Bob Engle

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Everything posted by Bob Engle

  1. I would like to hear solutions to preventing oil leaks on the gauge. I've had mine on the 17 D45 apart twice, made new gaskets added a gasket around the spacer ring and it still leaks. Bob Engle
  2. My tires are definitely 34 X4 tires on all wheels and spare. The Firestone tires are a bit wider at the tread than the Lester tires, but ID on both is 34 inches. Bob Engle
  3. Don't you just love the counterweights on the crankshaft!!! There are very few oil galleries in the block. there is a passageway from each main bearing up to the cam bearings, two ports at the oil pump to and return from the oil cooler, and a fitting through the block at the rear right side for oil to filter and cyulinderhead. Oil distribution from the pump to the mains is by way of a copper tubing manifold. Bob Engle
  4. That is a drain tube to let excess differential fluid escape rather than leak onto the brake linings. If the fluid level is correct in the differential but you jack up one side or drive the car on a slope the fl uid will run down the differential tube. The 1917 reference manual Page 55 -57, comments on this function. Be thankfull that the tubes are not blocked with dirt. Bob Engle
  5. I dug out my supply of well used cam bearings and the setting tools I made for my engine. The pinning for The second through the fifth bearing is done from the outer side of the engine block. The holes are about 0.170" in diameter. The front pin is behind the timing gear. The photos are of teh second and third bearings.The steel shell appears to be about 0.080" thick and the babbit is about the same thickness. The bearing at the oil pump drive gear has a slight bevel on one side. Send me a pm with a mailing address and I will send the 3 sets of bearings and seating tools for your use. They will go out Monday using a priority mail box. Modify, and use what will help you get on the road. I have no use for the bearings. I put the bearings and the seating tools in the freezer and found that they went in very easily and I still had 0.003" to .004" clearance to the cam journals after instalation. Bob Engle
  6. I am hesitant to give too much advice as I only have experience with 32 -50 series engines. Knowing the problems you have had, I would do a thorough inspection of the cam bearing bores in the block. If they are square and concentric I woud do no further machining on the cam bores. If bores are not in good condition, I would bore them. I would then make steel sleeves for a light press fit in the bores. I would install the sleeves and drill and ream the sleeves and block for press fit dowel pins. Remove the sleeves and have them babbited and machined to specs to match your camshaft bearing surfaces. the 1932 50 bearings had an oil groove in them. Bob Engle
  7. My guess is the camshft froze, stripped fiber gear, no oil pump as it's driven off the cam shaft. Oil route to cam bearings frome main bearing distribution tube to main bearing caps, passage from main bearing through casting web to cam bearings. I have 4 32 50 series engine blocks and they all have steel lined babbit cam bearings pinned through the casting web. They are a pain to instal bearings and get them lined up with the pin holes. Bob Engle
  8. The early 1931 50 series engines had bronze cam bearings. There were many early failures and Buick made a change to steel sleeve babbit bearings. they then did engine replacements for the vehicles with failed bronze bearings. This is documented in "The Buick, A Complete History" by Dunhamand Gustin. I have some babbit bearing sleeves if you want to make the change. There is a steel pin to hold the bearing sleeves in location. I can provide further info if you need it. Bob Engle
  9. If you plan to show the car in AACA or BCA you will want the Marvel so you don't lose points in judging. I would personally stay with the Marvel. When properly cared for they work fine. It won't catch fire from the carb if you use a synthetic float and set it up properly. By the way, there should be a tube from the air cleaner that goes below the exhaust pipe. This is there to ensure that any stuck float or needle valve situation allows any overflow to be directed to the ground and not any hot engine parts. If you plan to run an electric fuel pump, you will need to pay particular attention to the pressure. Excess pressure will over cause problems. I would encourage you to go back on the site and search for Sandy Jones and his learning experience with the Marvel on his 1933 90 series cars. Theyu have virtually the same Marvel as your 1932 96. In my opinion, any carburetor not set up and properly maintained has the potential to cause a fire. Fuel leaking from a rochester in a turned up manifold will catch fire as quickly as the Marvel. By the way, the more you drive it the better it will work. Bob Engle
  10. I sense that you are not very interested in making repairs yourself. Many of these problems you face will get costly if you only send the car out to qualified mechanics. If you have any repair background or mechanical skill many of these issues can be done with your own labor. First, you should get a reproduction set of 1960 Buick service manuals ( not general repair manuals "Buick"). The chassis and body service manuals are reproduced and available on the interenet. The wiper motor is fairly easy to remove with just simple tools. The toughest part is removal of the left side air intake grill. I tape all edges on the body and grill so as not to scratch the paint during removal. Once the wipermotor is out on the bench, you can try to diagnos the problem you have following the service manual. I sent my motor to Midwest Remanufacturing (Bedford Park Ill) for a total restoration. It was returned in less than 2 weeks and the cost was under $200. By the way the car can be driven with the wiper motor removed. Your water leakage problems are common on the 60 Buicks. It is not as simple as just replacing the weatherstripping. Once again the service manuals will be a big help in correcting the problem. Remove the old weatherstripping, remove the door latch mechanisms and clean, lubricate and reinstall. Get the dooor latching properly first. Second, make the adjustments to get the window and vent assembly properly lined up to get uniform gaps between the window parts and the body. Finally install the weatherstripping with a good bond to the door and body panels. Do one piece of weather stripping at a time. I soap the outer edge of the weatherstripping and use a full coat of weatherstripping adhesive and follow the manual instructions. Once one piece is in place close the door and let it sit for 2 days for the adhesive to fully cure and hold the piece of weatherstripping in place. Do the next piece and let sit again. rushing the instalation will have the strips shift and not work properly. Door parts alignment is critical and then patience with the weatherstripping will be needed. As for gas treatment, I don't use any. I am fortunate enough to be able to buy hi test nonethanol gas locally. On long trips I just use hi test ethanol gas. If you have not done so yet, Replace all rubber gas line components ( there is a short piece at the right front crossmember and one at the gas tank.) with materials suitable for ethanol. Replace the fuelpump diaphram and carb rubber components. I'll discuss some of your other concerns in a later reply. I hope this helps. Bob Engle
  11. I'll be glad to help you source some parts. First, Like the wiper motor, are you missing the assembly or is it that the installed one is not working? Do you want parts for rebuilding? or do you expect rebuilt guaranteed parts? Do you want correct orignal parts so you can show the car, or do you just want to get it in good driving condition. I have some cores for some of these parts that you are looking for, but they will need attention to make them usable. For parts like the steering gear and wiper motor, there are companies that specialize in rebuilding your cores. Feel free to PM ( private message) me and I will give you a phone number so we can talk through your issues. I've been working on my 60 Invicta for 7 years now and I know the challenges of finding good parts. Bob Engle
  12. The ealy teens Buicks have a brake on the transmission input shaft. When shifting if the car is shifted into neutral with further depressing of the clutch, the brake will slow or stop the transmission gears and clutch disk to allow for better shifting with the non syncro gears. When stopped with the clutch depressed and the car is left in gear, fully depressing the clutch brake will act as a hill holder. Bob Engle
  13. Another intersting story. My step dad in hid teens, bought a model T in the late 30's. He got stopped by the local police and they checked the registration against the engine number and it did not match because the motor had been changed. He ended up scrapping the car. Bob Engle
  14. Check the engine number to see if it matches. PA will give you lots of grief if you try to register it under any number other than what's on the current registration. I'd be willing to bet a doughnut that it registered on the engine serial number. I bought a barn find 1957 continental out of PA. It was registered as a 1956 when the vin number run through the Mark II registry indicates that it was built in january of 1957. On these cars all vin numbers for both 56 and 57 started with 56C ******. Virginia will not change numbers, and PA will only make changes by hiring an investigator and lawyer and then going to court to get a corrected title. Needless to say the car sports 1956 VA plates. Bob Engle
  15. If your car was registered in NY on the engine serial# ( a common practice) you will need to use the engine # in PA. The engine# I believe, should be on a machined surface on the right side of the engine block. your chassis serial # would have been between 2334956 and 2460543. engine #s start at2489593 and ending at 2613337. Bob Engle
  16. My 17 Buick came with an electric pump. They ran a return line to the tank from the vent port to the gas tank. the pump never builds pressure in the vacuum tank as any excees flows back to the tank. I still plan to return to the original vaccum tank concept whenever I can colect enough pieces. They gutted the internals of the tank. Bob Engle
  17. After the pin is removed, try to turn the barrel where the ignition key goes in. The surface should be about 1/16" above the casting bracket. Try to wiggle the barrel. Hopefully it moves. If it moves, remove the ignition switch on the underside by removing the two flat heads screws. Remove the chromed knurled nut and collect the lock washer, spring and detent ball. Now wiggle and pull the barrel out of the casting. With this removed, you can now pull the lock lever assembly out of the casting. You can make a tool with a short 90 degree bend on the end and use it in the retaier pin hole to assist in getting it to move out. I have removed 5 of these column assemblies. Three of them the key barrel slid out with gentle wiggling. the 4th required soaking for several days with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Caution, it is flamable and not good for inhaling. The 5th was a disaster. The key barrel would not budge. after many days of fooling with it, I taped the outer edge and put channel locks on it. Needless to say, the diecast inner piece broke and the key tumbler assemby was junk. I hope this helps Bob Engle
  18. I have relined the clutch and transmission input shaft brake. I am now trying to work out the set up and adjustment for best clutch operation. My first question: The input shaft assembly moves bout 1/8" in the transmission bore. see 3796 and 3797. Is this movement normal and correct? The clutch pedal travel from floor board to pedal touching floor board is 5 3/4" This equates to about 3/4" of throwout bearing assembly travel. This travel can be limited, but it must travel enough to first take up slack in the throwout bearing, then release the cone disk from the fly wheel, then take up clearance from the adjuster face to the spring for the input shaft brake, and then finally seat the input shaft brake. The spring on the input shaft brake can take up some additional travel. When I disassembled the clutch, the throwout bearing had a lot of play before engaging to release the clutch. Is this normal?? see 3799 and 3800 How much travel is correct for clutch disengagement and how much travel should there be before engagement with the transmission input shaft brake? While there is an adjustment for the input shaft brake, with it set for maximum clearance, I only have about 1/8" clearance before brake application. This tranlates to about 1" of clutch pedal travel between clutch realease and brake application. This seems too small a range. I need some expert thoughts on this. Bob Engle
  19. I hope you have better luck than I did . I was not able to get my email address cleared and I had to open a new address. Notifying everyone of a new address is a pain. Cell phone fishing is getting just as bad. Bob Engle
  20. Mac Blair ( 32 Buick registry) and Bob's Automobilia have shafts, impellors and packing available. Bob Engle
  21. It's interesting that the myth of freeze plugs is to prevent damage from freezing. In reality they are core plugs whose purpose was to have an opening for the removal of the sand core used in the initial casting of the part. As mentioned, their only failure is corrosion. Over time , galvanic activity from coolant turbulence and oxidation will take their toll. Regular antifreeze change is the only good deterent. In time even the best of care will not prevent the need for replacement of the core plugs. Bob Engle
  22. The gas pedal linkage attaches to a pivoting bellcrank. the mounting bracket for the bellcrank is on two threaded studs . The studs are on the top water jacket pan. Counting from the top of the cover nearest the firewall the two mounting studs are in the 2nd and 3rd 1/4-20 thread holes. This is not apparant from any manuals and are difficult to see in any photos. Bob Engle
  23. If you can get to any of the major swap meets, you should be able to find your headlights. I know I have seen them at the AACA Hershey fall meet. Price is a different question. On the heat riser, go to the exhaust bypass valve mounted below the exhaust outlet from the manifold. remove the butterfly inside. remove the internal pipe from the valve to the heat riser. Find a freeze plug that will match the O.D. of the outer tube and put it in the bypass valve. You can then install the outer tube for appearance only. On the heat riser ( part above the carb and below the intake manifold) Be sure that the tubes inside are not rusted out. Be very careful with this heat riser, exhaust over the years has damaged the cast iron as you are aware of from the welds. The ony purpose that you need the riser for is to be a passage for air/fuel mixture to get into the intake manifold through the two internal tubes. Bob Engle
  24. There are a lot of linkage pieces on the 32 Buicks. gas pedal to pivot link which has a rod to the wizzard contol valve and one to the back side of the carb. Heat contol linkage from dash to engine side of carb, and from engine side of carb to engine side of exhaust divert valve. For the steering wheel throttle control, there is a rod from the die cast pivot at the bottom of the steering column, ( be careful with this pivot part most are broken from over tightening onto the column.) to the driver side of the carb. I hope the photos help. Some of the parts are ilustrated in the parts manual and there are part numbers for the various pieces. The numbers don't do you much good. Let me know which pieces youare missing, I may be able to give you dimensions on them.
  25. There are a lot of linkage pieces on the 32 Buicks. gas pedal to pivot link which has a rod to the wizzard contol valve and one to the back side of the carb. Heat contol linkage from dash to engine side of carb, and from engine side of carb to engine side of exhaust divert valve. For the steering wheel throttle control, there is a rod from the die cast pivot at the bottom of the steering column, ( be careful with this pivot part most are broken from over tightening onto the column.) to the driver side of the carb. I hope the photos help. Some of the parts are ilustrated in the parts manual and there are part numbers for the various pieces. The numbers don't do you much good. Let me know which pieces youare missing, I may be able to give you dimensions on them.