Mark Wetherbee

Oliver Tractor comes to mind, I would suggest you look at the pictures of tractors...

At one time the AACA library was selling copies of Automobile Quarterly at a very reasonable price and seemed to have 90% of the entire collection available. As mentioned there is a few harder to find copies but for the most part they are easily available. I think I bought 5 different copies that contained articles on Pierce Arrow for $3.00 each at the time which is much much less than any you can find on eBay and it supports the library... if you are looking for information about the mechanics I would suggest earlier copies of Dyke’s, Audel’s, or Motor Manuals. There’s also several books from correspondence courses for automotive repair and maintenance that can be very interesting. Good luck!

Heck, there’s 5k in cobwebs and barn dust alone 🤣🤣🤣 Sorry, couldn’t resist... but you would think for 50k they would clean it, take more quality pictures, and maybe do something about the gas leak other than putting the plastic funnel underneath, but then again maybe it’s just me??

It’s a tire spreading unit of some sort, so it holds the tire in such a way as to patch the inside easier.

Cornering the market?? Once you get good ID on the dash clock please post it, there’s this guy who needs one...

Being for the war, I don’t think packaging was anything to worry about... not like it was a POP display at a public parts distributor. They may even have used that opportunity to use up outdated boxes.

Not at $5, I’ll just keep them at that point

I would lean more towards Mercedes because of the triangle shape on the radiator is upside down for Hudson, and although I can’t match the fenders exactly to the OP, many earlier Mercedes cars appear to have a row of rivets running down the center of the front fenders. Heres a 13 according to Pinterest...

Yes, it was a Speedway Quarter Midget with a continental engine that my dad restored for my brothers and me. A bit misleading as the picture was taken on Christmas Day but it was on the opposite end of the room from the tree...

1972

It’s a Cole going by the radiator emblem. You can find a very similar car in a picture on this site: http://colemotorcarregistry.com/blog/#jp-carousel-1030

From Bill Williams’s book “Motoring Mascots of the World” it was used from 1923-26 on the 4-cylinder cars. There’s also a note that there were 3 variations, one was a little taller with shoulders showing under the helmet but he only shows pictures of two... The rib goes to a point at the front top which is frequently broken, I can’t see if yours is or not but I do see the beginning of pot-metal disease (expansion cracking) along the back of that rib. Both will have an impact on value but it’s still a nice piece. The dogbone is two pieces with a series of notches inside to hold the mascot straight relative to where the threaded part stops on the radiator... most dogbone caps were not set up like that.

The A had a bullet end on the wire that was held into the contact by friction, see cropped picture. You just shove it in there... I thought the ground was through the mount back to the body. If you have problems look for a ground issue at each connection from the lights and headlamp bar. The ground path will affect lighting too.

Willys Knight, I can look up which years it was used tomorrow if you need.

Those are very close to the valves in my 31 Pierce 8 which are available through John Cislak in Springfield MA, but a tad shorter- I don’t know if he might be able to get them done up shorter for your car??? here is the factory specs for the PA valves: Intake Valve Material: Chrome Nickel Head Diameter: 1-21/32 Bevel Width: 3/32 Guide Clearance: 0.001-0.0025 Stem Diameter: 0.3725-0.3735 Overall Length: 5-41/64 Tappet Clearance (hot): 0.004 Exhaust Valve Material: Sil Chrome Head Diameter: 1-9/16 Bevel Width: 1/8 Guide Clearance: 0.0025-0.0035 Stem Diameter: 0.3715-0.3725 Overall Length: 5-41/64 Tappet Clearance (hot): 0.006

I believe the round one was part of a radio speaker, I’ve also seen television lamps in the ship form as well as the door stops above which I have two that hold my back doors open on nice days... They were decorative house items with no dealership connections whatsoever.

I had the same issue with one rear wheel of my Pierce, after the other three wheels were re-lined and installed I finally set up two propane torches on blocks pointing at the hub and within 5 minutes it came loose louder than an 8 gauge shell... even with the nut holding it from flying it was violent for lack of a better description! I did have more hub showing but it is still worth trying. I did keep a close eye on the torches and had an extinguisher at hand just in case.... edit: Before anyone asks, I flipped the castle nut upside down because I have actually seen them get distorted along with the shaft threads before, this gives more support to stop any distortion and keeps the hub from poking through the wall when she lets loose.

When I first saw this I figured it was the same one that’s been kicking around eBay for a year plus... I now see that they are two different cars with very similar paint combinations (neither of which I find appealing, but that’s just me). At least this one is priced more reasonably than the other!

Buick did not have the oval radiator cap. That is why I think Overland. Here’s a link to a picture of an 11, the radiator is flat-top but the hood isn’t louvred...

It looks like a cut-down 1913 Overland to me, so that picture might be a bit later than 13. Looks like a fun ride!

Great looking car and the family connection is even better! I have received a few more requests for the yolks, my apologies but I have only a few more and will likely need them for my own car whenever I get around to the wipers... it seems like they are extremely fragile if anyone is interested in reproduction of these!

Thank you for the pictures and information, at some time I’ll have to see which style I have in my car but I have multiples of everything else in my picture except those phenolic yokes. I would assume everything else was far more durable but the Trico dealers were meant to replace everything as a part of service whether it was needed or not.

I still have a couple for myself and glad I could help. So, what is the car that you are doing?

The toolbox in the door was common on mid 20’s Studebaker, but the door doesn’t look like the cars I am familiar with. Looks like a 23 light 6 Studebaker matches these, I just google searched images...

By “blown” was he thinking supercharger? It would be my guess anyhow...