Beemon

Yes sir, I got my Associates in Mechanical Engineering this past spring. I just got certified into my degree this last semester at the 4--year so I'm on track to graduate 2019.

A little sore.. haha I hear it's not as bad as a liberal arts major, apparently they rack up almost 1g on literature. No wonder they are $120,000 in deep.

Nailhead experts that know more than the engineers that designed the engine.

My budget right now is a meager $400 right now and the dual exhaust comes out to $350 before shipping. It's starting to look like a next year project for me. Thanks for sharing! I wonder if the mufflers are made 1:1 the originals with no packing and a straight through baffle. One of the things I found out about the original mufflers is that they are heavily chambered and baffled with two tubes, no cross over, and they look like a modern turbo muffler. It was probably a 2 in 1 muffler and resonator, though I guess 57 adopted the Cadillac resonator setup in the tail pipe. As it currently stands, there are a few smaller things on my wish list as well. I think for now instead of replacing the muffler, ill see about installing resonators at the tail pipe to mitigate drone. Most likely if i were to replace the muffler, the drone would most likely still be persistent based on others findings. The resonator might also shave off that extra db. I'm currently in the process of trying to map the resonant frequency conditions of the exhaust system per firing order, ID of the tube, etc. to see what can be done on a budget. Mr. Johnson's prices are more than fair, I just wish my text books this semester weren't $500.

How different are the arms? They look pretty close. I had gotten my latest pump from the big K, and lucky for me I saved my old one with the rebuilt diaphragms because it blew bough the primary diaphragm and the pulsator at different intervals. Might pick this boy up as a spare or just downright swap it in. I saw a thread about using the 55-up Chevy pump as a single stage replacement, however the body is too thin to accommodate the 56 arm and would require machining. Good to hear this works! Just looked these pumps up, they retail for $150! Willie bought his on a sale that is ongoing on Amazon right now for 66% off. When the sale ends, it can be bought from NAPA at $71.

Best to spend the money on a rebuilt unit with new rubber. Any NOS or junkyard unit will be dry rotted from sitting so long. If you can find yourself a 57 and later distributor, they're only $15 over the counter.

The leathers must reduce the drag coefficient on that stream liner.

POR15 sells a gas tank sealer that works pretty good. No floaters in my tank yet, after two years and using ethanol. If it doesn't look rusty inside, and doesn't leak, it could be fine. Otherwise, I suggest sealing it yourself. You'll be surprised the workout you give yourself!

Don't mean to sound naive, but can you actually do this? Don't worry Matt, at least you won't get docked for not having health insurance.

Does the front license plate come with it? Her car story reminds me of my girlfriend, right down to hitting the bus.

When he cuts the hump, does it need to be welded back together or is it a slip fit collar that can be fastened with a clamp?

Even at the price quoted, I don't want to dip into deep pockets quite yet. I'm going to wait to see how much I get back from taxes, because I do not want to compromise the paint budget. Buying two $40 mufflers is one thing, spending an extra $400 is another. I'm also jobless currently going to school so I have to account for livelihood.

Might be easier to spin a 264 piston in a lathe to cut the dome off than to hack up some connecting rods. I do not know if you can get from 2.25" to 1.850" easily, but couldn't hurt to try before permanently altering your also very rare connecting rods.

Funny, I just got in contact with him as well and his prices are really good! What were you quoted shipping?

It's definitely apparent from that photo, wow! Just for clarification, which bulb was the replacement one? The spherical one or the cylindrical one?

If you don't 4-link or add heavy duty trailing arms from the rear axle to the frame, you'll swap ends fairly quickly. The torque tube that encases the drive shaft on these Buicks, from the Dynaflow torque ball to the differential carrier, takes up the lateral thrust of the rear end and is the only thing keeping the rear end where it is. The radius rod is only there to locate the body over the center of the frame when the coils are loaded. Good luck with the swap, though. When you get it done, that 322 will definitely haul.

Might work out, considering that the rear axle isn't loaded hardly as much as the IFS. Most Jag IRS mods I've seen also use aftermarket coil overs, presumably to take up any sag that may occur due to light springs and a heavier rear end. That being said, I have considered this work long and hard on many occasions and my conclusion is that I would rather buy a faster car than attempt to replace the torque tube. Besides, if I keep trying all these go fast gimmicks, I'll never get my car painted.

It must move pretty good with the flat tires.

Willie already posted the contact info in the thread, bringing to the top for posterity. I imagine it's the shipping that kills you, though.

Mr. Bob do you happen to recall what the quote was?

Do you know the case length for reference?

Do you by chance know what muffler you have on there? I had a lengthy phone call with the girlfriend today. The first 30 minutes was me explaining to her what a muffler is and where to find it. After getting pictures of the transmission oil pan (told her it's a box with pipes coming out of it ???) I told her to go the other way. Being 5 hours away from the car, I want to make sure I get the right mufflers. Installed I have the 3x7 (guessing, doesn't matter) Magnaflow 14" with offset inlet and center outlet. I also know I have 2" pipes front to rear. I've heard using the longer Magnaflows are better for sound but why bother? So it looks like I'm limited to the 4x8 Walkers with an 18" case. I guess I could go to the 26" case ones, but they're 2.25" inlet/outlet and I don't want to use a bunch of adapters. I've heard good reviews about the Walker sound, but most cars running them have resonators. The mufflers for the 55 to 64 Chevy also have the wrong inlet/outlet positions and therefore cannot be used. I'm pretty sure they flow one direction, but I guess a phone call can't hurt. Anyways that's where I am currently on this. I don't have a big enough pipe cutter so I'll be using a hack saw... haha

The stuff in the bed would be acted on by a static friction until that is overcome due to a change in acceleration. If you're going slow enough and you have, say sandbags that weigh a lot, it probably won't move at all. But you're right, they should most definitely be held down!

Sounds like a 126000 original mile car.

We maybe only get a big snow once every few years where I'm from. This year we had a white Christmas. I don't like my mother's Honda CRV, my sister had the Saab and the Jeep had a blown radiator. So naturally we took the 56 across two cities to transport a pregnant woman home. It was pretty fun, the only time I spun tires was when I did a U-turn in the snow and whipped up an empty parking lot after the package was dropped off. It was kind of nice, because everyone around me gave me a wide birth. They probably realised I would cut through their aluminum unibody like tin foil. And then of course all the snow melted the next day, kind of like a freak weather condition with no preparation.