Beemon

Ken, I would be interested to know if you've got the time.

I always wondered why the East side still use corrosive salt. Over here we have formulated de-icer that they spray all over the place. Granted it doesn't snow as hard over here but it seems to do a pretty decent job in the worst conditions and it keeps the pass clear for the most part.

Al, thanks for the offer. unfortunately I would have to buy a whole new system to fit that one muffler, and would still need to find a second one. I can say now though that that muffler is different from the ones I threw away because the exhaust hangar was on the ball socket clamp on the inlet side. Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm glad to hear about the Walker mufflers, I've just heard they rot quick. Willie, I wrote down that gentleman's information. Hopefully maybe next year or so I can replace the entire system to go back to OEM, but not this year. Edit: ill be driving to Michigan in May for the formula SAE competition, wouldn't it be convenient to have it replaced while playing with 600cc go karts.

So I stumbled upon this today after looking at "Walker Exhaust Classic Cars" on YouTube. 1961-64 Chevrolet used 2" pipe on their exhaust and the 327 is close enough to a 322, they should be similar, right? They look about the same size, at 27" case end to case end, and this is their stainless steel model (I've heard the aluminized mufflers don't last much longer than a year or two?). Might just be what I'm looking for. Still hoping someone will chime in with the OEM muffler length!

Is it quiet like an OEM muffler?

I've been searching for this information and so far have not turned anything up. This has been one of my biggest regrets on my car, mostly because it was in the hands of my father and he "convinced me" with his money to go straight pipe front to back with Magnaflow mufflers (originally wanted Flowmaster). When I got my old pipes back, they had simply just cut them up because they were perceived as junk. I had also tossed my original mufflers because they were perforated and collapsed, not donning on me that I could have taken them apart and possibly reconditioned them. The loud exhaust appeal has quickly worn off and it's really annoying to try and have conversations in the car. My grandfather also detests them. I'm thinking about just getting a Walker muffler or OEM equivalent and be done with it, but would like original length of the mufflers so I can pick accordingly. I want to say I recall them being about 36" or so. Really just want the Buick to be quiet as it should be and stop mucking about with obnoxious mufflers. I want to be that humble guy that rolls up and parks in the back of the show unnoticed that you spot out of your eye versus the guy everyone judges silently and gets all the attention. Since my exhaust system is already butchered, I'm just going to cut the pipes and clamp the new ones on. Thanks in advance guys. Grandpa isn't doing very well these days so I just want him to enjoy it the way he remembers, quiet and strong. I'm also getting it painted this year, so it should be a fun year.

Nice texture!

That's quite a ways away, did they come recommended? I was recommended by Transmission Specialists in Auburn off 167 to use King's Transmission in East Hill of Kent. They did a decent job, but it leaks quite a bit from the front seal. Nothing to worry about as the dipstick still reads within spec, but a little disheartening.

Where did you drop the trans off? I had mine done locally, too, and it has a leak at the torque converter to main body seal.

Just noticed your thermostat cover is on backwards.. should be pointing forward. Beautiful engine!

Well damn, just went to go look at it on Craigslist and there's another add for a 56 Buick Special on there that's worth the read. https://pullman.craigslist.org/cto/d/buyer-beware-56buick/6455792106.html

Why did he take photos of his computer to upload to Craigslist? Wouldn't he already have the photos on his computer? ? This is right next to me at school. Looks to be about the same condition as mine, minus the headliner and floor boards. My car was also a low mileage car, around "50,000" miles when I got it. ?

Are you sure that one is a 56? The 55s I've seen near me have the tandem T fitting at the intake, and go to the check ball hanging off the valve cover before going down behind the steering box. I don't have any photos, but that's why what I sent you was the correct T and check ball.

I Just want to add that recalibrating the gauges is not as easy as everyone makes it out to be. To do it right you need to establish what temp is min and max, or perhaps where you want normal to be. Then you need a good known thermometer, a high quality controlled hot plate and a beaker. These gauges are also really fragile and you have to be careful not to damage the brass. The hardest part is of course removing it from the dash and hoping you do not break the bulb pulling it through the firewall as you carefully unwind it. You could theoretically do it on the stove top, but it is not a very good controlled environment and is prone to error. Ask me how I know... both my oil pressure gauge and temp gauge worked flawlessly until I removed them from the dash...

The engine number I'm pretty sure is behind the distributor. You may be thinking of the cylinder heads, which will tell you if it's a 56 or not, but not what series it is.

If the seals are worn and leaking, it's most likely either you flushed and changed the type of fluid that caused swelling in the seals or your plunger rod is rusty and cut them up. I'm any case, these units are not difficult to rebuild at all and I would not waste the money on a professional rebuild unless absolutely necessary (broken parts). Just buy the kit, a new piston and leather cup. Put it back the way it came apart and be done with it. I did mine without using gasket sealer because the gaskets are only used in the vacuum section. Good luck.

600 is really small for what their inventory was. This is the sign of the end of the hobby. Vintage yards downsizing and retaining only desirable cars, pretty soon what's left on the road is all there will be. Prices keep going up because of "age", no one buys and then they junk it because it can't just be given away. The yard 20 minutes from my mom's place downsized a few years back and scrapped majority of the cars rather than put out an ad to come get them. Its really a shame.

Nope, don't think ill ever sell it!

Yesterday I bid farewell to my Buick. Under pressure, I was told to leave her behind because of a potential for snow over the pass and back at school. We spent almost $1000 for a new radiator and complete flush for the Jeep to get me over here and would you know they didn't replace the radiator cap. The seal is broken, so when I parked the car to fuel up half way here, it puked again. Good thing I've got a warranty! The worst part of course is that the roads were bone dry. Boy I sure do miss the car again.

NOOO I was supposed to go there in the spring to syphon some 58 to 60 feint aluminum drums and look for a trunk lid and some other things. Wow. The last PNW yard gone. The guy in Idaho is probably going to triple his already high prices. I can't believe this.

An original radio is only as good as how long the capacitors last. If you're good with a soldering iron, you can repair your original radio for $30 or less unless you have burned out tubes and a bad vibrator.

What they don't know can't hurt them.. Right?

Do the wiper switch next.

They're also for 55s. I know they're not correct but I like them. A lot better than my previous set, that's for sure!

He might want to invest in pontoons next, the sea levels are rising!