TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. You need to disconnect and cap vacuum hose going to the reservoir to see if that stops the noise or affects idle. If you have a vacuum booster, cap that hose and try it.
  2. The only way to get all that sediment and scale out is to remove all the core plugs from the sides of the block. Dig it all out and flush with a water hose and strong stream. Then run it without a thermostat and keep cleaning out your panty hose filter. You won't get a strong flow from the water pump with the stat in place. Drain and flush the coolant several times until it drains out clear. Your heater core also needs to be back flushed.
  3. Pinging or detonation is caused by an abnormal flame front travel, basicly an uncontrolled explosion. It should not be confused with "pre-ignition" which can be caused by a hot spot in the combustion chamber igniting the fuel charge before the plug delivers the spark. This can be caused by a carbon build up or even localized overheating which maintains a heat source capable of igniting the fuel charge prematurely.
  4. Make sure the trans vent tube is open.
  5. Ha! My 264 was lucky to throw gravel much less squall the tires!
  6. Hello "B",.............The short answer is No. The '55 dynaflow is all the same for the Special and Century and some components were unique to the 55 model. I am told that the Roadmaster and Super dynaflows were appx 1" longer but I cannot confirm that independently. A couple components internally may have been changed mid-year but not affecting application, simply production improvements.
  7. Hi Ed, Copied from "my" '55 Shop Manual. Pg 5-4 Control DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION d. Direct Drive (D) Range Direct Drive range is to be used for all forward driving conditions except as specified for low range. ........... e. Low (L) Range Low range is used only when the engine is under an exceptionally heavy load, such as in deep snow or sand or on long steep grades. The shift between Low and Direct Drive ranges may be made while the car is in forward motion, but the D to L shift must never be made at speeds above 40 MPH. The variable pitch stator remains in the "performance" position regardless of throttle position in Low range. I deem a "full throttle" start to gain speed as an "exceptionally heavy load";) And yes, I did know that you can push start a Dynaflow because of the rear pump.
  8. Agreed Willie types faster than I do making my post somewhat redundant.
  9. Oil bath efficiency is due largely to 2 things: 1) the airflow is initally reversed 180* against gravity as it enters and hits the oil in the sump and dumps the majority of the dirt into the pan. The airflow then has to constanly alter as is goes thru the wetted mesh which strips even more dirt. 2) The oil in the sump and on the mesh helps capture and hold the dirt. The majority of the dirt is then washed back down from the mesh into the sump. Each time high velocity sucks oil up onto the mesh and then low velocity and shutdown allows the oil to drain back carrying the dirt with it. Proper maintenance and oil level is critical to the oil bath's efficiency. Too little oil in the sump will not wet the mesh and allow capture and self-cleaning. Too much oil will allow the oil to be drawn all the way thru the element thereby carrying the dirt with it under high velocity situations. Each oil bath air cleaner is designed for a specific air flow range which dictates that the air filter be matched to the engine size, much the same as paper elements are.
  10. Hogwash! That is the only way I drove my '55 when I was a kid, never hurt it. I even once threw it into reverse at 40 mph when my brake pedal went to the floor. After barking the tires some and getting slowed down I put it back in Drive and luckily didn't hurt it. I DON'Trecommend that practice. Lucky I guess.
  11. Are you using 2 copper washers each, one on each side? Install the bolt without one washer to see if the bolt tries to bottom before getting tight. If it leaves the line loose, add another washer for total of 3. The threads may not be deep enough or the bolts don't match the caliper. ?????
  12. Don't know about the Olds but the 55 Buick used the same fluid as the Dynaflow, Type A. I now use Dexron/Mercon.
  13. Step 1: replace the bendix, address other possibilities after you get it cranking.
  14. Soapy water and a single edge razor blade.
  15. Robert, the problem is the drive clutch on the starter, sometimes called the bendix. You will need to pull the starter and replace the drive assembly.
  16. As an addition to all the good advice already given, check your fan tips and shroud for any signs of rubbing, that would account for the grinding noise and confirm mount problems.
  17. I use "FastStone Photo Resizer" and it works great. I downloaded it free after googling "free photo resizer". I generally reduce a 2-3mb pic down to 60-100 kb for posting. Dial up takes 15 minutes to load a 3 mb pic, only a few seconds at 60 kb. Do the math It also has other features in addition to resizing.
  18. Congratulations to all the honorees, and orneries.
  19. To find the miss, crank up cold and begin feeling of the exhaust ports, the offending cylinder will remain cold or be very slow to warm up with the others. Is there anything else connected to the vacuum fitting you used to check intake vacuum? Very low intake vacuum readings like that may be due to extremely retarded valve timing (not ignition timing). Causes could be in front gear set or even an extremely worn keyway if the crank gear is not clamped to prevent movement. Retarded valve timing could significantly affect idle quality and speed and may require adjusting idle mixture and increasing the idle setting with idle adjustment screw. Retarded valve timing typically shows up as very low torque and power at low engine speeds but improves with engine rpm. A steady reading of 9" is not likely worn rings or cylinders unless it fogs blue smoke and drinks oil. EDIT: IF YOU ARE USING PORTED VACUUM, DISREGARD THIS POST AND CHECK MANIFOLD VACUUM. INFORMATION GIVEN MAY BE VALID BUT NOT APPLICABLE TO YOUR PROBLEM.....
  20. If you want durability and long life, spend the extra money and get a stainless steel muffler. They will cost an extra $100.
  21. In my opinion, it is like ice water on a hot summer's day, it doesn't get much better. You may consider a break-in lube on the camshaft lobes and lifters.
  22. Bravo! Now re-check for fuel leaks from electric pump forward just to be safe.
  23. Just pull the vacuum hose off at the modulator or engine and see if there is fluid in it.
  24. If the shoes are new, replace both front rubber brake hoses..