dibarlaw

Hugh: Good to hear of your success! Thanks for the call to verify my suspicions. The right side inner brake on my car was also not seating on the square block. That spring should pull it tight at rest. May take some adjustment of the actuator shaft. That is the side that the band hold down plate with the countersunk screw (1/2"-20 thread)heon mine I was not able to get out. I tried to drill it out but I just wore out drills. The left side screw I was able to drill out without damaging the threads and made a new screw. There is a gasket on my hub and I believe there should be one for this also. This was a 1/64" thick gasket. In the photo showing the .020 Brass washer to take up the space from the bottom of the bore being a bit chewed up from the old failed bearing. The shedder and seal arrangement is the same as what is on my wood wheels.

These were the correct 22" wheels for my 1925 Standard I bought from a Bend Oregon hot rod project. In the photo, the wheels are in Mark Shaw's Buick Barn in Vancouver Wash. prior to him shipping them to me in PA. I had taken many photos of the restoration process being done. These had 3 coats of paint. Cream, Light Blue and the original Cobalt Blue (there were some remnants of the gold feloe stripe and spoke striping). My camera SD card became corrupted and now the photos are gone. I did do some sandblasting on the metal parts. My account may be floating around on the Buick Pre-War Forum site somewhere. The completed painted (Brewster Green) and striped set still waiting to replace the 21" ones now on the car.

Hugh: My friend Peter with the 1927 Master Sport Roadster said that the hub as you show with the 6 nuts removed should pull straight out like on my wooden wheel set up. So as Bob indicates there may be other issues. As I showed previously my right rear wheel I had to use a puller since the parking brake band was interfearing with the worn undercut inside diameter that left a ridge inside the drum. I believe that instead of the wood wheel hub bore encasing the entire depth of the bearing, on this hub the rear hub mounting plate is what secures the drum with the 2 1/2" nut over the bearing locking it to the outer axle tube. 1/2 of bearing fits in the plate and 1/2 fitting freely in the outer hub.

Yes John, Kevin speaks the truth! I have done one 2 sets for my 1925 Standard and the rear wheels on my 1925 Master. I used a stripper on the one set and that was not worth the mess since much scraping still needed to be done. I made a variety of scrapers including pieces of plate glass. The 21" incorrect set I had on the car loosened up and I had to make shims and soaked with boiled linseed oil before refinishing. The wheels currently on my Standard. My Master wheels were easier since they had been stripped and varnished back in the 1970s. I still had to scrape the steel feloes, prime and paint them. So I need to get around to do the fronts now.

Hugh: From our phone conversation yesterday. This is what the Wood Wheel arangement looks like on my 1925 master. Photo of when I had to use a puller to remove the right rear wheel. As I said this was the only wheel doing any braking. The drum was 3/16" out of round and the internal surface was well worn as I believe the parking brake had to be used to stop the car. That made the drum hang up on the internal band. That is why the puller was needed. The bearing retaining nut that holds the wheel/hub to the axle tube is 2 1/2" hex. I do not recall if it was 16 thread or 20 thread. The left side is LH thread. The hub cap wrench tool I had has the 2 1/2" hex onthe opposite end. Also some other info for period Master rear axle. I had taken photos when I had the wheel off of the internal and when I redid the bushings on the brake shafts. I believe I deleted them.

Standard or Master?

EmTee: Checking in the 1929 Buick Master Parts Book. The Alligator leather was indeed available. We just have not found any period sales literature stating this option. Just like the ever elusive 1925 Sport touring, Sport Roadster and Sport Coupe on the Standard chassis sales literature. They were sold and had to have some type of advertising.

Great work Hugh on the "FrankenBuick". I would love to be able to take a nap on that rear seat it looks so comfortable! I did not realize the body may have been an earlier Standard style. Or at least the doors with this type of internal latch handles. This verticle handle was found on all 1924 4 and 6 cylinder cars. Only on our 1925 Standards had the verticles as the Master had this style of horizontal inside pull/lever. Below shows a 1926-45A with the same levers as my 1925-45 Master. This car has an interesting front seat curtain arrangement. I have never seen this on any other car. That is Dwight Romberger in the window. Photo taken when we went to check out the car that Joan and I agreed to purchase at the time. I did call off the deal because of other issues. The 1927 open cars had this style pull toward the front of the front door on both the Master and Standard. My friend Peter's 1927-54 Levers are missing from the Standard. Photo taken when it was at auction from the Owls Head Museum back in 2011. Now Suzy Manhertz's 1927-24 "Homer". How would you like to do an Alligator leather interior?

Thank you. I thouught it may have been a Buick.

The original lines are brass, not copper. The other fuel lines from the vacuum tank to the carb were/are compression fittings. Previously what I thought as the leaking from the hose fittings from the stone element, glass and metal filter did a good job of washing grease and crud from the frame and dripping on the muffler.

I sent you more photos on the Me and my Buick thread. These are very sharp cars in the correct factory colors. 2018 BCA National Denver.

Spring 2012 Nov 2023. Still mostly red... Nov, 2023

One of the sons is still occasionaly on the forum. 28 Buick clutch adjustment Roger Barrett replied to Rod L's topic in Buick - Pre War I am familiar with that lovely roadster. So familiar, in fact that I put the clutch in it. When last I drove it the clutch performed exactly as it should. That said, these things don’t drive like cars even just a little newer than this one. There has been a lot of good advice on this thread. When up... March 6, 2020 33 replies 1 Photos sent to me by Erik Barrett. This is the car I should have gone after. A wonderful Original example sold at a 2011 auction at the Owls Head Museum. Now owned local to me in Maryland. Photo at the HPOF section at Hershey Meet.

I do not have current contact # for the sons of Roger Barrett BCA #99 who I believed has since passed. They had been involved with the restoration of Rogers 1927-24 which he had owned since the 1950s. They should be able to be of help. It was restored as a period modified. It made its debut at the 2019 BCA national at Oklahoma City. Previously when it was a work in progress they were on tour with us at the 2014 BCA National at Portland Oregon.

Got some photos of the split on the fuel line. I have 6' of new 5/16" copper tubing and will see where I would have to cut and splice with a compression union. If too problematic I may have to bite the bullet and make the entire 10' section.

What is the Maroon coupe in the backround?

Update on my 1925 Master's fuel issue. I thought all was solved as far as leaks. Well, I went to drive Remley to our Lenten Fish Fry on Friday. When I parked him in the parking lot and shut of the fuel from the Vacuum tank it seem as thought the brass line cracked at the bend going up to the vacuum tank. It did not show up untill the car was parked on a bit of a side slant. It looked as though I lost at least a quart of fuel. Even though the engine was shut down fuel was bubbling out of the crack from residual vacuum. No rest for the wicked!

What worked for me was my mechanics rolling seat. It has a height adjustment. I just positioned it and pressed the height release lock and up it went! Update on my 1925 Master's fuel issue. I thought all was solved as far as leaks. It seem as thought the brass line cracked at the bend going up to the vacuum tank. It did not show up untill the car was parked on a bit of a side slant. It looked as though I lost at least a quart of fuel. Even though the engine was shut down fuel was bubling out of the crack from residual vacuum. No rest for the wicked!

This is the reference I used on my 1925 Engines.

PM sent. Some of my Non-Buick treasures.

For what it is worth. Here is the original striping on a 1927-27 sedan.

In our personal email I mentioned to you the Machine shop that did my 1925 engine rebuild. They sent my cam out to be reground. Contact them. Reeve Enterprises 4748 Syracuse Rd. Cazenovia, NY. 13035 Patrick Reeve 315-663-1569 315-655-8812

I believe Mark Shaw had sent me your information several years ago about your McLaughlin. I was really impressed and was considering. But at the same time I had just purchased a 1925 Master touring car 28 miles from me. So a car on the other side of the country lost its appeal. Several other really impressive vehicles have tempted me since then but always seem to be in Wasington, Oregon, Utah or in one case British Columbia. Many of us who love these cars have the same issue. We are on the opposite coast. Transportation costs have skyrocketed in the wake of the COVID and current economic realities. I was lucky to sell my 1937 Buick that had been in a T-Bone accident in 2021. It went to Winnapeg, Manitoba as a parts car. I believe over $4,000 shipping. The cost of my project 1925 Master in 2016 was $5,500 including spare engine/parts plus $100 for trailering the 28 miles home. That was about 1/3 of what I paid for my project 1925 Standard in 2011. Plus an extra $1,000 to get it delivered from upstate NY. That should have told me where the value of these cars were going. I wish you luck with your sale. Someone should love this. I have noted on the other thread these McLaughlins are a cut above the Filnt products.

Brookfield MN. 2017.