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Kevin bc

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Everything posted by Kevin bc

  1. Kevin BC here from down under Martin Lester Smith (lestersmith@bigpond.com.au) try Martin Lester Smith from Melbourne, I had a few purchases from him for my 1930 DC 8, and recently got a NOS crown wheel and pinion, still wired up together on a board., Don't know if DK is the same as the DC , but he did have another DC one ,but may have a DK set, as his father many years ago bought out an old garage down Geelong way , and it was full of spare ring & pinion sets, amongst other items regards Kevin Brincat-Cotton
  2. Kevin BC here from Aus You would not believe it, I have just been emailing a friend looking for headlight rims as I am doing up a set & one of the rims is out of round & cracked through, and the other has a crack in it , can you contact me via email at bc3s@bigpond.com regards Kevin BC
  3. Kevin BC here Just as well the bearings in your box were in good shape, I replaced mine in my 1930 DC 8, a couple of years back , got the bearings, and outer cones OK but got the last inner cone avaiable in Australia, so had to have the other made, but all turned out good, my point being that if you see bearings & cones in your travels grab a set. I did find that the cones & bearings appear to be the same or very similar as in the old grey Fergi tractor , so that could be a possibility if anyone gets desperate in the future. Just a point of interest on the steering box, do all the readers of this forum realise that the worm gear in the steering box here in Australia wont work in the US in the same box,and vice versa as the worm is cut in the opposite direction for right hand drive. Its not just a matter of turning the worm around. Regards Kevin
  4. Hi guys Try a company called "Replicore" in New Zealand, I recored my 1930 Dodge 8 with one of their cores, they make all types of cores from vintage cars to oil coolers for vintage aircraft. NZ is a bit closer than England I reckon, transit might be a bit cheaper????. Just interesting to view their web site even if you don't purchase from them Kevin BC
  5. Stewart Kevin BC here - Try "Scots Old Auto Rubber" - thats where I got my set from, and they fit perfectus - I think the price along side is an error or for the item above
  6. Kevin here again Have a look on the internet at "Classic Fasteners " in Adelaide, they have a good selection of RH slot screws in Nickel, and might even have the metal threads or similar . Kevin
  7. Kevin here again , checked my supplies can't help as only have raised head. Its interesting that you have X head screws , I guess they are for screwing into the metal, where here in Aus we still had wood frames and all screws were wood screws, no metal threads at all, so another difference between our cars Kevin
  8. Mpgp1999 I had lots of trouble getting the right screws for my Dodge 1930 DC 8 here in Australia, when i needed them, I finished up finding good suppliers in England, have lost the name now but there were quite a few suppliers over there of specialist wood screws, My requirements were Raised head Screwdriver Slot Brass Chrome plated Here in Aus 99% of screws have cross slots these days one struggles to get a screw with a slot in it, then they are chinese & not the quality of the English ones I'll see if I can dig up the docket, with a name on it, but if you search the net you will find one of them, Price was reasonable about $10 Aus /100 I may have your No 6 roundhead, I'll check & let you know regards Kevin
  9. Ken Kevin here from SAus Can you give us a picture of your drums, I may have some earlier drums if they are the same, give me some measurements aswell Kevin
  10. Tom Yes they are still available, my email is"bc3s@bigpond.com" if you want to contact me we can finalise payment & delivery regards Kevin BC
  11. Darrell Checked out the postage to the states from Aus $50 Aus, which is $37 US, so if you want these I'll make it $110 US all up. Kevin BC
  12. Darrell Hi Today is Sunday here , will check out the postage tomorrow for you. Could not reply to your message via the website Don’t know what they are off, bought them at a swap meet , thinking I could use them on my 1930 Dodge8 Phaeton, but the phaeton has cup holders where the hood sits in a cup arrangement & is strapped into the holder, so they are not appropriate for my use & I have been sitting on them wondering if anyone needed them for some time. They may be a generic brand as most Aust phaetons seemed to use this type , as most brands of cars were either assembled by Holden’s or Richards Body builders here, and had generic parts used on all makes Will get back to you tomorrow. The securing sleeves are easy to make , some brass rod cut into two pieces at 45 degrees, and the brass threaded to take a holding bolt, it the same securing method as the cup holders on my car. Regards Kevin BC
  13. Newbie I have a pair of top rest saddles, that are available if they are of any use to you, they would be slightly later than the ones you show I reckon, but are good solid units. I am from Australia downunder, so I would want $75 US plus freight for them regards Kevin BC
  14. Hi Kevin BC here Can you please verify if they are single action or double action If double action will mount horizontal, if single will mount vertical. I need double action regards Kevin
  15. Hi guys The Australian Dodges in this area have 3 boards(3/4 inch thick) that are butted together and sit in 2 channels that go from the floor up to the firewall at about 40 deg. There is a couple of cutouts in the top one for the pedals to operate, and then it was all carpeted, and had a large rubber plate around the pedals , and steering column. When I say the boards were butted together, they did have a half overlap groove in each edge to stop moisture from getting in, which also stops any board from sagging . Australia used boards in their floors, but I believe US cars used plywood, is this correct? regards Kevin BC
  16. http://www.oldera.com.au/windscreen-frame-brass-u-with-slot-base/ Spinneyhill Your right - Seniors moment, thinking about something else, try OLDERA, been working with Centrelink regards "New Start Allowance", got New on the brain. Kevin
  17. Ric Google a company called "New ERA Services" in Australia, they produce material for making a new windscreen, in brass, might be of use to you Kevin
  18. Spinneyhill You are right about the wire wheels, it would make it easier with the wires off, would give you more room to work around the backing plate, makes me look more forward to the day when I have to do the brakes on my DC Tourer, but that's a long way off yet. regards Kevin BC
  19. When adjusting1930 Dodge DC DD brakes, and possibly other models, on the rear, the front adj nut lines up with the spring shackle, not enough room to get a standard socket in, and then you cant hold the bolt to do the nut up anyway. I have found a spanner that makes the job easier. Called a "Crowsfoot " spanner it is as the picture shows a cutoff open ender, with a 3/8 socket extension hole. As seen fits inside the backing plate neatly & bolt can be held with large screwdriver whilst nut is done up, taking lots of frustration away.Hope this idea makes it easier for someone else out there who has probally uttered profanities when trying to adjust the brakes of this era Mopars Kevin BC
  20. Just a reply to "Dave 24" regards bending taillight stalk for RHS. For any others that may want to add a 2nd taillight, I added a 2nd to my 1930 DC Dodge here in Australia, by getting an American stalk which is bent the other way to the Aus one, problem solved . You guys in the US would need an Aussie stalk. Maybe we can send some Dodge steel back your way Kevin BC
  21. Keiser Looks like maok has you on the right track. It would be possible to take out the seal, as Spinneyhill suggests, but I tried that & finished up buckling the flange ,being heavy handed as the seal was hard to shift after all these years. The leather in the seals I got hold of were in excellent condition, but if they haven't been stored correctly they could be dried out. Try to check if they are wrapped in greaseproof paper still, if you go down that path. Mine came from " AA Bearing Company" in Melbourne, if you want to check them out, very good people (Denis is his name). I have done business with him for my DC, for G/box bearings Steering box bearings & cones, pinion seals, rear wheel seals. Kevin BC Kevin BC
  22. Keiser Found the site on ebay, 2 available ebay no is 172313538228, just put No into ebay, and the seal will pop up, lists the models it fits Kevin BC
  23. Keiser 31. There is a pinion seal on EBAY that says fits Dodge 30-33. It is the same as my 1930 DC dodge pinion seal, so I'm presuming it will fit your car. If you don't have any luck in the states I can give you a contact in Melbourne that recently supplied me with 2 new ones. I" ll dig out the spare one & get you a number if you like. Kevin BC
  24. Hi guys For what it is worth. My gauge was very frustrating for a long time. I'm also a tech of 40+ years, and it baffled me for 6 months or more I reckon Don't know if your gauge is the same as my 1930 DC with 2 coils , but if it is then when you have the gauge out of the car bench testing it then the case of the gauge has to be earthed to the power supply, as the second coil is hooked up to earth or the case of the gauge, and if you just connect to the terminals on the gauge then the 2nd coil is open circuit, (which if I remember correctly gives you either F or E) so you would also have to make sure the gauge is well earthed when in the car.??. You can see my type of gauge in a Dykes manual on page 652 AC type. Another thing I found was that the tank from full to empty did not use the whole range of resistance, mine being up to 130ohms, ,and I could get it to work out of the tank but not in the tank. it was either F or E. After a lot of cog adjusting I have been able to find a medium using about 50ohms where Empty is Empty, and a 1/2 F tank is around the middle & the F reading is ??? which I guess does not have to be real accurate. E is the critical factor Good luck regards Kevin BC
  25. Guys I had the same problem with my brakes on my 1930 DC. What I did was cut a slot in the end of the adjusting bolt where the nut fits. This then allows one to unlock the bolt and turn it with a large screwdriver from the outside & it also allows one to hold the adjuster bolt in place when tightening the nut on the adjuster ensuring the gap from the drum to the lining stays correct, as I found you get the measurement all correct, and when you tighten the nut the adjuster cam can turn as you tighten. Kevin bc
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