r1lark

Hi folks, I have a NOS 513163 tank sender for the '41 Champion/Commander/Presidents. Two questions I has hoping you could help me with: 1) What is the output ohm range, empty to full, on this sender? 2) How to check the ohm range - I've never had a sender that had two terminals. Any tips or guidance? Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide!

First OHC engine? Not so sure, Duisenberg had both SOHC and DOHC production engines. The picture you posted of the Kaiser OHC engine, is that in the same Willys as shown in your avatar pic?

New link, didn't sell the first time around. Lowered price, maybe it will get some attention: DKW Junior Operating Handbook on eBay

I'm sure Richard appreciates all the good thoughts, but be aware that this surgery happened 2 years ago.

Re: picture of the tail of the blue #18 - looks like that car has gotten into some spirited on-the-track trading of paint!

You are welcome!

Found online - DKW Junior Operating Handbook (Operators Manual) on eBay, over 100 pages, 1961 publish date. Link: DKW Jr on eBay:

Gary, this metalwork is just unbelievable! You have gained a great talent. Any plans to start a second career?

Perhaps they are better described as inventory cards, where the parts department would keep track of how many of each part they have on hand, what their historical usage has been, etc. Note at the upper left, the "minimum" and "maximum" which would be their stocking levels. Instead of the nice automated ordering systems of today, it was all by hand. They depended on the parts guy to flag somehow that some more of a specific part had to be ordered when the stocking level got down to (or below) the minimum level. Pretty cool nostalgia!

Gary, I'm impressed with your use of the 3D printing technology, especially using it for mock up. I guess it's a modern version of the old saying "Measure twice and cut once".

Thanks for the update cevensky, I had noticed you had not posted in a while. Glad you are still moving forward with that neat car. I love what you are doing with it!

You are welcome Gary, glad they helped. And this shaft and levers is still available for sale.

Gary, I can't help you on your questions, but in this thread I have a picture of the shaft & levers: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/350694-1934-1940-studebaker-1937-1939-packard-nos-parts/

Very detailed and ornate interior! So, if I understand what I'm seeing - the driver sits in the 'rear' seat, and then there can be passengers sitting in the 'front' seat (and the passengers are facing the driver, and between the driver and the windshield)?

Thanks Marty, I had seen those on eBay. I'm trying to determine which specific Chrysler transmissions and year ranges that these work with.

Folks, I have two band adjusting tools for MoPar products, but I can't find out what MoPar transmission they would be used on. Pics are below. The small adjuster is made by NBM Co., and is AF-10. The large adjuster is made by Blackhawk and is AF-11B. I've done searches online and all I was able to find is they are for Chrysler products, no specifics. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Many thanks in advance!

The generator cutout and the voltage regulator are sold. Still have the 1937 Studebaker (including Coupe-Express) clutch operating shaft.

The generator cutout and the voltage regulator are sold. Still have the 1937 Studebaker (including Coupe-Express) clutch operating shaft.

That's what I do to make sure I have full contact of the shoes to each drum. Use a spray bottle of slightly soapy water to keep down the dust. In fact, if you don't need to take much off, you can hold the sandpaper without gluing it.......the water helps it stay put too.

I've got one of these Brakelighter units in my '54 Studebaker sedan, like it a lot. I have it hooked up so it also flashes when using the turn signals.

Really nice Model A Eric! Great stablemate for that Studebaker. Love the blackwalls, somehow white walls never looked "right" to me on a Model A. I too would like to have a Model A one day. I better get moving on it tho, before I can't drive anymore.

Main place to check for rust on the frame is the plate on the bottom of the rails that closes up the upside down "U" section. Look for cracks where the front crossmember is riveted to the frame rails, and also where the upper a-arms attach to the front crossmember. Front disc brake setups are available from several suppliers, I have used Turner Brake (http://www.turnerbrake.com/) and am happy with the kit. If you find dropped spindles for a Studebaker, let us know. Right now, I don't believe there is a supplier of those, but don't take my word for it. Coilovers will work fine, but the crossmember above the rear axle is not strong enough to attach them to, unless you do a LOT of beefing it up. Keep us up to date on your progress!

Gunsmoke, that car will have quite a jaunty look with those abbreviated front fenders! Great look!

Eric, it sure is a great looking car!

Bumping to the top, still have the generator cut out, as well as the Coupe-Express clutch operating shaft/levers. Thanks!