TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Dave, that oil looks as if it came straight out of a can, no way it was sucked up from engine. I think your explanation is most likely what occurred.
  2. I will preface this post by stating that I don't know anything about a '40. In my 55 Buick manual it states that the vacuum pump is a dual action pump which operates on both strokes and that one chamber "exhausts" into the intake manifold and the other chamber exhausts to the crankcase. Is it possible that your vacuum lines have been crossed? It pulls air in from wipers and pumps it into intake and crankcase. John
  3. :rolleyes:Dang! It must be that stinkin' vacuum modulator on the transmission!
  4. Hey, 3 port holes, must be a Special.
  5. Thank you MrEarl for the posting, Cheers to you Ben, keep on keepin' on! Very pleased you are doing ok.
  6. Paul, some of those bracketry bolts go into water jacket. Check to see if they have bottoms or blow some air into hole to check them. Any bolt holes into head or water jacket may need some dope on the threads to seal them or they will leak out from under bolt heads also.
  7. Charles, I am not sure of the 58 design but on the 55 Delco booster, that was true, however they had a weephole in the flange of the MC with a small bent nail or wire dangling from it to keep the hole open to drain the brake fluid and prevent the booster from sucking it up. At least that was the theory.
  8. Chris, what is your vacuum reading when pedal is depressed? The booster can be sealing at rest but leak like crazy when depressed or vice versa, depends on the failure. Still sounds like booster failure.
  9. If you mean you ran the engine for 5 minutes without oil pressure, I can't help you.
  10. Aw Mud, it will be fine for Colorado trip, just don't hit any harsh dips at high speed. Drive it till the headlights get out of adjustment.
  11. Shop manual outlines the procedure to adjust the anchor pin, maybe you should try that. If that doesn't fix it, re-adjust after problem is identified and corrected.
  12. Measure your old adjusters and compare to your new ones to see if they may be shorter. Check your rub pattern on the shoes to see if they are rubbing at the top at anchor pin or the bottom at adjuster. If only contacting at the bottom, the adjuster could be the problem. If you have full contact pattern, just too big.
  13. You cannot leave them tight, it will overheat and burn the shoes and could damage the drums. Make double sure that the shoes are seated properly and rest on the anchor pin at top. Try the other side and see if it is tight also, try another drum on the one you have together. If you bought standard size shoes and not oversize,, you will have to find a brake shop that can grind the shoes down a little to fit the drums. I would not grind the drums any more. A brake shop can measure the drum inside diameter and see where you are compared to specs.
  14. With multiple codes, check your schematic and see if those 2 sensors share a 5v supply or return. If either is shorted or open, it may affect all sensors that share. Remember that a return circuit is not necessarily common to ground, it is a return to the ECM. I am not certain on these but don't assume return is ground. ECMs commonly use the return circuit to monitor current flow (amperage) in some circuits.
  15. Ha Ha! Yep, that was me, my 264 2 bbl needs all the help I can give it.
  16. From your description I assume it is a damper with pulley attached. Doesn't your pulley seperate? Anyway, a slight groove and some rust should not disqualify it from being usable. They ran a rope seal, what kind of groove are you looking at? Maybe you need to post the pictures or the link so we might better judge what we can't see right now.
  17. Jacob, My first car was a '55 Special, that's the way I drove it and I drove it hard. I didn't have any trans trouble. I once had my brakes fail and the only way I could get the car slowed down quick enough to keep from running off a bridge into a creek was to drop it into REVERSE at about 40 mph. It wheel hopped and slid the tires a bit but got me slowed down. I then slipped it into drive and went on my way albeit a little more carefully. They are tougher than some people give them credit for.I don't advocate abusing a trans like that but I got away with it. I currently have a '55 and won't hesitate to use Low gear and shift if I want acceleration. Others will disagree but I haven't read of anyone actually experiencing a failure from the practice. It seems to be mostly anecdotal wisdom not to do it. Maybe someone with first hand experience will weigh in on the subject. The dynaflow was known to fail the reverse band or anchor pin when abused so I don't advocate dropping into reverse while in forward motion.
  18. Did you have a ground wire from screw on sending unit mounting to the body or frame? The sending unit must be grounded. The sender wire to the guage uses the variable resistance to make the guage sweep, usually low resistance (low ohms at empty) and high ressistance at full. The guage itself has a power supply terminal and the sender terminal. the wire that goes to tank completes the circuit to ground thru the variable resistor tank unit, therefore if the unit is not grounded, it cannot complete the circuit. The sender wire may be brown and sometimes you can find a connector inside or near the trunk that you can unplug and test for voltage or ground it to test guage reaction. Just guessing, you did not identify what you are working on. It is not a John Deere or Toro is it?
  19. Chris, if your car has a large vacuum storage tank for the booster with a check valve inline, the reservoir will hold maximum attained vacuum for the booster. If it hits 20" vacuum revved up or decel, the checkvalve will hold that in the reservoir for the next brake application. Soooo, 13" at idle is not critical for brake performance unless you have made more than 1 application at idle. That is assuming that the checkvalve and canister circuit AND the booster is not leaking. You could simply suck on the line to the brakes and see if it holds vacuum, it will be quite obvious if there is a leak in the system. You could also do this test with a hand vacuum pump to determine integrity of booster and reservoir.
  20. Thank you for the update, it is appreciated. Some folks won't show the courtesy of letting us know what the fix was, again. THANK YOU
  21. If vibration is engine or converter, it should show up at same critical rpm out of gear or in any gear, not just 45 mph. If drivetrain related or wheels, it will only show up at critical road speed and less at other speeds. If engine miss, it may be felt more or less with engine load and rpm and be quite variable. If it vibrates out of gear at a certain rpm, that may correlate to 45 mph but would need a tach to confirm if vibration always shows up at same engine rpm.
  22. Born at home on the farm way out in the sticks in '51. Doctor came out to the house in a Jeep. *I don't know for sure but I think I was the only one of 7 kids that was born at home and there were 3 older than me.
  23. Bravo Pete! I would look at your pics but they are too big for me on dial-up at 15 min each.
  24. Yes, 45 is critical speed for lock-up and will not stay in lockup if engine coolant temp is not above threshold for shift, appx 160*? It should not shift back and forth at steady state throttle and speed unless it is getting unstable feedback from a sensor like TPS, MAF OR MAP. Check for codes first and then vacuum leaks. Monitor data stream and look for anomolies. TPS can be checked in data stream with engine not running. Data log while it is surging would be a good idea and then you can study it for irregularities. Maybe it is just time for plugs and wires if it is missing or shuddering at that speed when you roll into the throttle.