TexasJohn55

Assume nothing until you put a meter on the battery, first with engine off to check battery-should be 12.5-12.7v on hot battery, then crank it up and check idling, should be in the 13.5v range. Turn on lights and heater blower and recheck to see if it holds at or above base battery voltage of 12.5. Volt meter in dash may show low like my '88 olds which only shows appx 12.9 on highway.

It shakes like a hound dog sh---ing peach seeds! I bet if you raised the hood and watched, you would see the engine flopping like a fish when trying to take off.

Clutch chatter, once fully engaged, it is ok. Stuff is moving around and affecting the clutch linkage. As the engine torques over, angles change and clutch linkage and engagement cannot be controlled. I suspect you could feel the clutch pedal pulsing also. I would check crankshaft end play just for grins, 1/8" end play might cause problems.

Are you running an electric pump or the original mechanical pump? If the fuel pressure is too high, it can overcome the carb needle and blow it off seat causing flooding. You may need to check fuel pressure at the carb, if it is in spec, the problem is in the carb.

Good to know, thanks for the feedback.

The harmonic balancer will not cause this problem. The inner member has the slots for the crank sensor, the outer member driven by the rubber is mounted on a bearing and will not wobble even with the rubber ripped out, it will only knock at idle. I have had failure on 2 different cars that knocked but ran just fine. I have had idle problems, one was the ISC gummed up and needed cleaning. The other was surging and dying at idle, it was the MAF sensor..

Ditto, built a '73 RX3.

Tell him Padget, just the obvious, fix it.

Type A, Dexron, Dexron 2, Dexron 3, Dexron/Mercon. Listed in reverse order of availability, Type A was original, not sure you can still find it.

You mentioned shudder and slow pick up. That could also be due to the drive clutch pack not holding on acceleration which could be the piston seal or low fluid pressure. A low fluid level might also cavitate the pump momentarily and sucking air and drop the line pressure which holds in the drive clutch. If it accelerates better under light to moderate throttle and shudders when throttled harder, that might be the clutch pack slipping. I am assuming this only happens in Drive and not in Low range. Tell us more history.

Have you taken it back to him after failure and had it re-checked?

I vote pump failure.

Pete, that looks to me like a Detroit Diesel 2 cycle diesel fuel injector. Maybe it was a Master to check calibration of the test stand? Common engine models that used this style would be the inline and vee series 53, 6-71, 8v71, 12v71 etc. ( The supercharged inline 6-71 was commonly called a 238 for it's hp rating and the 8vee71 was called a 318. Note that the series designation was for the number of cylinders + engine config + cubic inch per cylinder, thus a 6-71 had 426ci and the 8v71 had 568ci.)

Ronnie and I were typing at the same time.

Like he said, check for power on wire A and E with key on, this will resolve questions of trans being powered up. Other terminals are momentarily grounded to click solenoids. The white wire, terminal B shows to be a PWM circuit, be careful not to ground it more than momentarily, it will smoke. You could check the circuits resistance first before you try to power check any solenoids. The pwm solenoid will show shorted with a reading of less than 1 ohm, there may be specs in your book for checked solenoids.

Like he said, check for power on wire A and E with key on, this will resolve questions of trans being powered up. Other terminals are momentarily grounded to click solenoids.

Yes

Brett, if you have low gear, my question is probably irrelevant. Be advised that your trans will default to "limp mode" if you blow the fuse or lose power to the transmission. Limp mode will be evident by the trans only having 2nd and 3rd gear, no low gear or drive, but will start off in 2nd and will shift to 3rd but will not shift hi gear. The most noticeable symptom will be that it is sluggish taking off from standstill because it is 2nd gear and will give the impression that it is slipping until you get rolling good. It would have same symptom whether in Drive/OD on take off. If you have a wiring schematic, it will show the wiring designation of each wire at the trans connector. Using that, you may be able to momentarily power each solenoid and listen for the click. Your first post requested info on testing solenoids and no one has addressed that yet. I have not personally done that so I waited for some one more knowleadgeable to step in. John To test trans solenoids, you would need an identical connector from salvage yard car that you could plug into your trans and have access to power each circuit as desired. I don't know for sure if '91 used 12v dc for powering solenoids or whether it may be using PWM drivers. Be advised that if they are PULSE WIDTH MODULATED solenoids, continous 12v direct current will smoke the solenoid in seconds! IT WILL ACT LIKE A DIRECT SHORT!

Does your A/C compressor engage when turned on? I know it is an odd question, just answer it.

Richard, I had the same problem on a '88 Olds 98, well almost same. My daughter got pulled over twice for left brake light not working sometimes. He gave a warning both times. Every time I looked at it, it was working on both bulbs and signal worked. I puzzled over it a while and finally checked the turn signal switch. After using left signal and letting it return to neutral position, the left brake light would not come on. When I lifted the stalk and let it go, it remained in neutral position and brake light worked. Barely pull down toward left signal position and release, brake lights did not work. So, my problem is in column or bad switch. Sure was a puzzler.

your link to aol webmail.

Link doesn't work for me, it says "Gaah! Page not found"

Brian, you didn't say what temp thermostat you installed and under what conditions you see 160 vs what conditions you see 200. Generally 200 is fine and heat soak will cause temp to spike on shutdown because circulation and cooling stop. Hard to speculate beyond that without more specifics.

I am not saying that you have to stand on the brake, just that when revved in Park, the car will rock forward. Hard on parking pawl? Mine is more of a temporary surge and then subsides, don't think it will pull the car. I don't understand about the rear pump causing power transmission.