RockinRiviDad

Bill, thank u for the pix. Can u explain what is attached to the end of your vent hose? Is that a one way check valve? Also, how does a vented cap vent if there is no hole on the outside/top of the cap?? I am confused what these vented caps are suppose to look like. My cap doesn’t say “vented” like the one Bill posted. But mine does have the yellowish looking filter like element on inside/bottom of the cap. Like Bill’s new cap, my cap also does NOT have a hole in the outside/top of the cap

GCC: Nice work 👍🏼 Your throttle bracket looks like the one I made. Mine was actually not allowing full throttle. Check my EFI for more info. Don’t forget to check your throttle position sensor setting on your handheld. It’ll tell u if u got your bracket made right.

So Buick used a vented fuel cap on a vented fuel tank? I will post a pic of my cap. There is no hole on the outside of it to indicate that it is a vented cap. But the inside of the cap has what looks like a little filter?? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Do u have a big loop in the hose that goes over your filler neck?

I don’t know either. But it’s an open port & inadvertently will allow expanding air out. A lesson learned the hard way was when I first got my car on the road I had that port capped. I can’t remember how I caught it but while out cruising on a hot day my fuel tank looked like a balloon 😳. My buddy thought it was gonna blow haha. I simply open the fuel cap & the expanding air escaped haha. Then I drove straight to Pep Boys for a hose haha

I’ve been talking about that. Everyone tells me that it won’t work. It WILL let air in to displace fuel consumption. But won’t let vapors out when expansion happens on hot days. True or false? 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

Thx for the replies, gentlemen. Kind of a lame design if u ask me My hose is new, NOT cracked. I did try to pull it up higher to create a bigger loop. But there isn’t much room behind the rear bumper for much more than what I have. I may try drilling 2 holes in the trunk floor behind the trunk lid striker & loop hose up thru trunk like u the 2nd gen design u guys mentioned. thx again guys

I have leakage from my vent tube also. Is anyone else experiencing this crap? Multiple times, while cruising, I’ve had guys run up to me at a light to tell me I’m leaking. I’ve put it in parked, ran back to check & I can see it pouring out of the vent tube. It’s NOT coming from gas cap. My non vented gas cap is new. Does anyone have a fix for this other than not topping off my tank? What’s the use in having a 20 gallon tank if we can only fill up to 17??

New pix & info on new throttle bracket on my EFI thread. I hope this helps others

In hopes to help keep others from making the same mistakes I am making, I edited my original post. Again, I was so focused on getting my throttle linkage hooked up & simply too excited to be making progress that I forgot to recheck my TPS (throttle position sensor) after fab’ing a bracket to incorporate my kickdown. My kickdown switch was limiting throttle travel to 76% @ WOT. A few days work but finally got it to 92%…I am good with that…92% gives me enough power to smoke my meats!! 🤣

Not sure how to explain it. But I just found out that I need to alter my throttle linkage adapter thingy design. Mine hits the throttle body linkage not allowing full throttle. I will post pix in my EFI thread when I cross that bridge. Edit: Check yours to see that u get 100% WOT

Dammit!! Again, it sounds like u did a great job. But your pix didn’t show up again on this thread brother

Sorry to hear about your friends issue. But the “Brain” (ECU) is on the front of the throttle body behind the nameplate on these Snipers. No doubt your buddy may have penetrated “something” by screwing in the stud too far. But I don’t think it was the “brain” I used a similar stud to hold my air cleaner. I couldn’t use a wing nut between the fins on my Mooneyes aluminum air cleaner. I cut my stud to fit. I must’ve gotten lucky not to penetrate whatever your buddy did when I was test fitting mine

GCC like Craig said, your photos are not showing up. I’d LOVE to see your photos. Sounds like u did a great job…but u know the rules…IF THERES NO PHOTOS, IT DIDNT HAPPEN 🤣 I am glad u were able to use some of my info. 🙏🏼 I will be adding a few new pix to that EFI thread in the next few days. I have to make alterations to my throttle linkage adapter chingaso. I just realized days ago that my fab’d adapter is hitting throttle body linkage & I never saw it. Live & learn

Sub’d I also started chasing down a vibration. Learning a lot from this thread. good luck Joe C

THX for the tip. So the weight of the car will keep pressure on coil spring & it won’t move? Makes sense. My mistake, I thought I posted a pix of upper & lower ball joints. All 4 are bad. If your theory is correct on the weight of car holding spring in place then I can replace all 4 at the same time. Cool tip. I will call Rare Parts. If they rebuild ball joints maybe they will sell me just the boots? I don’t have my originals. Threw them away long ago. Kanter did work with me. They sent me universal replacement boots that looked like they came from the HELP section at Pep Boys. AND they are too small 🤷🏻‍♂️. They wouldn’t sell me new boots off of their ball joints on the shelf, they wouldn’t sell me completes at a discounted rate & they would tell me where they got their ball joints so could call them for boots.

Thank u sir. Let’s go cruise. I’ll text u more details 👍🏽

Thx u. Other side is fine. It turns out headers aren’t hitting from engine torquing. My car is lowered 2 inches. If I bounce the car by hand at core support & watch the UCA I can watch it swing super close to headers. As I jack the car up with floor jack I can see the UCA swing further away from header. Normal driving will obviously move the UCA much more & if my car wasn’t lowered clearance would be fine. The price to pay to look cool 😬 For my fix…I used a die grinder & carbide tip to grind down the entire…but it worked

Buyer beware. DON’T buy from Kanter!! Here’s my Kanter ball joints UCA bushings after only 6k miles. That’s when the pic was taken. But they weren’t any better at 2k miles (maybe just cleaner 😆 ). Now I gotta year the entire front end apart…AGAIN… TERRIBLE!!

We’d love to see them pix. Sounds like a perfect topic for a new thread 👍🏼 😬

My guess would be no. The Q-jet Sniper is only 715cfm’s. The square bore Sniper is 800cfm’s. The more cfm’s the better

I work with a guy who knows/does very little “hands on” type stuff. Weird to me cuz we are “blue collared workers”. All the stuff u listed above are basics that most of us “guys” do while sleepwalking 😆. I read your list & only heard blah blah blah until I got to the part where u said your a GIRL 👍🏽…I’m impressed…congrats…u have my coworker BEAT 🏆 haha. I can barely get my wife in the garage to hold a part for me while I wrench it tight. She did help for 10 minutes during my header install…only cuz I was cursing so loud & she tried to get me to quiet down 🤣. I’m not very active in this forum anymore. But I started my build here 8 years ago & would like to finish my build here. I could be wrong but I don’t think we’ve had a girl on here in those 8 years. U might be a first Welcome to the forum from SoCal. I think u said your in SoCal too. U are more than welcome to come cruise with us anytime. Doing a brunch cruise this Sunday. Come on out. At 46 y/o I drive like an old lady too…kinda…ok…not really 🤣

Happy New Year to u too brother & congrats on your purchase. I didn’t get the distributor yet. I probably shoulda asked Santa for that this year haha. But my Riv is running so nice now & I wanted more muscle car sound so I asked for headers instead 😬. The bracket u ordered is not gonna work if u are trying to keep the Kick Down block switch functional. There’s lots of info on Facebook on how to use a Nitrous Switch in place of the KD block if u are hard pressed to use that bracket u ordered and/or if u can’t get your KD block switch to work. Steelman is correct. The Q-jet has the spread bore base. Our stock intake manifolds are NOT spread bore. Also, the 4BBL 550-510 Throttle body I got is 800cfm not 650. My last carb that gave me troubles like yours was 600cfm. Our Nailheads LOVE cfms. I totally felt a difference in performance when I went from 600 to 800cfm’s 🕺🏻🏋🏽‍♂️ U don’t “need” the in-tank fuel delivery system. It’s just more efficient, quieter & will lasts longer than the external pump that comes in the kit. U should start your own thread on your Sniper install. I’m sure u will find better/other ways to skin this cat. Guys will appreciate the write-up. Don’t forget pix to prove it all. U know what they say “if no pix…it didn’t happen” 🤣

oops…kind of late…never saw this…sorry Running unmodified stock manifold. I should do the “doc mod” to it but I haven’t.

Thank u. Yes…Sanderson Headers I was warned about installing headers with engine in the car. They are right…obviously, doable…but huge PITA. I purchased from Russ Martin & got some Install tips from his son Matt & a Facebook write-up. Not sure how they do it but it’s cheaper to buy these thru the Martin’s than from Sanderson. Ceramic coated version $495 + tax + s/h. Uncoated/raw is cheaper Today was my first day driving her with the headers. 100+ mile cruise, including the Rose Parade Route (super cool) & I did notice better performance. I cruise with guys who like to drive fast & I like to keep up 😬. I am happy I switched. Only fitment issue I noticed was found on the passenger side. I didn’t notice if there was any play in header placement when I had the mounting bolts in finger tight. I may have been able to push the header up a bit before tightening down for a bit more clearance. Header hits passenger upper control arm (UCA). Hard to get good pic. There’s about a 1/4” gap between UCA & header. When I rev engine hard, engine torques & touches corner of UCA. Maybe switching to poly motor mounts OR filing down that UCA corner OR undoing MANY steps with hopes to reposition header up a bit more IF there is any play…which route will I take…stay tuned 🤣