RockinRiviDad

I just pulled my Rally wheels out a week ago. I am considering grinding down the register ring for them to slip over my front rotors (rather than cutting it off). If I can work this out then I will consider having my wheels restored also. So, I too, am curious on where to send my wheels. Two local shops gave me quotes of $1200-1450. Not sure if that is good or bad.

Wow! 👏🏼👍🏼

Not sure of my timeline but I began my package tray install about a year ago. I’m still not finished haha. It needs a ton of work (bondo) that I am not sure I wanna do. I have a fiberglass tray that I bought from the gent who once repop’d them. His health was deteriorating at the time & he sold me what he explained was a poor example of his work. For $50 I was ok with that because my cardboard one was horrible & I wanted to install 6x9’s also like one guy mentioned. As I started my install I realized the fitment SUCKED. I wished I had a better tray to start with so I called Clark’s. I told her I wanted to cut holes for speakers in tray but HATED the thought of ruining one of their super nice $365 unit. The lady (I forgot her name) said she sells bare/uncovered trays for guys like me even the the website states otherwise. She called it a Raw Package Tray & gave me the part number & cost which I wrote down. I should’ve wrote her name too. I didn’t buy one yet. I came up with a few janky fixes to mine for now. As for the 3 screws that a lot of u guys are concerned with, someone said it, u dont “need” the 3 screws. I haven’t installed any of the pieces to secure my tray in place. NO screws, NO metal side trim pieces next to sail panels, NO metal trim pieces next to seats that extend up onto package tray, NO Velcro...I haven’t even cut the slots for the factory speaker grill to slip into. My tray literally is simply just laying there snuggly between two rear seats Part #R92TNB, Price $259

I have crappy door jamb switches that I was considering sending to Wolfgang. I’ve opened mine up to try & rebuild them myself & I couldn’t get them right. My lights were doing what u are describing your lights are doing. U might have a faulty rebuilt switch 🤷🏻‍♂️. For this reason, a little voice in my head keeps reminding me that the brand new evil-bay switches might be a better option

Correct. It stated not to glue the middle to allow for expansion. The instructions also said to run a “pencil size bead across all edges”. At the time, I thought that was large bead. But I interpreted “edges” as entire front & rear of dash pad, along left & right sides & finally around the speaker opening. They must be selling bigger tubes of glue now with the DashTop or u didn’t run a “pencil size bead”. looking good tho. I used scrap 1/2” bar stock & clamped it along the edges to hold it firmly. Ed’s sandbag idea is cool. I’ll have to try that on something someday

Where is that “most frustrating project” thread that someone promised. Taking the driver side fresh air vent out has to be one of the worst 😩. At least it is with a complete car. I shoulda did this when my car was apart. If only someone here would’ve warned me. I might’ve been ok with simply opening the window for fresh air 🤦🏻‍♂️ I had to take the E brake mechanism out & the main electrical harness running thru that area didn’t help with getting the vent out. This F’ing car keeps fighting the beautification process haha. She must be a ‘hood rat. What do they say? U can take the car out of the ghetto, but u can’t take the ghetto out of the car?? 🤣 Tom said “it’s unusual for the insulation to come out in one piece”. So that makes this PITA car very rare, right? Just kidding 😆 As u can see the insulation has two different shapes. I can’t imagine anyone wanting a template of these. They are hidden & NO ONE can see them.

Dammit! I didn’t know. I just ordered other parts from Gene yesterday 🤦🏻‍♂️

Yes. Thank u. U are correct. I wasn’t very clear. My vents are not held on with screws. My vents are held on to the panel with 2 smooth head rivets (for lack of a better term) & one screw. The one screw goes thru the grill & holds the panel to the vent Someday I will replace my worn out kick panels & drill out the rivets to remove them from the old panel. But once I do that what do the 2 new screws screw in to that replace the rivets?? There are no clips like there is on the bottom one. U can see the clip on the vent housing in the pic I posted. I would like to see the T nuts that XFrame found as replacements for the rivets

Great custom detail 👍🏼. I love the wood grain on your veneer too 👍🏼

I would be more than happy to make a template & send it to someone who wants to repro them. I don’t have the ability to do that. Lemme know if someone is interested. I haven’t pulled driver side one yet. I wonder if it’s the same shape. Stay tuned

I’m glad I could help others learn while I’m over here MF’ing this damn car each time I take on a project 🤣 Yes. I will scrape off old seam sealer. I will use strip caulking I bought. I’m sure the stuff u have will work great too I didn’t even think about asbestos 😳. Good call. I’m definitely trashing it now post a pic of your cool T bolts. I noticed that the screw kit some of us bought from Mr G’s has 3 Phillips head screws per kick panel vent. left me scratching my head

I think they call those ‘core support bushings’

I like to use my vents regularly. But I’ve noticed that the insulation inside of that cavity (behind the vent door) has fallen off. It now gets trapped by the vent door not allowing me to completely close vents. I took vent doors off, pulled the insulation out & inspected the cavity. Minor surface rust, minor accumulation of dirt in there. I shop vac’d the dirt out. I plan to clean & spray some Rustoleum on the surface rust areas. Questions: What have u guys used to replace the fiberglass insulation? I don’t wanna use fiberglass. One buddy told me to stick sound deadener in there. But I’m thinking a closed cell foam mat like Product over the sound deadener too?

I can’t speak for what thickness veneer u will need. I found it simpler to order a kit from any of the previous vendors mentioned. They are already the right thickness I personally did not “slide” my trim back on. I was afraid to scratch my veneer. So I pushed them head on by hand until I heard the “click” of the tab engaging the trim edge. I did need a gentle “tap” to get them back on at a couple spots.

Beware when using this process. Old man, U may have gotten lucky. Congrats. But the problem I’ve seen with this process is that the “death grip” that I mentioned that the tabs have on the trim can/will bend your trim slightly at the contact area. Then when u go to reinstall it the trim won’t engage the tab like it once did.

Hope this helps. Here is a pic of my backing plate with the wood & trim taken off. There are tiny tabs protruding up that have a death grip on the sharp stainless trim edge. Take two of your plastic pry tools, one next to each tab. U only need to slip the tool in under the trim enough to free trim from that tab. U can see it happen. U will need to leave the pry tool in place, holding trim up away from that tab. Then take a little tapping block & tap trim off with your pry tools still in place. Done. hope that makes sense

Side note: don’t post on the AACA section 😬

I can’t speak for the Jamco kit. But a friend of mine did a 4 wheel disc con on his 64. I’ll have to check to see what kit he used & get back to u I’d LOVE to see u start a “Air Ride Install” thread for us. Post lots of pix please 🙏🏼😬

That sounds like the topic of your next thread 😆. Thats actually not a bad idea tho. Start the thread brother. I’m sure we all have stories

I don’t have much experience with epoxies. But I’ve taken on a few small projects that required plastic repair. I chose the SEM Quick Set 180 two part epoxy & Release Film Downfalls: - U need a special gun in order to dispense the epoxy. It’s not a standard caulking gun. - mixing tube that attaches to epoxy bottle cannot be reused. Product hardens in tube & serves as the cap to store remainder of epoxy in bottle - the hardened epoxy in the tube seems like a waste of good product

We must be brothers 😆. This damn car can piss us off something fierce can’t it 😆. Did u back the tabs up with metal? I was afraid of breakage too. So I couldn’t reinforcing the tabs any other way

If pic in original post is a toggle for a 65, then what year toggle is this?

Sanding & cleaning the factory paint on the console. Then cleaning with wax/tar remover is prep enough for my POS PITA project

Over year ago is when I started with the dash cluster & plastic surround. When it came time to paint the plastic, everyone told me I gotta “do this, that & the other” & so I did, just like u did. Well, the finished product SUCKED. I was pissed. I acetoned it all off & grabbed the closest rattle can of engine enamel that I use on everything. Looks great. It’s held up well on my gauge cluster surround, radio surround, glovebox door & surround. Can’t speak for the center console yet. Other than simply handling it to work on it & install it, I still haven’t lived with it in the car. Gonna go for a cruise today. I’ll sure it’ll hold up too

😆 funny…THANK U…it came out nice enough for my standards. But it’s definitely not better than yours. I’ve drooled over your website plenty of times 🤣