TexasJohn55

Members
  • Content Count

    1,057
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. Let me add this: I hesitate to use 1 full qt with a small capacity system because of the lowering of overall viscosity, I would however be comfortable with 1qt if oil is changed to 15w40 to maintain protection from camshaft and lifter scuffing. Just my opinion, to be on the safe side.
  2. If I recall correctly, that engine doesn't hold but 4 1/2 or 5 qts so I would add 1 pint without draining any. That would only put it a little over full. You could drain 1 pint if you prefer first. The volatiles will evaporate some over time. Drive it several hundred miles if you can, when you see results, drain and change. You may see the oil darken drasticly and change when it looks nasty. It may take a couple treatments. As it loosens deposits in the engine the filter will plug quicker than normal, you may want to change filter once between oil changes. Yes to what John just said.
  3. I will assume that you cleared oil drain back holes in the heads when you did the valve seals and that you changed the oil. Add 1 qt of Marvel Mystery Oil and drive it. If rings have stuck, it will take awhile to dissolve all the varnish and free them up.
  4. Mud, I feel for you brother. I have an 88 Olds 98 Touring Sedan that I keep as a backup for grown kids to drive, gave it to one daughter for graduation, she sold to another daughter that needed a car. It has no paint left on it, looks worse than most in the junkyard, but is very dependable and a joy to drive. It is hard to get rid of a car that has served you well. For me, I can't stand the idea of junking a car that has so many good and reusable components. It seems like such a waste, But when no-one else sees any value in it you can't sell it for much more than junk price. Most people are more concerned with looks than dependability.
  5. I still cannot upload attachments! After replacing PCV valve and removing vacuum from fuel regulator and boosting pressure from 36 psi at idle to 45 psi at all times, my STFT numbers are 3-5 at hot idle and it passed emissions with no codes. P0171 gone for now. I may later try hooking back vacuum line to regulator and see if problem returns. The one unknown is whether the PCV valve had any effect on it running lean. It did rattle and appeared ok. The new MAP sensor reads a little lower than the original I tore up, 29.2 ambient instead of 29.6 or 29.8. Weather change can affect that. I don't anticipate that little difference is a factor on tuning. Car seems to drive the same at 45 or 36 psi, really cannot tell any difference. Still don't know what was the definitive cause of P0171 running lean at idle. I will update thread if I learn anything worth passing along. Thanks for the help and future comments on subject are welcome.............John
  6. Gasoline or diesel fuel will work just fine, even WD-40. Using compressed air is fine just don't intentionally try to spin it up to high rpm.
  7. Yeah, I always resize to appx 60 KB before attempting upload.
  8. Your converter could be at fault but drainback doesn't condemn the converter. It is more likely that the ring seals are bad on the trans shaft input. Metal interlocking rings are durable but are breakable if forced. Teflon are sometimes used and they will not stand any abuse. They must be installed and sized correctly. There is no way to tell without pulling the converter if any are damaged. Do you know what style was used? To determine leak, you must find it first........To determine if it is a drain back problem you must first determine where the normal full mark is on the dipstick after topping off warm and then shutting it down 5 minutes to check "not running" level. Mark the stick when determined. Now let it set another month and check fluid level before you crank it up, it should be within a 1/2 inch of mark. Did the trans operate normally after installation? Did the converter take awhile to fill before it would engage properly this time.?
  9. Thanks Harry, I CANNOT UPLOAD ANY ATTACHMENTS!! It goes thru the motions, Add files, browse computer, select another to add, shows file names in boxes, CLICK UPLOAD, whirlygig goes round and round then stops, NO FILES ADDED.........???? I even tried deleting some of stored attachments, it showed they are gone, then next time I brought up attachments, they are still there, ??????? Am I the only one having trouble? I will search threads so we don't have to clutter this thread with irrelevant BS.
  10. Dan, My fuel pressure was 14 psi above yours so maybe not so critical. I have left vacuum off the regulator and test drove 30 miles mixed. It has not reset 3 of the readiness monitors: catalyst, evap system and heated O2. I recorded data stream while driving and at idle, my STFT numbers are considerably better, down to 5 or 6 at idle hot. Looks like when monitors reset I can get an inspection. About that PCV valve!! Yes I decided to replace it. BEWARE! My MAP sensor had "grown" to the fitting, despite being as gentle as possible twisting back and forth, the sensor seperated and came off in two pieces! I would not have persisted except the 5/8 hex under the sensor had to be accessible to twist out the PCV hold-down fitting. I tried patching it back together but no dice, it read 3.2 under all conditions. New sensor was $57,xx with tax. I will post new data later with it running on 45 psi. John
  11. I put guages on it today, hope my guages are accurate. I checked vacuum first, was 15" on warm engine start up, after 3 or 4 minutes idling it had creeped up to 17.5 -18". Hmm, either the idle air bleed or the crankcase evacuating from PCV? Anyway, not real concerned about that. Hooked up fuel pressure guage to schrader, keyed on, bumped to 45 psi and after 2-3 seconds it snapped back to 40 psi and held steady. Cranked it up and it idled on 36 psi, jumped to 45 when vacuum line pulled off regulator. I hooked up my OBD2 scanner and monitored idle STFT readings. Had 22.7 +-2 idling on 36 psi. Pulled vacuum hose off regulator and capped line, had STFT avg of 16.4% +-2 at 45 psi fuel pressure. Obviously, higher fuel pressures will bring my STFT numbers closer to desired. I have left vacuum reference line off the regulator for now to see if it will reset lean code of P0171. I have seen fuel pressure specs listed as 40-47 and 47-55 psi, so whose spec is correct?I don't have genuine GM literature to reference. Are my fuel pressure readings enough or do I chase vacuum leaks, R & I intake manifold, etc? I will report back after driving enough to reset all readiness monitors.
  12. cruise at 65 scan.pdf Here is some more data stream from last year @ 65 mph, looks good to me. I don't know if it would be good reference for someone fighting a problem on series2 3800's. Remember, it runs lean at idle.
  13. OK,OK, I will recheck my fuel pressure. Odd thing is that it is worse running lean at idle, increase in rpm produces a corresponding decrease in fuel trim in the driveway or on the highway. That is why a vacuum leak made sense. I will report back after fuel pressure check.
  14. Try this, Adjust the front brakes up tight so you cannot rotate the wheel by hand and test the feel of the brake pedal. If you have a firm high pedal, there you go!
  15. ???? If that '52 does not have shrouded wheel cylinders with stop tabs, you will blow the guts out on the garage floor. The problem with low pedal and no pressure is either TOO MUCH travel, low volume capacity of master cylinder or air in the system.(or if you have a balloon for pressure line) I have seen very rough bored wheel cylinders cause the cup and piston to stick enough that it would not retract after first application. That would be obvious because the shoes would not be resting on the anchor point. Slim chance of this happening though.
  16. Well it has been a year and time for inspection sticker. Car has been running flawlessly and still gets good mileage. Random P0171 didn't bother me, knowing it was running lean at idle and short term fuel trim at near zero while at speed so I never replaced any components last year. I have been doing some more data stream study. Snapshot of code indicates it sets at idle with high fuel trim numbers. Monitoring data stream shows high +trim at low idle and progressively improves with rpm to zero out at 2000 or above. If vacuum line is pulled at idle, fuel trim maxes out at 26%, returns to lower trim numbers with lines hooked back up. I tried wafting a propane torch all around intake manifold and throttle body while idling and got no response on fuel trim or O2 sensor voltage change. It idles at 800+- with 9.2 to 10" MAP. Reads 29.5 MAP engine off. MAF reads .430+- at idle and tapping on it causes no change in response. I have done some more research and found that a vacuum leak is most likely cause with these kind of readings. It was also suggested that low fuel pressure could sometimes cause it. I have checked fuel pressure in last 6 mos and it was ok. This year it has also set a P0137 for low voltage on rear O2 sensor, I may have a bad connection or sensor there but it did not reset after erasing it yet. I posted here because of this forums intimate knowledge of the 3800. I really didn't want to rehash everything because I have not replaced the MAF sensor yet, it seems reliable and consistent. Has anyone personally experienced this on an OBD2 Vehicle???.................................Thanks, John
  17. So if I understand you correctly, the original 56 axle failed the front splines and torque tube drive splines 2 weeks ago. You then modified your spare 57 setup and installed it 2 wks later and have road tested it? Is the pump you referenced in the differential?
  18. Paul, if you have access to the guage in the dash, it is easy. Remove the brown wire, guage should peg out. Ground the brown wire terminal and guage should read low, E or below. Providing you have 12v on the other terminal of course, key on. 20 ohm at sender sounds more like empty range that full, full should read higher, like 60 or 70 maybe, I don't know exactly.
  19. I like the pic of A&W, reminds me of when I was 17 and at the local one in Bowling Green in my 1st 55 Special 2dr.
  20. I am not sure on these cars but some solenoids are built so you can remove and flip the contact plate over for a fresh surface. The brass post/studs may also need a little filing. As for sticking, like Bernie said.
  21. That IS an odd problem. I can't imagine how someone could "crosswire" those circuits between the door locks and trunk release, that would lead me to think first that the remote "module" might be bad but I am no expert on those and I don't have a wiring schematic to look at. The remote having the same response would seem to indicate that the remote is not the issue. This is going to be interesting.
  22. Thank you one and all, God bless America and may America bless God for the Country we are blessed to live in. John
  23. David, I recognize you as a somewhat regular on this forum, I am absolutely amazed you were not aware of the near 100% failure rate of the dampers on the 3800 and the symptom of a knock at idle. Also surprised you did not post before all the work. Remove your belt, grab the pulley on the damper and rotate it back and forth to verify your failure. It should clunk when it hits the internal stop, I have even been able to grab the belt with both hands and achieve the same results without removing belt. Replacing the damper should be well within the DIY range if you have a good impact wrench to remove the bolt which is torqued at over 200 ft lb. I will admit that getting the damper to slide off is difficult without a special puller. I have been able to tap it with a brass drift at rear bottom of pulley and slowly work it off the crank. DO NOT SHOVE SCREWDRIVERS AND PRY BARS BEHIND PULLEY AND TRY TO PRY IT OFF!!!!!