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M1842

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Everything posted by M1842

  1. Those motor mounts are enough to scare a person to death!
  2. Interesting, I have the exact opposite on my 55. I have drive and reverse but not Low. I know the thrust pad is bad but may try Old Tank's test. Mark
  3. I watched this yesterday as well as many of his other videos over the last year. He's a good mechanic and entertainer as well. Uffda!
  4. I don't remember these books, I was reading the Encyclopedia Brown series, Man from UNCLE books, and "The Mystery of the Lost Mine" in the mid 60s'. Mark
  5. Thought I would post a picture of the offending shock absorber where it is welded onto the control arm. Welds look too solid to me to break off with a cold chisel so I am back to the angle grinder with a metal cutting disk. Mark
  6. I finished up my work on the new lower control arm. I put it back together with new bushings, grease seals, and new rubber bumper. I should have taken pictures of my setup to get the shaft back in. I used two bar spreader/clamps to move the ends of the arm apart. Put a bolt through one of the shaft bolts with about an inch sticking up. Then placed a large socket on the end to allow the shaft to move down as far as needed. Used a clamp on the bolt and socket to move shaft enough to clear the other end and get both ends of the shaft into the bushing holes. After that, it was easy to add the bushings and torque to 100 ft/lbs. Then add zerk fittings and grease the bushings. It worked well and in a controlled fashion, too. Impressed the wife and demonstrated that i need and use my tools. Sometimes in unorthodox manners!
  7. Disappearing winning eBay bidders is not just a car problem. I have had the same issues with musical instruments and vintage military uniforms. Bidders never respond to my emails and I end up reporting it to eBay. On the positive side, I usually get a better price the second time around. I think some people do it just to mess with people.
  8. Cleaned up the two old bushings and each of them has 4 areas of wear distributed around through the outside threads, wonder if that means they have already been swapped around once? Mark
  9. Looks like a good start there. Let us know when you start working on it. Mark
  10. I finally got the lower inner arm shaft taken apart. I had to find my vice and mount it to my work table then had to go buy a 1 1/4" socket. Used my 24" breaker bar and the bushings came out with a little muscle. Both bushings have a worn spot on the outside threads, it is parallel to the bushings, about 3/16" wide and crosses all the threads almost down to the bottom of the thread. I am assuming this is wear and not some kind of intentional machining. The shaft looks good on both ends as do the inner threads on the bushing. Mark
  11. Nice video, I'm watching all the videos I can on torque ball seal replacement to get my self psyched to do it on my old 55. Mark
  12. Sadly, I didn't take pictures of cars in the junkyards back in about 1981-82 when I was out looking for parts for a 69 Nova. I saw a 1969 Corvair convertible, Ford Anglia of unknown date, 1959 Jaguar Mark IX Saloon in yards in Northern VA. Saw a 1968 Olds Toronado in a yard in Southern Md, front clip was gone but the drive train was intact. There was a yard in Sykesville, MD that had a section of 30s and 40s cars, most no longer had drive trains and were sitting in the ground up to their axles, the sheet metal was egg shell thin and floors were completely gone. For a quick moment I thought about trying to buy some complete dashboards but didn't have the cash to do it.
  13. Outstanding work!! Gives a feller confidence he can tackle something smaller than that! Mark
  14. There is usually and eject button. If you just pull the tape you risk pulling the tape out of the cartridge. There were also demagnitizing probes for use with reel to reel tape players that will work in an 8 track.
  15. So I have my new control arm now and I am wondering if I should go ahead and replace the lower control arm bushings before I install the unit. The arm came from a junk yard in Wisconsin and is very clean and but there is noticeable play of the shaft inside the bushings. When the lower shaft is parallel to the floor I can left the shaft upwards inside the bushings. I can't move the shaft forward or backward through the bushings. The shaft will turn through about 120 degrees of rotation and then stops. Lube it up and install or buy a new shaft and bushings first? Mark
  16. My parents had a 1966 Oldsmobile Delta 88 with Comfortron. It never really worked well even when new. The sensor was in the dash cover and on a sunny winter day, it wanted to blow cold air.
  17. Glad you bought your car back, sounds like a fabulous car!
  18. Thanks, Old Tank, I will give that a try. Mark
  19. That was one of my thoughts, linkage that is. I know at one point, Park didn't work and then it did. I believe the transmission thrust mount is degraded. Mark
  20. Not the usual question about low gear in Dynaflow, I know how drive works. In this case. Shifting into low does nothing. Reverse causes a little clunk as does drive. Low has no clunk, and does not move the car regardless of RPM. It might as well be another neutral. Wondering if there might be an easy fix without dropping the transmission. I have been living without low since I bought the car 4 years ago. Mark
  21. While you are there, the cost of the hoses is minimal and doesn't add much time. Mark
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