dibarlaw

Fred: Thanks for the photos. I inquired at all the usual Auto parts stores. No one has any reference for these pick up screens as they are usually part of the assembly. So the other night I did the exact same operation on some very fine screen. I believe mine is a stainless screen and was more difficult to solder. We will compare notes when I install mine.

I just had my pan and flywheel cover off for the first time since 1988. (To replace the leaky oil pan gasket). The teeth on the flipped ring gear still looks great. I have put on over 6,000 miles in 28 years. The oil pan job was not fun then and has not become more joyful with time. A much younger man than I did this before. In 28 years I still have not acquired a lift.

I have seen many of these 1929s like this. Also other collector cars of the time period. When I 20 something and was wanting one like this in the 1970s the scenario went like this. "Yeah sonny I bought it new and drove it till 1968 then put it in the garage. They had a parade with old cars in town so I fixed her up (Silver paint on all the bright work, plank running boards and Pontiac blue paint on the engine) and drove it a couple of times to the local parade. I had the local Buick, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler (depending on the make in question) dealer offered me a brand new car of my choice but I turned them all down." Then that damned oil embargo and gas prices went crazy. This thing really drinks gas. No. I ain't gonna sell it cause I'm gonna restore it some day" There was a 29 Coupe that I chased down for several years that sold in similar condition, not running at a local auction in the 1980s for $2,500. It went to Carlisle for a $13,000 asking price. I saw it at several more flea markets over the years and believe the lowest price then was $6,500. The first 40 or so years it was on the road. How well it was taken care of is of relative importance as to its existence. Although the last 20 years possibly with a cover in an open shed cancels much out.

Thanks Hugh! Now I have something to work from.

Don: Thanks for posting this as I am in need of one also. If we had some sizes I can probably fabricate it. Although mine is a standard.

A local shop that had experience in these cars simply heated the ring gear, popped it off and flipped it then re-shrunk on to the flywheel. Then they dressed the new teeth faces. That was 28 years ago and have had no problems since.

Mark: The 1927 REO Wolverine you posted about at $8,000 looks to be in very nice shape and a really great buy compared to this. The more I stared at the radiator shell it looks to be a modified 1926-27 Buick shell that was modified to hang the big badge on. The hood does appear to be REO as are the body side belt moldings. Also the radiator cap moto meter style I have seen on Buicks of 1925-26. It would be good to see some engine photos and a photo of the data plate to see what it truly is.

Looks like a mish-mash of unrelated parts. The craigslist ads always have minimal photos. The newer wheels and tires. The rear door does not match. Tacked on cowl lights. I do not recall a REO radiator shell in that shape. Square core may be possible truck radiator? The 1928 Reo was quite a lovely car design. I can't say much for this one. Can anyone identify some of its components. This one is a puzzle.

Midman: Looking great! I am anxious for a ride at Allentown.

The data plate indicates that it is a 1925.

Bob: Were you able to source a fuel pick up filter? I had a 1927 standard tank redone to use as a spare for my 1925-25. I tried various searches to find something close with the 5/16" ID and a 9/16" OD, 2 5/8" long. None of the descriptions ever have the OD. So I have several part # for Mopar, Ford and such with 5/16 ID. I will have to go to the parts store to plead with them to find a few to compare.

The top on this car would indeed fold. Rex accessories made sliding glass type curtains for many cars that originally had regular side curtains. Not only just available with the completer fixed type tops. There were photos of a Red 1920-45 in the Bugle several years ago with them. The photo below was of a complete folding top assembly and glass curtains on e-bat 4 years ago.

I agree that Oregon Desert is also our hero! Many nice finds have shown up lately. I am hoping that my friend Dave near D.C. will be able to get the 1923-44 made into a pickup in NJ. The price is right but a much bigger project than the model 55 I missed out on. My fault. I only hope that some rat-rodder does not get it.

Well after a month and a half of negotiations the car is sold. Of course not to me. I will keep dreaming. I hope the new owner will keep us informed as to its progress. My son was near by on one of his runs to Phoenix and was able to look it over on the 20th of June. It did have most of the things I was concerned about. The spark plug cover, splash shields and the wind wings. It will make someone a nice project. Now I have to get busy on my 1925-25 to make sure it gets to Allentown.

I just received a reply from the owner of the 1923-55 saying that it has been sold. Now I have cheapskate's remorse. It will be interesting if I hear from the new owner as I usually ask for my contact information forwarded to them if they need any help finding parts or services. Of the 6 cars I made offers on in the last 5 years 3 were sold and no contact. 3 are still not sold. Now I must shake this off and get to work on my 1925-25 so I can get it to Allentown!

I have been negotiating on a 1923-55 that still needs quite a bit to get it back on the road. Not running and on the road since 2005. Poor vinyl upholstery and no top. The craigslist ad has expired. Unfortunately the car is in Arizona and I am in PA. My son who drives a lowboy Tractor Trailer and makes deliveries to the copper mines near Phoenix. He said he can save me some cost on delivery but only one of the cars at a time as not to loose payment for his load. Last week he was able to stop and look the car over. Upon his recommendation I gave an offer on it including a totally disassembled 1922 parts car of which model the owner does not know. They want the parts car gone also so that would be another trip for my son. Looking like well over $1000 in fuel for 2 trips. My son felt that we were the only ones interested at this time. The original ad price was $15,000. I have contacted him regularly for over a month and it seems that they are still not willing to take any less.

Sad to see, since my friend in the Mason-Dixon Chapter had his mint 70 Estate rear ended and we are searching for a left rear tail light.

Thanks Dan : I will give him the information. Unfortunately it looks like we were late on the notice since he was getting the stuff by the 24th.

The part #s for the 1970 Estate Tail Lights are LS 5964149 RS 5964150. He appreciates the sympathy but would really like a tail light.

Jon: Thank you for your valuable insights. If you could recommend a bolt on replacement I am willing to try. Any updraft suggestions? I truly dislike the flipped manifold look. No wonder these ads were around at the time.

Brian: Tom Black is now BUICKLESS. He sold me the last of the Buick stuff he had. But his 1923-49 and the several spare engines are right down the road. I will check with the new owner since he is wanting now to sell it in order to make space for another project.

Having rebuilt my own 1925-25 Marvel carb 2 years ago and it was performing well up until last November. Since then I have had all the previously mentioned problems. I have tried to address each fix independently to zero in on the true culprit. But I am still having issues. Even dealing with possible ignition sources. IE. new coil, points, plugs, condenser. Compression check and re-timing. After I replaced the new condenser (that was found to have the forked lead on the copper ribbon shorting to the breaker plate) it would at least run without backfiring. But still the idle is rolling no mater how the adjustments are. I have re-checked the sleeve for leaks. Re-fit the dash pot valve to venturi block according to the Marvel Book (they do change, that wonderful die cast). Replaced the float with the nitrophyl one from Greg Lange.(2 years ago). Lapped and trued the seat to get a good seal with a viton needle. ( I was afraid I would do major damage trying to remove the seat so I had to make a pilot lap to carefully true up the egg shaped seat. Then resetting the float height. I had to make a cage so the needle will find center and it appears to be working. I have checked to see that the vacuum tank is not allowing fuel to enter the vacuum line to the manifold. I may have to try Mark Shaw's suggestion about a cracked jet. One of the problems with the T series carbs is that the idle and high speed jets are unremovable. Soldered in place. Trying to block internal passages to check for leaks will be a trial. So yes, Done all that and still not running well. Interesting that even though all the heat access has been blocked and the exhaust manifold control rod has been disconnected. When I move the heat control on the dash the engine speed changes. There should be no air control from the valve it is to operate. It is blocked in front and above to the heat riser.?????

A few photos from a passengers perspective. Brian's rear window set up worked reasonably well. Brian and Chris. Larry Schramm's Coffee wagon Young vandals struck a "T" with TP. contemplating in the shade Friday morning at Dandy Dave's dad's farm.

Hugh: Now you can get into a side business. I had the same issues with my 21"rims that someone switched for the 22" ones. The car always had a decided "HOP" so when I had the new tires done at UNIVERSAL near me at Hershey I had asked if they had any source for truing the rims. Answer, NO... I thought my spare would be better but that one turned out to be the worst at over 3/8" out of round. When I tried to get it on the right rear wheel that was the first time I ever knocked a car off a jack stand! Dave Blaufarb came through with some "rounder" rims for me. The car now has just a bit of a hop.

A Mason-Dixon club member just got rear ended this morning in his beautiful 1970 Buick estate wagon. He says he needs at least a left tail light lens and possibly a complete assembly. Any leads?