vermontboy

Ebay has stated that they will be requiring all sellers to accept "Managed Payments" and will, by the end of the year, try to incorporate all sellers. Managed payments is envisioned to replace Paypal. They have switched an unknown number of dealers over so far, voluntarily. They are now going to force the issue. You will be getting paid for your sales by Ebay, not Paypal. From the latest User Agreement notice. Key updates: • eBay intends to manage payments for more sellers in more markets in the near future • Clarification of which user agreement applies when you buy or sell in other countries • Know when we hold or restrict seller funds It nay be a few months away for most but the new management states it will happen.

I hate to give new life to threads that died awhile ago but I am curious as to whether or not anyone is using Ebay's "Managed Payment" program that they forced on some sellers in lieu of Paypal. It looks like all sellers will eventually end up being forced to join and am just wondering if it creates any problems. Thanks for any information you can give.

Before you go hooking up a battery make sure you have a GOOD fire extinguisher handy. With the tires dry rotted and rats present there is a good chance you may hsve a short somewhere.

You need to check the Alabama DMV site for items required for registration and inspection requirements ......it appears to have changed substantially since it was used as the primary source of cleansing titles....

I think you should add in the cost of obtaining a title, registration, etc in your name to the transportation cost. I doubt many people are willing to purchase with foreign paperwork, etc as many states require notarized DMV forms etc for transfer....

Hoopes Bro & Darlington produced wagon (and later car) wooden wheels. They did not incorporate until 1903. That probably accounts for both the tag and the new wagon wheels. Sothebys descriptions are only as accurate as those they pay to authenticate are. In this case even a rudimentary glance at historical data would have prevented this apparent misinformation.

Take a look at your regular insurer - I have State Farm and for something under $10 a year they provide up to an hour of roadside assistance plus a tow if they can't fix it. I've also turned in a towing bill I paid and they reimbursed me with no questions. I also used them when AAA took 3 hours to pick us up and I asked them to take us home from the repair shop (2.4 miles) and they said they were too busy - had the car dropped in our driveway and he said there would be no free tow from my driveway to the shop the next day. Mid winter and we are in our 70's. There is no taxi service in our town. I keep them in case we need that 200 mile tow but they have become pretty pointless otherwise. Letter writing to their corporate headquarters was useless - each club can set their own rules and they are under no obligation to do anything but drop you with the vehicle. They sure have changed. When I called State Farm to pick up the car in my driveway and take it to the repair shop they were there in under an hour. The driver asked what was wrong with it and I told him the power steering line blew (2008 Caravan). He apologized that it wasn't something he could fix as part of the tow.

My 2 kids back in the mid 80's playing in what was then our work truck. We hauled a lot of firewood with that.

This was taken on the way to Hershey from Rochester in the early 60's along Rt 15. Either in the Southern Tier or in northern PA......Anyone remember it?

Interesting topic. To me "patina", whether we are talking about antiques, tools, furniture or automobiles exists on those items that have been used and cared for over the years. Well cared for guns develop a patina through constant cleaning and use - worn bluing, checkering smoothed through decades of handling, a butter smooth action through use. Old tools with wooden handles smooth and worn, sharpened to a fine edge - they become an extension of ones arms. Furniture with worn armrests and rails, stairs gently worn in the middle through a century of use. Cars with the paint worn down to the primer from polishing on curves and edges, controls worn smooth through use, real wood and leather showing the effects of decades of care - muted rather than fresh. My ideal of "patina" is felt as much as it seen seen, perhaps moreso. It cannot be replicated, once lost through misuse or attempts at duplication it is gone forever. Sorry for my long winded and somewhat idealistic description. Am I the only one who "feels" or "senses" patina?

Hi Steve - just a couple of questions to get the ball rolling here and hopefully someone else will jump in. . Have you had the engine running and if so have you driven it for awhile or just on trial runs? Where is the crack located ? Metal can be welded or stitched, cylinders can be sleeved, etc. Old two or even four cylinder engines with gravity water systems are pretty forgiving.

Are you going to use this as a daily driver or a drag racer - what do you hope to gain with headers or do you just like the looks and thought of them? Just curious.

All of this is nothing new - when I was a kid I bought a copy of Classic Cars and Antiques by Gottlieb and Bowman (1952) - I was fascinated by a chapter on how to buy a classic car - just one example - lots of cobbed up details.

" Since I am just learning about these old cars - I want to be able to do some general maintenance and fixes on my own. That is why I was thinking a newer engine may be better but as I explore learning it may not be." One of the biggest problems in working on someone else's engine conversion is knowing what else is changed and what parts were used. Has the transmission or rear end been changed - if so do you know the part numbers for them so if there is something wrong you can get parts easily. Have the brakes been changed - if so what spindles were used, were they kitted or modified for installation - what master cylinder and proportioning setup was used. was used? Are the springs/ / shocks original --- and etc etc edc. I speak from having helped friends in way over their head - good mechanics and they knew how to work on a 40 Ford (fil in the blanks) but were stymied when it was difficult to know what part that had been changed came from originally. No - I;m not that smart but two heads are much more than twice better than one - more like four times better than one .... If there is no documentation to all of the items that have been replaced either run or walk at a fast clip - what should take two hours will take two months.

I'll take a stab at it but wait for someone who isn't trying to remember what things were like 60 years ago. To me it just looks like an overzealous use of any of the old style head gasket sealers - Indian Head (Permatex) or other goop. At least every Model "A" engine that I picked up back then had thick caramelized material around the head seam to the best of my memory.. I'll be interested to see how others memories remember.

I think that part of the problem is that most of the younger mechanics are used to working flat rate where a good mechanic can do quality work and beat the clock - sometimes by a lot. That adds a variable amount to their pay which can often be substantial - Lets say at a minimum 50 hours pay for 40 hours worked. Guys that get fed the "good stuff" at a good shop can be in 6 figures. Working directly on a customer's car 40 hours work is 40 hours pay if they are honest. I had a great mechanic many year ago who charged by what the job was worth in his opinion. On one repair his wife said he was up half the night trying to find a short and he only charged me an hour's labor because that was his opinion of what the repair should have taken. Tough to make a living that way but he slept well and had more work than he could handle.

Back to the dream car - nostalgia wins out and I guess it would be a 1933 Pierce Arrow Model 836 like my dad bought in 1960. If I remember correctly Ed said the 836 was nowhere near the car the V-12's were. My dad drove it over to Bernie Weiss' house when we first got it and Bernie said the same thing - "Jim - you should have bought a 12 - it's a lot more car." On the other hand I am sure the partial engine rebuild done in one stall of o 2 car unheated garage in January and February of a Rochester NY winter was a lot easier on the 8 than on a 12. I remember Ed did a comparison of the 31 and 32 Pierce 8's - would love to know how the 33 compares. From a practical standpoint a 31 Model "A" sport coupe like my first car would be more practical - I can fix almost anything blindfolded on that.

This will give you some idea of the right amount of "plump" for a 1933 Pierce-Arrow. Original interior - pix taken with a Kodak Brownie back in '61.

If the correct part is available just buy one ... I do understand your logic - honest, but after 60 years of amateur wrenching I have learned that if the factory changed the part there are other not so obvious changes and you will just break something else. There are a lot of Mopar vendors out there and my guess is a lot of nos fuel pumps - not chinese repro stuff. The last time I needed a starter for a Mopar 6 I bought one at a small town NAPA - still in the box and still wrapped. I imagine fuel pumps fall into that category. Mechanical parts for those Mopar straight 6's aren"t scarce - they didn't break often. Just my two cents

" re-Babbitted connecting rods $1750 plus shipping both ways, ..." For comparison purposes here is the receipt for rebabbiting and boring to fit (crank was not turned) the rods for my dad's 1933 Model 836 in 1962.. they came back individually boxed and wrapped like little jewels.

I don't think anything will be a bolt on installation - why do you need a synchro trans ?? Hint - none will have synchros on low gear. If shifting into low is the problem keep in mind that if there is any forward movement whatsoever that Dodge 6 will walk right up to speed in 2nd.... no need to shift into low unless you come to a complete stop or have to stop on hill.

Very sad - When I was living in Syracuse I worked close to his business. His interest in early Syracuse ephemera extended beyond automotive items and he bought several non-automotive items from me over the years. He will be missed.

On mine I just put it in the normal 2nd position - towards the dash and up - then back to neutral and pull towards yourself and up. worked like it was supposed to be that way ...... never gave it a second thought, It is usually easier to adjust to a car than to try to get a car to adjust to you.

Google "Lincoln Highway books" - there are several good books about the building and the history of the road.

And if the trackers don't get you how about all the plate readers and the enormous amount of data that is "temporarily stored" as to the location of your car whenever you are tagged.