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Kevin bc

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  1. KBC here from Aust. Bit hard to see the shocks in the photo, but the bodies appear to be similar to my 1930 DC Dodge 8. You say the body only fits one way, what happens if you change the bodies from one side to the other, is this possible, that might do something. second guess would be the link arms need to be flipped over. Do the link arms fit to the spring behind or in front of the axle, as mine mount to the spring plate in front of the axle. I have no real answers for your problem, but have just thrown in a few ideas for you to look at. I know with mine I had to spend a lot of time getting the arm in the correct spline position, as I had not marked them when pulling them to pieces, and then leaving them for several years unassembled in a box. Looking further at your photo, just an observation, I would have thought the concave in the eye of the arm would be pointing down so that the bush would fit snuggley into the recess, and nut would fit on the high side of the ressess, which might add some weight to my idea that the shocks need to be swapped side to side. I'll keep a keen eye out for a more positive answer Kevin
  2. Rich Kevin BC here The rear seat squab I believe should be mounted hinged at the bottom to the floor, with a stud tag at the top centre to clip to the rear rail, as the side curtains when not in use , are supposed to reside in that cavity I have been told. Some one may have more info on this subject. I believe this would be correct , because "Where else could they fit on a nice sunny day with the roof down, with the Aussie breeze in your hair, might help get the Covid germs ??? I havent, actually seen it on a tourer, but the rear seat in my 1930 DC Dodge was mounted this way on a wooden riser about 100mm long with the hinge attached to it, and stud secured at the top. I dont know if it was intended as a space to keep some tools or other bits and pieces for a sedan. Ill see if I have a photo of the mount Kevin BC
  3. Matt Whilst looking at your latest additions , the side curtains, I noticed the mounts for the the side curtains ( apparently known as Dawson Plugs), did you have them in the car or did you procure them. I have been searching all afternoon, and have had no joy other then some for a 1930 Caddy at about $80 each, or some A ford ones which don't look right for a Dodge. Will make some if can't buy them , but thought they would be reproduced by someone, do you know of any suppliers. Matt do you realise that soon you are going to run out of things to do after tea??? Kevin BC
  4. Ian I guess there are a few IFs here, with regards to the springs being through the backing card If you have leather then the spring resting on the leather is unlikely to show through the leather, and cause any unsightly ring around the door handle. If you have material lining then the spring against the material would likely show through the material as a prominent ring around the handle. If you have round etruchions then you might not see any ring, depending on the diameter of the etruchion If you have rectangular etruchions as I do then then you would likely see some of the ring either side of the etruchion sides. Kevin
  5. Ian I reckon that means "Take your pick" or one is LH drive & the other is RH Drive Kevin
  6. Ian Found this drawing for a Chev Seville on the net, I think it was. the offical US name for those springs is "Handle Tension Spring", In its modern form on this vehicle the spring is doing the same as our cars by keeping the door panel and crank handle washer pressed up against the handle,so not much has changed in 70-80 years on some parts of a car. Kevin
  7. Ian I might have confused the issue with those two photos, the rear panel with the wadding shown through has had the backing cut away, so as you say the spring would have rested against the material/leather and kept the material/leather pressed against the etruschion . I don't think this is how it was intended.I think they did this to get the clearance to get the pin in the hole easily.It shouldn't have been done that way. Motor trimmer taking shortcuts. It should be as in the top photo where you can see the spring was resting on the backing cardboard which would then push the cardboard/material/leather against the etruschion. If you look at the etruschion the points on the circumference should be big enough to pierce the material and into the cardboard to stop them turning , if there is no cardboard there the etruschion would not hold in the material, and would finish up turning with the handle. This way you have the max force pressing back against the etruschion. ie spring, cardboard,and material/leather. Its quite hard to get the tags of the etruschion to pierce the leather/material/cardboard, so I actually maked the spots and made 4 little incisions through the leather into the backing with a Stanley knife to make sure they would pierce the leather and card to lock into place. Its funny how a little spring can make so much conversation, its no wonder we can make a restoration last for years, Matts the exception I reckon Kevin
  8. Ian Your last few words prompted me to go and pull my old door skins out of their hidyhole - new I kept them for a reason. I can now say for certain the big end goes towards the handle , as you can see in the picture a large imprint in the cardboard, also note that they have cutout some of the cardboard thickness ,I guess for the same reason I talked about above. Picture 349 is a rear door, looks like they cut out all the cardboard to get it to fit, and the other photos have part of the cardboard cutout on a front door. The orig cardboard was thicker than what I remembered. Just to add something else I have also kept most of the old timber from my 1930 DC8 Tourer, if anyone ever finds another DC8 Tourer and needs a pattern, it may be in my shed Kevin
  9. Ian Whilst on this topic of door handle springs, I also came across a situation with mine created by todays changes to re trimming of our old cars. You would have found when taking the trim apart that the card they used back then was only about 1mm cardboard, with some wadding and the material or leather over that. However the trimmers of today like to use thin board of about 2-4mm as the backing, which gives a nice solid backing ,and a beautiful smooth flat finish of the door panels. This is where the problem can occur, you need a certain depth of free moving area on your mechanism stalk to push the etruschion in towards the door to drop the pin in to secure the handles. In my case you have the thickness of etruschion (10mm), new door panel(4-5mm), and spring in compressed state(4mm),around about19mm you need to be able to move etruschion in to drop the pin in to secure the handle. My old panel was only 2mm thick not 5mm like the new one, so I lost 3mm of movement along the shaft, and couln't get the pins in. After pondering the problem for a few days and many attempts to get those little pins in, and breaking out one of the pin holes in a handle , I succeded by taking the panel off, and on the back of the panel around the holes ground out a circle with a Dremmel grinder to the size of the spring diameter(large end), and took about 3mm of the material out of the board, leaving enough to hold the pressure of the spring . This allowed me to push everthing back about an extra 3mm towards the door which then gave me enough room to drop the pin in to secure the handle. I found using a small diameter long shank punch made inserting the pin easier. I guess if you use thin backing or get your trimmer to use thin backing, then there wont be a problem, but I thought the potential problem just needs to be bought to peoples attention, as it wasted a lot of my time finding a solution Kevin
  10. Ian The spring keeps the pressure on the door card as it presses against the little triangular tags on the etrushion (Spelling is bad), which stops it from turning with the winder or door handle, and cutting grooves in the material as the handles operate, basically there to stop the etruschions turning.When you assemble the door handles you have to press the etruschions into the materiel to make 4 little slits for the etruschion pins to stick into, making sure they are pointing in the correct position if like mine on the Dodge 8 they are sqaurish in nature and only fit in one position, if they are round position doesn't matter. The result of not having them there is that over time you may get the etruschions turning and cutting through the material, especially the drivers door which gets more use. Mine were 70+ yrs old when pulled apart and the etruschions where still where they were put when the car was built Kevin BC Kevin BC
  11. Matt Kevin BC again 99% of alternators are negative ground ie Positive battery(Modern cars since the mid 60's). Our cars are positive earth ie Negative battery. If a alternator is hooked up to our cars with neg battery, they won't work, and the diodes can be damaged I just read. I don't know how they configure the alternators to work on our cars, perhaps the diodes have to be reversed in the alternator. This could be the problem in your case, the alternator would test ok on the test bench, as the tech person would hook it up correctly,and away it would go, but as soon as you hook it up in the car its the wrong polarity, and no go, if your car is Negative battery. They talk about changing the polarity of the battery to fit an alternator , but that would add confusion as I think all your gauges, petrol tank unit, connections would then have to be their wiring reversed, and the coil connected reversed, which would confuse anyone trying to trouble shoot later. Hope this info is of use regards Kevin
  12. Matt Kevin BC here. Talking of Earths, does your car have an rear engine mount earth strap, between the chassis ' and the bell housing assembly, this has been a problem on DC8's, too much paint on everything, and no path for those little electrons to run through, even though the motor is solid mounted at the front. Some people forget to put that braided strap back Us restorers can be over diligent in applying that paint stuff regards Kevin BC
  13. Matt Kevin BC here It can be painful with this rego business, I did a lot of chasing around here in Sth Aus as the police used to be able to certify the old cars ,but when I went to the local station the officer said all the paperwork had been removed 2 weeks before & I would have to take it to Adelaide for inspection. I had to round up Bullfrog and his 4 wheel drive and we loaded up my 30 Dc Dodge and off we went. Got down to the site unloaded the car , drove it in when my name was called, the guy with a clipboard asked to see the engine number, wrote it down, asked about the straight 8 engine, asked if I had a chassis No, which I had never found , said thats OK I'll put the engine No down as a chassis No, then told us to go and put it back on the trailer while he checked the computor. When we got back he said there was no records of the car on the computor, which I already new as the Rego people have had about 4 system changes over the last 40 years, and all the old info is GONE. Perhaps you should slip over the border, into Sth Aust, and get it registered(Only Joking), and have a beer after all your hard work For all the overseas members, there is great rivalry between all the Australian States, and each states Govt do all things differently. Anyway hope you get it sorted soon Kevin BC
  14. Kevin BC here These are pillars off a Australian 1930 DC Dodge 8 Phaeton, that I am doing up, have not done a car with folding windscreen before, my question is "Should the tapered wedges sit flush with the faces of the pillar" , or should they be a little proud. Question 2 is "How and what fastens the bottom two pillar pieces together, there is a thrust washer on the outside that has a CS screw in it , but does this screw, thread into these thrust wedges or does it have a nut on the inside of the pillar. The gaping hole in the centre of the old wedge is connected with getting the vacumn to the wiper, so I,m presuming a nut on the inside of the pillar, with perhaps another thrust washer. This piece comes from another Dodge pillar I have, so that is why it isn't a good fit.The pillars came minus the fittings so I have been scrounging the bits, have got all the top pieces, its mainly the securing method of the lower pivots that I'm short of information Does anyone have a photo of all the bits needed. Kevin BC
  15. Info for Matt See you like the wheel painting frame, another easy idea if you have a spare front axle is to mount it on a table, and slip some old bearings in the wheels and spin them on the axle, but you are limited to 2 at a time. regards Kevin BC
  16. Kevin BC here Do you have a earth strap between the motor and the chassis, my Dodge 8,s both have a strap from the engine rear mount/bel housing to the chassis, by passing the rear engine mount to give the motor a good earth, it is not relying on the front solid mount of the motor which could have paint , or rust preventing a good earth though the front mount, which is the only contact of the motor to the chassis. regards Kevin
  17. Rich Neither of my cars had any plate around the pedals, especially the tourer, which had the angled piece of floor in the car but no carpets or gaskets left in it. You can see in the photos above the motor trimmer has edged the carpet around the pedals, I'm undecided as to whether I will try and seal it further or not,there is not a large gap around the pedals , I guess it depends how much hot or cold comes in there in the future. I was more concerned about the visual aspect of the gearbox sticking out of the floor, with the pedals it is not all that noticable, half under the dash. Kevin
  18. Here is a photo of the pad in situ, I think it has a thin plate imbedded in it to make it sit nice and flat, you have caught me out , I found that I still need to do a bit of cleaning up on the gear stick & cover Kevin
  19. Kevin here Will take a photo of the shift pad in the car tomorrow, with a bit more detail Kevin
  20. Richard Sits on top of the carpet, with 4 screws to hold it down, or you could glue it to the carpet, but gluing it is pretty permanet, On top of the carpet it provides a nice defined edge around the carpet, and around the shift housing. I reckon I may have got it from 'Steele" rubber in the states. I just checked Steele, your car is the same as mine, they have them for a 28, but they are quite costly. I think I have an old one here, that I could send over to you if you want to have a look at one to make one up. Kevin
  21. Kevin BC here Here is a photo of the rubber around my 1930 Dodge gear stick, as a staring point in your search. It is exactly a copy of the origonal on mine(Richards Body). Don't know if it dates back to 28 models. Got it from the states, will have too look it up if of interest to you, can take a photo of it inplace if you need it regards Kevin BC
  22. Kevin BC here, When I pulled the seals out of my 30 DC 8, there were no shims either, and that was at 44000miles, so would guess that was the first pull down, so perhaps they did not all need to be shimmed.
  23. Kevin BC here again with some photos. In the 2nd photo the threaded part in the bottom of the bag I ground the sides of the fitting, the ends of the bag are glued together , and then glued to the vertical pillars under in my case the wooden plinth holding the arm rest and window winder mech. The window actually winds down into the bag, which you can see is approx 2" wide. Sorry I don't have more photos of the window area Regards Kevin
  24. Taylormade Kevin BC here from downunder, I had serious doubts about keeping water out of my windows especially the rear quarter vents, on my 30 Australian DC Dodge8, as any water that got in had no where to run except to the wooden door pillar or into the back corner of the car. the doors at least had a couple of slots cut in the wood that the water could escape through. My Car was actually rusted out in the corners at the rear of the guard from water running to that area, and sitting in years of dust , mixed with timber. The cars when made weren't meant to be still in use 90 years later I pondered this problem for several months, and came up with an idea, that worked for me, I got some black pond liner, fixed it to the window sill, dropped it down under the window glass(Lowered to its lowest position of course), and then came back up the window glass on the inside, and fastened it to the pillars with hot glue making a bag around the window. In the bottom of the bag I glued a faucet nut and tail, and to the tail I glued some plastic tube into the end of the tube & ran it out through the timber at the door pillarto below the chassis. It was a lot of mucking around but I know there will never be another rust problem in that area. The door windows could be done the same as any water could be dumped out the bottom of the door. I know we are not talking large quantnities of water, but be able to disperse any moisture out of the doors & bodies is a big positive in my view. Will find the photos and give you a look at them regards Kevin
  25. Richard Kevin BC here, fellow down undera Just looking at your latest pictures' your hinges look in good nick, but thought I would let the Aust members know, about brand new hinges for Phaetons & Roadsters in Australia,looks like they were the same for some time as I have the same hinges, and latches on my 1930 DC 8 Phaeton.They are Chev hinges and you can get brand new hinges ,door latches, door extension bars, inside handles, inside front handle pivot brackets from "the Filling Station" which is a chev reproduction company in the US. The parts are identical. Budd cars don't use them but Aust Chevs and Dodges, looks like they were used by Holdens as they built Chevs & Dodges, and Richards after 28 must have carried on with the same suppliers.Glenn Smith also has the the inside front door handles listed under 28,29,30 Chev Catorgary, The filling station also has temperature sensor for the Dodge 8's, don't know if same as earlier models. Is that right that the hinged rear seat section is so, so that the side curtains can be put behind the seat when not in use. Regards Kevin
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