RockinRiviDad

Other than the LED bulbs & the new electronic flasher (which looks the same as the stock flasher) I didn’t have to “add” or “rewire” anything. It was “plug & play” as they say

I bought my “dimmable” LED’s from Superbright also. I didn’t install them right away. By the time I got around to installing them & found out my LED’s didn’t dim either it was too late to return them. I thought I bought the wrong ones. Now your “shining new light” on the subject . So it might be my headlight switch. I’ll will try that.

This broken horn bar hub was what was left in the wood wheel u gave me. U can see where both bars once lived. Another friend of mine had an original horn bar with the crack in the same place. I failed to snap a pic of that one

Oh yeah…there’s that too 🤣

Ooooooh…I just sat in my Riv & figured out what u said. This brain fart was the effects of too much “Mary Jane” in my life when I was young. Kids…take note…its not worth it haha carry on folks…nothing to see here 🤦🏻‍♂️😜

Yes. Your right. But for cars like our Riv’s without shoulder belts & ONLY lap belts, I would think it would help to have the inertia thing on the lap belt. Maybe not? 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

Inertia…that’s the term. Thx Has there been any aftermarket retractors made with the “inertia” built in to be used as a replacement for our classic cars?

Did any first-gen seat belt retractors have the “auto lock” when pulled to fast. Not sure how to describe it. When putting on your seat belt on new cars it locks if u pull too fast which is a safety thing to keep us in our seat when/if in an accident. Is this just a new car thing?

Thank U sir...& thx for all the direction u have provided

again...sorry for the late reply...I have an AWESOME excuse this time...I am a brand new Grandpa (woo WHOO). My daughter gave birth to a beautiful baby girl. I don’t wanna be “that” guy & post baby pix haha. As Rivieras are beautiful cars they don’t stand a chance against this little baby girl haha @65VerdeGS I have heard some guys get the original cracked horn bar repaired. U gotta find a guy who can weld pot metal. Have u tried that? I reached out to buickbonehead (Rick Rawls) & sent him pix of the differences I found. He did not know who made the narrower one & could not confirm that the one I have was one of his. But he did say it looked like his work. I am confident it is his work just from comparing stories & fitment. I was being a cheapskate years ago when these horn bars cost (dont quote me on this) $200?? I now paid $350...ouch!!! This damn car is expensive. Thank U so much for that steering wheel repair link. I’m still building up the courage to do the repair myself while I sort out other projects.

Looking good!! Nice work!! Cant wait to see the finished product.

thx for the pointers 👍🏼

because I’m too cheap to pay to rechrome my wheels 😆😆😆

Dammit!! Because of this thread & thx to @arnulfo de l.a. for sending me the link, 4 used 853’s followed me home today for $260. Two are in better shape than mine.

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$400? Good get That sounds like a smoking deal. Maybe I’ll look for a set to replace my rusty wheels 😬

thank U sir Sorry for replying so late, busy week, I didn’t get a chance to measure for u until now. 12-3/4” is the width of my horn bar. I didn’t think to measure the narrower one when I had it here. I’m guessing the narrower version is 1/4” less which isn’t much. But my eye caught it when I mounted it to the steering wheel. It didn’t fill the steering wheel cut-out as nice as the wider one. Plus, the ends were rounded over much more than the wider one. So yes, I preferred the “look” of the wider one. Functionality: they both do the job. But if u search on this forum u will hear many people having issues with some horn bars not activating the horn without mods. Two solutions were to leave screws loose &/or grinding the mounting plate thinner. The arms of the narrower horn bar I had also weren’t bent right. They did not sit up past the steering wheel cutout. One sat below the cutout & one sat slightly above. One suggestion I got was to bend the arms myself to fix it. That’s like getting your bumpers chromed before they get straightened. Grinding, leaving screws loose & bending chromed steel did NOT sound appealing to me. Especially, when these horn bars cost so much & many guys said their horn bars didn’t have any issues. I had to dig deeper. @buickbonehead is the main guy reproducing the near perfect wider horn bars. Unfortunately, he did not have any for sale. He did mention that there is someone out there who copied his version but he doesn’t know the guy. When I showed him pix of the narrow version he agreed it did not look like his work. Good idea on the steering wheel epoxy repair article. I will look for that. I’ll look in the Hemming’s too, thx. YouTube has a couple how-to vids & @kreed gave me a few pointers from when he once did it. Thx Ken. I have not built up the courage. Nor have I gotten over the excitement of actually having a faux wood wheel on my car to take it off & experiment with that repair 😆

Was this horn issue ever resolved?

😆…👍🏼…I had to look up the definition. But I guess your right 😆

Cool video 👍🏼 Thx for sharing I’ve seen Clark Corvairs seat covers for Rivi’s on my friends car. Very nice, great quality.

x2 I couldn’t have said it better

@Turbinator…thank u… DIY’ers beware. It’s been said here before. Good results can be achieved with a rattle can. But how long will it last? We will see. This isn’t my daily driver. So it should last a little bit

Has anyone on this thread tried the Chrome Plating Co in Texas that was mention earlier?

My simpleton DIY driver quality approach: clean, mask & spray with rattle can Spraying comes natural to me…I’m Mexican…😝