dibarlaw

There should be a 3 digit number stamped above the brass plate Just above the word DISCONNECT. I am looking for a #283 for my 1925 Buick standard. I do have a list somewhere that identifies what # fits what year/model car. I shall look... If not my number I have some other Buick buddies who may need it. Larry DiBarry

Interesting that today Jan 22, it is listed at $39,000. And on Jan 13, it is $36,000. I was trying to buy an older restoration (25 years), somewhat incorrect non-running 1910-10 runabout without a top last September. The 89 year old owner wanted to start at $20,000 and "dicker up!" Larry DiBarry

Great job Bob! I just did all the same type of job but on a smaller scale. I had to rebuild the heater and defogger motors on my 1937-41. But you have given me incentive to start servicing my spare starter generator for my 1925-25. Thanks for keeping us updated. Larry

Looks more to be 21" wheels with an aluminum hub cap and small hub possibly for a 1926. These are what I have on my 1925 since when it was fixed up in the 1960s or early 70s either the wheels were missing or they could not find tires. 21"Tires being more readily available. So possibly 600X21 tire. I am still looking for a set of correct 22" wheels and rims for my 1925-25. Larry

Rod : How did you know that was the deal breaker? These photos were from the original sale posting of the car from Minnesota. Apparently these people had bought the car from the 2nd owner who had it in storage for about 15 years and were going to "flip it". The person in Vermont who bought it, found out it was also not correctly represented. With several thousands of dollars "sorting out" to do just to get it to be a driver. So he had done the same. I believe he has kept the car and actually had the required work done. Also the front carpet and spare tire cover were missing So to answer your question the price did not include the dice.!

And recently two unrestored ones have shown up. Which if I had the where-with-all I would have bought one. I really like the Sport Touring car! If I had bought the one for $6,000., and had sent it out to be restored. One would probably have roughly double the $57,200 into the restoration. I had made a deal on a 1923-54 for $20,500. Which was to be a good original running/driving car with a presentable 50 + year old restoration. When we arrived to take delivery, the car was not drivable or running. So a 9 hr drive back home. We did love the original "Spanish Grain Leather".

All the touring cars are to have rear carpet and that kick pad carpet on the back of the seat. I still have to install some on the back of my front seat. The two photos are of Leif's 1925-25 rear seat floor. Oh, by the way, I am still searching for the correct robe rail for my 1925-25. Any sightings?

hidden: I believe they still had linoleum on the open cars but closed cars had carpet. Anyone else to help clarify when Buick changed to a rubber front mat? Larry

I had tried many sources on line and at our local Lowes/Home depot stores and they had nothing even close to the profile. Or linoleum in all our local flooring stores required at least a 20 sg. foot minimum order, that was much more per square foot. Maybe the west coast has different suppliers. Terry Wiegand has reminded me to also inform the group about Tony Lauria's caution about making sure the linoleum can stay warm prior to installation. If it is allowed to get cold it can snap when bent. I received my order the end of October rolled up in a 18"X18"X12" deep box. I let it sit in a warm room near the hot water heating radiator. After a day or so. I removed the precut pieces from the box and laid them out flat on the floor next to the radiator. There they sat for several days till I got around to making the new floor boards, (and when my wife complained). When warm, the linoleum is very easy to cut with a sharp utility knife. Final fitting and trimming was done after I glued the linoleum to the new floorboards. I left 1/16 overlap then trimmed with a small pocket/block plane. Creating a 45 degree bevel. Then fit the aluminum edging with some mitered corners. The only problem I had was when I tried to fit the side pieces near the left and right door sills and cowl. By that time in late November we were having temps in the upper 20s. I thought it no issue since all I had to do was fit these pieces around the aluminum bound floorboards. Which all work on these were done in my nice warm basement. My razor sharp pocket block plane was having a tough go of it doing the final contours in my now cold garage. I will get around to replacing the running board mat in the spring when warmer. In the meantime these pieces are snug and laying flat under my warm bed! Larry

Terry: I believe that Leif may be correct. The bezel matches perfectly to the motif of the 1924-1927 Buick headlight, parking and 24-25 master tail light. As well as the master dash units. McLaughlin accessories may have been different. Larry

Materials and Services<o:p></o:p> I have asked the Mason-Dixon membership if they are knowing of material sources and services that can benefit the membership to please share with us. Particularly in my case of owning 1920s and 30s cars, finding services and materials can be a challenge. Buick friend Terry Wiegand recommended “battleshiplinoleum.com” as a source. I was wanting to redo my front floor boards with correct gray linoleum material instead of the pyramid rubber mat as was done when my 1925 was “fixed up” in the 1960s. I spoke with the owner Tony Lauria and he was very helpful and courteous. The material was reasonably priced and when ordered he made sure there was plenty of extra for trimming. The linoleum was cut and shipped quickly. He also provided exacting instructions as to installation and care. I know that many of the station wagons also used this material into the 1950s. Colors are available.<o:p></o:p> Tony Lauria 511 Church Hill Road Landenburg, Pa. 19350 (610)-268-3441 Replaced warped floor boards with new T&G pine <o:p></o:p> <v:shape id="Picture_x0020_3" style="width: 152.25pt; height: 87pt; visibility: visible; mso-wrap-style: square;" type="#_x0000_t75" o:spid="_x0000_i1026"> <v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\DiBarry\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image003.jpg"> </v:imagedata></v:shape>Also the special aluminum edging was only available from Restoration Supply in California. I had bought an 8’ length from them at their booth during the Fall Hershey meet (the last one on hand), then had to order another to finish the job. $25. S&H in a long cardboard tube. I thought I would see if they could only sell me a 4’length as that is what I calculated what was still needed. Only available in 8’lengths. I still needed an extra ½” to finish the last piece with no waste. So I have 47 ½”left over toward my next project. I am splicing the old BUICK mat pieces and adding a backing to use as a mat over top of the new linoleum. I remember someone in the 1960s was making Marque specific mats. So I thought that I should try to preserve this.<o:p></o:p>

Darryl: I did the same as you but had the radiator re-cored. Now, it does not overheat but still does foam up. The photos are from my attempt to drive to our Mason-Dixon car show in June of 2013. I had the radiator cleaned and it was pronounced good for service. I added the overflow tank as recommended by Flyer15015. The previous week I had driven it all around our town on 85 deg. days running for over 45 min at a time. No overheating or spit ups. But, when we went to drive it out of town to go up to the show (44 mile) trip this is what it did at the Chambersburg city limits.

Dave : I am in agreement with you. I was every bit as impressed with a survivor 1923-54 shown at the 2011 Hershey car show. Owned by Paul Rose in nearby Virginia. My own car, a 1925-25 is a driver that I do enjoy driving. Just making things functional and reliable. Unfortunately my car had a 1960s fix up restoration. So I am also just trying to undo some of their "improvements". To get a car from the original owners family and have it basically unmolested is a real treasure. You can probably tell I have a thing for these 1923 Sport models. I would love to have a 1923-55 Sport Touring. Enjoy the drive my friend!

Dave : So very glad that you have shared your success with us as we were rooting for you! The 23-39 is a very special car. I was privileged to be able to Judge the beautifully restored 1923-39 at the Portland meet. I, almost, was able to get a 1923-54 out of Vermont 4 years ago. Made the deal, contracted a carrier, but when we arrived it was misrepresented. So 9 hour drive back home. Another one that got away......

Tom: As I have said before I am still kicking myself from not getting your 1923-49. But that was my problem. You really tried to work with me! Also even before when I was looking for "The Driver Buick". I have been in the same quandary over the 1925-45 Dwight and I helped get running 2 years ago. They insisted that they had to sell their departed fathers stuff. Who had restored it in the 1960s. They wanted to play with the car a bit before they sold it and have done some cobbled up repairs to keep it barely running. I believe they are thinking that it should bring over $10,000 in its present condition. But they would not say what they would accept. I had made an offer at that time and have resubmitted it twice so far. Their comment is "that it isn't eating anything". Last year when you got the lead on the 1925-54 chassis near you in the woods. I tried to either buy their 25-45 and get the 25-54 chassis for parts. Or, try to get them to commit to keeping their car and them getting the parts car before it was gone forever. Nonetheless nothing has changed. Last summer I was invited to take it for a drive around the local farm roads. When we got the car running the year before I said they would need to reline the non-existent brakes before they took it out on the road. When I drove it this summer he said that he adjusted the brakes! I could tell as soon as I turned down their farm lane there was still no brakes. Also the front end /steering was so loose I had to make 1/2 revolution turns with the steering wheel to keep it on the road. What a thrill! Considering that the switch unit had totally crumbled and was hanging from the dash. The fuel tank still needed to be redone. The heat riser from the carb had been cracked and patched. Also the peeling bizarre "Earl Shieb"light blue paint job over top of the correct dark blue lacquer that was done in the 1960s. After my drive I knew the $7,500 I previously had offered was too much. So I have talked myself out of it again!

Bob: Great Job! I posted on the forum last year or so the same technique.(I should have done a 3-D CAD drawing as you have done since that is one of the classes I teach). I made several units for other Buick friends. Mine is still doing fine on the 1925-25. But my original goal was to stop the leaking and ruining the leather fan belt. My first attempt was to bore out the ends and make bronze bushings with a spiral groove in the original casting. This lasted about a week and then locked up. So then went to the lathe and started hogging out aluminum! Now it seems that the front lower pulley seal is leaking. So I keep making new fan belts.

Took the 1925 out last Sunday for a 10 mile spin since it was a 45 degree day. Need to keep her exercised before the white stuff shows up again. She does not like to be out in the snow.

Saturday June 20, 2015– 7th Annual Mason-Dixon Freysinger Car Show. The date is set. Mark your calendar now. The Mason-Dixon Chapter and Freysinger Buick host their 7th Annual Buick Show at Freysinger Buick/GMC, 6251 Carlisle Pike, Mechanicsburg. PA. Peer judging with 10 Buick Classes, 3 awards per class, including modified. Again this year our show will include: Pontiac, Olds, Cadillac and GMC, with 1st thru 3rd for each marque. Also Best of Show Buick, Dealer's Choice Buick, long distance award and oldest car award. Dash plaques to first 75 entries. Registration 8:30-10:30. Show 9-3. Advance registration $10 until June 9th. $12, day of show. Free hot dog and drink to all exhibitors. We are looking for volunteers to help with various aspects of the show. See list in Mason-Dixon newsletter or website.

Congratulations! The 1933s and 1934s are such regal looking automobiles! I wish mine Buicks looked half as nice as this example. Merry Christmas and many Buick Bliss miles in the new year.

Thanks Marty: Looks to be quite a nice car.

Mark : Thank you for all your support and guidance to us new guys. I now know a little about trying to do a newsletter. I know I had promised articles for Pete Phillips in the Bugle. Dean Tryon, in the 1915-1918 group, Joe Suarez for the 1936-38. Being the director of the Mason Dixon chapter I have had to generate material for our newsletter since it seems no one else in the chapter contributes and I also feel tapped out. I am sure our members do not appreciate my ramblings about my 1920s and 1930s cars ( most of which I had already posted on the Forum) when they would rather read about Regals, Reattas and Rivieras. Bless you for making this Hobby enjoyable: Larry DiBarry

Leif : I have a friend in our local club who has a 1927-54 but he has it in storage 60 miles away and it may be weeks before I can get there to take photos. Here are a few that I received when we bid on a 1927-54 when we were still looking for the "Driver Buick."

Leif: I have already looked at buying a 1923-54 roadster (My experience already documented in my thread "Looking for a driver Buick") and thought about either of the 2 1923-55s recently advertised. (Too much of a project for my garage space and pocket book). I did consider buying the gage on e-bay to at least say I had a part of one of these cars. Maybe one of the 54s or 55s would magically appear! Also thank you for photos you sent to me long ago of the front interior floor of your 1925-25. I am finally getting around to doing the linoleum and aluminum edging. Progress so far. After

Joe: Good Luck on that. I am sorry the previous material did not hold up. The brakes on my 1925 were done with the woven material and looked excellent. That is until I found out the previous owner had his "GUY" reline the brakes and install them with steel split rivets! Still sorry that we could not meet you this summer on our way to the Buick nationals. This September we went to look at a 1910 model 10 runabout that was supposedly looking for a good Buick loving home. I made an offer, which was no where near what the 89 year old owner wanted. This was considering that it was sitting in a trailer for 3 years and was not running. On our first phone conversation, when I asked what the car was he said" what do you offer me". Not knowing if it was a runabout, surrey or touring. Restored? Newer, older, complete (who, what, why, when etc.) with very few relevant answers. On the phone he stated that it had a top. Upon inspection it did not and he said it never had a top, even though it had the fastener rail and prop bolts. It was restored by him in the late 1980s according to "FACTORY SPECIFICATIONS"??? It needed considerable freshening up. He wanted to start at $20K and "dicker up". So I tried to get close to his start point but I needed to drive it at that price. I asked if it would be running when we went to inspect it? All he would say was it started with one pull of the crank. Needless to say it was not able to be started when we arrived. Oh well we at least tried. I myself would love to have a brass Buick. Have a Happy Thanksgiving and keep us posted on your progress.

We were at a book store in Doylestown Pa. last week and bought a copy for my son. This is the same 2-A we saw in the Sloan Museum. We were there to investigate the area as a possible stop on the 2016 Pre-War after tour. The main tourist attraction is the Mercer (not the automobile) museum.