Bob Engle

See the two attached photos. Ignore the plastic line. This goes to an oil pressure gauge separate from the one on the dash gauge cluster. In the final assembly, the metal line to the dash oil pressure line would go in this position. The oil filter is a modern assembly that looks like the original filters, but has a spin filter on the inside. To be correct, the filter should be rotated 180 degrees so the two lines would not cross, but the fittings when tightened ended up as shown. I didn't want to force turn them another 180 degrees to be correct. I have spare 50 series fittings for this if you want them. Bob Engle

There are a number of plating processes that can be done to plate aluminum. Google chrome plate aluminum. A nickel finish would be closer to your original aluminum polish. Bob Engle

Wouldn't the finish be nickle plating? Tig weld and plate would be my solution. Bob Engle

I've not seen such a plate on 50 series coolers. Bob Engle

So who says you can't turn a sows ear into a silk purse? Great job Leif! Bob Engle

They are always worse than pictures show. Bob Engle

The quantities stated are right out of the Spec and adjustments manual. The manual also lists SAE 30 for summer and 40-50 for prolonged high speed driving. SAE 20 for winter. They call for oil change 4 times a year. Bob Engle

Oil quantity for a 60 series engine should be 11 1/2 qts. for a dry engine. 8qts on refill. A common mistake made on 32 Buicks is the replacement of oil line from the filter to the cylinder head. This line is supposed to be 1/8". larger lines will allow too much oil flow to the rocker arms and reduce the amount available to the rods and mains. The pressure relief valve does not dump excess flow into the sump. It goes back into the pump. The bypass valve short circuits some of the oil from the oil heater/cooler. Hot oil all goes through the heater/cooler. Is your car running a fully functional heater cooler, or has it been bypassed? What type of filter system are you running? Does it have a bypass valve ? Bob Engle

It sounds like it could be a suction pickup problem. A blocked screen would be my first thought. What weight oil are you running? Bob Engle

My 1917 D45 has the oil wicks on the post and rocker ends. I've been using 40W motor oil for now since my trips are very short (1 to 2 miles) and it gets lubed before every run. Bob Engle

Thanks for your replies. radiator problem seems fine. It runs at 140 degrees F and shows 130 at the bottom of the core. I switched from 160 W trans fluid to 90 W. The clutch is releasing. I've had the coverplate off and could spin the clutch with the pedal 1/2 way depressed. How do I apply the neats foot oil? I don't see any place to get to the clutch leather. I sprayed the clutch brake with brake clean. This seemed to help the shifting. I am able to get through the gears. low to second is the tough one. It's a long throw across neutral. double clutching did not help. Double clutching to third works well. On level ground, It's just as easy to pull out in second rather than clash gears. Experience will help. The throw out bearing appears to be very sloppy. I suspect that I will have to pull the transmission after Hershey and put in a new bearing. The differential is throwing the Mepro 2200 out the slot for the pinion gear adjustment. I don't know if this typical. Brakes are working better than I anticipated. More adjustment is still needed, but they are breaking in well. I'm still learning the sound of this engine and what is normal. The spark advance does not seem to do much, but I don't want to fool too much with it now. It starts, runs and idles nice after warming up. The heat control is locked up but it runs well without it. I haven't touched the carb adjustments and don't plan to to anything now. Great fun learning and driving this car. I got called a Beverly Hills hillbilly as I drove past someone today. Best compliment I've had in years. Bob

Thanks for the replies. Oil is easier than carrying another lube in the tool box. Bob

The 1917 Buick instruction manual calls for 1/2 teaspoon of kerosene to be applied to the running engine valves weekly. What is the modern fluid used in place of kerosene? Bob Engle

I finally got the differential and brakes back in the car. I know the brakes are not adjusted properly yet, but I wanted to get used to them. The car started up readily, but began to overflow coolant as soon as the car warmed a bit. I drove out of the garage and started up the driveway, but as soon as I attempted to shift into second, all gears clashed. I had to stop, shut off the engine and then I could shift into low but on the up shift, I ended in neutral again and could not get into gear with out shutting off the engine. The next try I started out in second, but could not get into 3rd. I was able to get into low this time without shutting off the engine. Low and reverse worked fine to get the car turned into the garage. The engine seems to be running hot, but I haven't got a feel for the advance and column throttle yet. Is my problem the gear brake in the transmission not stopping the gears from spinning? Is it common for the radiator to overflow? I haven't checked the radiator flow rate yet. I may have a plugged up core. I drained it once to replace the freeze plug, and I only added water on fill, no antifreeze. I may have to remove the radiator hoses and check the flow rate. Any help would be great. The clock is ticking for being ready for Hershey. Bob

You might try REM Inc. in Anvil Pa. They make the trunk panels for Cars. Bob Engle

The water jacket side is very poorly cast. In fact sometimes some of the cylinders are saimesed so water flow is poor. Sludge builds up and there are hot spots and cold spots. Cast iron doesn't like lots of temperature variation across it's surfaces. Couple that with the alcohol antifreeze used in the 30's and 40's, which with open unpressurized cooling systems would often evaporate the alcohol and lead to potential freezing. Bob Engle

If you have cracks in the exterior portion of the block, you will want to take a good look at the water jacket on the interior portion as seen from the lifter galley. I have found cracks in several 32-50 series blocks in this area. Bob Engle

A vented cap with a full tank of gas and under hard acceleration will spill gas out of the vent. My 70 GS had a vented cap and Icould smell gas every time I filled the tank. I changed to a non vent and the problem went away. Bob Engle

You might consider contacting one of the reproduction companies to see if they have an interest in selling reproductions of your original. It wouldn't hurt the value of your piece of history and could generate some income as well as make the contents available to other Buick history buffs. Bob Engel

Albert Champion came to the USA in the 1890's as a motorcycle racer. there was no supply of plugs for his European cycle, so he began to make his own plugs. other people wanted his plugs so he began selling Champion spark plugs. When he decided to return to Europe, he sold his Champion business , included the name. Durant did not like buying components from competitors. He hired Albert Champion to start a business of producing spark plugs. The name Champion could not be used in the new business so it was Called AC. Durant eventually bought out Albert's interest in the business. Durant also bought Delco (Detroit electric Company) and eventually merged the two ignition businesses. So Albert Champion started up two of the big 3 plug companies in the USA. Bob Engle

The answer is a qualified yes it can be rebuilt. The first question will be "Why was it stored partially torn down?" The biggest issue always is are the engine, cylinder head and exhaust manifold castings intact without cracks? Pistons, valves and timing gears are available. Unless a connecting rod is bent or broken, the bearings can be restored. There are shops that can do a good job rebuilding the entire engine. It's always a question of $$$. Bob Engle

Can anyone tell me the thickness of both brake linings (emergency and pedal)? Was there any change in thickness between early and late built cars in 1917? Bob Engle

I got my pinion shaft and ring gear carrier back from the machine shop and am beginning reassembly. When I disassembled the unit, the pinion nut was loose and the shaft taper was worn. There was no locking device on the the shaft for the pinion gear. There was a stake mark on the pinion nut. What should the 7/8-14 nut be torgued to? Is staking the proper locking method? Bob Engle

My 1917 D45 is a late model SN 191818. The muffler is wrapped with insulation. I'm afraid of what I will find under the wraps. It is a sheet steel end muffler. I am also still trying to find out how the cutout is supposed to look. It has a round shaft that was jammed through the rectangular floor opening with nothing on the top of the shaft. I'm not going to work on this till after Hershey in October. Bob Engle

I've been working on the assembly and gear setup of the differential. Yesterday I decided to hear the engine run for it's first time at it's new home. Fluids have been changed, spark plugs cleaned an gapped, and battery charged. I filled the vacuum tank with gas and the engine fired right up with generator charging and good oil flow. That made may day to hear the 100 year old engine come to life. Now I can go back to getting bearing and gear settings to my to my satisfaction. I sent my registration for HPOF to Hershey for the fall AACA meet. I'm looking forward to the first test drive. Bob