TexasJohn55

Put a scanner on it first and retrieve all recorded codes. Then read active data stream cold and hot to see if temps for coolant and intake air temp seem normal. You can read alot of data, get someone who is familiar with data stream readings to give an opinion on them. Don't know if your engine and trans symptoms are related or not.

You are right of course, I was thinking backward, I replaced some axles and ran into that problem with the tonewheels.

But the tonewheel does. You need them if you have ABS.

Confirm temperature with an infrared temp gun or leave cap off and warm it up with another guage bulb in the top of the radiator. Premium fuel does not have the high octane rating as it did in years past before no-lead. It likely requires at least 93 octane. Todays premium needs a timing adjustment. Check timing by the book, back it off 2* and drive it. If necessary, back off another 2*. Start first at factory spec and retard until it quits pinging. Be sure you check the vacuum advance unit to be sure it advances and retards with change in vacuum.

Well, when you get your fuel pressure guage and a spark tester, you will likely figure it out quickly.

Just a thought, have you tried holding the throttle down a little while trying to start it?

A sticky injector just doesn't make sense to me. It would not dump all the fuel pressure while pump is running, it would only give maybe a puff of black smoke on startup. If the fuel rail drained, it would refill quickly and would have the same symptom cold or hot. As for pulling the rails with the injectors, that is no piece of cake, makes me wonder if rp1967 has actually ever done that. Not sure that it is even possible to remove and maintain pressurization.

Probably the gear on the motor, could be both.

Beautiful!

A cracked/broken flexplate is also a possibility. The starter gear is visible with the flywheel cover off.Once you get it running again, you will be able to watch starter gear mesh with ring gear and see if it retracts when starter is disengaged. You will need someone to start it while you watch.. I can't play the video, I don't have Flash Player or HTML5, wish I could.

Please refer to post #6. Has the ring gear been rubbing on the cover you removed, is there a shiny pattern inside? Are the transmission mounting bolts tight to the engine? Have you removed the linkage from the shift lever and determined what is tight? How much distance is there from the ring gear to the starter pinion gear? If you just bump the starter, does it return to a safe clearance from the ring gear? None of these require the engine to be running or trans pan be put back up. I have yet to understand how mounts can cause the noise issue if the fan is not rubbing and the car is not moving. Mount problems can cause linkage binding, alignment issues and shifter issues. It is possible that you have a failure in the torque converter and some pieces are floating around. Also check to be sure your engine oil dipstick is not hitting something when running. Drain the converter and watch for any metal particles. Clean the pan and screen and change the fluid. Refill to capacity given in manual except 2 pints and start it up again. Top off after running.

Parking pawl can't click if the car is not rolling.

Could be the flexplate ring gear rubbing the cover. I would also check all the trans mounting bolts to the engine to be sure they are tight. Disconnect shift linkage at the trans lever and operate both independently to see what is tight.

Robert, I read somewhere that the Chicago area and Michigan in general had the highest auto insurance rates in the Country due to the requirement for Personal Injury protection, how is that working out?

I like your model, she doesn't look like a 1952 though.

Cuul!

Bob is correct but if you have the straight eight, maybe the flapper valve is stuck closed or there is a restriction in piping or muffler.

Paul, ideally, the condensor cools the vapor down and it becomes a liquid. You need liquid to the expansion valve where it passes thru the orifice and the pressure drop vaporizes it and gives up heat, hence cold gas in the evaporator. After shutdown, all the liquid vaporizes, hence the bubbles in the sight glass. Like the man said, it is normal.

Turn the engine until you are on low cam of the eccentric.

You must get the idle back down before you can adjust anything, back off the idle screw.

Looks to me that you need to start over with the idle mixture screws. See what the book says as a starting point to back them off. Bottom both screws and make a note how far each one was out from lightly bottomed. Back them both out equally to book specs, maybe 1 1/2 or 2 turns each and adjust from there for max vacuum or rpm. Adjust idle speed screw for 450-500 in park, some readjust of mixture screws may be required if idle was too high. Sorry if I missed that you already adjusted idle mixture by the book, That is always the recommended procedure. The reason you need the idle lower than 450 to set timing is to be certain the mechanical advance is out of the picture and not affecting timing. OOPS! NTX5467 AND I WERE BOTH TYPING AT THE SAME TIME.

Mine also leaks around glass on left corner, haven't decided what type of sealer to try yet. I think a sealer that will flow and fill would work better than silicone, silicone requires that you get a 100% seal and it doesn't flow well, if you miss a spot, it leaks.

Would resizing your photos to 100kb each help with bandwidth usage?

Engine hot? The choke butterfly is completely closed.

Robert, We know where you bought the tires. My whitewalls are much older I'm sure and they are not cracking but it hasn't been driven that much. I do have some "flat spot" sidewall cracking from being old and sitting but not into the whitewalls.