vermontboy

It's like buying a house - if it's the right one it will feel natural and fit kike a glove. And that little guy on your shoulder will let you know it's OK. You've been there before a few times I'm sure.

I guess the question is why doesn't the AACA have a privacy policy. Data mining is a very real concern and to stick your head in the sand and think otherwise is foolish. We all take risks in life, but this is one that is easy to avoid. I spent the last 20 years of my career working for the Federal government and saw how identity theft can destroy.a person's finances and reputation. An email list where reasonably accurate demographic information can be surmised is a very useful tool. I would hope that the AACA management would look into this a bit rather than sweeping it under the table. Some kind of statement in regards as to whether they anticipate developing a privacy policy would be helpful.to many of us.

Merriam-Webster "Sell - to exchange (something) for money" Hard to spin it as anything but selling when it's in black and white.

Would AACA consider allowing members to opt out of allowing them to sell our private information to third parties? If not I will have to seriously consider not renewing my membership at the end of the year. I just checked the other clubs and organizations I belong to and every one of them states that they DO NOT sell members personal information. It's easy to say just ignore it - just like all those robo calls at dinnertime. I consider this to be in the same category.

Looking at my "quick guide" for troubleshooting (Peterson's Basic Auto Repair Manual from the 60's) it would appear that there are only a couple of things not checked to date. First would be plugs and wires (no cross firing from rubbing or running together, or at plug insulators). Second would be any primary or secondary ignition wiring. Fixing these things is strictly trial and error and can be a bit frustrating.. If it was mine the first step I would do would be jumping around the ignition switch. Just my two cents.

Thank you - everyone needs to read the whole thing

You have not told us what cars you want to insure and what other cars you own. I started to fill out an online applications for Hagerty for my 1991 S10 Blazer 4 door 2 wheel drive with 42K on it. I am retired, over 65, have never had an accident claim in over 50 years of driving, last traffic ticket was 1974 but they would not insure me because my newest vehicle is a 2002. They want you to have a "new" car to prove that you are not going to use your collector car on a daily basis. Well, I am not going to buy a newer car just to get their insurance. As a matter of fact I am looking at replacing the 2002 car with an OLDER car that is easier for me to work on. And they make a big point that one of their employees uses his Model "A" Ford as a daily driver on a year round basis ....... I guess it just depends who you know, but I feel your frustration. I am looking for a Model "A" Ford for daily use (yes, I've driven one in snow, sllush and ice - it's not bad). and guess I will just have to insure it with one of the big non-collector companies.

I didn't realize Eckler's was tied in with Macs - some things now make sense.

I know it may sound silly but most old carbureted and even throttle body fi cars have their little quirks. Before I spent a lot of time and effort in locating the problem I would find someone with as similar car and ask them to drive it. Since you state it happens when you are maintaining the same light pressure on the throttle it may be you are feeling the transition between circuits in the carburetor - it would be sort of a "fluttering" or "flat spot" effect.

THIS is why it is sometimes best to let sleeping dogs lie. I understand the US is not France but I fear that in the not too distant future ..................... http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/paris-is-banning-older-vehicles-from-the-city-to-curb-pollution/ar-BBtKIpY?li=BBnb4R5

" Going back to post #35, where I see "as a starting point", to paraphrase a quote I read "I don't know what it's really supposed to mean. Start? Start heading to what end?" " I'm with Bernie on this one. Be very careful in NYS because in all honesty I can't think of one thing they have done "good" without trying to figure out a way to make it either expensive or strip people's rights from them. There are those who would dearly love for ALL older vehicles to be limited to shows, etc so as to improve air quality and make certain that people have all the latest "safety" gimmicks in every driving (you know - like those mandated exploding air bags). Just my two cents and close to 70 years of observing NYS politics.

" What do you want to change about the New York State law? I have used it for years with no problem. If you are not a hobbyist don't try to fix something you don't know about." Amen. What we have works pretty good. Whatever you do leave the option open to register antique cars for daily use. If I get a Model "A" I want to be able to use it as a daily driver in nice weather - otherwise it's useless.

" How bad is it guys, cause I know it's ambitious, but HOW ambitious we talking. " Let's talk about time instead of money. Realistically you are looking at two to three years minimum of every night, weekend, and sick day that you will will realistically be able to spend even if you are single and motivated. If you are married, or enjoy having a life outside of old cars, make that a decade or two. I have friends with garages full of "projects", most of which have been partially disassembled, all with parts purchased for when the restoration might actually start. All worth substantially less than the money spent to date. Been there, done that..

" Best take a sweater." Better take a parka in an open car. On November 16, 2014 it was -1 in Kansas. Roads were ice covered with numerous accidents. I've driven a Model "A" (Sport Coupe) on a 200 mile trip at below zero and even though it was a closed car and had a manifold heater it is COLD. Just my two cents - oh, in any event don't forget your anti freeze

While I am certain that it is possible to complete the trip in 10 to 12 days you should probably plan on a bit longer and plan your route carefully. Have you spent enough time in your car to know what its "natural" cruise speed is on two lane roads? I think I remember my dad getting our '18 Maxwell up to around 40 mph but it was not happy. If I recall "happy" was around 32 mph, but of course it hadn't had much done to it mechanically at the time. Regardless, great trip and a great plan - I will be following your progress with great interest.

I always google the name of any vendor I want to check out out ( on this case "thepaintguyz") and put the word "problems" after it. Look for forums, BBB - even if resolved you can read what the original problems were, It is sometimes an eye opener. You have to try to read between the lines because not every complaint is legitimate, but it's still a pretty good way to figure out the possible downsides,

In the price range you are expecting I would only do the fuel system to get it running when you turn the key (and the rubber fuel lines so it doesn't go up in smoke). The other items will not raise your sell price enough to make it worthwhile in my opinion. If it doesn't run on its own your sale price plunges significantly. Just my opinion - others will be along to help.

" How does someone "steal" a car," Read the one star yelp reviews for clues. Remember that both good and bad reviews may or may not be factual. http://www.yelp.com/biz/dusty-old-cars-derry-3

Preparation is the key - 95 per cent of your time (maybe more) is spent preparing to paint. Spend a lot of time and research on the paint you will use - your choices may be limited in California. Go to a regular auto supply store, not a Big Box store, and talk to the oldest guy behind the counter.. It used to be easy to shoot lacquer and color sand between coats and rub out the finish using finer grits of compound. The more coatsthe deeper the color (to a point). You can still buy lacquer but I am not certain if it is legal to use it in California.

" I am still not sure what, if anything at all this has to do with the original posters thread, but I now do have to ask what does local "LE", and "E" mean? I am well aware of the multitude of plates offered in Florida. I even have set of Horse Country plates on my tow vehicle that is titled in in Florida, I just think they look pretty nice, and sort fit the look of my truck. " From an earlier post- "Also "back in the day" Florida plates were coded by county, weight class, and use ("E" was a rental, rental companies fought it saying it made rentals targets. Today they put bar codes on the driver's side rear window). My Judge would have had a 7W-xxxx green (69-70) plate. More specifically: "IV. REQUIREMENTS FOR AUTHENTICATION OF A LICENSE PLATE: Authenticated license plates may be issued to any vehicle manufactured in 1975 or earlier. The license plate must be the same year as the model year of the car or truck. The license plate will be approved for issuance by the department as an authenticated license plate if the license plate has not been refurbished in any way and is still legible for law enforcement purposes. Authenticated license plates may only be issued to cars, motorcycles, and pickups weighing 5,000 pounds or less."

" AOL still has close to 2 million dial-up subscribers. Unfortunately many parts of rural America still do not have available broadband service (other than satellite) and dial-up is the only game in town." Not only that, many areas of the US still have no, or limited cell phone service. A couple of months ago I remember reading about an area in Maine where they wanted to eliminate land line telephone service but couldn't because cell phone service not available. Drive through the Adirondacks or some areas of Vermont and your cell phone is useless (or was two years ago with Verizon). There are many third world countries that provide faster, cheaper and more available phone and broadba nd service than we do.

Probably he is talking about the one that says "forums.aaca.org." "Would you like to receive notifications from this site?" It may just be that we need to learn where we can and can't move the cursor. Same as the large popup that appears whenever the cursor nears the name o the commentator and other places. Hopefully I will learn a route for the cursor to move down the page without feeling like it's the 4th of July with all the small and large pop-ups (clicks that are counted I presume) In the meantime it is very distracting on old eyes - kind of a strobe light effect.

Listen to Matt. Sure, I remember in the 60's driving a couple of untested 1930's vehicles up to 400 miles home but things were vastly different back then - you were always within a few miles of a pretty fair corner garage repair shop and you could flat tow with a rope or chain without creating undo attention. Both trips had problems (needed to back flush the radiator on a 1933 Pierce Arrow and had a generator freeze up on a Model "A" (finished the restoration at 4 PM and started the trip to college 200 miles away at 4:30.PM). I wouldn't even think of attempting it today without a lot of trial runs and tools because there simply are no repair stations left. The closest thing around today are the 24 hour truck repair shops but they are not around every corner.

What size PO Box do you have? If it is one of the small ones they may have difficulty trying to put it in the box without damaging it if the outside wrapper and heavy paper insert are in place. I had to get a larger box to prevent damage to business mail,

I get the 4,000 miles since rebuild but how long ago was it rebuilt? Have there been any long periods with no usage since the rebujild (say a year or more)?