vermontboy

Rusty's comments on Candy Apple were spot on - below are color charts for Candy Apple - on the left it is over a gold bse and on the right it is overa silver base. The same company manufactured Star Pearl (pearlescent) paints and Metalflake. Chip sets for all 3 types shown but jpegs do not show the incredible sheen or depth of these finishes. Chip set would probably be 1964 or 1965 if memory serves.

I wonder how much the range of electric vehicles is cut in cold temps. We lived 25 miles south of Syracuse and saw over 25 days one year where the temperature never hit -0- degrees and two weeks where every night was 20 below or colder - two nights hit 40 below and one 36 below...... Also not sure how autonomous vehicles are going to navigate when the roads are covered 6 inches or better (drifts to 12 inches) and that's within an hour after they are plowed when the only markers along the road are phone poles on each side..... it will be interesting.

In the mid 50's we were on the cusp of having a piece of uranium the size of a nickel run our vehicles for 20 years. Autonomous vehicles will not become mainstream until they know what to do at a DWI checkpoint, at an unmarked railroad crossing, at a detour in the middle of the night in the rain with a small orange and black sign with an arrow. at the traffic light at Tipperary Hill in Syracuse (it's upside down)....how about Deaf child in Area, Hidden Driveways, Bump and other signs. Construction Zones, etc. When they start to test them where most of the population is (almost all without any mass transportation alternative) they will then understand that no computer can ever substitute for the human brain - sure they can do some things better - but not even a small percentage of things. It's like the old parlor games...

We're blessed with a local independent parts store with 3 knowledgeable countermen. They even hooked me up with a 3 pole solenoid that fit my wheelhorse out of one of their "stuff" boxes in back... and it took them 15 minutes to find it and since it wasn't in the computer they guessed 5 bucks ought to cover it... I got an oddball size roll pin there because they took the time to look for it and when it came up 11 cents he said to just take it. They have 6V and 12V bulbs - you know, the ones that are on a bubble card at 2/3.99. They charge anywhere from 38 to 54 cents apiece....... and all those tricky brass fittings are in a huge cabinet - they always find what I need......

Guess I had the answer all along - found an article on the Mt Washington meet in an old Arrow I have - different view so I will post here. Also found another oddball in an article on the Highlands Inn meet in Carmel (Monterey Peninsula) back in 1963. Posting as I wonder if perhaps the same manufacturer would be involved (has to be a limited number of manufacturers interested in utility bodies for Pierce Arrows).

This is one of several pictures taken at the 1961 Pierce Arrow meet in North Conway, NH that I posted a few years back in the Pierce-Arrow forum. Someone asked about this car but there was never a response as to it's derivation or present location. Anyone have any information?

Back in 2014 I posted pictures of a meet held in 1949 at the Larz Anderson Museum in Brookline, MA. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/243839-1948-car-show-pictures/?tab=comments#comment-1286219 A forum member identified the cars and many of the owners. One that stood out from the crowd and must still be around was a Packard 48 runabout with Westinghouse shocks, owner thought to be Walter Liveno from somewhere around PeekskillNY. Is it still around ??

Another car that attended the early GVAC shows in Rochester in the early 60's was a 1908 (?) Otto. I haven't seen it around in a long time - no pictures but does anyone know where that is toay ???

I agree totally, and any kid who grew up in the 60's with access to a set of torches, a Lincoln welder, and a down home junk yard full of cheap raw material is familiar with the drill. But well over half of those homebuilt specials did not handle well, chewed through tires on monthly basis, and braking often left a lot to be desired. Not to mention that after a couple of years in the salt the welds would fail at inconvenient times. So while it is not rocket science, to do it properly involves a fair degree of engineering knowledge, a decent background in math, and patience to cut the parts correctly, jig them up in alignment, and the ability to complete a weld with proper penetration (easier with todays equipment and materials.). As a first project I just felt it might be a bit more than a novice would want to attempt. We all have (had) to start somewhere (mine was a frame off Model "A" sport coupe in the early 60's). It just kind of seemed like jumping into the deep end of the pool for your first swimming lesson.

In 1953 Buick used a torque tube drivetrain which does not lend itself to engine swaps. It requires a complete re-engineering of the chassis and transmission, driveline and rear end and suspension. You can, by the way, soup up a Buick Straight 8'

I remember having to add a quart or so of alcohol either per weekend or per trip. I drove home from Utica to Rochester almost every weekend (about 150 miles one way). But up until at least 1971 the quart cans of alcohol were readily available at all gas stations... I remember using it because I was told that if regular antifreeze got into the oil through a blown gasket it made a big mess (which is true - there are supporting threads on here about how to cleanout your motor)..Can't remember what my dad used in his Pierce-Arrow but I would almost bet alcohol due to it's tendency to blow the head gasket every year or two in spite of having the head machined flat (and yes- he followed the sequence to iron the head flat every time - who knows? Head gaskets were not easy to find in the early 60's and it always occurred in the same place but a used gasket provided material for patching it. (probably why it would blow out).

I may be dating myself here but back in the 60's I used to use some sort of "alcohol" for anti freeze in my Model "A" that was sold by the quart can at gas stations. Don't remember if it was methanol or glycerol based or neither. I know that it was good to at least 30 below because I used it in the Utica NY area - the "A" was my daily driver in college. Can anyone shed some light on what it was and what the disadvantages of using it today would be.

My dad took his drivers test in Vermont in 1940 and he had to parallel park with his logging truck. I had to parallel park when I took my test in Vermont at 14 in 1963 even though there was only one space to parallel park in all of Montpelier - right in front of the state Capital Building. All other parking in the city was angled in ! Kicker is it was between two cones set pretty far apart.. it was the only parking place for a couple of blocks.

Checking the rockers and rear quarters, floor pans, etc is an absolute must on that vintage Ford or Mercury in the Northeast. I know NH isn't a heavy salt state but wet sand wasn't kind either. I saw rusted out junkers when I was a teen and they were only 5 or 6 years old then so look very closely and if you are not comfortable being able to determine the extent of rust damage take someone with you and pay to get it on a lift........ a lot of "nice looking" pre '55 Fomoco cars are pretty far gone underneath around here.....

You need a shop manual. Many of us could tell you from memory the basics, but on many engines there are little "gotcha's" that will get you without a shop manual whether or not you have done them before. As a basic starting point - label things. It is all too easy to put a long bolt in a short hole during reassembly. It is all too easy not to notice that Part A must come off to get Part B off. It is all too easy not to "iron" the head flat when torquing bolts. Even though I have replaced my share of head gaskets on old engines I want a manual to give me reminders as to the hidden problems that may be present on a particular make or model. The cost of a shop manual will save you at least that much frustration on the first repair you do - honest......

If you read down thru page 1 you will see some people have already given guideline pricing. this is NADA pricing which appears fairly optimistic but note that $4K isn't even in the ballpark. Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $2,842 $13,200 $21,300 $39,700

It doesn't say it is an original car. I don't understand why you wouldn't just measure it and then you would know. You certainly wouldn't want to buy it and find out it didn't fir. It costs nothing to measure it ...... .why is there any question as to what needs to be done ?

Make certain that all battery cables are at least 0 gauge. Most hard starting is tied to 12v replacement cables and or bad connections at battery, starter, or ground (usually ground). It is the first thing I check on any 6 volt vehicle with starting problems. You can get a good set of 0 or 00 (better yet) made at almost any welding shop.

It would probably help to know year and make as someone familiar with later unibody cars might not be sufficiently well versed on the older cars with wood frame, etc.

No problem in snow - remember they didn't used to plow roads like they do now. I used a Model "A" Ford as a daily driver for one whole winter in Utica NY when going to college and commuting back to Rochester for weekends....cold yes, but no problem with snow.

A good friend at work gave me a nicely done plaque with an Irish blessing shortly before my retirement - it said simply "May you live all the days of your life". Since then her husband passed away unexpectedly and I have watched good friends pass away waiting for the "right time" to do the things they want to do. The time is NOW -

Exactly my point - those things do happen.

That would make sense - perhaps they have a notary "verify" your VIN number while your car sits in your garage in Timbuktu. If that is the case they will soon end up being looked at the same as the Alabama guys are.

Sounds like you are going to end up with an out of state registration and title that needs to be out of state forever. Check with your state DMV on residency requirements for titles and check with your insurance company. Usually you have 30 or 60 days to get it registered in your state. I can think of a lot of things that could go wrong Just my two cents

First - I believe that an empty tank would be prone to rust. The Model "A" has a fuel shutoff right by the tank and the lines are 100% visible. Every night millions of cars pull into their garages for the night with varying amounts of gasoline in them. Lastly, the chance of an electric car starting a blazing inferno with their lithium ion batteries (or your computer or cell phone) is probably far greater than one of your vehicles with the battery ground strap off catching fire. My personal opinion only.