bhambulldog

1917 Ford Model T (2 door sedan) It was called by a different name I don't recall, now......

A plug for PowerGEN PowerMaster. They figured it out Here's PowerGen's diagram sent to me. Thanks to Jack Jenkins wow it's very small. maybe some can blow it up. I tried editing but I had no luck

Questions about the color of my Roadmaster come up from time to time. The color code is BFF. B=Dover White/F=Colonial Blue/F=Colonial blue. The Blue repaint is an exact match of the original dash board color. And , the original trunk lid interior color F=Colonial Blue is not found on 1955 paint charts. For 1956 F=Cadet Blue. Apparently the spring (late 55) name for code F was Colonial Blue the 56 name for code F was Cadet Blue Then in '58 the name for code F is again Colonial Blue The formula is Code F on the '56 chart (code F is Code F)despite the name difference (my thread on V8Buick.com http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?225591-1955-1956-Blue-color-code-F&highlight=Colonial+Blue the charts

Nice!What's the amperage draw on that fan? Are you running 6v or 12v?

PowerGen Powermaster alternator have a solution worked out for the push to start when converting to an alternator. I got this from V8Buick but the link to the wiring diagram is no longer good. This poster of this message has not been active over there in 18 months. But, I'll try and contact him for a copy of the wiring diagram.

I was just reading the shop manual. It occurred to me, I could plug another temp bulb in the opposite head, as you say. Temp gauge under the dash is no more cheesy than my unused fog light switch hung from the A/C control mounting holes. To put a temp gauge there would be a good excuse to pull that fog light switch loose....... Yep, I was thinking a 195degF is in there. I was just looking through some of Dad's stash of parts and I found the empty packaging for a 195degF thermostat. I think 180degF would be my wintertime thermostat. And, a 160degF for Summer....... I'm going to do this a bit at a time. Tomorrow, I'll try a 13lb cap. And, check out the thermostat. See what effects that has....... I'm going to cruise in Saturday. We'll see then. I'll check out that link, now. Thanks loads Willie!!

I've been looking at on-line underhood pictures of 52 Buicks. There are not fan shrouds on the ones I am seeing. I still say I would add one. Even if it is just a circular one around the fan. It will make the fan more efficient.Reason being; I think this gasoline they are selling these days are causing some of the cooling issues we are having. Take a look at modern cars, they are designed to run 15-35deg hotter than our old cars. I think the new fuel is the reason why. I'm having cooling issues with mine that I didn't have 35 years ago when gasoline had tetra-ethyl lead. I believe today's corn squeezings are burning hotter and offering less energy.

What kind draw does fan the transmission cooler have? Can it be run on the 30amp generator that I have? This, I am doing when I drive it it in hot weather. On the temp gauge; did you replace the factory gauge with a numerical gauge? Or, is there a way to have both hooked up? Or perhaps, keep the factory as a dummy and read the numerical gauge ?

Thanks Willie for the reply. Reading you reply and, reading on some other sites agreeing with what you're saying, I'm more reassured now. Any tips on where I can find a six or more blade fan? (or even a 5 blade)? I read that a '59 Cadillac six blade fan will fit. I ordered one from a Cadillac parts site. But, they haven't contacted me....... Not even to tell that it is back ordered. I've heard bad things about flex fans. So, I'm staying away from them. A clutch fan would cut down on noise. But, would a clutch fan be too heavy for a waterpump not designed with a clutch fan in mind? And, as far as water pumps; Does an A/C job have a different water pump from a nonA/C job? What thermostat do you use? I understand thermostats control the warm up time, only. And, not running temp. But my thinking is it will eventually get to operating temp. So, there's no need to rush it to warm up. I'm leaning toward a 160degF. In my cars I always ran 180degF or cooler. This was Dad's car. And, Dad had a different idea about thermostats from me. He liked to run hotter thermostats. I'm starting to suspect Dad put a 195degF in it when I wasn't looking. It warms up really fast

Maybe not. I would add one.

55 Roadmaster flippers on the wheel covers, looking good!!!

Shortly after restoration; Mine would heat up and stall due to lean fuel mixture. I replaced two fuel filters before all the trash in the tank was filtered out. The third filter was the charm. It's been on there for ten years , now

NICE! Tourback two door with dog dish hubcaps. Could be nice for a clone of a California Highway Patrol car

Nice!! It looks as if you have Roadmaster variable width Windshield Wipers. (two flappers on the switch) Do the wipers work well? I understand Vacuum wipers don't work during acceration.(My wipers do not work correctly on my Roadmaster)

could it be that the shoes need breaking in? Perhaps, the shoes are not concentric with the drums? Maybe, some hard braking in a safe place (large empty parking lot)?

After hijacking another thread (apologies to the hijacked thread starter), I've decided to start my own thread, here; background, for those that didn't read the hijack, My Roadmaster temp gauge goes up to the extreme high side of the normal line on the gauge. I was hoping the tune up and re-set of the timing and carburetor adjustment and new sparkplugs would cure the higher temperature. It is much easier to crank, now. And, runs much better!! It is really fun to drive it again with the engine tuned!! But, about six weeks ago, the Roadmaster heated up and lost coolant. So, I'm still keeping a close eye on the coolant and temperature. The oil drops down to the low side of normal at idle. And, jumps up to the high side of normal upon normal acceleration. The following are taken from my hijack.. here are my previous posts, and kindly replies from Willie; This time last year my goal was to be at the BCA with the Roadmaster. But, since then I have a new job. And, I've not been at my new job long enough to accrue paid vacation. And, the Roadmaster has been operating on the high side of the normal coolant temperature range. (I think I need to have the radiator cleaned).With the extreme heat we are having now, if I were on the road with it, I would be concerned. I believe I have a 7lb. p.s.i. cap. Mine doesn't boil. The only time it lost coolant past the cap was after I overfilled the radiator. What pressure cap do you use? 13 lbs., eh? Wow!! I checked yesterday. Sure enough mine is a 7lb. It is the dome top radiator. I'll get a 13lb. for it! I drove around about an hour yesterday. I made a pretty good romp up and down a six lane expressway. And then some stop and go driving around at low speed in a residential neighborhood It stayed on the normal line, although it creeped up to the high end of normal. It didn't burped out any coolant. After I shut the car off, I raised the hood and watched, I didn't see any coolant escape. (unless the post shutdown super-heat caused an overflow after I closed the garage door) Alright, end of hijack. I'll start a new thread........... :confused: So, I'll replace my 7lb. cap with a 13lb. cap. If, it will fit. Mine is NOT​ an A/C job (perhaps I should change the hoses and clamps, before I raise the maximum pressure 85%) I'm sure a cooling system flush is in order . And, I'm thinking about adding a recovery tank. The Nissan I drive at work has a pressure cap on the recovery tank. The recovery tank cap has 1.1 cap(i guess that's 1.1lbs.? not 1.1 atmospheres?) My roadmaster has the factory full skirted air directors in front of the radiator. Also it has the factory four blade fan. the Radiator is the factory dome topped type. Should I have it rebuilt? And, should another row of fins be added? I am thinking of a replacement fan of six to eight blades. the electrical system is the factory type generator and voltage regulator. I understand that adding electric cooling fans will require an upgraded charging system. (I'm not prepared to spend that amount money yet. take care of the simple things first, right?) Willie, do I remember you telling me that you added an under body fan to cool your transmission oil? How would that work? ​ Any and thoughts, comments, questions, or advice are welcome and invited. Thanks to y'all in advance!!

13 lbs., eh? Wow!! I checked yesterday. Sure enough mine is a 7lb. It is the dome top radiator. I'll get a 13lb. for it! I drove around about an hour yesterday. I made a pretty good romp up and down a six lane expressway. And then some stop and go driving around at low speed in a residential neighborhood It stayed on the normal line, although it creeped up to the high end of normal. It didn't burped out any coolant. After I shut the car off, I raised the hood and watched, I didn't see any coolant escape. (unless the post shutdown super-heat caused an overflow after I closed the garage door) Alright, end of hijack. I'll start a new thread...........

Absolutely!! EXCEPTION:I would leave open (if, present) the hole in front of the battery. That hole is there to dissipate dangerous vapor from the battery (even maintenance free batteries give off dangerous vapors! ask me how I know!).

I watched the videos. Very Smoooth! And, I like those head doors, very snazy!! I would think the addition of a fan shroud would improve cooling

the addition of fan shroud will improve cooling

I believe I have a 7lb. p.s.i. cap. Mine doesn't boil. The only time it lost coolant past the cap was after I overfilled the radiator. What pressure cap do you use?

Very NICE!!

Maybe I'm mis-remembering! Maybe it was Dad's Lincolns I used to self adjust in reverse.......

That's very interesting!!