TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. But also a new hero to be proud of! That Sergeant at Arms did his job, a man to be proud of.
  2. Keith, pretty car, pretty "colors" too..............TJ55
  3. Bernie, I think she is "HOT"!!!!
  4. Did you suggest a hearing test? maybe the stereo is turned up too high and she wears gloves!
  5. Item C still needs to be looked at, nearly all original are going to have some splitting even if not failed.
  6. It took me 3 minutes to absorb and comprehend that statement but it is a convincing argument. None the less..............? How's that for riding the fence?
  7. I don't go to Vegas and I don't play the lottery. This is a tuff one but I will go 51% Bob and 49% Mike. Do I win anything in this deal?
  8. After testing for gas supply while first cranking, it is likely that the carburetor is draining. It can't drain back thru the needle and seat at the inlet so it has to be draining thru the bottom of the float chamber/housing. Remove the carb after running and it is full of fuel. Check the bottom of the carb for obvious fuel leaks. You may have to dry it good and let it set for a few minutes, then inspect for leaks.
  9. I see from your pics that fall has arrived there, not much color or leaves falling in Texas yet.
  10. Put a scanner on it and read codes. Then use live data to monitor sensors, this will take some time to understand what is normal and what is not. It is probably OBD1 and you may not have comprehensive live data to look at without special scanner. Typically on a 3800, it is almost certainly plug wires or weak coil pack. If it is rough at idle, you might catch it misfiring by using an inline spark tester on each plug wire at the coil packs. If not missing at idle, replace all plug wires and recheck on highway.
  11. Joe, now tune in a weak station, that is the ultimate test.
  12. Panhard bar, yes. On my 55, I did not unbolt springs, they will allow you to roll it back enough for clearance. I only lifted the rear of the car to maximum suspension travel to leave the wheels just touching the floor before unhooking stuff. You may have to raise the front end higher for clearance to remove transmission and get it out from under the car. The stardard may be wrestled out off the jack but a dynaflow is super heavy and would be nice to leave on jack to roll out. Anyway, you're not pulling tranny, just need to access linkage, etc. Edit: Oh yeah, the shocks are what limit suspension travel and will have to be disconnected from the frame at the end of shock lever before you can roll the differential back.
  13. Bleeders are always on top, can't bleed air any other way. Won't work with cylinder cocked 90* to vertical instead of horizontal.
  14. Bernie, you are a HOOT!! I sometimes have a hard time following your unique writing style but I always enjoy your posts!.........John
  15. Re-read my last post above: The negative cable obviously has an extra ground wire incorporated which is supposed to be grounded to the body. If the primary was bolted to the body panel it would still not "smoke" due to excessive current, only the smaller auxilliary ground could do that when the primary ground is not connected or functional. As for the insulation getting hot or burning, who cares, it is a ground cable.
  16. To Lee, original poster: I WILL GO AHEAD AND STATE WHAT IS ALREADY OBVIOUS FOR OUR INFORMED READERS. The smaller guage ground wire from the neg battery terminal was never intended to carry the amperage load of the starter, it is a backup for accessories in case you lose ground from the engine block to the body. The auxilliary ground is a much smaller guage cable. The primary ground cable is bolted to the engine and then smaller ground straps go from engine to the body. Check to be sure that the primary cable is bolted to the engine block or sturdy component on the engine, you have obviously lost that connection which is making the aux cable carry the starter load. If it is in place, clean it and the connection point,, it may just be loose. If the cable is green and swollen from acid contamination, REPLACE IT.
  17. TO LEE, ORIGINAL POSTER: If you have an auxilliary neg cable from the battery connection, it is normally a smaller quage wire used as a backup ground for accessories in case you lose a ground strap from the engine to the body. If the primary ground cable is not bolted to the engine, all of the current flow required for the starter will have to go thru the body and then find a path to the starter. The secondary cable is not large enough to carry that load. Check your primary large neg cable to be sure it is bolted to the ENGINE, if it is, remove and clean cable and connection point on engine. While checking that, be sure you have a smaller ground strap from engine to a body panel.
  18. See if any springs can be easily rotated by hand, then grab each valve spring retainer with channeloks or vice grips and see if any will pull out of the head.You could alsomeasure the distance from retainer to the spring seat surface on the head to see if any are too high. Rapping each one with a hammer will ensure each returns to seat normally each time. Don't try to drive them thru the head because some pistons may be near top of travel and the valve will strike the piston. PS: If any valves high enough to have little or no tension on the spring AND the spring is not broken, that valve has dropped the head off the stem and will usually pull out of the head. The two low valves are simply badly bent. PPS: lift out each pushtube one at a time and roll them on a flat surface, make note of which ones are bent.
  19. With dual carbs, is it possible that the idle butterfly settings are incorrect? This might cause one carb to pull most of the air thru it and induce fueling while the other is contributing very little. (If the idle mixture setting is too lean and the butterfly is opened too far to compensate.) Add that scenario to the other carb having the butterfly tightly closed. I am assuming that your primary carb is the one dribbling. Have you synchronized both carbs?
  20. unbolt and remove the entire rocker assembly. Look for a valve spring that sets up higher than the others, that will be the one that dropped the head off the valve. If you find one spring setting lower than the others, that one is bent and is probably on the same cylinder. Pulling the head off that bank would be next step. Please post some pics after removing rocker assembly, I can't download videos with my setup.
  21. If you have a spark tester or an inductive pick-up timing light, you can monitor each plug wire while idling to see if you have any with intermittent spark. If you do, revisit your damper for bent components or sensor for alignment issues.