I only did this to keep it on the road and be able to display it at car shows and car meets like Cars and Coffee. I'd hate to not have the ability to share my favorite collector car here because it's not "as it left the factory".
  9. I have the other side finished and both in epoxy primer now. It was sunk in almost 1/2" above the wheel opening, again mostly due to the braces pulling it inward too much. The rear corner needed reshaping towards the bottom, too much to just shrink it down flat. I made a few cuts to bring the bottom up and the side in, then welded it back up. After. Higher up there was damage around the taillight opening. There was a deep flange on the inside of the opening blocking acce
  10. Thanks, glad you're enjoying the build! My granddad bought a '69 F100 with (I think) a 240 new and it's still in the family, I'm hoping to get it back on the road one day.
  11. I have a new respect for anyone capable of metalfinishing large areas of old crunched metal. I’ve only worked metal to perfection on very small areas with lighter damage before this. The front section of this bedside had been giving me trouble so I decided to challenge myself and attempt to go farther than my usual “good enough to skim coat” straightening efforts. The grid is 8x10” and I’m only about halfway through it, and it’s still a little wavy from the heavy damage around it so I’ll have to go back over it again to correct the overall shape once all the major damage is smoothed out.
  12. I roughed in the bodywork on the inner bedsides and outer floor panels, stripped the cheap primer off the wheel tubs, and shot a couple coats of SPI epoxy. A great thing about SPI epoxy is that it's glossy enough to easily show all the places I missed. I started straightening the passenger outer bed side. I used a sanding block inside and out with 60 grit to find the highs/lows, then hammer/dolly to straighten and level the panel. Then DA sand it to remove the sanding marks, resand to find the smaller highs/lows, more hammer/dolly work... repeat
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