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Steve U

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  1. I don’t think this is a repro, at least a full repro from the discoloring and wear marks. Sure enough the spring is flat. I think it was screwed down tight for many years and that flattened it. Any idea how concave the spring should be? Can this spring be salvaged? When the spring is in its holder, I can make it “spring” and make a click, but the movement is only 1/16th if an inch or so. When all the parts are assembled, you can see that there is no give.
  2. Here are some photos of the wheel. According to the shop manual diagram, all the parts are there. The connector pin seems to be stuck in the steering wheel column. Or is that the Spring and the connector has somehow been lost? When the horn bar is assembled, the "wings" are not flush with the slots in the wheel, which you can see in the "Wheel from above" photo, another indication that something is off, I think. And I have to ask, what does "N.L." mean in the diagram? Thanks again! Steve
  3. Thanks for all the suggestions. While I don't think the wheel is original to the car, it is an original piece. The actuator bar is non-magnetic, which might indicate it is pot metal. I made a video of me working on the wheel, available here: https://vimeo.com/417023375/7cfe6ce15b The actuator pin works, but does not extend into the space very far. How far is it supposed to extend and how do you get it out? Thanks again for all your help.
  4. First, I hope that everyone is staying healthy out there. I'm spending my time trying to clear up some glitches with my 1965 Riviera. It's the standard two-note horn and they both work. When I disassemble the wooden steering wheel and actuator bar, the horns will sound when the pressure is relieved on the spring and insulator. When I reassemble everything and snug up the screws, there is little movement in the actuator bar and the horns do not work. All the parts are accounted for and assembled in the correct order in position. I can't get it to work when the screws are tight,
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