vermontboy

Irv, will you be listing the Rambler for sale on this forum when the time comes ? Thank you

Google 1941 Pontiac interior and you will see several woodgrained dashboards. Special Interest Autos #11 (page 20) has an article on using Di-Noc on a dashboard, if memory serves it was a 1936 Ford (could be wrong on that). It was titled "Woodgraining with DiNoc" It seemed to work fine in spite of all the dash openings, sharp corners, etc.... I agree that painted woodgraining is better, depending on the skills of the painter. Just my two cents

Is it painted or is it woodgrain ? If it is woodgrain the material you would use would be "Di-Noc" which has been around for decades. There was an article in an old Special Interest Automobile on how to install it. Today any of the shops that vinyl wrap cars and vans could do it for you, They have an assortment of grain patterns for antique car dashboards and you should be able to find a close match. Regardless of whether you use Di-Noc or spray paint or hire a painter to woodgrain the dash (another option in some areas but a lost art) you really need to disassemble and take everything off the dashboard to do a decent looking job - masking does not work very well (ask me how I know).

I believe it might have been John Utz's RR, the name sounds familiar. This would be in the early 60's at GVACS meets. My dad had a 1933 Pierce Arrow. I used to love the car games at those meets - probably the liability factor comes into play these days.

You say you never had a problem registering it in NY - is the title a "Salvage" title ? I know that every state is slightly different as far as requirements are concerned, especially in regards to VIN numbers but if a car with a legal VIN number and a legal title isn't "portable" state to state perhaps SEMA or some other interested party should look into some sort of portability regulations. Just my two cents

There was an early Rolls Royce attending the Rochester area shows in the 60's that the owner would start by sweeping the spark advance. You could tell it started because the fan would start to turn ..... it was silent.

If it is the same seller and he accepts Paypal on Ebay he can accept it privately. Paypal is portable and can be used to send and receive money by anyone.

I think you really will need to (and want to) change the transmission. While you might be able to make the necessary physical bellhousing adapter the clutch and mating the shafting would require a lot of custom machine work and you would gain nothing. I can't imagine trying to double clutch a typical high revving 80's 4 banger with old straight cut gears..... just my opinion. Why not graft in Pinto or Vega running gear ? Nothing you do will be bolt in ..... nor is the frame itself strong enough to take much torque at speed, not to mention that the brakes would be dismal, not to mention ...... it just snowballs once you start... If you are just looking for a little more power there are probably some options out there including early speed equipment .... but when you start to involve a late model engine you will end up basically bolting the body onto a new (or highly modified and unrecognizable) frame. Others should be along soon , perhaps with some ideas I have not thought of.

What year did they resolve the THM200 issues?

According to Wilipedia (link below) the Hollier was also called the Vincent-Hollier. Gives a listing of years, etc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollier

You note that you have started many 6V cars on 12V. I have done the same but always using the cheapest set of jumper cables I could find and running through the 6 volt battery. Replacing the battery with a 12V battery is not the same thing. If it was mine I would either put in a reducer on the starter circuit or go with the 2 - 6V battery hookup (the right way to do it).

If you just want to make it drivable take a page from the hot rodders book and make both manifolds out of tubular and plate steel. It won't look stock when you open the hood but until the hood is raised no one will know except for a little louder exhaust note. I can't believe I just typed that but as someone pointed out it may be a long search for an original manifold and if you have to have one made it is going to be very expensive. If you can weld and do a bit of basic machine work you can fabricate them yourself ... Teens used to do it (a friend did an exhaust header set up for his Model "A" at 14) - you can do it or have it done by one of the shops that work on the local race cars .... they might not even charge an arm and a leg once they know what it's for. Just my two cents

Just an FYI - most states have a definition of "Car dealer" whereby you would be required to become a licensed dealer. In Ohio the definition (from the DMV guidelines) is: "Even if you don't intend to be in the motor vehicle business, you will have to obtain a dealer's license if you sell more than 5 vehicles, even privately, within a period of 12 months." New York is even tighter - you have to obtain a dealer license if: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> You display 3 vehicles or more for sale at 1 time on premises that you own or control You display 3 vehicles or more for sale within 1 month at such a location You sell 5 vehicles or more in a 12 months Just wanted to point that out so you don't end up on the wrong side of an argument with the state. They do keep track and they generally are not very forgiving where money is involved. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->

I found in running my Model "A" back and forth from Utica to Rochester in the winter the biggest problem was lack of windshield washers, exacerbated by the flat windshield. That was back in the sixties. The mud would make the windshield virtually opaque except for the small triangle caught by the one wiper - interesting at night. I'm older now and wiser, mostly.

The librarians would be the first choice. Another option is a professional conservator, but it will cost so if you are thinking of resale it is probably not a viable option. I have separated old sheets of stamps by putting them in the freezer for a few days with some degree of success. Worth a try as a last resort. If they are loose pages you might try taking a trick from Victorian trade card collectors and try floating them in a tray of water.

Interesting , if I had a 1941 Cadillac and it had been gone through mechanically I wouldn't hesitate to drive it from NY to San Francisco. It would keep up with traffic, you leave a little bit of extra space in following, but it would be very comfortable - like sitting on a sofa. In many respects a lot of these old 40's and 50's cars are easier on a trip than the 60's cars are. They are a lot more fun on the open road than they are on short, local trips. Just my two cents ...

I couldn't agree more. There is also the possibility that a member owned the car previously and has information that a potential buyer should be made aware of by private message or email. If you lock the thread or discourage meaningful questions and comments it may well end up costing one of our members a lot of money needlessly.

And it will probably be coming in some form to your state in the future. It is already becoming harder and harder to sell a car across state lines unless the paperwork is up to snuff. Note the increase in threads on the topic. Even your favorite clerk down to the DMV is being given less authority to address ownership questions than they used to have.

I had to use a small piece cut from sheet asbestos to put inside the clamp to keep mine from falling off back in the 60's - just a narrow strip placed in the lower part of the clamp. The right way is to have a muffler shop expand the pipe or try to find an original - the reproductions are "iffy".

A remote starter switch would be a good place to start.. and relatively cheap.

I fully concur with capngog - bought my first antique car in 1961 and have been through a lot of dealings with NYS DMV over the years - it isn't nearly as bad as some states but I've had a couple of friends who have had major problems. If there is no paperwork in the buyers name (a bill of sale does not count - I can write a bill of sale to myself) then there is no deal - life is too short for hassles.

Anyone concerned that the social security number you are told to "protect" (and some people used to print on checks, and the cops told you to engrave on valuable items) is now your Medicare ID number ? Hospital data sites are are as leaky as a rusty sieve. I'm with Matt - no point in trying to hide what anyone can buy for a few dollars if you go to the right place.

The market niche for collector cars has changed substantially in 8 years - the old classics are cheaper, the 50's and 60's drivers are more expensive, and original muscle cars with a pedigree are in the stratosphere (just my opinion). Parts prices for OEM are higher, repro junk is about the same. The cost of labor for anything you can't do yourself is in general substantially more expensive unless you can find a small sole prop shop where it's a labor of love - not many around anymore and if you find one there is usually a waiting list of months to years. I would agree that the '63 Electra seems steep - but if it's a nice low mileage original with no rust ever and a clean undercarriage and mint interior that is being driven once in awhile (not stored for the past few years) and has been detailed you will not be able to duplicate it for $16,000 if you start with any of the cars you described above.

Just an observation - it depends a lot on what you are expecting for an end result and how much of the work you can do yourself. Discounting the '79 Fleetwood there is not one of those vehicles that you can't find with minimal rust, decent chrome and paint and a decent interior for far less than the cost of a body on semi resto (new chrome, paint and interior as needed). If you are talking about a show restoration you will be at 2 to 3 times the cost of a really nice looking driver. Just my two cents based on a lot of experience.

Back in the 60's we bought a timing chain for my dad's 1933 Pierce-Arrow 836 direct from the Seagraves factory.