Bob Engle

I can't be specific as I am only familiar with 32's. I think you will need to remove the driverside toe board. There is probably a bracket attached to the wood frame under the dash that will need to be disconnected. Disconnect the steering gear arm and the assembly should be free to come out of the car. The 32's have a steering column lock so you must remove the key lock assembly. The bottom end of the tube is a slip fit into the large nut with a clamp bolt that need to be loosened. The column should then be ready to slide off the steering shaft. I wish I could be more specific on a 1930 car. Bob Engle

Sorry I can't help. 32 Buicks had the steering wheel held onto a hub by filister head screws. Removing these screws allowed the steering wheel to be removed and then a puller could be attached to the threaded holes in the hub and pushed against center nut to pull the hub. An old trick used to remove steering wheels without the use of a puller was to put block of wood on the floor so your feet and thighs can press up against the steering wheel and then with pressure on the wheel, use a piece of wood against the nut and hit it with a hammer. The spline is tapered and once it breaks loose, it comes off easily. It worked most of the time in the 50's for steering wheel removal. Bob Engle

I painted my manifold and then put it in my grill and heated it to 500 degrees and left it sit for about 1/2 hour. I prefer VHT manifold paints. They don't discolor as much as other paints. Bob Engle

I'm not sure about a 1930, but on a 1932 you want to remove the tubes, leave the nut on the threads, but not tight against the wheel. put a metal piece over the nut and let the center of the puller push against this metal piece. It is very easy to damage the threads on the steering shaft. Bob Engle

There were wood wheels on certain models through 1932. The 1931 Buicks had vents on the side, not on the top of the cowl. I'm not sure what is sitting on top of the cowl in your photo, but it does not look like vents. 1932 had a single cowl vent on the top.

Axle failure on these early 30's Buicks is a common problem. They are a floating axle and the surface finish is rough leading to stress fractures. The 1932-66 series axles were used on 1929-1126, 1930-40, and 1931 and 1932 60 series. Bob Engle

Thanks for your feedback. It's difficult getting correct information. There is a lot of misinformation and opinions floating around. I looked for any sign of the transmission cast body having been originally painted, but I couldn't find anything. I also did not find any signs of paint on the bottom pan or dipstick tube. I thought seriously about rebuilding the trans myself. 5 years ago I would have, because I always felt if it didn't work right, I would tear it apart again and find out what I did wrong. Now I have too many projects and do't want to have to pull it apart again. I took the transmission to FATSCO in New Jersey. The top restoration shop in the area send theirs transmissions to them. They also are known for quality replacement parts. Their expensive, but this is no place to go for the cheapest. Their specialist on dynaflows is 80 years old and literally rebuilt hundreds of them. They have all the tools and fixtures that are needed for correct repairs. I would have spent a week making the needed tooling. I had a discussion with them about the correct ATF fluid to use in the rebuild. They said all the parts they installed will work properly with any of the Dexmerc fluids, including the synthetics. I plan to stay with the straight Dexmerc grade and not of any of the newer grades. My decision is based on the fact that dynaflows work on the principle of slip and fluid pressure in the turbines. Newer fluids have a lower viscosity to reduce friction and improve mileage, but they all work on clutches to shift gears which the dynaflows don't use except for low and reverse. I think the newer fluids would mean slower acceleration due to greater slip. Like your car, the shift linkage was silver cad plated, however, the kickdown linkage was gold cad plated. With my blasting cabinet, changing media is a nuisance, especially when I am only doing one or two parts at a time. Bob Engle

I thought I would give an update on my project. Transmission is rebuilt. I did not bead blast the cast housing as I did not want to take the chance on glass beads getting into the internals. I have bead blasted the differential and torque tube. They were heavily rusted and pitted in some areas. I did not aggressively blast and so some areas still show pinpoints of rust. It was my first experience with glass bead blasting and found it to be a very slow process in my hobby level blaster. The process sure consumes a lot of glass bead material. If I had a lot of bead blasting to do, I would seriously consider purchasing the ceramic bead material rather than glass bead. I tested several methods of protecting bare metal. I used the Marvel Mystery; Rattle can satin clearcoat; CRC SF350: and Gibbs. The last two are rattle can product. I have decided to use the Gibbs product as they claim it can be painted over and did as well as any other methods tested. As I stated earlier, I know I can't return many of the components to their original appearance and condition, but I do want it to be correct. I will see how this process holds up over time. I have found enough black paint on the frame under the heavy undercoated areas to confirm that the frame was factory painted black. I have also determined that the brake backing plates and front suspension items were factory cadmium plated. It is interesting that a previous posting on the finish of late 50's Buicks has a short video of a 1959 Buick assembly line. The comment was that the suspension was bare metal and then black wash painted after assembly. Knowing that I found some evidence of cadmium plating, and think the video confirms this. I'm currently working on the underside of the body panels and the frame. I am removing old undercoating, and rust. This is slow work. I plan to use rust proofing paint and then rattlecan spray undercoating on the body panels and just paint the frame. I keep you posted on my progress. Bob Engle

buicka: I can probably help you with the ujoint assembly as the 1933-50 series is the same as the 1932-50 series. I have several transmissions that I can get parts off of. Send me a pm and we can talk about what level of condition you are looking for. Bob Engle

Google the carb numbers and you will see what models and years the carbs fit. I think you will find the 533 fits a larger series engine and therefore, the venturi bore will most likely be different. Bob Engle

You are correct. The small unthreaded hole holds a pressed in pin that retains the key cylinder. removing this pin will allow the key cylinder to be pulled out of its bore and this will then allow the cylinder with the lever to be slid out of its bore. Bob Engle

wiper body right side group# 9.716 PN 1254652 wiper body left side group# 9.716 PN 1254653 same numbers for 1932 These are for 96C models tool kit group # 8.816 PN 171366 This kit is used on many models from 1924 through 1931 it states serviced by VLcheck Tool Co. Cleveland, Ohio There are other tools listed in the master parts manual, but they are not listed as year specific. Bob Engle

I would contact Paul Rickman at the 1933 Buick registry to try and find a source. If the springs are formed flat wire type, you may need to buy some spring wire of the correct diameter and make some forming dies to reproduce them. I don't have any idea what they may look like. I formed on for my 32 Buick which is a flat wire type spring. Bob Engle

1928 series and 1929 series 116 use the same front spring shackle bolt as 1930 series 40. Group # 7.428 PN 226692 Bob Engle

Same as some 28 29 models. Looks like a good lathe project. Bob Engle

1932 models have only one spring per door. The spring is in the center of the door. All 1932 models used the same doors and springs, 5 per side. 1933 hood doors use two springs per door, one top and one bottom. There are two different part numbers for the hood door springs; 1273250 spring, hood ventilator door (upper left and lower right) 1273251 spring,hood ventilator door (lower left and upper right) Quantity is listed as AR (as required) Some 1933 models had 6 doors per side. Bob Engle

I forgot to mention that Stanley Spring is listed as a truck spring manufacturing operation. That is because they make flat springs and can make replacements from broken springs. They were great to work with. Bob Engle

A number of years ago, I had springs made at Stanley Spring works in Harrisburg PA. Bob Engle

Which model is critical to value. model 65, only 79 built. model 66, 636 built. 66C 450 built. 66S 1678 built. 67 9,031 built. 68 1514 built. 68C 365 built. After rarity comes condition. The drive trains are common to all the 60 series models. Bob Engle

Attached is a copy from a Mac Blair newsletter. There are also references in the BUICK FACTS for 1932 sales booklet Bob Engle 1932 Buick accessories offered by Buick.docx

90 w will be fine. The 600 weight came from early cars with nonsynchromesh spur gearing. Just be sure to NOT get the new GL5 fluids. They contain compounds that are not compatible with brass and copper. CRC makes a 90 w GL4 differential lube. It drives me crazy that as the government and auto industry keepsforcing changes to these automotive fluids that they do a poor job of covering the compatibility with antique cars. Bob Engle

The 1960 Buick Chassis service manual has detailed instructions on removing the heater core. Get the thermostatic heat control valve reconditioned while you have things apart. In fact, you may find that valve is your leakage problem. Bob Engle

Contact Mac Blair. He may have the shackles and does have info in spring suppliers. Bob Engle

I'm struggling with this issue right now. I have the transmition and rear end out of my 60 Buick right now. My first concern was determining what was correct original. Most everything is heavy rust with a smattering of undercoat from the dealer spray job on the undercarriage. I got excellent help from members with original unrestored cars. I've been glass beading the metal but not filing the surfaces to a smooth original finish. Then I've treated the surfaces with a phosphate wash. Some small parts, I've then coated with oil while I decide what to do with the large parts. I drive my cars. I like them to be correct to original, but I have less concern for maintaining an original finish. It is impossible to drive cars and maintain that showroom appearance. I accept that I will lose points in a BCA or AACA judged show. I have searched for documentation on the clear coat over bare metal durability, but have found none to date. I hope some authorities can shed some light on this issue. I'll tell you in about two years how my car is holding up. Bob Engle

Talk with CAR Nailhead Buick. this guy knows nailheads and can get you the best parts. He is one of the few people that know how to get performance from these engines. Bob Engle