Bob Engle

I have a restored 1929 Model A Ford. I purchased an unrestored 1917 Buick D45 this past year. I was shocked to find out how much better the Buick drove and handled than the model A which is 12 years newer. The Model A will run 45 mph, but steers like a truck and every bump in the road shakes the whole car. The 17 Buick will only run 35, but the ride is so smooth and handles well. Even the 2 wheel brakes give a confident stop. The 6 cylinder engine is so much better on torque while the model A vibrates and shakes. Yes I could spent several thousand $$ balancing the ford motor, but the Buick just cruises along . Both are a nuisance to shift, but once the Buick is in high gear, you virtually don't need to down shift except for very step hills. If you are concerned about driveability, go for the 6 cylinder Buicks. Bob Engle

To 37 Buick: I bought the 1932 Buick 50 series rear end assembly and was told by the seller that LLoyd Young did the conversion work. I am still looking for information on operating instructions, lubrication and maintenance info as well as linkage hookup. Bob Engle

Here's photos of the 1932 50 series differential with the OD installed.

I don't believe it is a Buick option. It is a LLOYD YOUNG conversion unit. I recently picked up a 1932 50 series differential with the same unit installed in the torque tube. I am interested in any literature for lubrication, mantenance, set up and mechanical and solenoid setup. I have the cables for mechanical operations and an electrical setup minus the solenoid valve. Bob Engle

If you can, run a file across part of the pin. If it slides across the surface without cutting, You will need to use grind stones or find a machine shop with EDM. You can also test with a carbide scribe, if it won't mark the surface carbide cutters won't do the job. Bob Engle

Are they hardened dowels ?? If so they will be fun to remove if they are blind. EDM!! Bob Engle

While working on my 1917 D45, There are many grease applications that are identified by 1917 material standards. So we are left with interpreting these to modern lubes. In my search I found the attched chart that I found helpfull in making my selections. Bob Engle Sorry My chart won't paste into this file. I'll need to change it's format and try again

I pulled the transmission to reline the clutch. I decided to inspect the U joint while the transmission is out. I found no extreme wear, However i came up with a question. The one ujont has wire ring retainers for the caps while the other pair has nothing. I can see where they have rubbed against the outer cover. I there no retainer for this floating pair? Bob Engle

Buy a teens Buick and you won't have to worry about front brake adjustment. Use of the pedal brakes and emergency brake at the same time is sometimes needed. Bob Engle

My first question on mechanical brakes is "Do you have the correct woven lining on the brake shoes??" I have seen too many relined shoes with bonded lining . The compressed bonded linings require too much pedal pressure to work properly on the mechanical brake systems. Model A Fords are set up so the front wheels don't lock up. The concern was loss of steering with locked front wheels. If your car can skid the rear tires on a panic stop, you probably have as much braking as you can expect. Bob Engle

The one on the left is a Vizsla. This was a memorial picture as he passed on in December. He was my gift to myself when I retired. Great bird dog! I miss him. The paint is a basecoat /clearcoat matching as close as I could get to the original Chalet Blue. Clearcoat sure messes with the hue as it changes depending on the angle you look at. Light perpendicular and viewing perpendicular, it's a good match. Chalet blue had a very fine metallic which is also hard to duplicate. Bob

For the drivetrain, suspension and dash, any 32 60 series car parts will fit the coupe. Only body parts and and interior will be unique to the coupe. /there were 13,753 60 series cars built in 32. Over 9,000 were sedans which will be your best source for parts. Bob Engle

One other thing to remember, Some states frown on replacing serial number tags. I know in Connecticut the DMV will personally inspect the tags and if they don't look like original mounting they will not register the vehicle. Knowing how California loves lots of regulations, I would be careful with how the tags are mounted. Bob Engle

I mentioned in an earlier post that A. J. Backeast advertises in the AACA magazine. He definitely can make correct tags for your 33. Workmansship is excellent and lettering is correct to original. Bob Engle

A. J. Backeast advertises in AACA magazine. I got the frame tag for my 32 Buick from him. It looks to be the same script Buick as mine. You could contact him and he can stamp the number in the proper lettering that you need on the frame and engine tags. Know your needed dimensions and see if he can help. Bob Engle

Ready for the Christmas party!! Bob Engle

Love the 60 Grill!! Bob Engle

Caster spec is 1 1/2 to 2 degrees. method for checking is to remove the king pin lock bolt and insert a long pin of the same diameter into this hole. place a precision level on this pin to get a reading. This assumes that the car is on a level floor and tires have the correct air pressure. Adjustment is by shimming under the spring at the axle. Be sure that your shocks are filled with oil. The shocks can instigate a death wobble if fluid is low. This info is from page 65 of the 1932 specs and adjustments manual. Bob Engle

Thanks Terry. Looks like my valves were replaced with shorter stem ones. I have no plans to do anything with the valves as compression is good and consistent across all cylinders. I believe my push rods are not original also, but I will keep them for now. All 12 are the same. Bob Engle

Thanks Terry and Mark. I'll pass on your offers as my push rods are different than your shown. I am having some made to duplicate the ones in my engine. I am curious however to know if the 1917 D45 engine had different valve stem heighths. My Intake stems are about 5/16" shorter than the exhaust stems. I suspect that the valves were changed to aome modern altenative. The shorter stems cause the adjustment to be further out neer the end of the pushrods. Bob Engle

Terry, I'll weld up the rocker arm as it's a simple fix. I am not knowledgeable enough about these cars to see what's correct and what's been cobbled from other parts. I have not gotten a teens parts manual yet. My 1930 manual does list some parts back to 1918, but very few. If your push rods are round on one end and have 1/4X28 tpi on the other end and are 11 1/4" long I would be interested in one. I was planning to get one made, but I would want to make a correct correc one. I do have a photo of a 1916 engine and the push rods appear to look like mine. Bob

The rocker can be welded up on the face and ground down. The Push rod broke off about 1/4" of threads. The intake valves on this engine are about 5/16" shorter than the exhaust valves. With the short valve and the worn rocker, the adjustment was out on the end. The push rods have a centerdrill hole on the threaded end and the rod broke at the bottom of this drilled hole. I made a case hardened cap that I put on the valve stem to allow the damaged pushrod to be used. I was hoping to find a spare pushrod from someone. If I can't find one, I'll have a local machine shop make one for me. My lathe is not suitble for thread cutting. Modern alloy steels should work great and I can case harden the ball end. I don't see a need to harden the threaded end. Bob Engle

It's crazy how the buerocrats get carried away. The only hazard from asbestos is breathing in fibers that can lodge in the lung cells. These fibers are an issue primarily from insulation. asbestos In linoleum and gaskets should not be a problem unless you are grinding and blowing the dust around the room. 80% of people that suffer from lung cancer are also lifelong smokers also. Exposure over a long period of time is a problem. Besides clutch and brake linings, Small quantities were used in elecrical components as insulators such as the starter contact switch fiber washers. Bob Engle

Tinker needs a pushrod and rocker arm to get the car running to deliver Christmas presents. Pushrod is 11 1/4" long, 5/16" diameter with 1/4X28 tpi. Casting # for the rocker arm is 35187, photos below, any help would be appreciated. Merry Christmas to all Bob Engle

Thanks for your responses. The rebuilder is very specific in the procedure for putting the system in operation. They say the warranty will be voided if the procedure is not followed. I ended up using s right angle variable speed drill and ran it on the pulley nut. I increased the rpm until the pressure line began flowing fluid. I was at 50 rpm above the cranking speed. While the rebuilder kept saying to remove and jiggle the pressure valve, I believe the problem is to get a prime in the pump which needs a certain speed to force the air out rather than circulate in the pump. Playing with the pressure valve is a mess as fluid drains out all over the front of the engine while doing this procedure. It did not require much power to spin the pump. It was a 3/8" 18 volt drill that did the job. With the power steering operational, I can now get the car to the front end alignment shop and be done with this long project. I look forward to being on the road this spring. Bob Engle