Frank Tate

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About Frank Tate

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  • Birthday 06/08/1958

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    toolnut1@aol.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Davidsonville, MD

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  1. Thanks guys. Trying to follow all the books and best practices, tips and tricks. It doesn't help that it is a 59/60 block with 55 heads and manifolds, etc. Like the Tbird specific water pump. Everything seemed to turn smoothly, but then once it was all together it got real notchy....if that is a word. Hard to break free and then stiff to turn. Got it down to the block with only the water pump still attached. Will pull that off and then go after the crank and cam thrust clearances to see if those are the problems. Rod/crank side clearances are right on the money at .007/.008.
  2. No worries Ed! Just a learning experience....I know I screwed something up, just gotta figure out what I did! lol
  3. Well, the guy in the shop responsible for assembling the engine (me) is now responsible for tearing it down and figuring out what he did wrong and correcting it. 🙄 I guess it is only fair that I am not going to pay myself for my crappy work....🤣
  4. Yup.....Have pulled it out and will go back through it and make sure all the clearances are correct. Dammit! Definitely a learning experience.
  5. Looks like a flywheel and starter nose gear to me Bernie....But I'm just a half a$$ed backyard mechanic. 😁
  6. So, I am asking this in the Technical section rather than the Ford section due to the Ford section seemingly being more of a parts for sale forum. I am working on a basket-case 55 TBird. It came to me in parts and I am slowly trying to resurrect it. It has a 292 YBlock that was sent out to the machine shop, along with the cylinder heads, crank, rods, heads, rockers and valves. The block and heads were cleaned up and pressure tested. The block bored 60 over with new pistons and rings. Heads redone with new valves, springs and rocker shafts. I got it back and put it all together using the YBlock rebuild book and of course, the various YBlock internet sites. Got it installed in the frame and wanted to get it started before I started hanging everything else on it. It seemed a little hard to turn over by hand, but I attributed that to the new rings and compression. When I installed the starter and tried, is seemed to turn over slowly without the plugs in it and very slowly with the plugs in it. I thought it may be the 60 year old starter, so I rebuilt that...no joy. So I bought a new 12volt starter and installed that. A little better, but not spinning it fast enough to start it. So I went looking for other issues. I have consistently pressurized the oil system and have oil up to the heads. Some folks I talked to have suggested the rings might be too tight, but according to my notes, they are within spec. Others have suggested the pushrods being adjusted too tight. So, I pulled the valve covers and pulled all the pushrods. They all look good, but I have 2 different types of pushrods. One is skinny and solid and the other is fat and tubular.. I think one is old style and one is new... But that got me thinking and I remembered that the block is not original to the care. My research shows that it is a 1959 292. The pushrods are for a 1955 292, while 1956 thru 1962 uses slightly shorter pushrods. The heads are 1955 292 TBird heads. Could the difficulty in spinning the engine be a result of the pushrods being too long? If not, then I guess I would need to tear it back down and build it back up again, double checking my clearances on all the bearing surfaces. Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have! Frank
  7. Couldn't it be something as simple as a C clamp? Just put a small pad on the outside of the piston where the screw pad would rest. The bonus is that you can hold the clamp in your vise thus freeing up both hands to position the bushing and tighten the screw to press the bushing in. Sort of like this: https://duckduckgo.com/l/?kh=-1&uddg=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FHeavy-Joint-Removal-Adapters-Trucks%2Fdp%2FB01N7CO50E%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB01N7CO50E Or a threaded rod with appropriately placed nut and washers. Frank
  8. I picked this up at an auction as part of a larger lot. I think it is some sort of leveling plate that attaches to the ways of a machine tool/lathe. It has no markings that I can see. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Frank
  9. If your friend wants their car restored, then they need to go to a reputable shop and pay them to do it. The Garage Squad is, imo, a little more realistic than some of the other shows. But they do not restore cars. They do get them up and running. Occasionally they upgrade systems with new parts or use aftermarket parts to make the vehicle functional. And they do it in about a week I think, so there is no way they can actually restore a car.
  10. You did what you needed to do at the time Bernie. I'm sure you will find a way to indulge your need to have something to be working on. 😉 Positive thoughts sent your way my friend!!
  11. Mike, It may be possible for you to use a hot pipe method of wood bending to straighten out that slight dip in the bows. Check this out. https://www.wwgoa.com/video/bending-wood-with-a-hot-pipe-000009/ That will give you an idea and I think there are other Youtube videos that may be more detailed. Good luck Frank
  12. 1955 TBird front suspension. $200 - Both sides, upper and lower A arms with spindles (one is slightly bent), backing plates, springs, spacers and mounting bolts. Mostly blasted and ready for paint or powdercoat. Used bump stops included...not shiny, but servicable. All new bushings included.1955 Power Steering Pump. $125 - Will fit most Yblock engines, but NOT TBird. Rebuilt and ready to install1955 Holley 4000 Teapot Carb. $175 - Fresh rebuild. Cleaned and soda blasted with new seals.