M1842

I have been doing the sums, lol

Thank you for your advice, sir! So it sounds like all new pushrods and rocker arms are in order, so far. I will check the shafts for scoring and wear. I'll put the micrometer on them to see how much variation there is along the shaft, if I don't see obvious damage. Tomorrow I should know what kind of shape the lifters are in.

I made the decision to make the plunge to open up the lifter valley. Got the intake and carburetor off as a unit. Unbolted the cover and loosened it all the way around. But the draft tube is stuck in the cover. I assume this should come apart easily. I'm going to heat the join seam with heat and Kroil it and pray that cracks the corrosion and I can disconnect it and pull the cover. Looking at the push rods they all have a sharp protrusion on the top end where it contacts the rocker arm. Right in the center of the end. Is this normal or bad wear? Contemplating whether I should just bite the bullet and pull the heads for rebuilding. Pull the exhaust manifolds off and replace the exhaust system (it needs it). I don't know the history of this engine. Odometer shows 42k miles but has been broken for an unknown period of time. Could have anywhere from 42k to more than 142k miles. Mark

Think I've made the decision to open the valley up so I can inspect the lifters and cam lobes.

I was thinking about, we'll see what the shafts look like when I take them apart. Pulled the left assembly out today and found 2 more worn rocker arms.

Pulled the right rocker arm shaft and the rocker arm that I could move did have a depression worn in by the valve stem. Push rod looked OK. Found another rocker arm that was worn on cylinder 1. So I have two rocker arms on order and will proceed with the left bank rocker arms.

That would be great, the yards around here have crushed anything more than 12 years old.

Did a dry compression test today, all cylinders came in between 130 and 135 PSI. Checked the valve train and one rocker arm on cylinder 5 moves very slightly under finger pressure. I will pull that rocker arm shaft to inspect the parts.

Any luck? Mark

Nice tip! I would not have thought of that.

First worked on leaning out the fuel mixture. Then put the transmission in reverse (car is up on stands with 3 wheels mounted). And lo and behold the reverse lights decided to work for the first time ever. I had to clean up the socket on the left side as it was mighty dim, but it came back full strength. Today was more involved. First, I had to back the dashpot out as it was pushing too much on the throttle. Then adjust the throttle screw. Then replaced all the sparkalators, the old ones were not too bad but showed how rich it had been running. Then I saw a paragraph in the shop manual talking about the order the wires should be installed in the wire holders. Hmmmm. Yep, checked out the wires and yes, they were installed improperly (PO). Redid the order in the wire grommets. Started the car and bang. It sounded and ran better than I expected. I know if you get sparkplug wires going to the wrong plug you won't be having a great day. But did not expect that much difference just from position in the wire holder. Had to do the right and the left banks. Then I thought, I have new reflectors for the taillights to replace the faded and broken ones. So 8 small screws, two 1/2" bolts, and 7 mounting threaded rods later, I was able to replace the reflectors. The body pads fell apart, so I have ordered new ones. While I am waiting, I'll free up the nuts on the threaded rods so I can install the rods first and then fasten bolts from inside. Next job will be to change the oil and oil filter. Mark

Thanks!

Mainly, I need the top mounting bracket that is on the headlight bucket to hold the bezel on. If you have one with the bottom rusted out, that would be fine. But a complete bucket with both brackets intact is fine.

Just pulled the bezels off my car and the upper brackets that the bezel mounting screws screw into are missing, the stubs of the rivets/screws for the brackets are there but the brackets are gone. Does anyone know what these are normally called and where I might find some? Photos show the location for the upper bracket and the still installed lower bracket. I don't know if the upper and lower brackets are the same.

I bought a spare pair of manifolds to work on for my 55. I measured the new tube a .250" and worked up to .250" bit. Of course I found the tube was a loose fit in the manifold but I expect I can expand that part of the tube to be tight. I will also have to replace the steel plate over the zig zag section on the manifold as it rusted out. Can I drill and tap for screws to hold the new plate on? Just wondering if that will work with cast iron. Mark

Great description and pictures, I know I will have to do the motor mounts in my 55 someday. Your insights are very useful.

Thanks!

I started my Special today, first start of the year. Ran it till the radiator was hot. Probably 15 to 20 minutes. Temp gauge read right in the middle between hot and cold. When I opened the rad cap it appeared the coolant had risen from its cold level as marked on the outside to within .25" of the overflow in the neck. I didn't see any indication of coolant flow. There was some steam coming from the coolant. Wondering if this indicates a thermostat stuck in the closed position or a weak water pump. Or maybe completely fine? Mark

I was just wondering how you were doing. Glad you got it fixed! Mark

Sorry to hear this, when I saw his user name, I knew it was worth reading. God speed, Dave!

This was a great way to start my day. Congrats to you and your reborn Lincoln!!!

I wish I could help with this but I have yet to pull my steering wheel. Though I need to get in and replace the copper horn contact that is on the actual steering shaft inside the column. Putting that job off for now.

Do you have the service manual? Well worth the money and available as a reprint.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174446841808?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=C7DMUyZfTB6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=0NiGVwRPQ9G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This is a dashpot, mounts on the manifold near the carb.

For that money it should have a professionally built and installed LS engine with upgraded trans and rear end.