TexasJohn55

Kevin, I see ICM was replaced and fixed problems, are we to assume that you reused the same old used coils?

If you have no "check engine" light or codes, I concur on basic tune-up. Ignition misfires may not show any codes and the 3800 is known to have troublesome ignition which is usually plug wires or coils. Misfires usually occur at low rpm and high load such as you describe.

Time for an update. Still running good, Moral of the story: Engine will not run right and MAF CANNOT READ CORRECTLY IF THE HONEYCOMB SCREEN IS MISSING OR DAMAGED OR UPSETS THE LAMINAR AIR FLOW ACROSS THE SENSOR.

another failure.

68rivgs, Yes on both counts. I noticed that all the options on the above tool bar were ghosted out, this time they are accessible. I will try again. OK, It did not upload from my pc but I clicked on "my media" and was able to attach a photo that I had previously uploaded to "my attachments". Well,...On my edit screen, it shows [shared media=core:attachments:651558] but didn't show when posted.

test, didn't work for me.

I don't have a parts book but you could drain the oil pan and measure back oil and compare to your pan capacity according to your shop manual capacity chart and see if it is correct. Your leaks are not related but may be high blowby or simply seal failures.

Willis, good theorizing but not very useful on new needle and seat.

Overdrive or converter "Lock up"? Either way, I don't know, just needed clarification.

Maximum fuel pressure is determined by the diaphram SPRING, the other components only determine flow rates.

Time for a spark tester and go from there. If spark is good, check to see if fuel injectors are shutting down.

Yep, manual is a must but that doesn't help you much right now. Gently pry out the center cap, remove the nut and washer and all components and keep in original order. The horn button is adjustable for sensitivity. You can disconnect the single connector wire at the bottom of the steering column before repairs to keep the horn from blowing while you are working on it. Use a wheel puller if you have to remove the steering wheel.

I think all alternators have diodes and rectifier bridge. That year would have had an external regulator instead of built in.

Update: Replaced the air filter housing and honeycomb screen on intake. Plugged in the MAF and cranked it up. Runs sweet again, MAF apparently not damaged. Moral of the story: Engine will not run right and MAF CANNOT READ CORRECTLY IF THE HONEYCOMB SCREEN IS MISSING OR DAMAGED OR UPSETS THE LAMINAR AIR FLOW ACROSS THE SENSOR. Cause of air filter fire not determined.

Drove around town yesterday, OK. 150 mile trip today, still OK. Looks like the pump may have fixed it for now. Just a reminder, this is not a Reatta, it is a 1998 Olds 88 3800. I cannot find a pressure switch and O'Reilly does not list a switch for this model.

Installed new rebuilt pump this morning, still ok cold, haven't driven enough to get good and hot yet. Will update in a few days.

"All the main and connecting rods were trashed as was the crank surface. Evidently whoever "rebuilt" the engine installed all the pistons backwards which had the oil spurt holes oiling the inside of the block instead of the crankshaft. I had to completely rebuild the entire motor correctly this time." Me thinks that the oil spurt holes are on the rods, usually to oil the wrist pins. Reversing the rods or pistons should have no ill effect on the rod and main bearings.........But I could be wrong, I am not intimate with that particular engine. Trashed bearings are usually caused by "trash", as in filtering failure or severe low oil level,etc. I probably should have stayed out of this because it may not be relevant as to what caused your failure or to Pete's issues.

Not a Reatta but similar systems. '98 Olds 88 w/3800. Rebuilt power rack and pinion steering unit after developing a leak past the input shaft seal on top. This was early 2014 and it worked fine. Had a small leak at pump or pressure line couple months later that I had put off fixing. June of 2014 I installed a rebuilt pump and new pressure line, still ok.A couple weeks ago the car lost steering at idle, was 1 pint low on fluid. It had not started whining any more than usual like is normal when low. Topped off fluid and regained steering assist but it didn't feel quite right. A couple times on the way home it tried to lose assist at idle but would free up with a little rpm. Wife has been driving 2 weeks. Today it was fine when she left for errands but after it warmed up she lost steering at idle again. I checked it as soon as she wrestled it into the driveway. You could not turn it at idle, was better when revved up but still hard to turn. I let it cool down for 3 hrs and rechecked, seemed ok cold but loses assist after it's hot. Pump has lifetime warranty so I am going to replace pump first, then steering box if that doesn't fix it. I will keep you updated after I determine whether it was low pump capacity or steering rack bypassing. It does not slip the belt, it has no pressure switch or cooler, it is still full.If anyone has experienced this, I would be glad to hear about it. The only other symptom I had noticed was that when turning hard either direction while backing up I would feel a "shift" or tug on the steering wheel as I was close to steering stop/max turn. I felt it again when easing forward as I started to straighten up. I checked for loose suspension, steering mounting,tie rods etc. I felt like the whole subframe was shifting when wheels were dragging each other sideways. I don't know when this started, just something I had noticed. It may have been after resealing the steering rack..? I have always had what I consider abnormal shoulder wear on front tires and it is not driven aggressively. I usually have to junk tires with 50% tread because the shoulders wear thru from front end. Alignment did not help.

Don't know John, probably bought it at A.Z.. It calls for an A974C AC Delco. Just a rectangular pleated element, appx 7 5/8 x 6" with wire mesh support screen on clean air side.

Don't think so, backfire could not get thru honeycomb and to the air filter anyway, it is a good 14" to air cleaner. Fire appeared to start on "dirty air" side of filter. In the years I drove it, it never backfired, only miss under load with bad wires or coil which is not happening now.

Without stating exact specs, 40 is close enough, 20 don't get it. You may see a little less with vacuum on regulator at idle.

The fire started in the air filter pleats and burned appx 1/3 of surface area. No electrical or external signs. He couldn't see anything wrong, sis told him it had been smoking at the air filter box after it died, when he opened it up he found the damage. Son said maybe a hot ember also...? The snorkel was not damaged. She drove it 75 mi home and is still driving it with the MAF unplugged and I am rounding up parts to fix it.

Update: Son said the fire started on the dirty air intake side at the snorkel, no foreign material found, air cleaner was clean. Melted plastic air box and damaged AIT sensor. Honeycomb melted and ingested. Wouldn't start because of bad connection on ground post of side terminal. He cleaned out what was left of the honeycomb and cleaned the MAF. It ran at 2000 when cranked up so he had to disconnect the MAF. He thinks it may run ok with a new honeycomb. Can't get pics to upload.

I wanted to start here as it seems to be the best place for 3800 questions. Daughter just had her '88 Olds 3800 quit running and called her brother who lived closer than me. She said that guages were normal, only thing she noticed was the volt meter bouncing when it died and wouldn't restart. My son sent me pictures of the air cleaner partially burned and the honey-comb melted on the intake. He did finally get it cranked up and to the house. I will try to upload pics. Anyone ever heard of this happening?.